Engine Damper?
#41
Search for the "NRG torque damper w/ custom bracket" from 04accordcpe on v 6 p. It should be a better upgrade than the TL damper and approximately the same cost shipped.
Please PM 04accordcpe if you are interested. I've been trying to get a hold of one myself; if enough people contact him, he'll get a new batch of the brackets made for our Accords/TLs.
Last edited by gwiffer; 12-10-2011 at 03:15 AM.
#43
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#45
Hey I just wanted to put in my 2 cents on the Vibration of the 3G TL engine. I own an 04 TL and I have spent a couple of years fighting Acura in this issue. when my TL is cold in the morning it shakes like crazy but when it warms up it goes away. but if I acclerate slowely at a surtain RPM I get the vibration. from all the research I have done and many TL's I have driven. All of them for the most part have the vibration. some more than others. I found out from a Honda Engineer and an experienced Acura Mechanic who builds engines that the reason for the vibration is that the J32A3 engine does not have a Balance shaft in the engine and this is why the engine have so many vibrations. Acura does not have a fix for it but they have corrected the problem on the newer engines. However they said it should not effect the reliability of the engine. I have had all my engine mounts replaced, my crankshaft pully replaced, all my Exhaust pipe hangers and some other components replaced and nothing helped. I don't think there is much else to be done. I don't have any problems with my car and I guess since I love my TL I have to live with the start up engine vibration. I hope this gives you some useful information thanks.
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jiggad369 (07-08-2012)
#46
With it in place, you are "limiting" movement in one spot only. This is called binding. When that happens, all the energy has to go somewhere. In the end, you will be asking your main mounts to resist the new axis of twist in the engine.....essentially turning them into torque mounts. They were not designed for that function. And it will also force your regular torque mounts to move in ways they weren't supposed to.
The best way to stiffen your engine mounts would be to make ALL of the existing torque mounts stiffer. This will limit movement without changing the axis of rotation.
If you already have one of these aftermarket things, then I wouldn't worry about it. Esspecially if your satisfied with it. But iff you have have problems with your motor mounts in the future, then you may want to think about getting rid of it.
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LowNstocK_UA6 (05-05-2020)
#47
When you replace all of the engine mounts w/ upgraded polyurethane mounts (Innovative, xlr8), you lose the vacuum assisted front mount. This mount, when working properly, minimizes the vibrations felt at idle.
BUT:
What if you kept your OEM front mount (or moved it to the rear) and replaced the other two engine mounts with the upgraded poly. Maybe Xrl8 or Innovative would come up with an upgraded tranny mount to complete the package. Maybe we are in need of any actual hydraulic/fluid-filled damper that is valved to resist the large torque forces/movements of the engine under heavy throttle, but not disrupt the operation of the vacuum mount at idle.
I think what we need is a custom valved hydraulic damper mounted to the front of the engine w/ the vacuum mount. It could be valved stiff on rebound to prevent the engine from rocking under heavy throttle, but be softly valved on compression so that it wouldn't affect idle vibrations.
BUT:
What if you kept your OEM front mount (or moved it to the rear) and replaced the other two engine mounts with the upgraded poly. Maybe Xrl8 or Innovative would come up with an upgraded tranny mount to complete the package. Maybe we are in need of any actual hydraulic/fluid-filled damper that is valved to resist the large torque forces/movements of the engine under heavy throttle, but not disrupt the operation of the vacuum mount at idle.
I think what we need is a custom valved hydraulic damper mounted to the front of the engine w/ the vacuum mount. It could be valved stiff on rebound to prevent the engine from rocking under heavy throttle, but be softly valved on compression so that it wouldn't affect idle vibrations.
#48
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iTrader: (3)
Just remember, this after market unit is not really a damper....it's a limiter.
With it in place, you are "limiting" movement in one spot only. This is called binding. When that happens, all the energy has to go somewhere. In the end, you will be asking your main mounts to resist the new axis of twist in the engine.....essentially turning them into torque mounts. They were not designed for that function. And it will also force your regular torque mounts to move in ways they weren't supposed to.
The best way to stiffen your engine mounts would be to make ALL of the existing torque mounts stiffer. This will limit movement without changing the axis of rotation.
If you already have one of these aftermarket things, then I wouldn't worry about it. Esspecially if your satisfied with it. But iff you have have problems with your motor mounts in the future, then you may want to think about getting rid of it.
With it in place, you are "limiting" movement in one spot only. This is called binding. When that happens, all the energy has to go somewhere. In the end, you will be asking your main mounts to resist the new axis of twist in the engine.....essentially turning them into torque mounts. They were not designed for that function. And it will also force your regular torque mounts to move in ways they weren't supposed to.
The best way to stiffen your engine mounts would be to make ALL of the existing torque mounts stiffer. This will limit movement without changing the axis of rotation.
If you already have one of these aftermarket things, then I wouldn't worry about it. Esspecially if your satisfied with it. But iff you have have problems with your motor mounts in the future, then you may want to think about getting rid of it.
When you replace all of the engine mounts w/ upgraded polyurethane mounts (Innovative, xlr8), you lose the vacuum assisted front mount. This mount, when working properly, minimizes the vibrations felt at idle.
BUT:
What if you kept your OEM front mount (or moved it to the rear) and replaced the other two engine mounts with the upgraded poly. Maybe Xrl8 or Innovative would come up with an upgraded tranny mount to complete the package. Maybe we are in need of any actual hydraulic/fluid-filled damper that is valved to resist the large torque forces/movements of the engine under heavy throttle, but not disrupt the operation of the vacuum mount at idle.
I think what we need is a custom valved hydraulic damper mounted to the front of the engine w/ the vacuum mount. It could be valved stiff on rebound to prevent the engine from rocking under heavy throttle, but be softly valved on compression so that it wouldn't affect idle vibrations.
BUT:
What if you kept your OEM front mount (or moved it to the rear) and replaced the other two engine mounts with the upgraded poly. Maybe Xrl8 or Innovative would come up with an upgraded tranny mount to complete the package. Maybe we are in need of any actual hydraulic/fluid-filled damper that is valved to resist the large torque forces/movements of the engine under heavy throttle, but not disrupt the operation of the vacuum mount at idle.
I think what we need is a custom valved hydraulic damper mounted to the front of the engine w/ the vacuum mount. It could be valved stiff on rebound to prevent the engine from rocking under heavy throttle, but be softly valved on compression so that it wouldn't affect idle vibrations.
#49
Since the 6MT already has something, be it a hydraulic or not, then the placement has already been engineered by Honda. So in either case the damper can go to it's limits and have the same results. I suppose it could then cause things to twist in ways in wouldn't normally do but I wonder which is worse? Twisting with no limit or with something like a elastomer damper in place. Is the answer is to have mounts that limit the movement for 90% of the time and then just have the extra damper appropriately sized for that 10% of the time that you'll really need it.
Of course this is all speculation as we have no idea if the OEM damper is hydraulic or what.
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