Engine Port & Polish, new Valves
04-28-2007, 05:04 PM
#41
Originally Posted by dan.....k
^Does anyone have the specs for both cams?
i found this
Originally Posted by 02AV6
Camshaft specs:
J32A2 '01-03 CL-S/TL-S
intake (pri), (mid), (sec), exhaust
34.737mm, 36.445mm, 34.919mm, 36.389mm
J35A8 '05+ RL
35.284, 36.445, 35.284 , 36.389
J32A3 '04+ TL/J30A4 - '03+ AV6
35.041, 36.445, 35.284, 36.326
04-28-2007, 05:22 PM
#42
Racer
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 429
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by ussi
oops..i meant deterioration of the top of the piston
And yes. This has to do with running lean and octane boosters. It’s good for people who are using regular to know how it looks. I think you have supercharger but it can happen to the high compression natural aspirated engine running low octane fuel just as well.
04-28-2007, 05:37 PM
#43
Racer
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 429
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by ussi
i found this
Originally Posted by 02AV6
Camshaft specs:
J32A2 '01-03 CL-S/TL-S
intake (pri), (mid), (sec), exhaust
34.737mm, 36.445mm, 34.919mm, 36.389mm
J35A8 '05+ RL
35.284, 36.445, 35.284 , 36.389
J32A3 '04+ TL/J30A4 - '03+ AV6
35.041, 36.445, 35.284, 36.326
Originally Posted by 02AV6
Camshaft specs:
J32A2 '01-03 CL-S/TL-S
intake (pri), (mid), (sec), exhaust
34.737mm, 36.445mm, 34.919mm, 36.389mm
J35A8 '05+ RL
35.284, 36.445, 35.284 , 36.389
J32A3 '04+ TL/J30A4 - '03+ AV6
35.041, 36.445, 35.284, 36.326
May be you should consider changing valve springs even if you are not changing camshafts if you plan to miss gear again.
04-28-2007, 07:15 PM
#44
Originally Posted by mishar
That’s more of OOOPS! You should check the rest of the engine. Piston rings could be stuck, bearings affected too.
Originally Posted by mishar
May be you should consider changing valve springs even if you are not changing camshafts if you plan to miss gear again.
04-28-2007, 09:16 PM
#45
Safety Car
As an old fashion hotrodder modding small block chevys, I will over this contribution to this thread.
Lift means NOTHING. A cam's lift has NILL effect on HP. Of course this is within reasonable boundaries. I don't mean that someone can grind down the lobe and it would be ok... I am Not saying that. I am saying that with any manufactered camshaft, weather oem or aftermarket, the lift is NOT important to HP or torque (with a couple percent AT most).
What is the HUGE factor is camshaft duration measued at 0.050". This is the BIGGEST, and I would say the only factor, that needs to be discussed when discussing camshafts. Of course, there is fine details like lobe centerlines, but that goes beyond a basic discussion of camshafts in regards to the gross HP it would produce.
Lift means NOTHING. A cam's lift has NILL effect on HP. Of course this is within reasonable boundaries. I don't mean that someone can grind down the lobe and it would be ok... I am Not saying that. I am saying that with any manufactered camshaft, weather oem or aftermarket, the lift is NOT important to HP or torque (with a couple percent AT most).
What is the HUGE factor is camshaft duration measued at 0.050". This is the BIGGEST, and I would say the only factor, that needs to be discussed when discussing camshafts. Of course, there is fine details like lobe centerlines, but that goes beyond a basic discussion of camshafts in regards to the gross HP it would produce.
04-28-2007, 10:01 PM
#46
Safety Car
It's me again....
I had some second thoughts regarding my previous post.
As an old timer that liked to modify small block chevy, I swapped camshafts like underwear. So for me, a camshaft should boost HP by at least 40 HP at the mild end of the scale, and boost HP by around 100 HP on the wilder side of the scale. So, a cam swap is a mod giving 60'ish to 100'ish HP improvement.
That was my mentality when I made the comment about camshaft lift not increasing HP. Sure, increased lift will get you about 10 to 15 HP increase (maybe) in a small block chevy..... but, I meant that this 10-15 HP "maybe" increase is nill compared to the 60-100 HP gain from a long duration (measured at 0.050 inch) camshaft.
Here is my current thougth (retracting my previous post)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
For us with modern cars like the TL, we are limited in how we can mod our cars. We must take a "few HP improvement" anyway that we can. So, the nill/slight HP improvement from increasing camshaft lift is a goal worthy of pursuing.
I had some second thoughts regarding my previous post.
As an old timer that liked to modify small block chevy, I swapped camshafts like underwear. So for me, a camshaft should boost HP by at least 40 HP at the mild end of the scale, and boost HP by around 100 HP on the wilder side of the scale. So, a cam swap is a mod giving 60'ish to 100'ish HP improvement.
That was my mentality when I made the comment about camshaft lift not increasing HP. Sure, increased lift will get you about 10 to 15 HP increase (maybe) in a small block chevy..... but, I meant that this 10-15 HP "maybe" increase is nill compared to the 60-100 HP gain from a long duration (measured at 0.050 inch) camshaft.
Here is my current thougth (retracting my previous post)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
For us with modern cars like the TL, we are limited in how we can mod our cars. We must take a "few HP improvement" anyway that we can. So, the nill/slight HP improvement from increasing camshaft lift is a goal worthy of pursuing.
04-29-2007, 06:47 AM
#47
Originally Posted by mishar
I saw this post earlier. This numbers look like guy took micrometer and measured cams. If it is so it is not of any value. To determine lift minimum diameter should be subtracted from maximum cam measure. But even if lift is same cams can be different. One can open and close valves faster then the other, keeping them opened longer. That would give more power at higher rpm. Cam on that would look dull compared to the other one.
May be you should consider changing valve springs even if you are not changing camshafts if you plan to miss gear again.
May be you should consider changing valve springs even if you are not changing camshafts if you plan to miss gear again.
He did not measure the cams himself. These numbers are right our of the book, you can find them in helms or while your at a dealship, they will look it up for you.
The book doesn't list the lift, duration, centerline of these cams or ramp rate.
Originally Posted by ussi
if i upgrade to TLS or RL cams should i but the corresponding valve springs to go with it?
04-29-2007, 06:44 PM
#48
Racer
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 429
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by ussi
stuck piston rings could cause this?
it was my first and only time doing that..its kinda embarrasing actually..a costly mistake.. but seriously..if i upgrade to TLS or RL cams should i but the corresponding valve springs to go with it?
If rpm are higher and cam ramps steeper than valves accelerations are higher, which combined with heavier valves (1mm larger), requires higher spring forces in order that rockers closely follow cams.
ECU is going to prevent higher rpm, 1mm larger valves are just barely heavier and I think that RL cams are not too much different than TL’s. On the other hand harder springs create more of mechanical resistance wasting some power.
I wouldn’t change springs. I am not sure that I would change camshafts either, at least not before I have exact specifications of them (TL and RL).
04-29-2007, 06:48 PM
#49
Racer
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 429
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by ThinJim
He did not measure the cams himself. These numbers are right our of the book, you can find them in helms or while your at a dealship, they will look it up for you.
The book doesn't list the lift, duration, centerline of these cams or ramp rate.
The book doesn't list the lift, duration, centerline of these cams or ramp rate.
04-29-2007, 07:09 PM
#50
Racer
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 429
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Inaccurate
It's me again....
I had some second thoughts regarding my previous post.
As an old timer that liked to modify small block chevy, I swapped camshafts like underwear. So for me, a camshaft should boost HP by at least 40 HP at the mild end of the scale, and boost HP by around 100 HP on the wilder side of the scale. So, a cam swap is a mod giving 60'ish to 100'ish HP improvement.
That was my mentality when I made the comment about camshaft lift not increasing HP. Sure, increased lift will get you about 10 to 15 HP increase (maybe) in a small block chevy..... but, I meant that this 10-15 HP "maybe" increase is nill compared to the 60-100 HP gain from a long duration (measured at 0.050 inch) camshaft.
Here is my current thougth (retracting my previous post)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
For us with modern cars like the TL, we are limited in how we can mod our cars. We must take a "few HP improvement" anyway that we can. So, the nill/slight HP improvement from increasing camshaft lift is a goal worthy of pursuing.
I had some second thoughts regarding my previous post.
As an old timer that liked to modify small block chevy, I swapped camshafts like underwear. So for me, a camshaft should boost HP by at least 40 HP at the mild end of the scale, and boost HP by around 100 HP on the wilder side of the scale. So, a cam swap is a mod giving 60'ish to 100'ish HP improvement.
That was my mentality when I made the comment about camshaft lift not increasing HP. Sure, increased lift will get you about 10 to 15 HP increase (maybe) in a small block chevy..... but, I meant that this 10-15 HP "maybe" increase is nill compared to the 60-100 HP gain from a long duration (measured at 0.050 inch) camshaft.
Here is my current thougth (retracting my previous post)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
For us with modern cars like the TL, we are limited in how we can mod our cars. We must take a "few HP improvement" anyway that we can. So, the nill/slight HP improvement from increasing camshaft lift is a goal worthy of pursuing.
04-29-2007, 09:27 PM
#51
Originally Posted by mishar
Anyway those numbers alone do not say much, if anything.
04-29-2007, 10:54 PM
#52
.43g at 900+fps
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Wahiawa, HI
Age: 44
Posts: 167
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
those numbers do mean something, just not as much as one would think. as inaccurate said, duration is probably more important to a cam profile than the lift is. but if the rl cam does make more power than the tl cam does, then i am all for it. the only other people that would make a cam for us is webcam. i was quoted around 700 bucks to get my current stock cams regrinded. but the turnaround time is around three weeks. that's a little too long for me. so i'm gonna try the rl cams. thinjim, you gots a pm from me. checkka chekka check it out!
04-29-2007, 11:45 PM
#54
in my journey to a better cam for the J series i contacted some reputable companies, i sent them a set of cl-s cams, and gave them those HELMs lift numbers, they said those numbers mean nothing. they are just limits telling you if somethings needs to be adjusted/replaced.
04-30-2007, 12:35 AM
#55
Racer
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 429
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by ThinJim
They do say something. It says the RL cams have a higher lift due to the taller lobe. what that lift is no one knows, but it does have more lift. Doesn't matter anyway, no'ones going to try it and everyone has a different opinion and the fact remains that the RL cams are a better performer than the tl's.
“Fact” that RL cams are better performers has yet to be proved. First specs, then test numbers. Feelings and opinions fit better with poetry then with engines.
04-30-2007, 08:16 AM
#56
Originally Posted by mishar
No they do not say that. To get a lift you have to subtract base diameter from those numbers. If base diameter on RL camshaft is bigger than its lift is lower.
“Fact” that RL cams are better performers has yet to be proved. First specs, then test numbers. Feelings and opinions fit better with poetry then with engines.
“Fact” that RL cams are better performers has yet to be proved. First specs, then test numbers. Feelings and opinions fit better with poetry then with engines.
"Fact", The fact is, the rl has higher net hp than the tls. they are both 11:1 motors. Fact, it hasn't been disproved either. The rl is 500 lbs heavier than the tls, and those cams aid in moving that weight.
There's no poetry involved at all, and it's not a "feeling". Let me know when you go into one of these heads and completly take it apart and take measurements, lay cams side by side, make valve spring comparisions, then you will come to a more favorable conclusion.
04-30-2007, 09:32 AM
#57
Ryan Christopher
From a pure race perspective, the TL-S cams offer a better result. The lighter cam reduces mass, same principle as using a the light weight underdrive pully. Reducing the weight is always a good thing. As for springs, if you are going to use a higher lift cam, you will want to use the appropriate springs. If you do not, you run the risk of floating the valves even at a moderate RPM.
As for a 40-100 HP gain with a cam swap on a Honda engine, NO. Honda has spent a lot of time maximizing HP on thier engines.
There just needs to be a test done with the different cam's to determine what the "best" performer is.
Good luck with the project.
As for a 40-100 HP gain with a cam swap on a Honda engine, NO. Honda has spent a lot of time maximizing HP on thier engines.
There just needs to be a test done with the different cam's to determine what the "best" performer is.
Good luck with the project.
04-30-2007, 12:45 PM
#58
Racer
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 429
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by ThinJim
While what you say has some credibility, however, the rl cam still has a slightly higher lift than other j series motors. You won't convince me it's not worth it or not true. Those lobe heights are a measurement of wear as you say, and they also give a stong indication that the profile of the cam is hotter than that of the other j motors.
"Fact", The fact is, the rl has higher net hp than the tls. they are both 11:1 motors. Fact, it hasn't been disproved either. The rl is 500 lbs heavier than the tls, and those cams aid in moving that weight.
There's no poetry involved at all, and it's not a "feeling". Let me know when you go into one of these heads and completly take it apart and take measurements, lay cams side by side, make valve spring comparisions, then you will come to a more favorable conclusion.
"Fact", The fact is, the rl has higher net hp than the tls. they are both 11:1 motors. Fact, it hasn't been disproved either. The rl is 500 lbs heavier than the tls, and those cams aid in moving that weight.
There's no poetry involved at all, and it's not a "feeling". Let me know when you go into one of these heads and completly take it apart and take measurements, lay cams side by side, make valve spring comparisions, then you will come to a more favorable conclusion.
I also agree that if I have two engines on my table I would know way more then now. Since I do not have them I would like to get some reliable information from somebody who has. I have enough indications and wishful thinking of my own, but they unfortunately do not make more power.
For the end, there is a lot of romantic poetry around here. Most of people are in loved with their TL’s. May be rimes are not the best, but all other components are present.
04-30-2007, 07:00 PM
#59
Update:
New valves came in today.
Also, i picked the TL-S cams and dropped them at the machine shop and ordered the TL-S valve springs as well ($6 each). Went with the TL-S cams just cause they were like a $100/each cheaper than the RL ones. The machinist is going to test fit them.
As for the polish, the manifold (intake) will be left a little rough, and the manifold (exhuast) side will be a mirror finish.
I should have the port/polish/valves and cams in by friday, then i'll throw everything back into my car along with my new procats and thermoblock spacers by this weekend hopefully
New valves came in today.
Also, i picked the TL-S cams and dropped them at the machine shop and ordered the TL-S valve springs as well ($6 each). Went with the TL-S cams just cause they were like a $100/each cheaper than the RL ones. The machinist is going to test fit them.
As for the polish, the manifold (intake) will be left a little rough, and the manifold (exhuast) side will be a mirror finish.
I should have the port/polish/valves and cams in by friday, then i'll throw everything back into my car along with my new procats and thermoblock spacers by this weekend hopefully
04-30-2007, 07:47 PM
#60
Originally Posted by mishar
I agree with you that there are some indications that RL cam has a slightly higher lift. But only indications. If you get your OEM cams grinded lobe measure will be considerably smaller, but you will have more of lift and duration. There are not even indications about duration of RL cams. Even if there is more of lift and duration that still doesn’t give any guaranties that it would perform better in TL engine. That has to be tested.
I think your a little off on your understanding of "grinding the cam lobe". If you grind the cam lobe, you will not get "more lift". It is a physical impossibility. You can get more duration if it's ground that way, and they may be able to change the ramp rate, but not increase the lift. Increasing the lift can only occur if material is added to the lobes. Cam modifying is tricky and I've never been a fan of it personally.
No one knows what the duration of these cams are, but if you take the cams and increase the duration by grinding, then you are effectively reducing the lift of the cam.
good luck you guys.
04-30-2007, 09:30 PM
#61
Originally Posted by ThinJim
Additionally, the 07 RL valve springs have 10 lbs more tension on them for those who want to know. I did the comparision between the cl, 05 rl and 07 rl springs.
2001 CL Intake Valve Spring: 14761-PGE-A01
2005 RL Intake Valve Spring: 14761-PGE-A01
2001 CL Exhaust Valve Spring: 14762-P8E-A02
2005 RL Exhaust Valve Spring: 14762-RJA-003
cams specs from the helms (which i thought you were basing the "taller lift" on):
2001 CL - 2005 RL
pri 34.737mm -35.284mm
mid 36.445mm -36.445mm
sec 34.919mm- 35.284mm
exh 36.389mm - 36.389
so... from the above numbers, only the intake side of the cams are more aggressive on the RL, but both the CL-S and RL share the same Intake Valve Spring part numbers. so i'm not sure measuring the springs rates has any validity. actually the springs should have been identical, not sure why you got a 10lb difference, i'm assuming you measured used springs, that's the only explanation i can think of, or maybe it was the exhaust springs since those are 2 different part numbers. but i gather from your posts you actually measured the physical cams, that's what i'm interested in, i have a set of custom grind cl-s cams, but i'm waiting on install right now.
05-01-2007, 01:10 AM
#62
Racer
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 429
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by ThinJim
Bad choice of words on my part using the word "indications." Let me clarify... The RL cam HAS higher lift than the 04-05 TL....
I think your a little off on your understanding of "grinding the cam lobe". If you grind the cam lobe, you will not get "more lift".
Yellow is simplified OEM cam. You can see duration and lift, also in yellow. If you grind it to red profile (exaggerated grinding in order to be more visible) you will get more of duration and lift, marked in red. If you measure lobs yellow would be bigger than red.
It is a physical impossibility. You can get more duration if it's ground that way, and they may be able to change the ramp rate, but not increase the lift.
Increasing the lift can only occur if material is added to the lobes. Cam modifying is tricky and I've never been a fan of it personally.
No one knows what the duration of these cams are, but if you take the cams and increase the duration by grinding, then you are effectively reducing the lift of the cam.
good luck you guys.
good luck you guys.
05-01-2007, 04:38 AM
#63
Originally Posted by CleanCL
(keep in mind these is with the CL type S in mind)
2001 CL Intake Valve Spring: 14761-PGE-A01
2005 RL Intake Valve Spring: 14761-PGE-A01
2001 CL Exhaust Valve Spring: 14762-P8E-A02
2005 RL Exhaust Valve Spring: 14762-RJA-003
cams specs from the helms (which i thought you were basing the "taller lift" on):
2001 CL - 2005 RL
pri 34.737mm -35.284mm
mid 36.445mm -36.445mm
sec 34.919mm- 35.284mm
exh 36.389mm - 36.389
so... from the above numbers, only the intake side of the cams are more aggressive on the RL, but both the CL-S and RL share the same Intake Valve Spring part numbers. so i'm not sure measuring the springs rates has any validity. actually the springs should have been identical, not sure why you got a 10lb difference, i'm assuming you measured used springs, that's the only explanation i can think of, or maybe it was the exhaust springs since those are 2 different part numbers. but i gather from your posts you actually measured the physical cams, that's what i'm interested in, i have a set of custom grind cl-s cams, but i'm waiting on install right now.
2001 CL Intake Valve Spring: 14761-PGE-A01
2005 RL Intake Valve Spring: 14761-PGE-A01
2001 CL Exhaust Valve Spring: 14762-P8E-A02
2005 RL Exhaust Valve Spring: 14762-RJA-003
cams specs from the helms (which i thought you were basing the "taller lift" on):
2001 CL - 2005 RL
pri 34.737mm -35.284mm
mid 36.445mm -36.445mm
sec 34.919mm- 35.284mm
exh 36.389mm - 36.389
so... from the above numbers, only the intake side of the cams are more aggressive on the RL, but both the CL-S and RL share the same Intake Valve Spring part numbers. so i'm not sure measuring the springs rates has any validity. actually the springs should have been identical, not sure why you got a 10lb difference, i'm assuming you measured used springs, that's the only explanation i can think of, or maybe it was the exhaust springs since those are 2 different part numbers. but i gather from your posts you actually measured the physical cams, that's what i'm interested in, i have a set of custom grind cl-s cams, but i'm waiting on install right now.
Originally Posted by mishar
How much higher and where did you find that?
You are right, but I never said that I would grind the cam lobe. I said “if you grind your OEM cams”. I was thinking that you know something about it so I should not explain every word. May be picture will help:
Yellow is simplified OEM cam. You can see duration and lift, also in yellow. If you grind it to red profile (exaggerated grinding in order to be more visible) you will get more of duration and lift, marked in red. If you measure lobs yellow would be bigger than red.
No. If you grind the lobe only thing you can do with that camshaft is recycle it. It is good steel.
It is tricky because lob surfaces are reinforced and very hart. You need machine specially made for grinding camshafts and you need to reinforce surface again after grinding. I am not sure that it is easier than making it new from scratches.
You would need all luck in the world just to explain how would you do that.
You are right, but I never said that I would grind the cam lobe. I said “if you grind your OEM cams”. I was thinking that you know something about it so I should not explain every word. May be picture will help:
Yellow is simplified OEM cam. You can see duration and lift, also in yellow. If you grind it to red profile (exaggerated grinding in order to be more visible) you will get more of duration and lift, marked in red. If you measure lobs yellow would be bigger than red.
No. If you grind the lobe only thing you can do with that camshaft is recycle it. It is good steel.
It is tricky because lob surfaces are reinforced and very hart. You need machine specially made for grinding camshafts and you need to reinforce surface again after grinding. I am not sure that it is easier than making it new from scratches.
You would need all luck in the world just to explain how would you do that.
If you cut anything off the top of the lobe to increase duration, you have effectively lowered the lift of the cam. If you trim the sides, Yellow, then you change the ramp rate, speed at which the valve opens. Duration, as i Believe you to understand it, is a measure of how long the valve is open. Some cam lobes are more "pointy" than others with a more rounded lobe, the more "pointy" the lobe, the less duration. If you cut any portion of the red, which is the top of the lobe you will reduce the lift.
05-01-2007, 11:21 AM
#64
Racer
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 429
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by ThinJim
If you cut anything off the top of the lobe to increase duration, you have effectively lowered the lift of the cam.
If you trim the sides, Yellow, then you change the ramp rate, speed at which the valve opens. Duration, as i Believe you to understand it, is a measure of how long the valve is open. Some cam lobes are more "pointy" than others with a more rounded lobe, the more "pointy" the lobe, the less duration. If you cut any portion of the red, which is the top of the lobe you will reduce the lift.
Just for the reference: I am mechanical engineer specialized in Internal Combustion Engines and Motor Vehicles and I am doing this for about 40 years. You may not believe that, but just have it in mind when you start teaching me again. Of course if you figure out that there are things that you do not understand, you are more than welcome to ask.
05-01-2007, 01:25 PM
#65
Originally Posted by mishar
You can not cut top of the lobe. You need that material to open your valves. Even if you cut it you are not changing duration. You are just lowering the lift.
You grind off all of the yellow and you get longer duration, as you can see marked on the drawing, that angle is duration, and you get higher lift, also marked at the drawing.
Just for the reference: I am mechanical engineer specialized in Internal Combustion Engines and Motor Vehicles and I am doing this for about 40 years. You may not believe that, but just have it in mind when you start teaching me again. Of course if you figure out that there are things that you do not understand, you are more than welcome to ask.
You grind off all of the yellow and you get longer duration, as you can see marked on the drawing, that angle is duration, and you get higher lift, also marked at the drawing.
Just for the reference: I am mechanical engineer specialized in Internal Combustion Engines and Motor Vehicles and I am doing this for about 40 years. You may not believe that, but just have it in mind when you start teaching me again. Of course if you figure out that there are things that you do not understand, you are more than welcome to ask.
So grinding the yellow is changing the base circle of the cam? That opens up other issues with the geometry of the rockers to name one. Then it's possible the rl cam may not have more lift as it depends on the base circle. I will find out on that as I'm very curious now. looks like you were teaching me.
05-01-2007, 02:13 PM
#66
Racer
Join Date: Feb 2007
Posts: 429
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by ThinJim
So grinding the yellow is changing the base circle of the cam? That opens up other issues with the geometry of the rockers to name one. Then it's possible the rl cam may not have more lift as it depends on the base circle. I will find out on that as I'm very curious now. looks like you were teaching me.
I am sorry about teaching. I tend to do that. Actually I did that professionally for quite some time.
05-03-2007, 06:36 PM
#67
just FYI... TL-S cams weigh only ~ 2 pounds less than stock cams and the spring tension on the valve springs are only 2 pounds more than the stock springs.
I have the TL-S cams which are going in my car, but i stuck with the stock valve springs just b/c i thought it wouldn't make much of a difference (i hope..) and the fact that the intake springs are on backorder so it would take a week to get.
should have my heads assembled/ported by tomorrow...
I have the TL-S cams which are going in my car, but i stuck with the stock valve springs just b/c i thought it wouldn't make much of a difference (i hope..) and the fact that the intake springs are on backorder so it would take a week to get.
should have my heads assembled/ported by tomorrow...
05-06-2007, 01:56 AM
#69
P&P pics
here are pics of the intake manifold and head after the port and polish:
check out the new valves!
didn't get a chance to snap pics of the cams..
i just got this back from the machine shop today and dropped it off to my mechanic. he'll have it back to me this week..can't wait!
cams are like $150/each..if you want springs they're like $6 each (x24)
check out the new valves!
didn't get a chance to snap pics of the cams..
i just got this back from the machine shop today and dropped it off to my mechanic. he'll have it back to me this week..can't wait!
cams are like $150/each..if you want springs they're like $6 each (x24)
05-06-2007, 02:03 AM
#70
Pro
nice....gotta let me know how the TL-S cams turned out....cause i really dont wanna send my cams out to get welded and grounded down, cause the like to fall apart after wear and tear....Dyno sheets maybe??? btw....is that a ford taurus that the heads are sittin in while you were taking the pics?
new valves, new cams, port & polish, TB spacers, and Procats.
05-06-2007, 07:55 PM
#73
.43g at 900+fps
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Wahiawa, HI
Age: 44
Posts: 167
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by 3rdGenHybrid
nice....gotta let me know how the TL-S cams turned out....cause i really dont wanna send my cams out to get welded and grounded down, cause the like to fall apart after wear and tear....Dyno sheets maybe??? btw....is that a ford taurus that the heads are sittin in while you were taking the pics?
actually, when i spoke to webcam, they said they weren't going to weld and grind the cam. just grind. they have previously made a successful cam for our application and that the profile has been stored for future reference. personally speaking, i have never ran across any problems using webcams' regrinds. they have worked perfectly well for me in the past, with no more wear and tear than any other set of cams i have used. i can't speak for any other regrind facility, but webcam is very reliable.
05-06-2007, 08:12 PM
#74
Originally Posted by jdmspec333
actually, when i spoke to webcam, they said they weren't going to weld and grind the cam. just grind. they have previously made a successful cam for our application and that the profile has been stored for future reference. personally speaking, i have never ran across any problems using webcams' regrinds. they have worked perfectly well for me in the past, with no more wear and tear than any other set of cams i have used. i can't speak for any other regrind facility, but webcam is very reliable.
Originally Posted by 3rdGenHybrid
btw....is that a ford taurus that the heads are sittin in while you were taking the pics?
05-07-2007, 02:49 AM
#76
Originally Posted by JOES05tl
damn USSI, you still have that truck!?!
And I think you still owe me a ride in that beast when its done!
And I think you still owe me a ride in that beast when its done!
i'm trying to convince myself to drive out for the all cal meet and we can go for a cruise
05-07-2007, 12:31 PM
#78
Originally Posted by JOES05tl
Nice! And I know that truck is costing you at least 40 bucks a day to rent, plus about 20 bucks a day in gas, which has gotta sting a little 
05-09-2007, 07:28 PM
#80
.43g at 900+fps
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Wahiawa, HI
Age: 44
Posts: 167
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
okay so i just put in my order for the 07 tl-s cams. my main worry is that if they will fit. as long as they fit, it can't be bad. i mean, they can't perform worse than the 04-06 cams, and even if it's not that much more lift or duration, the hollow cams, should free up some amount of power due to the lightweight and reduced inertia. i hope that made sense...