erick3

Anyone have suggests on how to better cool my motor without doing crazy custom work? I've noticed a huge amount of power/torque loss after the cars been running for even 15 minutes. Engine's hot/heat-soaked...
Do we have anything out there for n/a motors?
...Gaskets?

I hate cars

CAI, gaskets, and blocking off coolant to the TB.

What I would try first is a few gallons of 100 unleaded to see if the issue still exists. Regardless, the mods listed above would help but it may be detonation and not just heat soak.

TCM 01 CL-S

What is your reasoning behind the few gallons of 100 octane unleaded? Just curious.

erick3

yeah...i don't understand that issue?
if it's detonation issues...could that relate to having funny transmission shifts? slipping from 5th to say 3rd on the aggressive runs?

erick3

i'm thinking about getting some gaskets...not quite sure as of yet
maybe i'm just running the car too hard? iono...despite, its been an issue i've had for quite some time...i thought a mod would fix it

I hate cars

Because if it's detonation, it will go away with the high octane. This will determine how you approach the problem.

erick3

^ what exactly should i expect? and can i use octane boost?

I hate cars

If you don't want to run 100 unleaded, pick up a couple gallons of xylene or tolulene at your local hardware store or paint store and mix it with at least a half tank of gas. That will put you somewhere near 96 octane.

What to expect is nothing. The car should get just a little slower as it warms up but should retain most of it's power. If the problem still exists, you can be confident that it's only power you're losing and you're not hurting the engine.

Octane boosters cost nearly as much as a gallon of tolulene and tolulene is the main ingredient. The boosters only boost in points as in 91 octane to 91.7 octane.

BukvaMan

check your air intake sensor... had the same problem as you.

erick3

shoot...i have pre-cat deletes with a cel

pohljm

Insulate your CAI, mine stays very cool

ifirahse

iTrader: (6)

Do the TB coolant bypass mod.

I noticed the car was a little peppier after I did that.

milk man

how many miles do you have on your motor?

didnt you also have troubles with your tranny?

i think that you may have bought a lemon.....

erick3

to tell you the truth, you're absolutely right...i did purchase a lemon i never even knew about the law until after the specified mileage of return.
i did indeed have a transmission failure...but could that really be a problem? -_-

KzooTL

If you have a CEL get it checked out first thing.

Cooling, why not be the first to do a cowl hood, best way to dissipate heat.

So your butt dyno tells you your losing HP after 15 minutes of driving? If its really an issue get some proper diagnostics haha

milk man

i dont know if it has anything to do with the tranny at all... but how many miles are on your motor?

maybe alot of wear and tear

t0talacuratl

iTrader: (3)

I'm kind of having the same problem as the OP. When the temp outside when up to 80's, my car felt sluggish after a few minutes of driving. Once the temp cools down at night, the pep comes back as good as ever. I've got all the mods mention to help cool things down. I do have over 90k, so that maybe an issue. Does that mean I need to do the 105k service sooner?

That's interesting, what do I need to look for?

t0talacuratl

iTrader: (3)

That's interesting as well. I had insulation on my V1, and don't remember having heat soak problems last summer. I might go back to that.

stillhere153

iTrader: (1)

gold foil on the intake... and modify the fan switch to come on sooner... they sell a fan switch believe all honda's use the same

also there are company's which make coolant fluids which keep the temperatures lower... I am anal about only running the blue stuff.... but hey if the stuff keeps the car cooler thats what you want, go for it... see royal purple

I hate cars

I've never shyed away from using non OEM and not approved fluids but coolant is one I would stay OEM with. If you want slightly better cooling, when you do a drain and refill, use half a gallon of distilled water. Water cools better than antifreeze. Don't do this if you live in an extremely cold climate.

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

If you want to reduce IAT's the P2R thermal gaskets will help. The TB gasket, the intake mani gasket will both help.

t0talacuratl

iTrader: (3)

Hey Still...I remember you having it on one of your old intakes. Where did you get that gold foil anyway?

erick3

good point...she has 80,100 but she's still pushing hard! tonight...the fun lasted past 15 minutes. it's on and off...and i promise you it isn't just in my head! it's noticeable...but then again, it was a lot cooler out tonight...

erick3

all great responses...i think i'll be doing the gold foiling (where exactly do you get that) but my main concern is whether or not the car SHOULD be having the above symptoms. obviously, when it gets hotter out and more humid, less air blah blah blah, yeah...but after 15 minutes of driving, i really don't feel like the engine should getting be so heat-soaked.

excelerate, i'll hit you up for some gaskets for sure.

Costco

In addition to what's been said, get a lower temp. thermostat. It will open up the coolant passage at a lower temp and thus start cooling down your car sooner. It will take your car longer to warm up. It kinda sucks since you can't take off the exhaust manifolds on the 3G TL IIRC, supposedly header coating lowers the temp a lot.

t0talacuratl

iTrader: (3)

Here is a couple of sites for the gold foil. I ordered two from CDOC. Figure I will need that much for the V2.

http://www.cdoc.com/detail.asp?id=34...rotective+Film

http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pro...p?Product=1838

So that is out of the way; now where can we get the fan switch and the thermostat?

CleanCL

iTrader: (4)

A lower temperature thermostat provides no purposes on a car that does not have the fan switch to come on sooner. It was my understanding there is no longer a fan switch. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

Bender

Couldnt you take the iat sensor on the block and relocate it to the air intake and buy another sensor to plug the hole? you could then switch it back and forth. I had a jeep with a 318 and did this with positive results plus it would be reading the actual temp of the air before it went into the engine.

Wouldnt that advance the timing slightly and get more power?

NedShneebly

The AEM CAI has an IAT bung forward on the pipe for this very reason. It's labeled the "FOR OFF ROAD USE ONLY" mod in the installation instructions. Some relocated the IAT per instructions and although they wanted to believe mileage and power were improved, it didn't do much if anything (I think the ECU and the way newer cars sense intake temp and velocity won in the end).

However, I don't recall if it was warm weather tested. I think you can search "CAI+IAT" for the old thread.

gshotpapi

is the gold foil the best option for wrapping the intake with? I have seen other people using something more like a thin cloth type material and its wrapped on the intake like people used to wrap leather on a steering wheel... what is that material called?
thanks.

t0talacuratl

iTrader: (3)

It's called Gold Foil Film PSA. From a member on here and a web search, it is perferred. I ordered it and should get it tomorrow.

I hate cars

Just about any type of wrap will be within a few % of one another for a CAI. I would buy based on price. The air if flowing through there so fast, it really doesn't matter much.

Inaccurate

Insulating your CAI? (click here)

Snookynibbles

I Hate Cars is right...insulating the CAI pipe hardly matters. I recall reading on the AEM site (I think) that they used aluminum over materials having superior insluation properties because the velocity of the intake flow was too fast & the amount of air contacting the pipe wall so small that neither contributed to appreciable heating of the intake flow.

Also, I read a study once where the calcs of the amount of power gained by a cooler flow through the TB when doing a TB coolant bypass is practically nothing. The greatest significance of a bypass would be to keep the actual intake manifold cooler from reduced conduction coming from the TB.

However, insulators at both the TB & between the intake manifold & block keep the inake plenum cooler; the velocity of flow is less & the surface area of contact is greater there. One manufacturer of gaskets claims a 6.8 hp gain for a Gen 2 TL. Actually, these ratings are a bit misleading. Phenolic spacers don't add hp, they retard the loss of it by reducing the rate at which the intake heats up. Eventually all intake assemblies will heat up from conductive, convective, and radiating heat coming off the surrounding engine compartment components...from the block itself & the transmission for example.

erick3

^ yeah i hate cars is right...
after looking into the foil material, it just wasn't worth while...
the gaskets look promising though

on the contrary, i don't understand why my car seems to be the most effected by heat. it's normal, yes, but i doubt to the extent that i'm experiencing...
i thought o2 sensors had no affect on performance? (from previous post)...i still have that cel

NedShneebly

^Look at the brain on Brad!

Nicely done. You will be my new secret weapon when fighting the lobotimizing ramblings of Acura Jeff and Dave_B...

greco9885

iTrader: (1)

oil cooler

I hate cars

Trust me, I know exactly what you're going through. Mine is miserable to drive in the summer heat. If feels like it loses half it's hp.

erick3

at least you have your GN to fix the issue though lol

JwongTLS

put a spacer to lift up the hood a little??

if u know what I mean