04DCTL

So, my exhaust set up is just 2.5 inch pipe straight from the headers back, no car or resonator or anything, would getting a J-pipe improve power and sound?
Would pre-cat deletes be pointless? since i am already running this set up?
I would like to get some dif. tone out of my car along with more power. I would also like to get the pulley but i am just wondering if i would be able to install this myself or what.
Please, any help would be awesome!
thanks in advance


stillhere, please chime in! haha

04DCTL

also, I am single exit out the rear end, I dont know if that makes any difference but just in case
I have been reading some of the threads about it, and it sounds like everyone pretty much has the Evo2 exhaust that has these on there that i have seen so far

chill_dog

Why would you need a j-pipe if your exhaust set up is from the pre-cats/headers back? That already covers the j-pipe. If you exhaust is actually from the j-pipe back (ie. 3rd cat back was what was replaced), get a j-pipe. I wouldn't do pre-cat deletes with the set up you have since you're NA.

04DCTL

thanks man, that is what i was trying to ask, i will go look and see exactly where it starts, but i am pretty sure, it is from the headers but i will double check right fast, also what about the progress RSB? does that stiffen the suspension up some?

aznbo187

iTrader: (1)

Are you running a straight 2.5" right after the J-Pipe?

A J-Pipe will still help a good amount in power since your still limited to the factories J-Pipe's flow. Your performance is still going to be limited by the factory J-Pipes 2" primaries, where as upgrading it to the ATLP or RV6 will help open it up to a 2.25" diameter.

For the Pre-Cat's, they will still help power, but it will probably be raspier because you have no cat's or resonators. What you can do it take out the pre-cats for the power, and add a high-flow 3rd cat that's still 2.5" in diameter to keep the rasp down.

The ATLP Hi Flow 3rd cat is a 200-Cell count metallic substrate converter. =)

Hope this helps.

jmkiang

iTrader: (5)

^ +1 for the high flow cat.

You'll def benefit from the precat deletes. Great mod IMO.

Bearcat94

Careful with the pre-cat deletes. NC annual inspection may be a problem.

I am not confident that a single 3rd cat would be enough to pass emissions.

However, leaving the stock primary cats and deleting the 3rd cat, you might get by (almost certainly emissions-wise; visual, )

If you want to change the tone, look at adding a free flowing resonator or changing your canister(s).


Edit: Do the pulley.

aznbo187

iTrader: (1)

I don't think he has a 3rd cat at all the moment?

And no I don't think he will pass smog by deleting the two primaries and keeping a 3rd high-flow, although visa versa, keeping the two primaries, and deleting the 3rd cat I believe "I hate cars" mentioned he passed smog with flying colors.

04DCTL

so the stock j-pipe is 2 inches where as the RV6 would be 2.25?

and yeah i looked and snapped a few pics, sorry for shitty quality just trying to help yall out on helping me out haha. and i am def a noob, i still have the stock J-pipe on there haha. sorry guys!

a look from the side..

front to back...
you know you love how bad ive hit something to eff my s h i t up, so therefore, that should be good enough reason to order a new one right? haha


and def sorry for the brightness on this one, might need some sunglasses to check it!

aznbo187

iTrader: (1)

Ouch they did a crappy job. He just cut off the J-Pipe flange.

You currently have the factory J-Pipe, pre-cats, and deleted 3rd cat.

Do you have a muffler at the end?

If you plan to get an aftermarket J-Pipe, you notice how right after the J-Pipe (brown color pipe), it's welded right onto the straight-pipe (silver pipe). There is supposed to be a flange with bolts (unless I can't see it). Looks like your muffler guy just cut it off, and welded it right onto the J-pipe. When you get an aftermarket J-Pipe, you will need to either do the same, cut the j-pipe flange off (not recommended), or have them get a matching flange, and weld it onto the straight pipe section so you can bolt up the factory j-pipe.

04DCTL

yeah man, tell me about it, i hate how he welded some stuff on my exhaust
and only thing i have is my HKS cannister at the end


So your implying, the aftermarket J-pipe would be my best bet? just the j-pipe or anything else to go along to yield more power?
I do believe i will be getting the pulley also
i just want to be able to squeeze a little more power out of this car you know? I love the way my car sounds right now, how do you think getting what you are saying would effect the sound? raspier? louder? softer?

and thanks so much for yalls help so fast already! I really really appreciate it!

jmkiang

iTrader: (5)

Ah! No J pipe flange!

jmkiang

iTrader: (5)

FYI, a lighter crank pulley won't free up any power... it'll just let you rev up faster

Anyway, follow Mikes advice... get a J pipe and flange the mating end of your catback.

The precat deletes are nice but you will have to worry about inspections.

The widened J pipe from ATLP or RV6 will/should deepen your exhaust note by a bit. Precat deletes with your current set up might make your exhaust note unbearable...

chill_dog

This will pass.

And I haven't had a sniff test done on my car in years, so as long as you have no CEL, you'd pass if you just had the third cat or no cats (unless they looked and saw none ).

aznbo187

iTrader: (1)

Tell me about it.

What are you looking for besides power? Do you want it quieter? Louder? Raspier? Keep it the same?

jmkiang

iTrader: (5)

Cold weather = raspier!

Precat deletes, J pipe, 3rd cat delete will ALL make your exhaust louder and free up hp, by different degrees.

Less drone = aftermarket resonator (Aero, Dynomax)

Quieter = STOCK

Alright gotta get back to work

04DCTL

I would like it to be just about the same, maybe just a tiny tiny tiny bit louder haha.
i love the tone, i just think the volume could be louder, or should i just stop hanging out with my buddy and his 03 cobra?

04DCTL

haha, thanks for your insight dude! have fun at work! make that money


and this will pass NC emissions? the precat delete that is?
if i were to JUST GET the pre-cat delete, would i be running a CEL?
if yes, would a J-pipe and pre-cat delete rid this CEL?

sorry for all the noob questions. just want to make sure everything is legit!

jmkiang

iTrader: (5)

Precat delete = not passing NC emissions (99% sure)
3rd cat delete with precats = pass with flying colors.

Precat delete ... after 200 miles, my CEL popped up. Al said that unplugging the battery will sometimes get rid of it. Will try this after work.

No

aznbo187

iTrader: (1)

If you want to stay legal, and not worry about CEL's, I'd suggest going with the J-Pipe. It will improve the exhaust tone a bit, and reduce some cabin drone.

stillhere153

iTrader: (1)

My setup
Single exit 2.5" catback hks carbon ti turbo w/ an aero resonator
Rv6 racepipe (you don't need)
Rv6 jpipe
Rv6 precat deletes

Loud inside nope never, raspy nope
Loud outside, deeper than loud really

Precats madethe big diff in deeper tone

04DCTL

so just getting the J-pipe sounds like the main consensus.
and Stillhere, why do you say no on the racepipe, just wondering?
I am going to look into this and get as much info as i can about it, before i make a purchase.

also, would the pulley be an easy deal or would a shop be my best bet to take it to?

Bearcat94

Dude, you are already NOT legit (me too, most everybody going for added performance). You've altered the stock exhaust, altered your DOT headlights, removed a catalytic converter, etc, etc.

You just don't want to get caught and have to either go back toward stock and/or pay a fine.

The CEL gets thrown, usually, related to O2 sensors failing or fouling. The Pre-cat deletes come with some sort of "fix" for the O2 sensors. There is no O2 Sensor at the J-Pipe or the 3rd cat, so no CEL issues from there.




Sorry, I gotta nit-pick this a little bit.

The pulley will not *create* HP, but it will free up *existing* HP. Takes a lot more engine energy to turn an 8-pound pulley than to turn a 1-pound pulley.

And if it revs faster, it *is* faster. If it *is* faster, thats the same as adding WHP. Think of it this way:

- In a certain gear (say 1st) at a certain RPM (say 6,200) the car is going a certain speed (say 45 MPH).

If you can reach 6,200 RPM faster, that means your reach 45 MPH faster. That means you're quicker.

Freeing up "wasted" or existing HP is the same effect as adding new HP.

jmkiang

iTrader: (5)

^ Eh fine

IMO, "adding" hp is boosting it or a nitrous kit.

Sonnick

You already have 2.5" piping where the race pipe would be installed (right after the Jpipe).

I'd say go with the Jpipe over the pre-cat deletes. Maybe Al can comment on this, but I say this because if you get the pre-cat deletes, the factory Jpipe will bottle-neck the exhaust flow before it reaches the 2.5" piping. If you get the Jpipe, it will flow freely after the pre-cat deletes.

If you were to get both, you would get the most increase in power, but you would lose torque because you would then have basically NO backpressure. Good luck

Could you get a clip of your exhaust?

jmkiang

iTrader: (5)

^ A high flow cat can help the low end tq issue...

Plus, the lighter crank pulley will partially negate this problem.

Well, theoretically.

04DCTL

okay so i suck at this and dont know how to multi quote but here goes..
bearcar-your right, i dont want to get caught haha, I mean I would def not want to run a CEL and your right, i have alreterd exhaust and headlights and so on haha. But to me, its legit because Im not running a CEL hahaha! but i see what your saying and i should of made it a little more clear. and the way you put the pulley, made 100% sense to me and pretty much sums it up as to the route im going there! ha.
and sonnick, i do have a clip of my exhaust, but it does no justice what so ever haha. I can try one day soon when i dont have to work to get some drive by clips and maybe a WOT run of some sort for you! and our cars already are a little sluggish off the start so would i see a drastic change in low end if i get both? or would it make a little difference that i shouldnt be worried about?
i guess you could say my goal is this
1.improve overall power the most effecient way.
2.improve sound (tiny bit louder with almost identical tone)
3.keep it legit (no CEL) haha

Richie v6

I a have replacement jpipe to 3rd flange if you need. At least they didn't hack up your exhaust for the flange.

04DCTL

ill take it! because i will be needing one when i order my J-pipe correct?

Richie v6

Yes unless you want to cut your jpipe.

Sonnick

Never!!

Sal's Type S

iTrader: (1)

You have to keep your primary CATs if you don't your check engine light will come on with a CAT efficiency code (420) also i will not pass a visual and the third CAT does not have a sensor monitoring it so this one will not cause a light to come on this will strictly fall under a visual failure. You also have to remember that some states also check your OBD monitors too to see if the computer has been reset recently vehicle has to be driven about 20 to 30 miles to be complete by then your CEL will show up again. I do emission testing in CA. so i see everything come into the shop i work at. You could holoow out cats but then the light comes on and also it shows up with the emisions being to high, so even if you install resistors in the secondary O2's to trick the computer it would still fail the sniffer.

04DCTL

thanks for all the help guys! i do believe in the very near future i will be ordering the J-pipe, and also can anyone please tell me if it is a job you can do to put the pulley on or is it better left at a shop? my buddy and I have done just about all the work to our cars (i.e. coilovers, intake!!!!!!, cam shaft/cam gear) just to give an idea of what we do. is it anything in the same difficulty range of those?

jmkiang

iTrader: (5)

Crank pulley is usually done at a shop since it requires a tool to remove the stock pulley.

To Sal, deleting the primary cats doesn't necessarily give a CEL.

Bearcat94

Look up the 3G Garage thread on the Pulley; check Kennedy's post on page 1 (?) and the last page for the tool list/method mmade22 and I used. It was pretty easy. The key is going to be how hard that bolt will be given the age/mileage of your car.

A-098: DIY: UR Crank Pulley info
https://acurazine.com/forums/showthread.php?t=153549

J-Pipe (except for your flange issue) is a pretty simple bolt-in.

stillhere153

iTrader: (1)

ok here is what you need to do... get yourself one of the jpipes

then locate a flange that will match the 3bolt flange on the jpipe, then weld that to your 2.5" straight section...

04DCTL

I appreciate that haha! thats what i will be doing very soon. along with the pulley more than likely

and yeah i will check that thread out! preciate it mane!

SlowRiderr

hayes just drive your car over a cliff because it wont be as hot as mine

-TTV6 =D

04DCTL

hahahahaha
will do buddy