clutchmasters stage 3 kit w/ flywheel installed =)
#1
clutchmasters stage 3 kit w/ flywheel installed =)
all i have to say is WOW 0_0
alum flywheel 13lbs
power plus 2 PP
segmented kevlar disc
after driving it for a little over a week here are my thoughts,
clutch engagement is as smooth as stock, with zero chatter. the clutch pedal is pretty heavy though, it took a few days to get used to it.. the car feels so much lighter on its feet and 3rd gear feels like 2nd gear now. cant wait to get it redyno'd. im really curious how it affected my hp/tq curves.
my only complaint is having almost zero traction in 1st and 2nd gears now even with 19's and BFG KDW-2 tires =/
alum flywheel 13lbs
power plus 2 PP
segmented kevlar disc
after driving it for a little over a week here are my thoughts,
clutch engagement is as smooth as stock, with zero chatter. the clutch pedal is pretty heavy though, it took a few days to get used to it.. the car feels so much lighter on its feet and 3rd gear feels like 2nd gear now. cant wait to get it redyno'd. im really curious how it affected my hp/tq curves.
my only complaint is having almost zero traction in 1st and 2nd gears now even with 19's and BFG KDW-2 tires =/
#2
94 DC4 RS LSV/Turbo
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um... I am surprised you get traction in 3rd
just watched that shit... it got up to 60 in like 1 second... for christ sake man...
see if you put 17" with slicks on... see if it doesn't have traction then
just watched that shit... it got up to 60 in like 1 second... for christ sake man...
see if you put 17" with slicks on... see if it doesn't have traction then
#5
OMGWTF4THGENTL
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Nice work...
I've wondered what highoutput SC folks are doing about clutch slip.
Looks like you've got a nice answer.
Stress is stress... Any concern about drive shafts or tranny gears?
Didn't you break a set of gator axles BEFORE this clutch?
You're running a 3.2 TL engine right? So i take it this clutchmaster setup is direct bolt on for us? Like dan said... How much? Where?
I've wondered what highoutput SC folks are doing about clutch slip.
Looks like you've got a nice answer.
Stress is stress... Any concern about drive shafts or tranny gears?
Didn't you break a set of gator axles BEFORE this clutch?
You're running a 3.2 TL engine right? So i take it this clutchmaster setup is direct bolt on for us? Like dan said... How much? Where?
#6
Moved to the LOU
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Originally Posted by 04accordcpe
my only complaint is having almost zero traction in 1st and 2nd gears now even with 19's and BFG KDW-2 tires =/
#7
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Shit, I'm not supercharged yet and get no traction in 1st, and most of second. I definitely like the idea of heavier clutch pedal. I think the TL's pedal is way to light, almost to the point of being hard to tell where the engagement point is when you haven't driven it in a while. Nice work on getting that, I've always loved your accord, it is a beast, and nice looking too. How much was it (the clutch and flywheel setup)?
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#8
Retired!!! ON TOP!!!
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Originally Posted by Kennedy
Nice work...
I've wondered what highoutput SC folks are doing about clutch slip.
Looks like you've got a nice answer.
Stress is stress... Any concern about drive shafts or tranny gears?
Didn't you break a set of gator axles BEFORE this clutch?
You're running a 3.2 TL engine right? So i take it this clutchmaster setup is direct bolt on for us? Like dan said... How much? Where?
I've wondered what highoutput SC folks are doing about clutch slip.
Looks like you've got a nice answer.
Stress is stress... Any concern about drive shafts or tranny gears?
Didn't you break a set of gator axles BEFORE this clutch?
You're running a 3.2 TL engine right? So i take it this clutchmaster setup is direct bolt on for us? Like dan said... How much? Where?
You shouldn't worry about the Honda/Acura manual trannies... they are built like tanks... I once drove a manual tranny for over 50 miles, stop and go traffic, and it had absolute no oil in it... 'cause I hit a pot hole and it cracked the tranny housing and spilled all it's oil... drove like a champ with no issues... all i did was replace the housing and put in an LSD (since it was open already)... and it was trouble free for another 100K miles...
Axles are whole other story... but they are cheap to replace...
#9
OMGWTF4THGENTL
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Originally Posted by rodneyc77
You shouldn't worry about the Honda/Acura manual trannies... they are built like tanks... I once drove a manual tranny for over 50 miles, stop and go traffic, and it had absolute no oil in it... 'cause I hit a pot hole and it cracked the tranny housing and spilled all it's oil... drove like a champ with no issues... all i did was replace the housing and put in an LSD (since it was open already)... and it was trouble free for another 100K miles...
Axles are whole other story... but they are cheap to replace...
Axles are whole other story... but they are cheap to replace...
I believe you, I've heard the same from other Honda communities... My concern is the fact that Acura introduce the the clutch restriction valve in the TL-S to slow the clutch release when you clutch pop (I felt it on my test drive, it's very there)... The defined intent was to prevent breaking gear teeth.
That wouldn't have been introduced if some engineer didn;t foresee it as a problem no?
#14
Originally Posted by Kennedy
Nice work...
I've wondered what highoutput SC folks are doing about clutch slip.
Looks like you've got a nice answer.
Stress is stress... Any concern about drive shafts or tranny gears?
Didn't you break a set of gator axles BEFORE this clutch?
You're running a 3.2 TL engine right? So i take it this clutchmaster setup is direct bolt on for us? Like dan said... How much? Where?
I've wondered what highoutput SC folks are doing about clutch slip.
Looks like you've got a nice answer.
Stress is stress... Any concern about drive shafts or tranny gears?
Didn't you break a set of gator axles BEFORE this clutch?
You're running a 3.2 TL engine right? So i take it this clutchmaster setup is direct bolt on for us? Like dan said... How much? Where?
yes 3.2 engine and its a direct bolt on. the kit cost me $1425.00 but no worries. i remember another member hear said he can get them for 1250.00 if he gets a few people interested. i didnt have the time for that...
i did break some gator axles on my first launch, but they turned out to be nothing more than painted taiwan specials. i did get my money back for them at least. after research, i went with the TL-s axles, which are thicker and a little more beefed up than the accord ones.
you bring up some very good points kennedy. right now i am going on my 3rd tranny . wheel hop destroyed my stock accord 6spd which is basically the TL 6spd, minus the LSD (open diff). my second tranny was from a 04 tl-s, but was a lemon from the get go. 1st and 2nd gear syncros were sloppy and very hard or next to impossible, to get into gear sometimes. finally 1st gear gave out on me and i was only using 2nd through 6th gears at the end. after doing some searching i found a 05 TL-s tranny with only 10k on it and its perfect so far. i dont think this one will give me problems anytime soon.
wheel hop is the number one destoyer of transmission and axles, but i have the cure for it installed on my car as we speak . can you say ZERO wheel hop?? ill get some details for you guys soon.
Originally Posted by stillhere153
um... I am surprised you get traction in 3rd
just watched that shit... it got up to 60 in like 1 second... for christ sake man...
see if you put 17" with slicks on... see if it doesn't have traction then
just watched that shit... it got up to 60 in like 1 second... for christ sake man...
see if you put 17" with slicks on... see if it doesn't have traction then
#17
^^ FI or NA, a good grabbing clutch is always a good idea
heres a rundown on your options,
this is the setup you want if you are going with the stock flywheel. first, the flywheel must be sent to clutchmasters to have them notch out a trianglur pattern, on the edge of the FW so it can accomodate their PP's. then, segmented kevlar on a rigid hub disc (no springs) and power plus 1 PP. if you want more pedal feel, go with a power plus 2 PP, but it can be hard on the oem dual mass FW.
^ this is the clutch kit that came out of my car. clutchmasters stage 3 with the stock flywheel. 12k miles on it and it doesnt show a hint of wear no heat cracks and tons of meat left on the disc. if it wasnt dirty, you'd think its a brand new kit. im sold on clutchmasters
just for comparisons, heres another pic of my current kit. clutchmasters stage 3, segmented kevlar spring hub disc and power plus 2 PP. spring hub is a must with a one piece lighten flywheel, if you dont want the drivability to suffer.
^notice the difference in the PP? splines are much more stout and flatter than the previous kit. it will give alot more clamping power, than the power plus 1. you can definetely feel the difference in the pedal though.
now heres a pic of SIRSIG's kit. clutchmasters stage 4, 6 puc sprung hub kevlar disc and power plus 1 PP, same PP as my previous one.
^6 puc is much more aggresive and has a very nice bite. what i notice with siggys car is, you have to keep the revs up to get a smooth engagement. if you go with the 6 puc, i suggest going with the power plus 1 PP like siggy did, to keep some drivability.
overall, any one of these kits will suit your needs. its just a matter of what you want and how much you want to spend =P
heres a rundown on your options,
this is the setup you want if you are going with the stock flywheel. first, the flywheel must be sent to clutchmasters to have them notch out a trianglur pattern, on the edge of the FW so it can accomodate their PP's. then, segmented kevlar on a rigid hub disc (no springs) and power plus 1 PP. if you want more pedal feel, go with a power plus 2 PP, but it can be hard on the oem dual mass FW.
^ this is the clutch kit that came out of my car. clutchmasters stage 3 with the stock flywheel. 12k miles on it and it doesnt show a hint of wear no heat cracks and tons of meat left on the disc. if it wasnt dirty, you'd think its a brand new kit. im sold on clutchmasters
just for comparisons, heres another pic of my current kit. clutchmasters stage 3, segmented kevlar spring hub disc and power plus 2 PP. spring hub is a must with a one piece lighten flywheel, if you dont want the drivability to suffer.
^notice the difference in the PP? splines are much more stout and flatter than the previous kit. it will give alot more clamping power, than the power plus 1. you can definetely feel the difference in the pedal though.
now heres a pic of SIRSIG's kit. clutchmasters stage 4, 6 puc sprung hub kevlar disc and power plus 1 PP, same PP as my previous one.
^6 puc is much more aggresive and has a very nice bite. what i notice with siggys car is, you have to keep the revs up to get a smooth engagement. if you go with the 6 puc, i suggest going with the power plus 1 PP like siggy did, to keep some drivability.
overall, any one of these kits will suit your needs. its just a matter of what you want and how much you want to spend =P
#20
Originally Posted by Kennedy
Does the $1450 include the new notch flywheel?
If not, Yikes...
Clutch job is pushing into the $2500s...
If not, Yikes...
Clutch job is pushing into the $2500s...
no i think you misunderstood. if you opt to stay with the stock flywheel, you have to send it in so they can notch it out. if you go with their alum flywheel, it comes with the notches already.
the kit without the alum flywheel costs around 700.00 and that includes them notching out your stock flywheel.
BTW, how do you get 2500.00?!? a decent shop should charge you no more than 400-500 for install. so i say around 2k for the works
Originally Posted by ussi
sean - i think i'm going to get this...
#21
OMGWTF4THGENTL
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Originally Posted by 04accordcpe
no i think you misunderstood. if you opt to stay with the stock flywheel, you have to send it in so they can notch it out. if you go with their alum flywheel, it comes with the notches already.
the kit without the alum flywheel costs around 700.00 and that includes them notching out your stock flywheel.
BTW, how do you get 2500.00?!? a decent shop should charge you no more than 400-500 for install. so i say around 2k for the works
the kit without the alum flywheel costs around 700.00 and that includes them notching out your stock flywheel.
BTW, how do you get 2500.00?!? a decent shop should charge you no more than 400-500 for install. so i say around 2k for the works
I didn't know the $1450 kit came with thier flywheel. I was assuming it didn't, thus $1450 for clutch + $500 for OEM replacement flywheel +notching, + $500 install = $2500.
I assume thier flywheel is a lightweight singlemass... Notice any new engine vibes? How smooth is the engagement compared to the stock dualmass?
Sound liek we I have a nice alternative when I burn my clutch out.
#22
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Originally Posted by 04accordcpe
no i think you misunderstood. if you opt to stay with the stock flywheel, you have to send it in so they can notch it out. if you go with their alum flywheel, it comes with the notches already.
the kit without the alum flywheel costs around 700.00 and that includes them notching out your stock flywheel.
BTW, how do you get 2500.00?!? a decent shop should charge you no more than 400-500 for install. so i say around 2k for the works
nice you need it
the kit without the alum flywheel costs around 700.00 and that includes them notching out your stock flywheel.
BTW, how do you get 2500.00?!? a decent shop should charge you no more than 400-500 for install. so i say around 2k for the works
nice you need it
#23
OMGWTF4THGENTL
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Originally Posted by Alex22
Hey, How much is Installation for a new clutch at a shop? for a 3G TL
Originally Posted by 04accordcpe
no i think you misunderstood. if you opt to stay with the stock flywheel, you have to send it in so they can notch it out. if you go with their alum flywheel, it comes with the notches already.
the kit without the alum flywheel costs around 700.00 and that includes them notching out your stock flywheel.
BTW, how do you get 2500.00?!? a decent shop should charge you no more than 400-500 for install . so i say around 2k for the works
the kit without the alum flywheel costs around 700.00 and that includes them notching out your stock flywheel.
BTW, how do you get 2500.00?!? a decent shop should charge you no more than 400-500 for install . so i say around 2k for the works
#25
Originally Posted by Kennedy
I assume thier flywheel is a lightweight singlemass... Notice any new engine vibes? How smooth is the engagement compared to the stock dualmass?
yes, it is a one piece FW.
no vibes or extra noise whatsoever. engagement believe or not is smoother than stock. only difference is the stiffer clutch pedal, but can be fixed by purchasing the power plus 1 PP instead. i actually love the firmness of the pedal now. you get a much better feel on where the clutch is engaging.
Originally Posted by BLACKURA_NY
wow. first and second gear was like a flash of light... you track this badboy yet? i would surely assume high 12's
btw. hows the no-cat situation going?
btw. hows the no-cat situation going?
cat situation is looking grim. so far NOTHING from eshift. no call back, no emails, no replys. =(
#27
THE J35A2...
Originally Posted by 04accordcpe
^^ FI or NA, a good grabbing clutch is always a good idea
Originally Posted by 04accordcpe
now heres a pic of SIRSIG's kit. clutchmasters stage 4, 6 puc sprung hub kevlar disc and power plus 1 PP, same PP as my previous one.
^6 puc is much more aggresive and has a very nice bite. what i notice with siggys car is, you have to keep the revs up to get a smooth engagement. if you go with the 6 puc, i suggest going with the power plus 1 PP like siggy did, to keep some drivability.
overall, any one of these kits will suit your needs. its just a matter of what you want and how much you want to spend =P
^6 puc is much more aggresive and has a very nice bite. what i notice with siggys car is, you have to keep the revs up to get a smooth engagement. if you go with the 6 puc, i suggest going with the power plus 1 PP like siggy did, to keep some drivability.
overall, any one of these kits will suit your needs. its just a matter of what you want and how much you want to spend =P
#28
Originally Posted by BLACKURA_NY
come take a trip out east.. ill show you where they're located :grin:
sucks to here that its not looking good, but the ride sure is i didnt know you put the LSD in too... no question asked that car is breaking high 12's
sucks to here that its not looking good, but the ride sure is i didnt know you put the LSD in too... no question asked that car is breaking high 12's
Originally Posted by SIRSIG
5,000 miles later couldn't be happier, grab like fuck upto now glad you like 'em Sean
#29
THE J35A2...
Originally Posted by 04accordcpe
its a great mod!! that day i raced your car down the track sig, is what sold me on the FW
once again congrats and take it easy on the first 500 with once in awhile gunning it. Hope to see you March 8 @ Fontana
#33
05 two tone tl
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i have a o5 tl just ordered the stage 3 clutch w the flywheel.clutchmasters wanted 1500.00. i got it from a wholesaler that i have a membership w for 1200.oo shipped should have it installed by friday. btw clutchmasters said the clutch for the accord and tl are a little different
#34
Originally Posted by slippry
i have a o5 tl just ordered the stage 3 clutch w the flywheel.clutchmasters wanted 1500.00. i got it from a wholesaler that i have a membership w for 1200.oo shipped should have it installed by friday.
ya i could have had got it for about that much, but time was a factor.
Originally Posted by slippry
btw clutchmasters said the clutch for the accord and tl are a little different
its all the same stuff man, trust me. besides the bigger displacement and lsd, both engine and transmissions share the SAME exact components. who ever told you that was an idiot or it was jose trying to cover his tracks. he probably thought i went online to talk about the major issues im having with my kit, so that is his way in defending himself why the parts didnt work. he also hinted to me that its because my car is an accord, but he shut up right away when he found out i have an entire TL drivetrain swap installed i didnt post anything negative yet, because i always give companys the benefit of the doubt to resolve things.
all i can say is you better make sure they give you the right parts. apparantly, they have been purchasing the ring gear for the flywheels from a different supplier. while it has the same teeth count, they are much more shallow with less space between them and im having issues. my starter sounds like its being pinched and getting louder and louder each day. i sent a plethora of pictures to jose and he's conseded that they installed the wrong sized gear from the way he sounded, im not the only one that has called him on this. my flywheel was a batch of 4 made, so 3 others out there are possibly experiencing the same issues.
whats funny is the kit was designed for the cl-s and not for the TL/accords thats what makes me laugh, when someove told you this is for the TL and accords different. if you look at the flywheel, it has sections for the cl-s crank sensors, but they are left empty since we dont need them.
my friend has a cl-s swap in his 6th gen accord, so we took off his starter and compared it with mine. we also installed it on my car, but made the same exact noise. we took some close up shots of the flywheel ring gear and thats when we concluded, that was the problem. we took some pics of our starters and while they were off, closeups of the flywheel teeth too,
my clutchmaster flywheel,
stock cl-s flywheel,
both starters,
my starter, you can see where its getting worn at the end. as you can see, its baarely in contact with the ring gear.
and heres nicks starter, teeth doesnt show any signs of where whatsoever,
they talked about getting me the right parts, but havent said anything about the labor. they better damn well cover the labor, cause im not paying for something that wasnt my fault.
#35
05 two tone tl
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damn i didnt know u were havin probs w it . i talked 2 lonnie at clutchmasters he said something was different between the tl and accord .ill call him 2 morrow and see what he has 2 say and get back w u.
#39
Blown is Best
Originally Posted by MrHeeltoe
I am wondering how the system I proposed before would stack up....stock feel pedal, stock engagement, retain self-adjusting style pressure plate, aluminum flywheel.