Effect of Nitrous On TL
10-19-2005, 06:46 PM
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Youse Gots Sacked
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Effect of Nitrous On TL
i don't plan to put nitrous in my TL...but i was reading on HowStuffWorks.com about Nitrous Oxide.
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question259.htm
and i don't quite understand why Nitrous is bad for the engine. doesn't it do the same thing that a turbo does by putting more air into each cylinder and it gives u more power from the greater combustion?
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question259.htm
and i don't quite understand why Nitrous is bad for the engine. doesn't it do the same thing that a turbo does by putting more air into each cylinder and it gives u more power from the greater combustion?
10-19-2005, 08:00 PM
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someone correct me if i'm wrong, but i think it's how N2O gas burns, I think it burns hotter which causes abnormal wear, more-so than a Turbo or S/C because all they are doing is adding more O2
10-19-2005, 08:24 PM
#3
If it's set up properly, then nitrous isn't bad at all.
The problem comes when people just strap on a bottle and go happy on the gas. Nitrous delivers more air, just like turbocharger and supercharger, which is why it's also considered a form of forced induction... and just like other kinds of forced induction, you need to get it tuned to deliver the proper amount of air and fuel for good combustion.
The problem comes when people just strap on a bottle and go happy on the gas. Nitrous delivers more air, just like turbocharger and supercharger, which is why it's also considered a form of forced induction... and just like other kinds of forced induction, you need to get it tuned to deliver the proper amount of air and fuel for good combustion.
10-20-2005, 12:21 AM
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Correct. Reason being NOS adds an irresponsible amount of HP instantly. For example, a 200 shot nos, the kit being around 300-400 dollars, with a few more dollars for a full tanks of No2 add 200 horsepower instantly, with no regard to emission, whereas turbo/super-charger add around 15-25% hp, most of the time less, and cost upwards to 7000 dollars, AND meets emission standards. It's quite obvious why NOS would be considered illegal and turbo/super-chargers arn't.
10-20-2005, 12:24 AM
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i went down to a local car shop recently looking at installing nos in my tL and he told me in order for it to be safe to run that i need to change my fuel mamagement system. has anyone nos their 3rd gen? or kno if what he said was true.
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10-20-2005, 09:15 AM
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Originally Posted by NFLblitze1
i don't plan to put nitrous in my TL...but i was reading on HowStuffWorks.com about Nitrous Oxide.
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question259.htm
and i don't quite understand why Nitrous is bad for the engine. doesn't it do the same thing that a turbo does by putting more air into each cylinder and it gives u more power from the greater combustion?
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/question259.htm
and i don't quite understand why Nitrous is bad for the engine. doesn't it do the same thing that a turbo does by putting more air into each cylinder and it gives u more power from the greater combustion?
Yes, if Nitrous Oxide is used correctly, it can make our TL extremely fast. The problem isn't the product itself, it's the user/driver. Many drivers tend to spray too much too quickly and end up catching the vehicle on fire.
If you want to learn how to properly use NOS, you should really learn the pros and cons, research more before you actually try to race with it.
My friend LJ has a nice NOS system set up in his S2000 and it works like a charm for him.
10-20-2005, 02:02 PM
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lol...actually....i was playing Need For Speed...thats what inspired me to look up nitrous on howstuffworks....
thanks guys for ur responses.....but i have one more question.....if NOS is illegal....why is it legal to sell it? is it illegal to USE it? but its legal to HAVE IT....or does it need to be regulated, wheras you need certain provisions...
thanks guys for ur responses.....but i have one more question.....if NOS is illegal....why is it legal to sell it? is it illegal to USE it? but its legal to HAVE IT....or does it need to be regulated, wheras you need certain provisions...
10-20-2005, 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by NFLblitze1
lol...actually....i was playing Need For Speed...thats what inspired me to look up nitrous on howstuffworks....
thanks guys for ur responses.....but i have one more question.....if NOS is illegal....why is it legal to sell it? is it illegal to USE it? but its legal to HAVE IT....or does it need to be regulated, wheras you need certain provisions...
thanks guys for ur responses.....but i have one more question.....if NOS is illegal....why is it legal to sell it? is it illegal to USE it? but its legal to HAVE IT....or does it need to be regulated, wheras you need certain provisions...
That's how I look at it at least.
10-20-2005, 08:27 PM
#15
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Nitros does not add any more "air" to an engine. A blower does.
Nitros is injected into the intake stream. What it does is increase the percentage of oxygen per cubic foot of atmospheric air drawn into the engine. You probably already know that the normal concentration of oxygen at sea level is around 20%. By increasing the concentration of oxygen in the cylinders, a hotter burn takes place. This increases pressure on the piston which, in turn, produces more power. The down side is the increased amount of heat is hard on valves. And if the "shot" is too high, pistons can be burned, rods and bearings damage, and just a mess in general.
Nitros is injected into the intake stream. What it does is increase the percentage of oxygen per cubic foot of atmospheric air drawn into the engine. You probably already know that the normal concentration of oxygen at sea level is around 20%. By increasing the concentration of oxygen in the cylinders, a hotter burn takes place. This increases pressure on the piston which, in turn, produces more power. The down side is the increased amount of heat is hard on valves. And if the "shot" is too high, pistons can be burned, rods and bearings damage, and just a mess in general.
10-20-2005, 09:00 PM
#16
2004 SSM/EB/5AT/Navi/RSB
Is there something magical about the way NOS gets more oxygen involved? Wouldn't blasting pure oxygen into the intake accomplish the same result? I supposed I should read that HSW article as I've always been curious about this.
10-21-2005, 12:26 PM
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i saw a video on StreetFire.net where these guys used a LEAFBLOWER and put it into the intake and dyno'd it and it gained like 20HP...then they spray nitrous into the fan of the leafblower and gained another 10HP...sounds like a good mod...LOL....but yea..ill see if i can find the video
10-23-2005, 01:59 PM
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This thread is lacking some base tech content, let's get that going:
2 kinds of nitrous kits:
Dry: Nitrous is injected (typically before MAF), and in like an LS1 kit, the MAF will compensate by having the pcm add fuel.
Wet: Nitrous and fuel are injected between the MAF and the TB. Pre-set ratios based on plug size.
How many wet nitrous can you spray with stock fuel pump?
-Depends on each car?
How much dry nitrous can you spray?
-Depends on the size of the stock fuel injectors and the stock fuel pump.
Rule of thumb, probably anything over a 75 or a 100 shot is probaby risky with the stock fuel pump of a car like ours. You'd have to try it on the dyno and see how the A/F (air fuel) ratio looks.
Rule of thumb, also remove 2 degrees of timing for every 100 shot of nitrous.
Rule of thumb, one step colder plugs are a good idea to handle the extra heat
Rule of thumb, never spray below 4000 rpms, you need the engine turning otherwise the mixture can puddle and that can lead to a backfire. Many will use window switches. Nitrous can't come one below a certain rpm.
Rule of thumb, a wet kit will need a bottle warmer since the fuel/nitrous ratio has been predetermined by the nitrous and fuel jets/pills. All nitrous kits are rated for performance say at 1000 psi bottle pressure, so all may need a bottle warmer kit so you see optimal performance.
Rule of thumb, bottle warmers pull a lot of voltage, so leave the car running or you will run your battery down.
Rule of thumb, nitrous purges are used to get the air out of the line so it hits immediately.
Rule of thumb, hitting nitrous later in a track run will probaby increase mph quite a bit but not do much for the ET. Hitting the nitrous off the line with street radials might result in a lot of spin so it's probably going to be heard to hit a 100 shot off the line without drag radials.
2 kinds of nitrous kits:
Dry: Nitrous is injected (typically before MAF), and in like an LS1 kit, the MAF will compensate by having the pcm add fuel.
Wet: Nitrous and fuel are injected between the MAF and the TB. Pre-set ratios based on plug size.
How many wet nitrous can you spray with stock fuel pump?
-Depends on each car?
How much dry nitrous can you spray?
-Depends on the size of the stock fuel injectors and the stock fuel pump.
Rule of thumb, probably anything over a 75 or a 100 shot is probaby risky with the stock fuel pump of a car like ours. You'd have to try it on the dyno and see how the A/F (air fuel) ratio looks.
Rule of thumb, also remove 2 degrees of timing for every 100 shot of nitrous.
Rule of thumb, one step colder plugs are a good idea to handle the extra heat
Rule of thumb, never spray below 4000 rpms, you need the engine turning otherwise the mixture can puddle and that can lead to a backfire. Many will use window switches. Nitrous can't come one below a certain rpm.
Rule of thumb, a wet kit will need a bottle warmer since the fuel/nitrous ratio has been predetermined by the nitrous and fuel jets/pills. All nitrous kits are rated for performance say at 1000 psi bottle pressure, so all may need a bottle warmer kit so you see optimal performance.
Rule of thumb, bottle warmers pull a lot of voltage, so leave the car running or you will run your battery down.
Rule of thumb, nitrous purges are used to get the air out of the line so it hits immediately.
Rule of thumb, hitting nitrous later in a track run will probaby increase mph quite a bit but not do much for the ET. Hitting the nitrous off the line with street radials might result in a lot of spin so it's probably going to be heard to hit a 100 shot off the line without drag radials.
10-23-2005, 02:47 PM
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when a nitrous shot is administered....is it a certain amount of nitrous that gets sprayed? or is it how long u hold down the button..thats how much gets sprayed.
11-02-2005, 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by NFLblitze1
when a nitrous shot is administered....is it a certain amount of nitrous that gets sprayed? or is it how long u hold down the button..thats how much gets sprayed.
On most cheap setups it usually @ WOT or with a button.
11-02-2005, 07:19 PM
#25
Originally Posted by NFLblitze1
what is a direct port setup?
Direct port sprays directly into each cylinder, so each one is getting the same amount of nitrous. Of course, it is more complicated and more expensive.
11-02-2005, 07:28 PM
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This is a direct port system. Where you control the amount of nitrous going into each cylinder. Price $800+
And this is a single fogger set up. Where you just shoot nitrous and pray that one cylinder doesn't consume too much nitrous. If you stay within a moderate range you really don't have to worry about that though (40-75hp shot).
Price $3-500.
11-02-2005, 07:41 PM
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NOS should only be run for a MAX of 10-15 sec, depending on shot and tune of the car. You should be on a dyno testing the a/f when you hit the nos to see the effects and if your a/f is ok. Also, the reason NOS is very hard on an engine, any engine, is that your extra HP, no matter the shot, is instant, so that block has to absorb an instant X amount of HP. A turbo, supercharger, builds that HP increase creating less stress. But, NOS is the cheapest way to get HP and the quickest way to an engine rebuild. I have a video of a guy blowing his entire top end off on the first shot on the dyno test!!
11-10-2005, 08:00 AM
#29
41 43 55 52 41 20 54 4C
Something people also need to consider... if you've got an auto, I'd be wary of adding very much hp/tq at all... I had a 100shot (wet) on a 1998 Blazer, it had 190hp/250ft-lbs stock... so add about 100 to each of those... After about... maybe 40-50 bottles (maybe about 8-10 runs per bottle if I remember right), the transmission had to be rebuilt, and I even had the spray ‘off’ right before and during when it would do a gear change. 
also something to note... 50 refills will run about 1500-1800ish... add in the initial cost of the kit of 400-600... in the long haul (more like 100refills), an SC would be cheaper and "maybe" a little easier on the engine.
If anyone* wants to try something cool and see the effects of nitrous on something "burning" first hand... this is something I did when I had a regulator on the tank and it was in my apartment back in college... (well, this is 'one' of the things I did with it) I had a stick of incense burning (for those of you that don't know, it burns just with a 'glow', i.e. you light the tip then blow it out and it slowly smolders the rest of the way). Well, I took the little hose that I had and put a slow stream (very slow, like the stream out of your mouth when blowing on a spoonful of hot soup) of the nitrous on the incense stick, aiming the stream "down" the stick towards the base of it... when I did this, it flared up a good bit and it lit the whole entire stick after only a second or two. I had an oxygen tank (also with a regulator) too, and as expected, a similar effect happens with a very slow stream of O2. Another cool thing... when smoking from a 'water pipe' if you spray a slow stream of N2O on the burning 'material' while slowly inhaling, it yields a much better burn... and, you might get a tiny bit of nitrous inhaled too (all though more than likely, most the N2O has broken down to separate nitrogen and oxygen molecules, with most the oxygen getting used up.) Please do not lecture about the sulfur dioxide mixed with the N2O... that... well, that's another story...
*Disclaimer: There are a several nuances involved in putting a regulator on an automotive N2O tank. I do not recommend that anyone attempt anything I have discussed. It's not as easy as connecting a regulator right to the tank. Don't forget auto nitrous tanks have a pick-up tube in them, as well as the connector on the valve itself has small 'hole' on the bottom side of it which would prevent the connection of a regulator to the valve. In addition, automotive nitrous contains sulfur dioxide at ~100ppm.
also something to note... 50 refills will run about 1500-1800ish... add in the initial cost of the kit of 400-600... in the long haul (more like 100refills), an SC would be cheaper and "maybe" a little easier on the engine.
If anyone* wants to try something cool and see the effects of nitrous on something "burning" first hand... this is something I did when I had a regulator on the tank and it was in my apartment back in college... (well, this is 'one' of the things I did with it
) I had a stick of incense burning (for those of you that don't know, it burns just with a 'glow', i.e. you light the tip then blow it out and it slowly smolders the rest of the way). Well, I took the little hose that I had and put a slow stream (very slow, like the stream out of your mouth when blowing on a spoonful of hot soup) of the nitrous on the incense stick, aiming the stream "down" the stick towards the base of it... when I did this, it flared up a good bit and it lit the whole entire stick after only a second or two. I had an oxygen tank (also with a regulator) too, and as expected, a similar effect happens with a very slow stream of O2. Another cool thing... when smoking from a 'water pipe' if you spray a slow stream of N2O on the burning 'material' while slowly inhaling, it yields a much better burn... and, you might get a tiny bit of nitrous inhaled too (all though more than likely, most the N2O has broken down to separate nitrogen and oxygen molecules, with most the oxygen getting used up.) Please do not lecture about the sulfur dioxide mixed with the N2O... that... well, that's another story... *Disclaimer: There are a several nuances involved in putting a regulator on an automotive N2O tank. I do not recommend that anyone attempt anything I have discussed. It's not as easy as connecting a regulator right to the tank. Don't forget auto nitrous tanks have a pick-up tube in them, as well as the connector on the valve itself has small 'hole' on the bottom side of it which would prevent the connection of a regulator to the valve. In addition, automotive nitrous contains sulfur dioxide at ~100ppm.
05-16-2006, 10:03 PM
#30
I have had nitrous on 4 vehicles. I can tell you that it is by far the safest of the power adders when you follow the directions. A 75 horsepower shot is a joke and our car could take it all day without any issues at all. In fact I believe our cars are built stronger that you all may believe. Nitrous makes more power because it introduces more oxygen into the combustion process. The same is the goal of blowers and turbos although nitrous doesn't heat up the air entering the engine like a supercharger and turbo can. I had a Paxton Novi 2000 blower which is insane and capable of 30 psi and about 1200 horsepower and at 14 lbs of boost the temp of the air going into the motor was so hot you couldn't touch the tube going into the throttle body. Also it takes 30-60 horsepower just to spin the blower. I've seen crankshafts break in half from the strain of the blower belt at high tension levels needed to keep the belt from slipping. Turbos are amazing but you need some serious fuel management. Also on a hot day the car with the blower needed timing to be retarted to prevent pinging and detonation. Bottom line. Nitrous is the least likely to cause damage because it is so cold it is the least likely to detonate and since a wet system has the correct amount of fuel mixed with it, you never have to worry about it being lean. If anything you have to worry about it being rich, a common condition when there isn't enough pressure in the bottle because its too cool. When you hit the button you are never going to sell me on that its tough on the motor because a 50-75 shot is so wimpy. It just feels like the motor "woke up" Now a 175-250 shot puts some serious instant power down and yet I have seen countless friends run this much in STOCK 5.0 liter mustangs for a lot longer than we ever expected the motors to last. A 75 shot wouldn't have even been worth getting excited about, never mind worried. The most important thing is making sure your fuel pump can keep up with the shot you want to run and that your plugs are 1 range colder. ANYTHING under 100 hp in our cars will be fine. But be forwarned. The most dangerous part about nitrous is how addictive it becomes. By the way, I think the supercharger for our cars is a joke. 60 rear wheel for 4000-5000 dollars. For 5k it should make 150 more horsepower. Turbos and nitrous rock. Superchargers are only useful when intercooled or else the boost levels have to be low. This is why very few cars come with superchargers and if they do, they're intercooled. Hats off to my friend Mike who has a 94 mustang that is completely streetable, looks nearly stock, sounds only slightly modified and runs 9.2 seconds at 160 mph in the quarter mile. You have no idea how hard it was to tune that fuel management. Jobe Spetter from Turbo People in New England is amazing. My buddy Josh just installed Nitrous Express 75 shot on his 2nd gen TL. Believe me, he hasn't stopped smiling yet...
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05-16-2006, 10:58 PM
#31
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^holy shit dude, I bet you have a lot of good information in this post (unlike the one in the 5at=6mt thread) but how about trying to press ENTER ever five or six sentances. its such a pain in the ass to read. You seem to know what you are talking about, please make it easy on the eyes.
05-17-2006, 03:48 AM
#32
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Originally Posted by SouthernBoy
Nitros does not add any more "air" to an engine. A blower does.
Nitros is injected into the intake stream. What it does is increase the percentage of oxygen per cubic foot of atmospheric air drawn into the engine. You probably already know that the normal concentration of oxygen at sea level is around 20%. By increasing the concentration of oxygen in the cylinders, a hotter burn takes place. This increases pressure on the piston which, in turn, produces more power. The down side is the increased amount of heat is hard on valves. And if the "shot" is too high, pistons can be burned, rods and bearings damage, and just a mess in general.
Nitros is injected into the intake stream. What it does is increase the percentage of oxygen per cubic foot of atmospheric air drawn into the engine. You probably already know that the normal concentration of oxygen at sea level is around 20%. By increasing the concentration of oxygen in the cylinders, a hotter burn takes place. This increases pressure on the piston which, in turn, produces more power. The down side is the increased amount of heat is hard on valves. And if the "shot" is too high, pistons can be burned, rods and bearings damage, and just a mess in general.
This is true. Normal atmospheric O2 is roughly 21% and Nitrogen is roughly 78%. Assuming sea level pressure of 760 torr and exluding water vapor, you should have a O2 particle tension of about 120 torr (guess med school was useful haha).
When you dump nitrous and it disssociates at 570 degrees F, it dumps 1 molecule of nitrogen and 1 molecule of oxygen (O2). That increases the fraction of O2 or the O2 concentration. Of course it's not getting anywhere near pure O2. Pure O2 and fire is pretty much what puts the Space Shuttle into orbit
Nitrous also has the secondary effect in that when it splits it cools the air (since it draws energy to break the bonds) and thereby makes the intake air cooler. Cooler air = denser air = higher compression = more power (I think that's right).
Maybe somebody who actually knows some physics (ME) could spit out some numbers on how dense (torr) the air becomes in the chamber.
05-18-2006, 11:41 AM
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Thats right. Its also the reason why alot of people change their supercharger pulleys during the winter. The supercharger is pushing the same amount of air, but the colder air is denser and can effectively cause knock in the engine. One of the biggest flaws I've seen people do when running nitrous systems is not upgrading their fuel system to compensate for the extra oxygen during combustion. I have upgraded injectors on the GTP to run a 75 shot, and its really not the end all, but it picks up some good time in the 1/4 (like a few tenths).
A dry 50 shot works on almost any car in which the ECU is actually working and the fuel system isn't maxed out stock.
A dry 50 shot works on almost any car in which the ECU is actually working and the fuel system isn't maxed out stock.
05-21-2006, 05:11 PM
#34
as fun as this thread is, you're all forgetting we're talking FWD here...so don't get too carried away, it has it's limitations and we're close enough as it is on 3Gs
037
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05-22-2006, 02:27 PM
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Limitations? You guys haven't even broken into the mid 13s yet. The FWD GTP community has cars in the 9s, and some of the cars running 11s have bolt-on turbo kits. Torque steer can be a bitch, but LSDs are handy with that. Then again, most of you guys aren't looking to make the TL into a drag car, but it wouldn't hurt to run 12s on a DD.
06-07-2006, 04:54 PM
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NNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAWWSSS.
Please stop calling it NOS. I know the new fast and the furious movie is coming out soon, but please, just stop the insanity.
Nitrous is perfectly safe if your air to fuel ratio is managed, and you arent stupid with it, such as hitting it below 3K rpm, doing 30-45 second 4th and 5th gear hwy runs, hitting your rev/fuel limiter, etc. Another option if you want to install a Nitrous system and have a greater safety net is to use a step colder spark plugs, and/or cut your 91-93 octane with a few gallons of 100 octane unleaded race fuel. This will give you greater protection against detonation.
Please stop calling it NOS. I know the new fast and the furious movie is coming out soon, but please, just stop the insanity.
Nitrous is perfectly safe if your air to fuel ratio is managed, and you arent stupid with it, such as hitting it below 3K rpm, doing 30-45 second 4th and 5th gear hwy runs, hitting your rev/fuel limiter, etc. Another option if you want to install a Nitrous system and have a greater safety net is to use a step colder spark plugs, and/or cut your 91-93 octane with a few gallons of 100 octane unleaded race fuel. This will give you greater protection against detonation.
10-24-2007, 02:01 AM
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Originally Posted by photopro30
I have had nitrous on 4 vehicles. I can tell you that it is by far the safest of the power adders when you follow the directions. A 75 horsepower shot is a joke and our car could take it all day without any issues at all. In fact I believe our cars are built stronger that you all may believe. Nitrous makes more power because it introduces more oxygen into the combustion process. The same is the goal of blowers and turbos although nitrous doesn't heat up the air entering the engine like a supercharger and turbo can. I had a Paxton Novi 2000 blower which is insane and capable of 30 psi and about 1200 horsepower and at 14 lbs of boost the temp of the air going into the motor was so hot you couldn't touch the tube going into the throttle body. Also it takes 30-60 horsepower just to spin the blower. I've seen crankshafts break in half from the strain of the blower belt at high tension levels needed to keep the belt from slipping. Turbos are amazing but you need some serious fuel management. Also on a hot day the car with the blower needed timing to be retarted to prevent pinging and detonation. Bottom line. Nitrous is the least likely to cause damage because it is so cold it is the least likely to detonate and since a wet system has the correct amount of fuel mixed with it, you never have to worry about it being lean. If anything you have to worry about it being rich, a common condition when there isn't enough pressure in the bottle because its too cool. When you hit the button you are never going to sell me on that its tough on the motor because a 50-75 shot is so wimpy. It just feels like the motor "woke up" Now a 175-250 shot puts some serious instant power down and yet I have seen countless friends run this much in STOCK 5.0 liter mustangs for a lot longer than we ever expected the motors to last. A 75 shot wouldn't have even been worth getting excited about, never mind worried. The most important thing is making sure your fuel pump can keep up with the shot you want to run and that your plugs are 1 range colder. ANYTHING under 100 hp in our cars will be fine. But be forwarned. The most dangerous part about nitrous is how addictive it becomes. By the way, I think the supercharger for our cars is a joke. 60 rear wheel for 4000-5000 dollars. For 5k it should make 150 more horsepower. Turbos and nitrous rock. Superchargers are only useful when intercooled or else the boost levels have to be low. This is why very few cars come with superchargers and if they do, they're intercooled. Hats off to my friend Mike who has a 94 mustang that is completely streetable, looks nearly stock, sounds only slightly modified and runs 9.2 seconds at 160 mph in the quarter mile. You have no idea how hard it was to tune that fuel management. Jobe Spetter from Turbo People in New England is amazing. My buddy Josh just installed Nitrous Express 75 shot on his 2nd gen TL. Believe me, he hasn't stopped smiling yet...
10-24-2007, 02:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Chester
NNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA AAAAAAAAAAWWSSS.
Please stop calling it NOS. I know the new fast and the furious movie is coming out soon, but please, just stop the insanity.
Nitrous is perfectly safe if your air to fuel ratio is managed, and you arent stupid with it, such as hitting it below 3K rpm, doing 30-45 second 4th and 5th gear hwy runs, hitting your rev/fuel limiter, etc. Another option if you want to install a Nitrous system and have a greater safety net is to use a step colder spark plugs, and/or cut your 91-93 octane with a few gallons of 100 octane unleaded race fuel. This will give you greater protection against detonation.
Please stop calling it NOS. I know the new fast and the furious movie is coming out soon, but please, just stop the insanity.
Nitrous is perfectly safe if your air to fuel ratio is managed, and you arent stupid with it, such as hitting it below 3K rpm, doing 30-45 second 4th and 5th gear hwy runs, hitting your rev/fuel limiter, etc. Another option if you want to install a Nitrous system and have a greater safety net is to use a step colder spark plugs, and/or cut your 91-93 octane with a few gallons of 100 octane unleaded race fuel. This will give you greater protection against detonation.
10-25-2007, 12:10 AM
#39
2006 TL-S.C. 6mt
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Age: 42
Posts: 444
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i had a 50 shot on my 2003 type S. I had it set to only activate when i flipped a switch AND floored it. Car ran a 14.45 with just NOS and headers. didnt use it too often but when i did i went nuts. and i saw no damage or felt any with the car...tho i only had her for aboot a year and traded it for my current night rider
10-25-2007, 08:37 AM
#40
Originally Posted by photopro30
I have had nitrous on 4 vehicles. I can tell you that it is by far the safest of the power adders when you follow the directions.
A 75 horsepower shot is a joke and our car could take it all day without any issues at all. In fact I believe our cars are built stronger that you all may believe.
Nitrous makes more power because it introduces more oxygen into the combustion process. The same is the goal of blowers and turbos although nitrous doesn't heat up the air entering the engine like a supercharger and turbo can. I had a Paxton Novi 2000 blower which is insane and capable of 30 psi and about 1200 horsepower and at 14 lbs of boost the temp of the air going into the motor was so hot you couldn't touch the tube going into the throttle body.
Also it takes 30-60 horsepower just to spin the blower. I've seen crankshafts break in half from the strain of the blower belt at high tension levels needed to keep the belt from slipping. Turbos are amazing but you need some serious fuel management. Also on a hot day the car with the blower needed timing to be retarted to prevent pinging and detonation.
Bottom line. Nitrous is the least likely to cause damage because it is so cold it is the least likely to detonate and since a wet system has the correct amount of fuel mixed with it, you never have to worry about it being lean. If anything you have to worry about it being rich, a common condition when there isn't enough pressure in the bottle because its too cool. When you hit the button you are never going to sell me on that its tough on the motor because a 50-75 shot is so wimpy. It just feels like the motor "woke up".
Now a 175-250 shot puts some serious instant power down and yet I have seen countless friends run this much in STOCK 5.0 liter mustangs for a lot longer than we ever expected the motors to last. A 75 shot wouldn't have even been worth getting excited about, never mind worried.
The most important thing is making sure your fuel pump can keep up with the shot you want to run and that your plugs are 1 range colder. ANYTHING under 100 hp in our cars will be fine. But be forwarned. The most dangerous part about nitrous is how addictive it becomes.
By the way, I think the supercharger for our cars is a joke. 60 rear wheel for 4000-5000 dollars. For 5k it should make 150 more horsepower. Turbos and nitrous rock. Superchargers are only useful when intercooled or else the boost levels have to be low. This is why very few cars come with superchargers and if they do, they're intercooled.
Hats off to my friend Mike who has a 94 mustang that is completely streetable, looks nearly stock, sounds only slightly modified and runs 9.2 seconds at 160 mph in the quarter mile. You have no idea how hard it was to tune that fuel management. Jobe Spetter from Turbo People in New England is amazing.
My buddy Josh just installed Nitrous Express 75 shot on his 2nd gen TL. Believe me, he hasn't stopped smiling yet...
A 75 horsepower shot is a joke and our car could take it all day without any issues at all. In fact I believe our cars are built stronger that you all may believe.
Nitrous makes more power because it introduces more oxygen into the combustion process. The same is the goal of blowers and turbos although nitrous doesn't heat up the air entering the engine like a supercharger and turbo can. I had a Paxton Novi 2000 blower which is insane and capable of 30 psi and about 1200 horsepower and at 14 lbs of boost the temp of the air going into the motor was so hot you couldn't touch the tube going into the throttle body.
Also it takes 30-60 horsepower just to spin the blower. I've seen crankshafts break in half from the strain of the blower belt at high tension levels needed to keep the belt from slipping. Turbos are amazing but you need some serious fuel management. Also on a hot day the car with the blower needed timing to be retarted to prevent pinging and detonation.
Bottom line. Nitrous is the least likely to cause damage because it is so cold it is the least likely to detonate and since a wet system has the correct amount of fuel mixed with it, you never have to worry about it being lean. If anything you have to worry about it being rich, a common condition when there isn't enough pressure in the bottle because its too cool. When you hit the button you are never going to sell me on that its tough on the motor because a 50-75 shot is so wimpy. It just feels like the motor "woke up".
Now a 175-250 shot puts some serious instant power down and yet I have seen countless friends run this much in STOCK 5.0 liter mustangs for a lot longer than we ever expected the motors to last. A 75 shot wouldn't have even been worth getting excited about, never mind worried.
The most important thing is making sure your fuel pump can keep up with the shot you want to run and that your plugs are 1 range colder. ANYTHING under 100 hp in our cars will be fine. But be forwarned. The most dangerous part about nitrous is how addictive it becomes.
By the way, I think the supercharger for our cars is a joke. 60 rear wheel for 4000-5000 dollars. For 5k it should make 150 more horsepower. Turbos and nitrous rock. Superchargers are only useful when intercooled or else the boost levels have to be low. This is why very few cars come with superchargers and if they do, they're intercooled.
Hats off to my friend Mike who has a 94 mustang that is completely streetable, looks nearly stock, sounds only slightly modified and runs 9.2 seconds at 160 mph in the quarter mile. You have no idea how hard it was to tune that fuel management. Jobe Spetter from Turbo People in New England is amazing.
My buddy Josh just installed Nitrous Express 75 shot on his 2nd gen TL. Believe me, he hasn't stopped smiling yet...
For some reason there is a disdain among import drivers that nitrous is dangerous. Not sure why, I've seen WAY more people destroy the ring lands on their turbo car than nitrous cause damage. It's all about tuning, as with any power adder. I think the worst part about ntirous may be the instant "torque spike" as it adds a LOT of torque very low in the rpm range.
Just as Pro Stock John's rules mentioned, if you follow them, you'll have no problems. I ran a 150 shot on my LT1, while everyone swears that cast pistons are junk, it hit like the man and ran like a mofo.
We had everything set correctly for the gas though, a Mallory 685 box is probably the best setup. Use a WOT switch, along with a window switch (built into the Mallory box) and have it pull some timing (Mallory box) and colder plugs, you have no problems. My LT1 was also making over 100 RWHP more than stock on motor, so it was making right around 500 RWHP.
The only thing that has prevented me from putting gas on my TL is the drive by wire. I don't have a spare kit right now anywho, but I want assurance that it is WOT before I spray. That can kill a motor too, spraying at part throttle. I've seen rods BENT from it before. Car still ran though, lol.