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Wow these are great ideas. Never even thought about the Windows! And the vertical chassis braces either. I'm gonna do the carpeting and rear speaker removal soon too.
Do not go with Lexan unless it is a track only car trying to be competitive in a certain racing class.
Lexan needs bracing for windshields, even then it will flex/shake as you drive. You would also lose rear window defrost.
Noone makes preformed Lexan windows for the car that I am aware of, so can't really have functioning Lexan windows with power.
I have removed roughly 800 lbs from my car and still drive on street, but not daily. My car still has full functioning glass besides moonroof, a/c, heater, 2 seats, bumper beams, plus additional chassis bracing and weld-in roll bar.
You definitely have much more that can be done.
Not sure what seal and panels you removed from engine bay. The radiator cover and front hood seal help seal top of radiator to force air to flow through radiator rather than above it. It helps with radiator and A/C efficiency at speed.
Would also recommend keeping the rear seal and windshield cowl installed. In front of the windshield is a high pressure zone and sucks air into engine bay at speed rather than venting.
You want hood vents in front half of the hood where pressure is lowest and flow is laminar.
Last edited by brian6speed; 04-06-2016 at 06:31 PM.
I made a mistake about that upper hood thing, I didn't remove that, I removed the rubber strips up near that thing you're talking about. But yeah the radiator plastic cover I left on and the same with the upper hood vent
But I'm digging out the interior on my next day off. For sure. Do you or does anyone know how much roughly the front seats are a piece? I'd imagine somewhat heavy due to having the heating tech in each one. Was going to find some lightweight non heated seats to put in its place.
Last edited by Steven Bell; 04-26-2016 at 07:15 PM.
Reason: Merged Posts
Intake mani 25lbs? I don't think the mani itself weighs that much?
Also suggest you pick up a flat tire repair kit and tire pump.
The J32A3 Intake, runners plus packaging weighed about 27lbs for my recent port and polish job. That's an intake manifold stripped of everything, maybe OP including all the stock filters and resonators.
The seats are probably about 65 lbs each. Never weighed mine but they are very similar to my TSX seats, which weigh 62 lbs. I just ordered some Recaro seats for my TSX and they are about 40 lbs. But that is some serious money. The heating elements in the seats weigh nothing, so don't worry about them. If you want lightweight seats, then get some manual 7th gen Accord seats. They should be about 45 lbs and will have side airbags, so your SRS should function properly.
The seats are probably about 65 lbs each. Never weighed mine but they are very similar to my TSX seats, which weigh 62 lbs. I just ordered some Recaro seats for my TSX and they are about 40 lbs. But that is some serious money. The heating elements in the seats weigh nothing, so don't worry about them. If you want lightweight seats, then get some manual 7th gen Accord seats. They should be about 45 lbs and will have side airbags, so your SRS should function properly.
You going with folding or bucket type(weight you mentioned sounds like folding)? Still going to use oem belts?
My Recaro bucket alone weighs 10 lbs. Mounted with brackets, sliders, and side rails it is around 20. My passenger Recaro XL seat with just bracket and side mounts is around 30 lbs.
Should just drop my build and buy an Ariel Atom. That would be bad ass.
Last edited by brian6speed; 04-23-2016 at 11:36 AM.
You going with folding or bucket type(weight you mentioned sounds like folding)? Still going to use oem belts?
My Recaro bucket alone weighs 10 lbs. Mounted with brackets, sliders, and side rails it is around 20. My passenger Recaro XL seat with just bracket and side mounts is around 30 lbs.
Should just drop my build and buy an Ariel Atom. That would be bad ass.
The Recaro Sport seats. Same seats that the CL7 Accord Euro-R has but I ordered them with leather to match the rest of the interior.
It's not a daily, it's being set up for light auto cross/mostly strip
I thought in previous posts you said that the reason you didn't get a manual was because it was a daily, and that using a clutch in traffic was too rough.
I understand the desire for the car to be quicker, but I think part of what make the TL so good, is that it was a sporty luxury sedan. You've removed any luxury from it. Are you on the TL FB page? If not, someone on there is destroying their TL in the same manner - to the extent that the center console is gone. I think it was even said that none of the parts were salvaged to sell because they were all destroyed in a rage trying to remove everything. They make a factory service manual so you don't have to go full retard on the car to take things apart.
If you're setting it up for auto cross/strip duty, are you relocating the battery to the trunk? Didn't you post somewhere you had a lightweight battery? It would help a lot to move it to the trunk.
I'll second what screaminz28 said... you've removed everything that makes a TL a nice car. Your TL should be your daily driver and you should get a 2 door 7th gen Accord with V6 and manual trans. Then gut that car.
Surprised you haven't removed the bumper beams yet. You could probably drop 30 lbs or more. No worries if you get in an accident because you've already trashed your TL.
Last edited by Euro-R_Spec_TSX; 04-26-2016 at 05:01 PM.
I don't know why the hell I said before it was a daily lmfao. I drive it once a week and that's only because I want to put miles on it. The battery relocation that's a good idea how easy is that to do?? And yeah bumper beams are next. Front is like 16lbs and rear is like 15lbs
04-06-2016 | 01:57 PM
