Finally forged pistons, springs, retainers and race camshafts for our cars!!!
11-29-2009, 11:43 AM
#42
Under construction
iTrader: (3)
ALEX SU......if u got the hook up at honda to be an engineer....hook us up!!!... id be down to redesign and design some really nasty shit for them I really think their engineers are either too old to realize whats going on around them or simply dumb. they say they test their cars and all that crap it doesnt seem to me like they really do much to it to get this or any other honda really up to par with todays beatings that people give the cars they own.
i was just thinking with all your knowledge of engines and everything, why not open like a tuning/performance shop? start building your own turbos/exhaust systems/etc for either acura or any other manufacturer.
of course i know you need tons of money to get it off the ground but besides that is there anything stopping you?
11-29-2009, 12:18 PM
#43
Team Owner
hey ihc,opel, and ussi. u guys think that changing my car from open to semi-closed deck will help make my car more daily driver friendly. or do u think running a CR of 9:1 or so with 18psi more driver friendly than CR of 10:1 with 12-15 max psi? and also thanks again for all the amazing information everyone has put into this tread!! special thanks to ussi, Ihc, opel, and others.
18psi on a stock engine TL with 9:1 would be in the neighborhood of 600whp and doable on pump gas. I would shoot for no more than 500hp in a street car and FWD. The extra 100hp will never be able to be put down at any legal speed.
11-29-2009, 12:20 PM
#44
Safety Car
lol funny u say that, money isnt even the issue for some of us its the loyal customers and how many would bring people to get things done (high performance things).....its soemthing that in this day n age most people dont have money for, so you're stuck doing oil changes, brakes and alignments...etc. theres alot of BS to deal with and its alllllll about location location location. if i had a shop thats performance/oilchanges..... id have some nasty machine work being done in the back.
11-29-2009, 12:22 PM
#45
Safety Car
i hate....if i got the titanium valve spring retainers and the high perf. springs. there wouldnt be any difference in power right??? id just be able to handle a lil more abuse?
11-29-2009, 12:33 PM
#46
Under construction
iTrader: (3)
lol funny u say that, money isnt even the issue for some of us its the loyal customers and how many would bring people to get things done (high performance things).....its soemthing that in this day n age most people dont have money for, so you're stuck doing oil changes, brakes and alignments...etc. theres alot of BS to deal with and its alllllll about location location location. if i had a shop thats performance/oilchanges..... id have some nasty machine work being done in the back.
my uncle in syracuse NY has a shop and that's basically all he does. oilchanges, tire rotation, brakes, alignments all the little shit.
11-29-2009, 12:34 PM
#47
Team Owner
Keep in mind for those that plan on being heavily boosted, the boost acting on the backside of the intake valves effectively decreases spring tension. If the valves have about 1" of surface area on the back side, each pound of boost is taking away roughly 1psi of spring pressure.
It's going to be interesting if they could grind a turbo cam. Give it some extra exhaust duration to spool the turbo a little better. Crack the intake open a little sooner to get a fuller fresher charge and let the turbo blow any remaining exhaust out of the cylinder into the exhaust.
11-29-2009, 12:37 PM
#48
Team Owner
your right, everyone talks about doing all this crazy modding to their cars. but how many will actually show up to a shop and pay the big money to get something real done, very very few people. just like the turbo list, plenty of people want it but only like what 4 actually put money on the table.
my uncle in syracuse NY has a shop and that's basically all he does. oilchanges, tire rotation, brakes, alignments all the little shit.
my uncle in syracuse NY has a shop and that's basically all he does. oilchanges, tire rotation, brakes, alignments all the little shit.
11-29-2009, 12:43 PM
#49
Safety Car
at the shop i do work for now.....im called in on a "I NEED U ASAP" basis. wiring, motor work, electrical systems in old school hot rods (window regulators,locks etc) , music system (custom fab) etc...and i make good side income doing it but its just a pain in the ass workin in a shop thats not urs and isnt what you want it to be...
Im gonna order those parts before i take off the valve covers to retighten them and replace all the caca with those higher perf parts.
Im gonna order those parts before i take off the valve covers to retighten them and replace all the caca with those higher perf parts.
11-29-2009, 04:31 PM
#51
J36Twingt28r's,nextgt30r
Thread Starter
it seems like the site doesn't have the cam specs posted. i will call them tommorow and get the specs. based on the specs they give me will you(ihc, opel, ussi) be able to determine if it would yield the more hp than the tl-s cams? thanks
11-29-2009, 05:17 PM
#52
tl-s cams are weak anything should make more power..
I've been talking to bisi on cam specs and should have sommething out in 2-3months
My friends been running custom pistons for about a year now any piston company can make you a piston
I've been talking to bisi on cam specs and should have sommething out in 2-3months
My friends been running custom pistons for about a year now any piston company can make you a piston
11-29-2009, 06:31 PM
#53
The only thing I'm left wondering after that last page, is how much louder the cars will be with new cams.
11-29-2009, 07:24 PM
#54
Three Wheelin'
Great job IHC 
on clearing up a lot of the relations between CR and BOOST
Always admire the deep and clear explanations on the subjects.
Now, I think the Pistons, CR and Boost has been covered pretty much to fine details, as it always has been in previous threads also.
As much as wine has gotten to me right now, Im still gonna attempt this lol.
So guys, bear with me, I'm gonna attempt to make some sense lol <holding on to the chair, as I sit>.
Cams:
Such a nice sounding word in engine performance. Hey, whatcha running? CAMS! oh nice,....yeah but my low end sucks, I think I got a clogged cat! or maybe my exhaust pipe expanded from heat
lol
First off, you can't just throw high performance cams in a motor and call it a day. There's more than that behind this. You can't just simply think of it as a power adder and all else works like a wonder, because you might just end up turning around and beat yourself to death trying to figure out how to regain that low end torque, just like you did when your exhaust setup caused the same thing.
So understanding this a bit further, might help you deciding on exactly what you want, or if you can live with it. I say this because people usually want the best of both worlds, and in most cases you just can't have it. The cars being daily drivers makes it even harder.
The reason for a HP cam is simply to get more air into the combustion chamber to increase the power. This can be done in 2 ways, Longer valve duration, or higher valve lift...while the idea for both is the same, they're different in quiet a few ways and so effect performance in different ways...
Generally longer duration is helpful in high rpm, but not in low rpm. This is because the longer duration in high rpm allows the airflow additional time to enter or exit the cylinder.... but at lower rpms, the longer duration opens the valves too long in relation to the piston's position in the cylinder, and the pressure is lost.
So again, as I mentioned above, idea of opening the valves longer (duration) is to increase volumetric efficiency. More cylinder filling would happen from this, which is what you want, but it comes at a cost. This causes the cylinder to be exposed to the outside for long, and results in slow moving of intake-exhaust, resulting in less optimized mixture at low rpm. Longer duration also cuts down the time the piston has to compress the mixture, and you end up with less compression.
This is pretty much to say that, this setup is good for after a certain RPM, mainly towards the high-end, but comes at the cost of loss of low-end
One good thing that comes from longer duration is increased valve-overlap.
This has an effect on pulse and inertia tuning of the intake and exhaust becoming more efficient
So again, this is bad for your low-end, but good for high-end.
Now, lift.
Pretty much the idea is the same....to increase cylinder filling.
But done differently, and that's by opening the valves further (higher lift)
Now in this case, the cylinder isn't exposed to the outside longer, like it would be in the other case (with longer duration), so the slowing of the gasses and intake doesn't happen, and the result is no loss of low end.
Another good thing from this is, no change in valve timing, so there's no loss of compression.
So now you might question why cams aren't made this way, in which you result in power increase of top-end without the cost of a low end loss.
Well, there's a problem with higher lift at high rpm, and its called "valve float"
Valves open more with no increase in opening time, and this tends to cause float (this is simply acceleration of the valves from inertia of the high rpm speeds) . 2 things can happen from this...Bend the valves at high rpm, since the things are floating and the piston will hit them on its way up. Or just put a hole through the piston in the same way.
In some cases it's even worse..depending on the valve-piston clearance, CR and combustion chamber design (our motor has very little tolerance in this)
In our case, and the way our combustion chamber is along with high CR, piston-valve clearance has little tolerance, so piston banging against your exhaust valves can happen easily, (if you dont believe me, try overreving your motor to 8000 rpm in stock form..do so by mis-shifting lol)
Now this is where stiffer rate springs come in. Simply to snap the valves back shut when they should, and done so quickly.
I guess, these things are more for education purposes, and also some things to consider. So when you get a cam with longer valve opening duration, don't beat yourself up trying to figure out how and why you lost your low end.
Or when you get a cam with higher valve lift, and end up bending all your exhaust valves at at 7000 rpm, because you forgot to change your valve springs with stuffer spring rates, and your retainers, or change the valves to titanium (lighter valves). Or when you get a combo of both, Well..you better prepare yourself with the rest of the goodies
Springs, retainers, and all that. Honestly, completely pointless if you do this with the lack of 2 other things.
1- Cams with high lift lobes
2-Increase of rev limiter.
Unless, because you have too much time in your hands, and you don't know what else to do with your money lol
wheeeeewwwwwwww!!!
on clearing up a lot of the relations between CR and BOOSTAlways admire the deep and clear explanations on the subjects.
Now, I think the Pistons, CR and Boost has been covered pretty much to fine details, as it always has been in previous threads also.
As much as wine has gotten to me right now, Im still gonna attempt this lol.
So guys, bear with me, I'm gonna attempt to make some sense lol <holding on to the chair, as I sit>.
Cams:
Such a nice sounding word in engine performance. Hey, whatcha running? CAMS! oh nice,....yeah but my low end sucks, I think I got a clogged cat! or maybe my exhaust pipe expanded from heat
lolFirst off, you can't just throw high performance cams in a motor and call it a day. There's more than that behind this. You can't just simply think of it as a power adder and all else works like a wonder, because you might just end up turning around and beat yourself to death trying to figure out how to regain that low end torque, just like you did when your exhaust setup caused the same thing.
So understanding this a bit further, might help you deciding on exactly what you want, or if you can live with it. I say this because people usually want the best of both worlds, and in most cases you just can't have it. The cars being daily drivers makes it even harder.
The reason for a HP cam is simply to get more air into the combustion chamber to increase the power. This can be done in 2 ways, Longer valve duration, or higher valve lift...while the idea for both is the same, they're different in quiet a few ways and so effect performance in different ways...
Generally longer duration is helpful in high rpm, but not in low rpm. This is because the longer duration in high rpm allows the airflow additional time to enter or exit the cylinder.... but at lower rpms, the longer duration opens the valves too long in relation to the piston's position in the cylinder, and the pressure is lost.
So again, as I mentioned above, idea of opening the valves longer (duration) is to increase volumetric efficiency. More cylinder filling would happen from this, which is what you want, but it comes at a cost. This causes the cylinder to be exposed to the outside for long, and results in slow moving of intake-exhaust, resulting in less optimized mixture at low rpm. Longer duration also cuts down the time the piston has to compress the mixture, and you end up with less compression.
This is pretty much to say that, this setup is good for after a certain RPM, mainly towards the high-end, but comes at the cost of loss of low-end
One good thing that comes from longer duration is increased valve-overlap.
This has an effect on pulse and inertia tuning of the intake and exhaust becoming more efficient
So again, this is bad for your low-end, but good for high-end.
Now, lift.
Pretty much the idea is the same....to increase cylinder filling.
But done differently, and that's by opening the valves further (higher lift)
Now in this case, the cylinder isn't exposed to the outside longer, like it would be in the other case (with longer duration), so the slowing of the gasses and intake doesn't happen, and the result is no loss of low end.
Another good thing from this is, no change in valve timing, so there's no loss of compression.
So now you might question why cams aren't made this way, in which you result in power increase of top-end without the cost of a low end loss.
Well, there's a problem with higher lift at high rpm, and its called "valve float"
Valves open more with no increase in opening time, and this tends to cause float (this is simply acceleration of the valves from inertia of the high rpm speeds) . 2 things can happen from this...Bend the valves at high rpm, since the things are floating and the piston will hit them on its way up. Or just put a hole through the piston in the same way.
In some cases it's even worse..depending on the valve-piston clearance, CR and combustion chamber design (our motor has very little tolerance in this)
In our case, and the way our combustion chamber is along with high CR, piston-valve clearance has little tolerance, so piston banging against your exhaust valves can happen easily, (if you dont believe me, try overreving your motor to 8000 rpm in stock form..do so by mis-shifting lol)
Now this is where stiffer rate springs come in. Simply to snap the valves back shut when they should, and done so quickly.
I guess, these things are more for education purposes, and also some things to consider. So when you get a cam with longer valve opening duration, don't beat yourself up trying to figure out how and why you lost your low end.
Or when you get a cam with higher valve lift, and end up bending all your exhaust valves at at 7000 rpm, because you forgot to change your valve springs with stuffer spring rates, and your retainers, or change the valves to titanium (lighter valves). Or when you get a combo of both, Well..you better prepare yourself with the rest of the goodies
Springs, retainers, and all that. Honestly, completely pointless if you do this with the lack of 2 other things.
1- Cams with high lift lobes
2-Increase of rev limiter.
Unless, because you have too much time in your hands, and you don't know what else to do with your money lol
wheeeeewwwwwwww!!!
11-29-2009, 07:50 PM
#55
Safety Car
^ Opel is on-the-money.
Racing cams do not make more HP by increasing torque. Only FI or nitrous can do that. Cams work by moving your current torque to a higher rpm.
HP = (Torque X rpm) / 5252
You see. Keep the same torque value, but increase the rpm value. This yeilds higher hp.
But, you must "support" this camshaft. A real race car would recieve better gearing in the rear-end to allow the engine to rev higher. The race car would recieve a higher stall converter to allow the engine to rev higher.
With the TL, a radical camshaft would move the peak hp and assocaited shift pints to a much higher rpm. The TL would need to have the ECU fixed to allow a higher shift point (for the 5AT) and a higher rev-limit. Figure approx 500-1000 rpm higher than oem.
Racing cams do not make more HP by increasing torque. Only FI or nitrous can do that. Cams work by moving your current torque to a higher rpm.
HP = (Torque X rpm) / 5252
You see. Keep the same torque value, but increase the rpm value. This yeilds higher hp.
But, you must "support" this camshaft. A real race car would recieve better gearing in the rear-end to allow the engine to rev higher. The race car would recieve a higher stall converter to allow the engine to rev higher.
With the TL, a radical camshaft would move the peak hp and assocaited shift pints to a much higher rpm. The TL would need to have the ECU fixed to allow a higher shift point (for the 5AT) and a higher rev-limit. Figure approx 500-1000 rpm higher than oem.
11-29-2009, 09:13 PM
#56
J36Twingt28r's,nextgt30r
Thread Starter
^^ DAMN NICE INFORMATION OPEL!!! YEAH I THINK IM GONNA HAVE TO READ THROUGH UR THREAD A COUPLE TIMES AND TAKE NOTES!! LOL. Wow i guess there is alot to consider when upgrading valvetrain huh? so my boost application i think loosing low-end torque is a no go. so im gonna see what bisi makes, and look for high lift lobe cams with stiffer springs to snap the cams back into place right?
11-29-2009, 10:25 PM
#57
Team Owner
Great job IHC on clearing up a lot of the relations between CR and BOOST
Always admire the deep and clear explanations on the subjects.
Now, I think the Pistons, CR and Boost has been covered pretty much to fine details, as it always has been in previous threads also.
As much as wine has gotten to me right now, Im still gonna attempt this lol.
So guys, bear with me, I'm gonna attempt to make some sense lol <holding on to the chair, as I sit>.
Cams:
Such a nice sounding word in engine performance. Hey, whatcha running? CAMS! oh nice,....yeah but my low end sucks, I think I got a clogged cat! or maybe my exhaust pipe expanded from heat lol
First off, you can't just throw high performance cams in a motor and call it a day. There's more than that behind this. You can't just simply think of it as a power adder and all else works like a wonder, because you might just end up turning around and beat yourself to death trying to figure out how to regain that low end torque, just like you did when your exhaust setup caused the same thing.
So understanding this a bit further, might help you deciding on exactly what you want, or if you can live with it. I say this because people usually want the best of both worlds, and in most cases you just can't have it. The cars being daily drivers makes it even harder.
The reason for a HP cam is simply to get more air into the combustion chamber to increase the power. This can be done in 2 ways, Longer valve duration, or higher valve lift...while the idea for both is the same, they're different in quiet a few ways and so effect performance in different ways...
Generally longer duration is helpful in high rpm, but not in low rpm. This is because the longer duration in high rpm allows the airflow additional time to enter or exit the cylinder.... but at lower rpms, the longer duration opens the valves too long in relation to the piston's position in the cylinder, and the pressure is lost.
So again, as I mentioned above, idea of opening the valves longer (duration) is to increase volumetric efficiency. More cylinder filling would happen from this, which is what you want, but it comes at a cost. This causes the cylinder to be exposed to the outside for long, and results in slow moving of intake-exhaust, resulting in less optimized mixture at low rpm. Longer duration also cuts down the time the piston has to compress the mixture, and you end up with less compression.
This is pretty much to say that, this setup is good for after a certain RPM, mainly towards the high-end, but comes at the cost of loss of low-end
One good thing that comes from longer duration is increased valve-overlap.
This has an effect on pulse and inertia tuning of the intake and exhaust becoming more efficient
So again, this is bad for your low-end, but good for high-end.
Now, lift.
Pretty much the idea is the same....to increase cylinder filling.
But done differently, and that's by opening the valves further (higher lift)
Now in this case, the cylinder isn't exposed to the outside longer, like it would be in the other case (with longer duration), so the slowing of the gasses and intake doesn't happen, and the result is no loss of low end.
Another good thing from this is, no change in valve timing, so there's no loss of compression.
So now you might question why cams aren't made this way, in which you result in power increase of top-end without the cost of a low end loss.
Well, there's a problem with higher lift at high rpm, and its called "valve float"
Valves open more with no increase in opening time, and this tends to cause float (this is simply acceleration of the valves from inertia of the high rpm speeds) . 2 things can happen from this...Bend the valves at high rpm, since the things are floating and the piston will hit them on its way up. Or just put a hole through the piston in the same way.
In some cases it's even worse..depending on the valve-piston clearance, CR and combustion chamber design (our motor has very little tolerance in this)
In our case, and the way our combustion chamber is along with high CR, piston-valve clearance has little tolerance, so piston banging against your exhaust valves can happen easily, (if you dont believe me, try overreving your motor to 8000 rpm in stock form..do so by mis-shifting lol)
Now this is where stiffer rate springs come in. Simply to snap the valves back shut when they should, and done so quickly.
I guess, these things are more for education purposes, and also some things to consider. So when you get a cam with longer valve opening duration, don't beat yourself up trying to figure out how and why you lost your low end.
Or when you get a cam with higher valve lift, and end up bending all your exhaust valves at at 7000 rpm, because you forgot to change your valve springs with stuffer spring rates, and your retainers, or change the valves to titanium (lighter valves). Or when you get a combo of both, Well..you better prepare yourself with the rest of the goodies
Springs, retainers, and all that. Honestly, completely pointless if you do this with the lack of 2 other things.
1- Cams with high lift lobes
2-Increase of rev limiter.
Unless, because you have too much time in your hands, and you don't know what else to do with your money lol
wheeeeewwwwwwww!!!
on clearing up a lot of the relations between CR and BOOSTAlways admire the deep and clear explanations on the subjects.
Now, I think the Pistons, CR and Boost has been covered pretty much to fine details, as it always has been in previous threads also.
As much as wine has gotten to me right now, Im still gonna attempt this lol.
So guys, bear with me, I'm gonna attempt to make some sense lol <holding on to the chair, as I sit>.
Cams:
Such a nice sounding word in engine performance. Hey, whatcha running? CAMS! oh nice,....yeah but my low end sucks, I think I got a clogged cat! or maybe my exhaust pipe expanded from heat
lolFirst off, you can't just throw high performance cams in a motor and call it a day. There's more than that behind this. You can't just simply think of it as a power adder and all else works like a wonder, because you might just end up turning around and beat yourself to death trying to figure out how to regain that low end torque, just like you did when your exhaust setup caused the same thing.
So understanding this a bit further, might help you deciding on exactly what you want, or if you can live with it. I say this because people usually want the best of both worlds, and in most cases you just can't have it. The cars being daily drivers makes it even harder.
The reason for a HP cam is simply to get more air into the combustion chamber to increase the power. This can be done in 2 ways, Longer valve duration, or higher valve lift...while the idea for both is the same, they're different in quiet a few ways and so effect performance in different ways...
Generally longer duration is helpful in high rpm, but not in low rpm. This is because the longer duration in high rpm allows the airflow additional time to enter or exit the cylinder.... but at lower rpms, the longer duration opens the valves too long in relation to the piston's position in the cylinder, and the pressure is lost.
So again, as I mentioned above, idea of opening the valves longer (duration) is to increase volumetric efficiency. More cylinder filling would happen from this, which is what you want, but it comes at a cost. This causes the cylinder to be exposed to the outside for long, and results in slow moving of intake-exhaust, resulting in less optimized mixture at low rpm. Longer duration also cuts down the time the piston has to compress the mixture, and you end up with less compression.
This is pretty much to say that, this setup is good for after a certain RPM, mainly towards the high-end, but comes at the cost of loss of low-end
One good thing that comes from longer duration is increased valve-overlap.
This has an effect on pulse and inertia tuning of the intake and exhaust becoming more efficient
So again, this is bad for your low-end, but good for high-end.
Now, lift.
Pretty much the idea is the same....to increase cylinder filling.
But done differently, and that's by opening the valves further (higher lift)
Now in this case, the cylinder isn't exposed to the outside longer, like it would be in the other case (with longer duration), so the slowing of the gasses and intake doesn't happen, and the result is no loss of low end.
Another good thing from this is, no change in valve timing, so there's no loss of compression.
So now you might question why cams aren't made this way, in which you result in power increase of top-end without the cost of a low end loss.
Well, there's a problem with higher lift at high rpm, and its called "valve float"
Valves open more with no increase in opening time, and this tends to cause float (this is simply acceleration of the valves from inertia of the high rpm speeds) . 2 things can happen from this...Bend the valves at high rpm, since the things are floating and the piston will hit them on its way up. Or just put a hole through the piston in the same way.
In some cases it's even worse..depending on the valve-piston clearance, CR and combustion chamber design (our motor has very little tolerance in this)
In our case, and the way our combustion chamber is along with high CR, piston-valve clearance has little tolerance, so piston banging against your exhaust valves can happen easily, (if you dont believe me, try overreving your motor to 8000 rpm in stock form..do so by mis-shifting lol)
Now this is where stiffer rate springs come in. Simply to snap the valves back shut when they should, and done so quickly.
I guess, these things are more for education purposes, and also some things to consider. So when you get a cam with longer valve opening duration, don't beat yourself up trying to figure out how and why you lost your low end.
Or when you get a cam with higher valve lift, and end up bending all your exhaust valves at at 7000 rpm, because you forgot to change your valve springs with stuffer spring rates, and your retainers, or change the valves to titanium (lighter valves). Or when you get a combo of both, Well..you better prepare yourself with the rest of the goodies
Springs, retainers, and all that. Honestly, completely pointless if you do this with the lack of 2 other things.
1- Cams with high lift lobes
2-Increase of rev limiter.
Unless, because you have too much time in your hands, and you don't know what else to do with your money lol
wheeeeewwwwwwww!!!
In addition to the required items, stronger keepers, retainers, springs, and a higher redline to take advantage of it all, ported heads and intake tract along with full exhaust will really compliment the larger cams.
To everyone thinking of going boosted AND larger cams... The cam is nowhere nearly as important when you're running boost. However, you can try some tricks to take advantage of the boost. If the turbo is sized nicely and spools low in the rpm range you can run a larger cam with no loss in the low end and good gains up top. The same cam that would've destroyed the low end before won't hurt as bad with boost. All things in moderation though. Screw up the cam lift/duration/timing and the turbo won't spool well or it will never make power and you'll spend years trying to figure out why the car doesn't run quite right.
My personal suggestion is with the 3.2L, stick with 3.5L TL-S cams for boost. This would be very safe and you would probably pick up power across the tach. Always err on the conservative side when dealing with boost. There's more to mess up than there is to gain when dealing with cams and boost.
11-29-2009, 10:28 PM
#58
Team Owner
^^ DAMN NICE INFORMATION OPEL!!! YEAH I THINK IM GONNA HAVE TO READ THROUGH UR THREAD A COUPLE TIMES AND TAKE NOTES!! LOL. Wow i guess there is alot to consider when upgrading valvetrain huh? so my boost application i think loosing low-end torque is a no go. so im gonna see what bisi makes, and look for high lift lobe cams with stiffer springs to snap the cams back into place right?
As he said, ramp speeds go up because you're opening the valves for the same time duration but they're opening and closing farther in that same time. This is where the stiffer springs and better keepers and retainers come into play. This is also where the recommended 20wt oil goes out the door and a 30-40wt comes in regardless of oil temps.
11-30-2009, 04:27 PM
#62
J36Twingt28r's,nextgt30r
Thread Starter
yeah same here!! along with j36, and turbo hopefully by summer 2011!! and yes im going with this plan. i'll let u guys know my progress step by step. i'll make project thread as soon as i get my car dynoed as is.
12-01-2009, 02:58 PM
#64
So, after reading the well written posts on the pistons & cams, what setup exactly would be ideal to have before buying any of these new parts?
Because it seems to me that some of us who aren't running many mods wouldn't really do us that much good to buy these.
Because it seems to me that some of us who aren't running many mods wouldn't really do us that much good to buy these.
12-01-2009, 10:59 PM
#65
J36Twingt28r's,nextgt30r
Thread Starter
^^ true but every mod helps man!! i mean some people will get more power out of it no doubt but im pretty sure u will make nice gains!! from ur sig it seems ur tl-s will have nice gains either way.
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