DIY Head removal

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Old 05-10-2009, 11:48 PM
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DIY Head removal


Starting point.

Remove bolts

8mm remove them and any fuel hoses

No picture of runner removal. Sorry I was too dirty to take pictures. Plus I move really fast and forget to snap pixs.

After runners are removed with 12mm you will begin to remove valve cover bolts that are 10mm to gain access to cylinder heads.

Removing the head bolts is tricky. Remove them as listed. Use a 1/2 drive breaker bar and press very hard to loosen. Grunt if you have to.

If you plan to reuse the timing belt (would not recommend it) Mark the relationship. In 2 spots. It will help you line up the belt later when reassembling. Mark 2 spots on the crank gear not shown and 2 spots on both timing gears.


Use a pry bar in the fallowing picture to remove the cylinder head if it won’t wiggle loose. Anywhere where you see a gasket isn't the correct place for a pry bar.


Now if you have made it this far into removal and you’re not sure what you really doing still and you’re not sure if everything is disconnected from the cylinder head it's ok you will learn. But if you’re still really nerves then run like hell to a phone and call someone you trust to finish the job.

Now you are done if you are 21 years of age go get a strong drink and relax. If you’re under the age of 21 get a soda.
Old 05-11-2009, 10:05 AM
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Why? You planning on polishing and porting these things?
Old 05-11-2009, 11:01 AM
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great DIY. this wil help me with my pnp
Old 05-11-2009, 11:53 AM
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Interesting, looking at that last picture I never realized the TL had siamesed cylinders. I wonder if there has ever been a problem with hot spots in the cylinders...
Old 05-11-2009, 12:51 PM
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Great write up... You wouldn't happen to be researching the supposed rumors that K series parts fit this block would you


Curious what you're planning? Or is it just head gasket?
Old 05-11-2009, 01:29 PM
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[QUOTE=stillhere153;10886120]Great write up... You wouldn't happen to be researching the supposed rumors that K series parts fit this block would you


Curious what you're planning? Or is it just head gasket?[/

Time will tell my friend. MY pockets Are heavy. I'm just done with school for the summer and im taking it easy working on my projects. doing write up for members. Later one this week. I'll fully anwser your question on the k-series.
Old 05-11-2009, 01:33 PM
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is it possible to warp the heads with improper removal? adamlee says that you should do a quarter turn per bolt in that order, not remove every bolt one at a time.
Old 05-11-2009, 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by phee
is it possible to warp the heads with improper removal? adamlee says that you should do a quarter turn per bolt in that order, not remove every bolt one at a time.
Only if the engine is hot. I could be wrong but never had a problem. Usually most of us get the head resurfaced.
Old 05-11-2009, 06:29 PM
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Originally Posted by phee
is it possible to warp the heads with improper removal? adamlee says that you should do a quarter turn per bolt in that order, not remove every bolt one at a time.
You are supposed to loosen the bolts the first time like that to minimize any. Then go back at it in the order above. there is a lot of force on them.
Old 05-11-2009, 06:46 PM
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You're an evil genious, these writeups are just a tease
Old 05-12-2009, 04:49 AM
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Originally Posted by stillhere153
You're an evil genious, these writeups are just a tease
Research has comfirmed that Any K-series valve springs are same size as j-series. Thus, I orderd OEM valve springs for k -series only enough for one head. To set and test them to comfirm that they work and are the same load or close to the stock j-series valve train. I will be snaping picture of me installing the springs into the head on my kitchen counter. IF this comfirms close or even slightly off. It will mean that we can buy performance valve springs for custom cam shafts. (And will someone get a working number to hondata) Lines are fax mechine both numbers. Also i'm working on to see if the any k-series connecting rods will be close to j-series connecting rods.
Old 05-12-2009, 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by beachexotic03
Anywhere where you see a gasket isn't the correct place for a pry bar.
lol..

PnP!?..
Old 05-12-2009, 12:27 PM
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Originally Posted by beachexotic03
Research has comfirmed that Any K-series valve springs are same size as j-series. Thus, I orderd OEM valve springs for k -series only enough for one head. To set and test them to comfirm that they work and are the same load or close to the stock j-series valve train. I will be snaping picture of me installing the springs into the head on my kitchen counter. IF this comfirms close or even slightly off. It will mean that we can buy performance valve springs for custom cam shafts. (And will someone get a working number to hondata) Lines are fax mechine both numbers. Also i'm working on to see if the any k-series connecting rods will be close to j-series connecting rods.
You realize you're playing with fire installing a valve spring with an unknown pressure. You can wipe a cam doing this.

I would take the stock TL spring and the new spring to a machine shop and have them measure the pressure at installed open height and installed closed height.
Old 05-12-2009, 02:25 PM
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Originally Posted by I hate cars
You realize you're playing with fire installing a valve spring with an unknown pressure. You can wipe a cam doing this.

I would take the stock TL spring and the new spring to a machine shop and have them measure the pressure at installed open height and installed closed height.
I have the tools in shop to do this. I'll port picture latter on this week.
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