hamsup

ok, this is for the SC'd guys.

wondering if anyone has had, or is having the same issues as me.
#1 power surging.

This has been going on for awhile now..at idle, the car will seem to have little or big "power surges" where the idle will run smooth, then when the aux fan kicks in, the idle suddenly dips ( sometimes almost stals) then kicks back up. and it would do this every 30 seconds, however if i did not use my climate control..its fine..
then my battery died..well to the point, i had to jump start it every time i turned off the car..

so i get a new battery and eevrything is good..except..when i try to run the climate control, same thing, idle dips low and seems as if the car is struggling to idle..like it had some huge cams..

now im begginning to wonder.. is the little smaller battery too small for our cars? like doesnt haev enough capacity to properly operate the car??
so next week, im gonna get a "full-sized" battery again and re-locate to the trunk. cuz as we know, there is NO room for a bigger batter under the hood for us SC'd guys..

and #2

do any of you guys have a PCV valve? cuz i apparently am missing one..or is it supposed to be this way. I know its supposted to be located on the line from the rear valve cover to the intake. but i dotn have one..just a tube connecting the 2..and i cant remember if the SC is supposed to have one or not..

cuz i have ALOT of blow-by oil getting through and leaking out of the intake cone..so im thinking of installing an in-line PCV valve on that tube, or getting a catch can..

then again, i also "may" have blown a land ring..but im not 100% on that yet..


sorry for the long post...but any help would be great../

thanks

ohh.,..guess i should also mention i have a cylinder 4 misfire code...
ive heard of others having miss fireing issues too, and the car stalls or shuts off..
mine has done that a few times too...
so is all of these just a symptom from the miss fire?

Opel

Symptoms tell me, you have broken ring lands, on more than just one piston...but #4 might be losing compression the worst, causing a missfire,while sometimes another, even though broken, can still hold enough compression.. Open the oil cap with the car running, u shouldn't see any heavy steam or smoke come out...do this with the car warmed up, preferably after a pull...pull out the dip stick, look for steam come out... U said u have a lot of blow back through the rear valve cover, and that's no good... The car does have a PCV system..if u take a look on the IM towards the firewall side, just on the other side where TB would mount on the IM that's ur PCV, running into the IM... While u may think, some blow by its ok since ur running boost. Take it from me, the PCV system is good on the car, (trust me, I have zero blow by) but having broken ring lands, is overwhelming... I suggest u take the SC off, do a compression test... If the car isn't heavily smoking, it aint ur valve seals either, so ur not getting any oil running down into the combustion chamb er. I hate to lean towards this, but I have a feeling its ur ring lands. Let me know if the spark plug inside the misfiring cylinder has broken electrode insulator.

I've had way more experience than I cared to, with this on the TL.

ussi

iTrader: (1)

^Ditto. been there done that as well. at a minimum do a leakdown/compression test...sorry to break it to you but it sounds like you're piston rings are toast

hamsup

great...just as i suspected..well the #4 cylinder is the middle front one, and i cant get at it cuc the charger runs across the front..

also the other thing, is even on idle, the idle seems to fluctuate..
like its running fine one minute, then when the auxilary fan kicks in the idle drops alot...then goes back up..then when the fan turns off, the idle still jumps up and down for aonther second or 2..

the other thing, as i've been reading about the miss-fire, like others, my car has the same symptoms...like shuts off, when going slowly into reverse, or even approaching an intersection..or if im in stop-go traffic and i just pep the throttle, then let off, the rpm drops to an almost stalling point, then goes back upto normal.. could this be from bad compression??

also, when i turn on the climate control, it effects idle too...with it off, its fine, but when i turn it on, there's a significant surge in the idle and again alsmost dies...or when just driving down the street and i turn it on, i can feel it..like the car lost power cuz it went to the climate control..

well im gonna try and get my plugs looked at this weekend first and go from there

Opel

i know the sc sits on top of 4-5-6...but u gotta remove it
at idle the motor is making the least amount of power.....if it aint running at its 100%, anything will affect it...its like, it barely makes any power to keep rotating itself, if it wasn't for the crankshaft counterweights and flywheel to keep its momentum, it wouldn't even run... with ur motors condition right now, if u had a lighter flywheel, it would keep shutting off more often... try closing ur window by holding the button up even after it closes..i bet ull see ur needle drop... pretty much at idle, any power demanding accesories will cause it to act the way u describe, even things that only require electrical power....

this can be from anything, however it is due to lack of power, and in ur case, again from ur symptoms, loss of compression.

we would all want it to be the heads, such as leaky valves, or bent valves, or anything along those things...but from what uve described... sounds like ur bottom half gotta come apart... and im pretty sure, even though ur getting a misfire from only cyl#4... there's more than just one...

i dont know ur mechanical abilities...but u can pop ur heads out, pull down the oil pan...pop the pistons from the top...the ones that had low compression... as long as there's no deep through cylinder scoring, you can hone it on the spot...pop new pistons in...new head gaskets, and ur good.... unless ur considering other options.

hamsup

well my mechanical abilities are zero to none..as i dont have a garage or a whole lot of tools..i will bring it to my mechanic who is also a good friend and does all the work on my car.
but just to get an idea..what would i be looking at price wise if these are the factors needing to be repaired? and how big of a job is it? could it be done in one day, or a week..
just wanna see what im in for..otherwise im thinking of finding out if waranty still covers anything..lol

djbonsu

iTrader: (3)

Damn, this SUX hamsup...hope everything turns out for the netter for you. Keep us updated! I was honestly thinking about getting this S/C and started to save some pennies up for it but this is like the 4th problematic story behind the reliabilty issues of this blower system for our cars G' luck!

I hate cars

Exactly. OP, I wish you the best but I completely agree with Opel, just like in the other thread that the ringlands are toast.

Again, that low compression requires higher timing to run correctly at idle which it's not programmed to have. Idle is where low compression will affect things the most.

Compression check will tell the tale. Good luck. I've been there too many times and I always tried everything else first before reality set in.

At this point, you can either come out of pocket and have new forged lower compression pistons put in. If you know people you can order a nice set of JEs for $550 or SRP (made by JE) for about $400. Add around $150 for a nice set of rings. $100 to hone the cylinders for the new rings. Other than various gaskets with the headgasket being the most expensive, it's all labor. Opel would have a better idea than me on what this procedure would cost but something tells me he probably built his own.

Option 2 would be to pull the blower off and take it in under warranty then throw the blower back on with a meth kit to ensure this doens't happen again.

I hate cars

It really is a problem. But throw a meth kit on there and you'll be fine.

hamsup

so basically, this is a minor re-build..

well i was eventually gonna pull the motor, re-build, bore and stroke..so, maybe this is an option to start on..lol

so im lookin at like a week in the shop..lol..and about $1500 in the hole

so if i took this route, got some new pistons, rings, hone..then threw on a meth kit, i'll be fine??

Opel

U would definitely be fine with forged lower compression pistons...Iam currently running them.. 9.5:1 compression..I've gone up to 9 psi, with meth and no tune yet And no problems.. I leaned out at that point so I went back to 6.5 psi untill I upgrade the fuel system.. Running 6.5 all day everyday, no problems.. I also went with a 2 step colder than stock NGK plugs as well..the densos kept breaking, becoming faulty which may have led to pre-ignition.. I broke ring lands twice....

I tried getting JE custom pistons, but they were asking for too many details and info..I didn't have time to dig all that up, and they were asking for $170 a piston.... I got Supertech pistons...135 a piece plus the rings.. I believe I paid just a bit over $900.. Supertech pretty much only asked for motor info, such as litters, # of cylinders, boost level to be used, and what u wanted as far as compression......that's all. They dig up the info. You don't have to. And ull get pistons tested at 42 psi along with gas nitrided rings and new wrist pins.. And if u break them..they'll make new ones for u for free.

U mention boring the block... Cylinder walls are too thin to be bored...unless u resleeve the whole block.. Stoke u can increase with a 3.5 crank, but u have to get the right one, bcs some years are like 1/2" shorter than the rest.

If just pistons and rings, with new head gaskets (about $80 for both), and maybe new head bolts ($7 a piece x16)..thatd be it.. I'd also check the heads just to make sure since they're off the car, check valve seating, maybe mill the heads very little, so u can start off with the most straightness..

If u have all parts before hand...I don't see anyone taking longer than a week..and that's pushing it for me..but give it a week. And while some ppl will disagree with this..I wouldn't pull the motor out completely..just the heads and the oil pan, pop the pistons out from the top..honing can be done on the spot.. Its what I did.. And rings seated incredibly... I saved a lot of time and work this way... This is considering the block is in good shape such as no crazy cylinder scoring and all that, which I doubt..I drove with broken ring lands for months..twice.. No probs. Hopefully it turns out the same for u.

Btw, pistons took 2 months for me.. So if u could bear for another 2 months the way the car runs...go for it.. Itd be well forth it.. .

I'd like to know what ur plugs look like from the cylinders with lower compression...so let me know when u pull them out... I did a big write up on this in another thread.. Some ppl didn't see it as a big deal..but either way, let me know.

04accordcpe

iTrader: (3)

sorry to hear man. definetly give it a quick compression test before you do anything.

first thing i want to ask you is, how was your a/f ratio since you had the kit installed? or do you even have a wideband?? if not, then that should be your first mod on your "to do" list. honestly, i dont see how people can drive around comfortably without keeping a eye out on the a/f ratio. its second nature to me to glance at it in WOT situations.

like IHC says, either get a meth kit and/or something tunable instead of that ACM POS. the ACM is known for running too lean in the top end, especially after 5k rpm. ive seen this with my very eyes for example, im running the rsx-s injectors (310cc) and reinstalled the ACM temporarily while i had my PnP harness repaired, my car ran super rich. however, from 5pm to redline my a/f was at a perfect 11:5. with the stock injectors (270cc) it was dangerously at 12:7-8ish since i did the j32a3 swap, i ran the greddy ultimate with a simple a/f tune ONLY for almost 2 years until i finally decided to install a meth kit. i took off the charger to plumb the lines underneath, changed the plugs which were in perfect condition, ran a compression test in all cylinders, which each one read a solid 210psi thats a miracle all in itself, considering how hard i drive my car....again, ITS ALL ABOUT THE TUNE! ive been telling you boosted to go with something tunable and up the injectors a bit for some time now. slowly but surely, these cases are starting to pop up here and there and the ACM is to blame.

if i were you, this is where my money would go,

1. wideband
2. rsx-injectors (310cc)
3. greddy ulitimate or AEM fi/c
4. meth kit (not neccessary IMO for only 4-5psi) but wouldnt hurt.

ive yet to get tuned with the AEM fi/c, but will be very soon. for now, im still running the ultimate (for a/f) along with the ACM (used for vtec ONLY). ive gone 2 years without being able to adjust the timing, but with only 4psi, it wasnt a big deal either. now with the addition of the 50/50 meth, timing retard becomes irrelevant, unless i decide to up the boost of course.

Opel

I agree with accord... The reason I went my route is because I wanted to set up for double the boost..which is why I suggested to u what I did... Its true they're running over 9 psi with the turbo set up, and intercooler (which helps a lot) tuned with F/I C, and upped fuel system...all on stock internals and its been holding... But what's also true is..ppl have been running the S/C just the way its been set up from Comptech...and haven't had problems... U can sit there and debate both to death...it comes down to what u wanna do...but since the motor has to come apart...why not strength it... That rest of the bottom end could be good for way more power than just 440 whp (numbers from turbo)... But not on stock pistons..and not for long.. Hondas in general are know for weak ring lands. So its all up to u...

I agree on the ACM being bad.. ..untill I get tuned with F/I C ..I'm running meth which has kept my AFR under 12 on 6.5 psi

Opel

Hamsum... Can u tell me exactly what exhaust setup u running? And I mean from the heads and back, including sizing!!!

ussi

iTrader: (1)

You could get CP pistons like i did as well but turn around time is like 6 weeks or so. If they still have my setup on file it might be quicker. I think its around $800 for the full set including rings. Decide exactly what you want to do before you start pulling stuff apart and order all your parts accordingly, that way when your motor is out or whatever you can just throw it all together.

And like accord said its all tuning and fuel!

ussi

iTrader: (1)

Sean, you're using ACM for vtec control only??? How is that working out for you? I heard the AEM has the capability to control vtec as well...have u looked into that?

hamsup

ok guys..great, thanks alot..
welli'm deffinately gonna look into getting new pistons and such as you mentioned..but, where can i order them from and will they ship to Canada?

im running straight pipe from cat-back, 2.5in
so i've lost back pressure.

im gonna start by getting a comp test this weekend and check the plugs..i have a feeling it may be my plugs..and i'll try running a degree or two colder..

I hate cars

Single 2.5" is not enough.

Maddizm

iTrader: (5)

^ Hey when you guys are talking about single vs Dual exhaust ... what's that mean? You mean a separate pipe from each head to it's own muffler? I'm a little confused, since I'm planning to this turbo thing. Didn't mean to thread jack.. just need clarification. So I should sell my ATLP? hehe..

04accordcpe

iTrader: (3)

ive had the fi/c for almost a year now.

had it tuned when i got it, but boomslang didnt wire the harness right, so i sent it to paul to get it re-worked and all is well going to go down next week and get tuned on both systems to see which one gives me best numbers.

Opel

u would have to call and ask if they can ship to canada..
http://www.supertechperformance.com/ call them and speak to them... the guy's name is Martin... i sent them a sample piston...they may still have it... Mention that you were referred from me (my name's Olsi) ask if they could work off my setup, and hopefully they will give you same price or better.. but you can get the compression you want...and like i mentioned earlier, if u break the pistons, they will make you new ones!!!!

as far as ur exhaust goes...u only mentioned catback 2.5"... now im assuming ur on stock J-pipe and stock cats...if thats the case...... thats very bad...you actually have way too much back pressure...and believe it or not...that can blow up ur motor...which im positive has added to ur pistons failing... i dont care what anyone tells you, your most important part of the exhaust, which is coming right off the heads, to the end of the j-pipe is left stock, it can screw up a lot of things... there's already issues with the motor as it is while supercharged... lack of proper tuning, heat from the blower, high compression, weak pistons... having such small flowing exhaust after the heads while boosted, increases combustion temps by a lot, and can also increases ur chances of running lean, since gases travel back into the chamber at valve change overs, leaning out ur already mixed fuel and fresh air.

so remember that for the future.

here';s the thing though...when u get a turbo setup...ur mostly forced into going larger exhaust right off the turbo at least, and just the way it works...the setup works off exhaust...so u end up upgrading ur exhaust regardless wether u want to or not....

on a supercharger application...u slap the blower on top of the motor and u call it a day...most not thinking past that... a supercharged is the same thing BOOOST... its increased pressure in the combustion chamber.. while most ppl will change their cats and j-pipes to better flowing...i bet you anything, their only intentions for that are power gains, while completely failing to realize that its actually a MUST, in the TL, and that goes way beyond only power gains... but this is what you always hear, "youll make more power going larger exhaust with boost"... youll never hear, "youll save the motor from blwoing by going larger exhaust with boost".

look, as far as ur plugs go...i would hope...while a bad plug will give you misfires, and lead to loss of performance...but everything else youve mentioned...it just doesnt fall on a bad plug alone... im sorry to keep saying this, man... but id rather face reality right off the bat.... but then again, i wish and hope for the best.

im sick of hearing ppl keep saying, do this, do that, no do the other,.... and barely anyone ever takes the time to educate anyone on the topic of whatever it may be about.

if you ask someone "whats the best CAI" everyone will have a diff opinion, and trust me, they're mostly opinions...but hardly anyone will ever explain anything, while it goes way beyond then just the simple "hey, get this" so the guys that need the help, still remain confused and undecisive due to the lack of real reasons and facts.

there's a milliong ways to get smth done...but only one way to get it right

I hate cars

If you're doing the turbo, there's no such thing as a true dual exhaust. In a turbo setup it would be the 3" downpipe that goes into a dual 2.5" exhaust at the 3rd cat location. The dual exhaust is just two separate pipes from the 3rd cat back.

A true dual would be separate exhaust from the heads back with there sometimes being an X or H pipe in the mix somewhere to change the sound or for scavenging.

With the turbo, there is no real scavenging so that's why you don't see any H pipes or X pipes, just the best flow possible.

Opel

yes, usually a dual means separate pipe from each head, prob combining at some point through an x pipe if needed, but still run all the way out to the tail pipes seperately,
ATLP catback? isn't that 2.5 inch? ud need a 3" single exhaust for the turbo.

i dont know much about the existing catback systems for the TL out there...because ive never bought one...never botherd, and never will... but from my understanding they're all 2.5 inch...and that's not gonna be enough for the turbo...im speaking in a single pipe... if u do a dual, then, 2.5" each pipe is fine after the DP

Opel

you could however have a dual exhaust in turbo setup...but it would have to be a turbo for each head lol, rather than combining both heads into one turbo......
isnt that called a "Twin" ?

I hate cars

LOL. Of course the twin turbo setup. Of course, I hate twins for a street car but that's a matter of preference.

Maddizm

iTrader: (5)

^ Ok... so sell the ATLP... and go to a muffler shop and have them make me the same exhaust from the 3rd cat and back except in 3"? And then pocket the extra 500 bucks I would have after the sell!? !

I hate cars

Exactly. And make sure they do the mufflers with clamps so if you decide to change the sound, it's a matter of slipping another muffler in.

One thing that sounds very good is a stainless 3" pipe with a straight through stainless muffler and you'll get turbo whistle out of the exhaust pipe. When driving next to walls or curbs even at light throttle you'll hear the whistle. Others will hear your whistle very well.

Opel

if that doesnt work well, just carry a whistle and keep blowing it out the window lol

u want good sound? go titanium piping

Maddizm

iTrader: (5)

Alright this thread is getting hi jacked... so I'm gonna post to your guys' profiles... lol

hamsup

wow, man, your awsome..thanks alot..

well i have now come to conclusion, without even doing a compression test, that my motor is gone. cuz i checked it today for blowby and there is ALOT of steam/smoke comming out..adn i just did an oil change not even a month ago and i hardly had a drop left in it..so i know fot sure the ring is gone

and i've called acura, they said to take the charger out and bring it in..but i highly doubt a blown motor will be covered by waranty.

so now im lookin at getting a new mototr and "properly" tuning that one..right off the bat. like some kind of a/f management and possibly running meth..
i'll keep the blown motor and build it on the side..

but for now i think the cheapest route is just getting a new motor..
i've asked about pistons and rings and other stuff and for the parts and labour, im lookin at 7 grand!..cuz they will have to do the bearings, seals, honing, machining, all that crap, in order to do it properly..

but ya, im sure the motor is gone...

I hate cars

The labor will be the same regardless of whether you're doing aftermarket pistons or not.

SRP is an excellent budget piston. They'll need certain common specs like combustion chamber CC, rod length, stroke, bore, and piston pin diameter. The only extra money you may run into is balancing the assembly if the new pistons are or a different weight than the old ones. Usually you make up the difference in light aftermarket pistons with a heavier pin so no additional balancing is necessary.

Back to the topic, you can get away with meth by iteslf as far as reliability is concerned. The stock pistons will hold up fine as long as you keep it out of detonation.

04accordcpe

iTrader: (3)

ya man, i think that would be your best bet. there are some good motors to be had out there. what i suggest, do what i did and get an unlimited carfax for one month, so you can call around and ask for the vin# on the engines to verify milage.

i managed to find my j32a3 long block with only 6700 miles out of an 06 for 2500.00 shipped to my door. they usually come complete with the coilpacks too, so all you need is to transfer your accessories and your set

GL

hamsup

well theres another member here who is doin a type-s swap, so, im gonna get his motor and swap it in. we are gonna go to the same shop, so they can cup as adeal on instals for 2 swaps..lol
he's givin it to me for a very decent prince..so i've now decided this is wht im gonna do...not gonna bother with the compression test and all that crap..i already know the out come..but now im just wondering about meth....and what kind of tuning to do. so i dont blow this motor too