im starting to do performance modds i already ordered my injen intake now im looking for a j pipe and i want to remove my third cat im looking at the atlp p j pipe and the rv6 performance j pipe is there a difference between them? or any other suggestions?

 

this is a no brainer..
the RV6 V3 Jpipe replaces the factory jpipe and the 3rd cat.

Get the RV6.
its also the latest and greatest. I believe he came out with these at the end of march 2010.

 

thats what i was thinking just wanted to make sure thanks for the help

 

i cant remember which jpipe it was but one of the three (ATLP, RV6, XLR8) hangs really low compared to others, which becomes problematic if you plan on slamming your car like most people. If i remember which one it was ill post again but you might want to look that up before dropping the cash on one. If your not going to lower your car then your all set on.

 

The RV6 V3 is at or very near factory clearance.
Again, the V3 is the latest and greatest. any problems with previous designs were fixed.

 

One being the best, and third being the least (well less gains than the other two listed)

1. RV6 V3 J-pipe
2. XLR8 J-pipe
3. ATLP V2 J-pipe

All drop friendly (well at least to 2").

 

i already dropped my car 1.5 all around do not plan on going any lower than that i know i scrap as it is in some places but my factory j pipe is untouched

 

I have the XLR8 J-Pipe on a 2'' drop. Only scrapped the pipe one time on the most rediculously massive speed bump I have ever seen. It really does not hang that low.

 

^Means, your not lowered enough.

ATLP if you don't want to deal with putting your OEM Cat and J-Pipe back on when emission time rolls around

RV6 if you don't care about above reasons

XLR8 if you just want XLR8

 

I have the XLR8 with only a 1.4" drop, and I've hit it a few times, so now I have to be very careful over any dip in the road or bump.

Go with RV6.

 

LOL! I got rid of my XLR8 for that reason and put in the RV6 V3 and absolutely love it!!

 

If you look at the dyno charts and claimed HP / torque from the XLR8 and RV6 jpipes they are basically the same. If you plan on doing PCDs also and don't mind the downsides to running a catless setup, the RV6 makes sense. I've done a ton of research on it and as soon as my warranty is up I'll be picking up RV6 PCDs and the XLR8 jpipe because I don't want the hassle of running a catless setup in a daily driver. Especially in a non-boosted application where you're really not going to notice the difference between having one cat in the setup or zero.

 

I'd have to disagree. Its not only about the third cat being deleted with the RV6 V3 J-pipe, it is how the V3 was made to fully take advantage of exhaust scavenging. The V3 J-pipe will beat the XLR8 J-pipe and any 3rd cat delete on a dyno or at the track. Also what is the point to run catless with the PCD, but not the third cat? Makes no sense.

 

When you remove cats from an exhaust system you're going to free up more power regardless, even if there's one OEM high flow Type-S cat left in the exhaust stream. Not everyone wants their car to sound like a ricer. Especially in an NA application, you're not going to notice a huge difference by having one inline cat. Sacrificing maybe +/- 1-2hp is worth it if you need your car to be civil around clients like I do.

By your logic, there's no point in just replacing the Jpipe at all if you're not going to do the PCDs as well. However, people do make power with both Jpipes without the PCDs even though RV6's Jpipe deletes the third cat.

Have you tested a RV6 Jpipe vs. an XLR8 Jpipe at the track on identical cars, drivers and setups? Dyno charts have too many variables that would allow you to definitively say that one is better than the other. Look at each manufacturers claimed dyno sheets and you'll see that they're both basically the same.

 

That's a bold statement to make with doing any dyno testing. We've consistently shown the significant gains our j-pipe makes, especially in the low end.

And one factor many people are forgetting is that none of the other manufacturers use US-grade T304 Stainless Steel. One j-pipe is made out of 439 stainless steel and the other is overseas stainless steel. Both of these steels are less durable and more prone to oxidation than the steel we use.

Also, as has been commented, our j-pipe hangs 0.25" or so lower than the sub-frame. Clearance is not an issue unless you are slammed (more than a 2" drop).

 

No, it means i'm not 16 anymore with a civic and having to watch every road like im babysititng my wheels.

 

 

But they were dyno's tested. And I know about the steel, but how long has Richie been a vendor? Has there been a problem with the quality of it to this day?

Not bashing your products, but Richie's J-pipe is far superior than any competitor at this moment, just like how his J-pipe was the most inferior before.

 

While I will agree his Jpipe seems to be the best in terms of design and performance, I wouldn't say it "FAR" exceeds the competition by any means. Richie makes a great product. XLR8 makes a great product. And ATLP makes a great product. They all perform very well and very close to each other actually, (from the information we have been given by each company). The only thing that is missing is a FULL comparison on the same dyno on the same day. After that, you can do track times as well which would give an even better idea of how these pipes perform.

At the same time, I'm sure there are cases where Jpipe 'z' would do better with 'x' exhaust vs. 'y' exhaust. So it's really very hard to do a complete and thorough comparison, though I think it was done as well as it could.

I actually have the RV6 V1. I would LOVE to put another Jpipe in its place right now. I'd probably notice a pretty substantial gain If I had to guess. If anything, I want to go with a custom pipe (following Richie's design) with a 3in collector to compliment my 3in catback. That would be ideal

 

to what i understand is that the third cat does not have an 02 sensor there making it kool for emissions since here in illinois they test with obd

 

i really like how the rv6 replaces the cat at the same time

 

^^^Yes RV6 V3 replaces the 3rd cat and their is no O2 bung....perfect fit...very fast install..."if" you have a lift and an air gun....

 

I was speaking in terms of visual inspection.
But I do understand your statement.
RV6 V3 is your best option.

 

Sorry didn't mean to put "by far", but it seems like every competitor like bashing Richie's products about his quality.

 

far superior is crazy and biased. All are the same and give same gains. XLR8 is made in the US and even though I like richie and ATLP, I have to have the best. I know they will be there to fix problems, but if my eyes I like to take the least chance to ever had a problem.

I am not bashing you, or anyone, but just because you read it online doesn't mean its better than x because we have a 3.2 small 6 so exhaust scavenging is true but has little to no effect or power gain to the car. I have seen cars with mods that should produce 20+ Hp more and still get beat by the same car stock because that person didn't know how to drive. Also, look at those kids that have a TB spacer and intake saying "wow I feel the difference". That difference is lag and its proven that those mods actually decrease HP (pushing more air and no added fuel is just not going to give power). Its just funny to me because the internet is garbage and a gain in power at the same time, look at the exhaust richie posted that had "average gains/peak hp" and kids thought his catback made our cars gain 50 hp and almost as much as a s/c....

Same with exhausts (cat backs), there isn't one "better" than another at the moment. Its all about sound so get the one that you think sounds the best as all give the same "power".

If I had a choice I would go to the first used one I found for a good price. If I have to buy new I would go with XLR8, then my second choice would be ATLP or RV6 (RV6 over ATLP if I wanted to get the PCDs to possibly get a better deal on everything together). Richies old design gained less HP but his new design deletes the third cat so really all three are equal in HP. Yes richies deletes the third cat, but even though it does that it gains an extra, what, 1WHP? You need atleast 15 WHP to feel something.

No one is bashing his products, but at the same time his isn't "better" or "worse". There is so much biased opinions on this site and not too many facts. What about richies V1 PCDs? He fixed the problem and honored his products but its a fact that over seas stainless steel is not the same as US- T304...Look at the EBAY exhaust (Tsuedo) that has 400 threads bashing it and how the welds will break and how they state "stainless steel". I graduated with a marketing major and its funny how people sell things and leave stuff out, but its legal.

I don't mean to come after anyone personally, I am stating how I feel.

 

Xcelerate-

I just got the V-3 j pipe installed from you today. I am supercharged with NO exhaust mods, except deleting the 3rd cat. Exhaust sounds nicer, but i do not notice a dramatic power gain. Is this bec the ECU needs time to adjust to the new parts? Or the fact that I am already supercharged that the gains felt will be mininmal, tho 20 whp is NOT somthin to scoff at....

 

Are you running the comptech ACM or AEM FIC? You are basically bottle necking having the stock PCD, larger J pipe to stock cat back. If I were you since the S/C is on there as well as I am, get PCDs and a catback. With the extra heat of the S/C, the stock cats may or will fail as seen in the past. I would get a custom 2.5" catback to start though. J pipe does add power, but it doesn't make it a ten second car, maybe 2-3/10s of a second faster tops.

 

whatever the comptech sc came with i believe it is the ACM is what Im running. I need an intake too, i can see the stock intake with the sc is very restrictive. I am reluctant to run a custom catback for fear of a nasty sound. could i get away with a custom catback with resonator to stock mufflers or is that a dumb idea. I just dont want a drone when i take the car on the freeway...
thanx

 

Run the comptech or run a custom exhaust and get a big resonator and it will make your car sound stock.

 

any specific custom mufflers to use?

 

Sometimes I think the same way. It's really not worth the 1-2hp to go totally catless. In a boosted application it's totally worth it when you get quicker spool and sometimes greater than 50hp. In my case I lost nearly 100hp by having a cat on the car and it wouldn't spool till mid way through second gear. In the TL it's just not worth it.

 

I know exactly what you mean. I had a "stage 4" WRX and my old STi that was obviously pretty heavily modified. On the WRX I used a high flow cat because it was a daily driver and it still made okay power for the turbo I was using...which was relatively small. The STi definitely went catless...I even had an open dump tube on the wastegate hahaha. That thing sounded like a freight train at full boost. With a turbo that big I would definitely not restrict the exhaust with a cat....aside from the fact that I occasionally ran leaded fuel in it.

I just don't see one high flow cat making a huge difference in power on an already strung out Honda engine...

 

Sooooo which J-Pipe hangs up the hightest? Im tucking 17s all around, im dumped, so i need something that wont scrape, im fucking my stock one up lol

 

i think there was too much truth in this post - ack laid it down nice and hard