Dyno results
Whoah! That seems unusually high!
Care to explain in detail what mods you have done?
What exactly do you mean by semi exhaust?
What type of dyno was used?
Are you AT or 6spd?
I hope i dont sound negative but it jsut seems a lot higher than normal.
But if you got 287whp wow congrats thats amazing for minor mods.
Care to explain in detail what mods you have done?
What exactly do you mean by semi exhaust?
What type of dyno was used?
Are you AT or 6spd?
I hope i dont sound negative but it jsut seems a lot higher than normal.
But if you got 287whp wow congrats thats amazing for minor mods.
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Whoah! That seems unusually high!
Care to explain in detail what mods you have done?
What exactly do you mean by semi exhaust?
What type of dyno was used?
Are you AT or 6spd?
I hope i dont sound negative but it jsut seems a lot higher than normal.
But if you got 287whp wow congrats thats amazing for minor mods.
Care to explain in detail what mods you have done?
What exactly do you mean by semi exhaust?
What type of dyno was used?
Are you AT or 6spd?
I hope i dont sound negative but it jsut seems a lot higher than normal.
But if you got 287whp wow congrats thats amazing for minor mods.
All motor
Joined: Sep 2008
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From: Long Island
Very nice numbers. Those do seem high with just intake and "semi-exhaust." But when you take into account the UR pulley and tune as well, it seems more believable. Still seems somewhat high, but it is on a Dynojet. Fukc the horsepower numbers look at the torque numbers! 
That threw me off.
That threw me off.
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Very nice numbers. Those do seem high with just intake and "semi-exhaust." But when you take into account the UR pulley and tune as well, it seems more believable. Still seems somewhat high, but it is on a Dynojet. Fukc the horsepower numbers look at the torque numbers! That threw me off.
That threw me off.hes just great at what he does ....
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Tune? Doubtful.
Semi-exhaust? .00001 HP gained.
CAI? Questionable.
Only possible scenario is at the crank.
What gear did you have this dyno on?
I'm 99% you didn't get 287 WHP.
Semi-exhaust? .00001 HP gained.
CAI? Questionable.
Only possible scenario is at the crank.
What gear did you have this dyno on?
I'm 99% you didn't get 287 WHP.
Last edited by TheChamp531; Oct 20, 2009 at 05:47 PM.
Three Wheelin'
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From: NYC
bud, this may seem like ppl may be jealous based on their responses, but anyone here will vouch for what im about to tell you...
im gonna start with this...
I dont care how good your tuner is, i dont care if his name is Albert Einstein...your car does not make 287WHP 265 Torque,
and i dont care what external botl-ons you have either...
But since you listed your mods...you dont even have full exhaust, and all i wanna do is laugh at your "tuner"
and by the way, being good at tuning cars has nothing to do with a dyno reading and giving inaccurate numbers!
so again..those numbers are wrong, and i think you fail to realize that you just pulled the stock crank HP to the wheels, with an overrated, overestimated CAI and a less than half-assed exhaust...
which in fact, with your exhaust mod, i could put a dent on the exhaust and make more power than removing the 3rd cat and pre-muffler.... now your APEXI NEO comes into question, and that's like saying...you just pretty much literally made about 330 Crank HP and 300 trq on a stock motor! And I stress stock, because with those mods, you could've just lost a few lug nuts on your front wheels and make more power than the CAI and the exhaust Mod
Everyone else seems afraid to disagree and question the authenticity of this, but that's just not my case. And that's not to say you're lying, you're just made to believe the wrong things.
The tuner's 900 whp, 8 sec civic doesnt justify anything whatsoever, so i dont know why you threw that in there...as if it's meant to convince me that your numbers are correct.
Doing the right stuff, you can make shit loads of power, but some things dont make the claimed difference, and certain things need to be done to accomplish "CERTAIN" things.
im gonna start with this...
I dont care how good your tuner is, i dont care if his name is Albert Einstein...your car does not make 287WHP 265 Torque,
and i dont care what external botl-ons you have either...
But since you listed your mods...you dont even have full exhaust, and all i wanna do is laugh at your "tuner"
and by the way, being good at tuning cars has nothing to do with a dyno reading and giving inaccurate numbers!
so again..those numbers are wrong, and i think you fail to realize that you just pulled the stock crank HP to the wheels, with an overrated, overestimated CAI and a less than half-assed exhaust...
which in fact, with your exhaust mod, i could put a dent on the exhaust and make more power than removing the 3rd cat and pre-muffler.... now your APEXI NEO comes into question, and that's like saying...you just pretty much literally made about 330 Crank HP and 300 trq on a stock motor! And I stress stock, because with those mods, you could've just lost a few lug nuts on your front wheels and make more power than the CAI and the exhaust Mod
Everyone else seems afraid to disagree and question the authenticity of this, but that's just not my case. And that's not to say you're lying, you're just made to believe the wrong things.
The tuner's 900 whp, 8 sec civic doesnt justify anything whatsoever, so i dont know why you threw that in there...as if it's meant to convince me that your numbers are correct.
Doing the right stuff, you can make shit loads of power, but some things dont make the claimed difference, and certain things need to be done to accomplish "CERTAIN" things.
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bud, this may seem like ppl may be jealous based on their responses, but anyone here will vouch for what im about to tell you...
im gonna start with this...
I dont care how good your tuner is, i dont care if his name is Albert Einstein...your car does not make 287WHP 265 Torque,
and i dont care what external botl-ons you have either...
But since you listed your mods...you dont even have full exhaust, and all i wanna do is laugh at your "tuner"
and by the way, being good at tuning cars has nothing to do with a dyno reading and giving inaccurate numbers!
so again..those numbers are wrong, and i think you fail to realize that you just pulled the stock crank HP to the wheels, with an overrated, overestimated CAI and a less than half-assed exhaust...
which in fact, with your exhaust mod, i could put a dent on the exhaust and make more power than removing the 3rd cat and pre-muffler.... now your APEXI NEO comes into question, and that's like saying...you just pretty much literally made about 330 Crank HP and 300 trq on a stock motor! And I stress stock, because with those mods, you could've just lost a few lug nuts on your front wheels and make more power than the CAI and the exhaust Mod
Everyone else seems afraid to disagree and question the authenticity of this, but that's just not my case. And that's not to say you're lying, you're just made to believe the wrong things.
The tuner's 900 whp, 8 sec civic doesnt justify anything whatsoever, so i dont know why you threw that in there...as if it's meant to convince me that your numbers are correct.
Doing the right stuff, you can make shit loads of power, but some things dont make the claimed difference, and certain things need to be done to accomplish "CERTAIN" things.
im gonna start with this...
I dont care how good your tuner is, i dont care if his name is Albert Einstein...your car does not make 287WHP 265 Torque,
and i dont care what external botl-ons you have either...
But since you listed your mods...you dont even have full exhaust, and all i wanna do is laugh at your "tuner"
and by the way, being good at tuning cars has nothing to do with a dyno reading and giving inaccurate numbers!
so again..those numbers are wrong, and i think you fail to realize that you just pulled the stock crank HP to the wheels, with an overrated, overestimated CAI and a less than half-assed exhaust...
which in fact, with your exhaust mod, i could put a dent on the exhaust and make more power than removing the 3rd cat and pre-muffler.... now your APEXI NEO comes into question, and that's like saying...you just pretty much literally made about 330 Crank HP and 300 trq on a stock motor! And I stress stock, because with those mods, you could've just lost a few lug nuts on your front wheels and make more power than the CAI and the exhaust Mod
Everyone else seems afraid to disagree and question the authenticity of this, but that's just not my case. And that's not to say you're lying, you're just made to believe the wrong things.
The tuner's 900 whp, 8 sec civic doesnt justify anything whatsoever, so i dont know why you threw that in there...as if it's meant to convince me that your numbers are correct.
Doing the right stuff, you can make shit loads of power, but some things dont make the claimed difference, and certain things need to be done to accomplish "CERTAIN" things.
Chapter Leader (San Antonio)
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From: Houston, Texas
All I am going to say is look at the top right corner. UNCORRECTED. That is never ACCEPTED in real tuning or by any racer. That doesn't include weather conditions, drive train, or anything! You sir got jipped.
Last edited by TheChamp531; Oct 21, 2009 at 01:13 AM.
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its a apexi neo not a aem man relax and thats not even my best i went more
Chapter Leader (San Antonio)
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From: Houston, Texas
Chapter Leader (San Antonio)
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 6,022
Likes: 437
From: Houston, Texas
Dyno Tricks To Be Aware Of
In our "Dynos Lie, Dyno Dash" article in the June 2003 issue, we proved that the readouts of the same 350Z on different brands of dynos can vary greatly. Now we'll uncover tricks that can be used to generate misleading dyno results. We'll also provide tips on how to better optimize the consistency of readouts while revealing some of the compromises of dyno testing. The idea is not merely to catch dyno cheaters, but to also better understand how certain actions/factors can alter dyno test results.
The Ploys
Hot Run vs. Cool Run
The first dyno run when the engine is cool usually produces the biggest power. As heat builds in the engine, the peak power number usually settles at a lower level. This is especially true in turbo applications where heat rises. Intercooler efficiency and the placement of cooling fans can play a role in the heating trend.
The scheme here is to take a hot baseline and compare it to a cool product-test run. A lower-whp baseline coupled with a higher-whp test makes the product appear to make more power than it actually does.
Daisy Chain/Rapid-Fire Runs
Performing back-to-back-to-back pulls without ample cooling time between runs can cause an unnatural buildup of heat. This will adversely affect the before-and-after testing of components. The goal is to conduct testing at consistent, normal engine operating temperatures.
The Density Intensity Game
Another way of cheating is to play the density intensity game - conducting baseline runs in the heat of the afternoon and run the after-tests in the cool evening air. While some dynos can adjust for atmospheric conditions, the bottom line is denser air makes more power.
Beat the Drum
The crooked dyno operator can reprogram the weight of the drum, which will allow the dyno to create anomalous power numbers.
The High Ground
The same crooked dyno operator could elect to change the elevation value in the computer, which would have a critical impact in power generation. Naturally aspirated engines are especially susceptible to this ploy.
Change Load
Changing the load by tightening or loosening the tie-down between runs can compromise any comparisons made with the dyno testing.
Frosty
Turning on the air conditioning during baseline testing will cost a few horses and make the after-test all the more impressive.
The Old Switch-a-roo
Swapping in a another graph in place of your TL baseline will make for some big power gains later.
In our "Dynos Lie, Dyno Dash" article in the June 2003 issue, we proved that the readouts of the same 350Z on different brands of dynos can vary greatly. Now we'll uncover tricks that can be used to generate misleading dyno results. We'll also provide tips on how to better optimize the consistency of readouts while revealing some of the compromises of dyno testing. The idea is not merely to catch dyno cheaters, but to also better understand how certain actions/factors can alter dyno test results.
The Ploys
Hot Run vs. Cool Run
The first dyno run when the engine is cool usually produces the biggest power. As heat builds in the engine, the peak power number usually settles at a lower level. This is especially true in turbo applications where heat rises. Intercooler efficiency and the placement of cooling fans can play a role in the heating trend.
The scheme here is to take a hot baseline and compare it to a cool product-test run. A lower-whp baseline coupled with a higher-whp test makes the product appear to make more power than it actually does.
Daisy Chain/Rapid-Fire Runs
Performing back-to-back-to-back pulls without ample cooling time between runs can cause an unnatural buildup of heat. This will adversely affect the before-and-after testing of components. The goal is to conduct testing at consistent, normal engine operating temperatures.
The Density Intensity Game
Another way of cheating is to play the density intensity game - conducting baseline runs in the heat of the afternoon and run the after-tests in the cool evening air. While some dynos can adjust for atmospheric conditions, the bottom line is denser air makes more power.
Beat the Drum
The crooked dyno operator can reprogram the weight of the drum, which will allow the dyno to create anomalous power numbers.
The High Ground
The same crooked dyno operator could elect to change the elevation value in the computer, which would have a critical impact in power generation. Naturally aspirated engines are especially susceptible to this ploy.
Change Load
Changing the load by tightening or loosening the tie-down between runs can compromise any comparisons made with the dyno testing.
Frosty
Turning on the air conditioning during baseline testing will cost a few horses and make the after-test all the more impressive.
The Old Switch-a-roo
Swapping in a another graph in place of your TL baseline will make for some big power gains later.
Three Wheelin'
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 1,360
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From: NYC
dude...im gonna stop posting at every thread, because you've posted this all over the forum...so lets focus on one thing...and try to get this through your head.... you mention ur car dynod 260 whp stock..
which means..there was only 26 hp loss through the drivetrain, and that includes, your clutch and pp, tranny, axles, rotors, wheels and tires.
can you absorb that much?
now, NO!!!! you did not only lose 26 hp through ur drivetrain. unless it is made all of carbon fiber...
so your paper, means absolutely nothing to me.
and how do you call removing the 3rd cat and pre-muffler a semi-exhaust? that's 10% of the potential of the exhaust gains if done right...in fact, with that setup, u didnt even take full advantage of your super CAI. I suggest you dig up some info and educate yourself about your own car before you come in here with some claims...some may take that...but there's some of us here that actually understand this stuff to the core.
just a suggestion... and please dont point at your dyno print and say "here's proof"
which means..there was only 26 hp loss through the drivetrain, and that includes, your clutch and pp, tranny, axles, rotors, wheels and tires.
can you absorb that much?
now, NO!!!! you did not only lose 26 hp through ur drivetrain. unless it is made all of carbon fiber...
so your paper, means absolutely nothing to me.
and how do you call removing the 3rd cat and pre-muffler a semi-exhaust? that's 10% of the potential of the exhaust gains if done right...in fact, with that setup, u didnt even take full advantage of your super CAI. I suggest you dig up some info and educate yourself about your own car before you come in here with some claims...some may take that...but there's some of us here that actually understand this stuff to the core.
just a suggestion... and please dont point at your dyno print and say "here's proof"
Three Wheelin'
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From: Texas
Agreed with Opel...This reminds me of one of the Vette tuners from back in the day selling there 700hp kits to someone...The dude got a dyno graph claiming 680 or something to the wheels...Then he goes and dynoes it and only got 490 something out of it lol...IMO something was calibrated wrong because those numbers do not add up at all. He could have given you another cars graph lol.
The whp doesn't seem to bad the J32A2 can make around 26Xwhp all done up. Another 300cc of displacement and voila you got these numbers. His max torque seems a little high for a 3.5, I was thinking in the mid 250lb-ft for max tq.
Doesn't seem to unreasonable, last time I did my J32A2 I got 278 at the hubs using a dynapack, and that was before the moded header collector, larger exhaust piping and full port/polish, all that on a stock J30A1 cat too.
Now not being tunned, like I used to be im keeping up with stock Evo 9 MR's whilst being NA, (granted only when im in VTEC, naturally)
Do I think his numbers should be a little lower after corrections?
Yes.
Is it possible for a J35A8 to make this power with simple bolt ons and tunning?
Yes.
Keep in mind those are peak values.
Doesn't seem to unreasonable, last time I did my J32A2 I got 278 at the hubs using a dynapack, and that was before the moded header collector, larger exhaust piping and full port/polish, all that on a stock J30A1 cat too.
Now not being tunned, like I used to be im keeping up with stock Evo 9 MR's whilst being NA, (granted only when im in VTEC, naturally)
Do I think his numbers should be a little lower after corrections?
Yes.
Is it possible for a J35A8 to make this power with simple bolt ons and tunning?
Yes.
Keep in mind those are peak values.
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The whp doesn't seem to bad the J32A2 can make around 26Xwhp all done up. Another 300cc of displacement and voila you got these numbers. His max torque seems a little high for a 3.5, I was thinking in the mid 250lb-ft for max tq.
Doesn't seem to unreasonable, last time I did my J32A2 I got 278 at the hubs using a dynapack, and that was before the moded header collector, larger exhaust piping and full port/polish, all that on a stock J30A1 cat too.
Now not being tunned, like I used to be im keeping up with stock Evo 9 MR's whilst being NA, (granted only when im in VTEC, naturally)
Do I think his numbers should be a little lower after corrections?
Yes.
Is it possible for a J35A8 to make this power with simple bolt ons and tunning?
Yes.
Keep in mind those are peak values.
Doesn't seem to unreasonable, last time I did my J32A2 I got 278 at the hubs using a dynapack, and that was before the moded header collector, larger exhaust piping and full port/polish, all that on a stock J30A1 cat too.
Now not being tunned, like I used to be im keeping up with stock Evo 9 MR's whilst being NA, (granted only when im in VTEC, naturally)
Do I think his numbers should be a little lower after corrections?
Yes.
Is it possible for a J35A8 to make this power with simple bolt ons and tunning?
Yes.
Keep in mind those are peak values.
too bad youre not in GA. id put you on a legitimate dyno.
i too am a non-believer.
im going to have to see the adjustments made with SAE correction and smoothing at 5 to even believe anything.
not to mention density and altitude corrections.
i too am a non-believer.
im going to have to see the adjustments made with SAE correction and smoothing at 5 to even believe anything.
not to mention density and altitude corrections.
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No doubt next timein on the dyno ill record it and post it .... but by then ill have pre-cat deletes and alot more
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You never pull a 6speed manual in 3rd gear. 100% of the time 3rd gear will yield higher, inaccurate results. Reason being 3rd gear doesn't have the 1:1 gearing ratio 4th does. I wanted to believe your numbers but I cal only call BS now cause the pulls were in 3rd gear and you wont and cant make more power in 4th. Tuned or not. Its the laws of mechanics.
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You never pull a 6speed manual in 3rd gear. 100% of the time 3rd gear will yield higher, inaccurate results. Reason being 3rd gear doesn't have the 1:1 gearing ratio 4th does. I wanted to believe your numbers but I cal only call BS now cause the pulls were in 3rd gear and you wont and cant make more power in 4th. Tuned or not. Its the laws of mechanics.
so trust me man but ok u can believe whatever u want ......
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Damn u need to get ur facts straight no matter what u make more power in 4th not in 3rd........i think im wasting my time here ..
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A dyno sheet can be made to say whatever the tuner wants it to say. Lance is right about wanting to do a 1:1 on the gears to get more acurate results on ENGINE performance. Also like all have said, uncorrected numbers are BS. Is a 3.5L capabile of numbers like that , yes, but it takes more than you have done to it, I have personally built over 20 J series V6s and for the amount of work you have done to the car the numbers don't add up.
Last edited by NVA-AV6; Oct 21, 2009 at 09:59 AM.