TLdub

I am sure people have asked this before but my clutch is pretty much done and I would like advice on what to get. Stock sounds pretty good to me but I think it was going out when I got the car. If the stock was in the car for it's whole life time I am pretty reasured that it will last a long time again but I am not for sure if that is the case. If I do choose to go aftermarket, which would you suggest? Does anyone have any experience with aftermarket level one clutches? The main reason I would want an aftermarket clutch would be to hold up to my occasionally spirted driving style and the potential for more extenstive upgrades. Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you

Excelerate

iTrader: (1)

If you are a spirited driver with basic mods I would consider the Clutchmaster's Stage 1 setup:

http://store.excelerateperformance.c.../i-251868.aspx

Richie v6

LUK is the OEM supplier for TL clutches. You can get them online much cheaper than through Honda. They also come with bearings and alignment tool unlike Honda.

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-112/6mt-oem-clutch-flywheel-question-848906/

AndrewA

iTrader: (3)

Hot damn, that carolinaclutch place is right down I-85 from my work. Less than half an hour. Bookmarked!

brianch

What about for the TL Type S? Do I have to go through Acura for OEM? Or does luk make one as well.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

^yes, LUK makes the factory clutch.....

Sterling McDaniel

Does the 5 Speed automatic Type S have a Dual Clutch or Single Clutch automated manual?

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

^its not a DCT.

Sterling McDaniel

alright it does have an LSD though right?

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

^only the manual equipped TL's

6MT 04-06 = LSD
type-s 6MT = LSD

EvilVirus

iTrader: (8)

Mcdaniel search here on the forum or google Acura TL Specs/History and read up on it. You will learn a little more about it that way.

TLdub

Thanks for the replies! The link to that thread you sent me pretty much convinced me to go stock. It seems like the easiest route and it can hold up to about anything I am going to throw at it. I have had a lightweight flywheel before and I did not like the feel of it much, maybe it would be better in the Acura though, not sure.

Thanks

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

^if you go to a light weight flywheel you will need to use a sprung clutch.

Hi speed used the factory stock clutch with his supercharger to reach 350whp.
so, the OP is correct when he said that the stock clutch will be enough for anything he throws at it.

Sterling McDaniel

I did but didnt find much my question was really about DCT but its all good now

anthracite_ftw

The 5AT TL has a torque converter, not a dual or single clutch automated manual.

gianc00

hello guys i have a 07 tl type s and i want to replace my clutch but im debating between a clutchmaster stage 1 and stage 3. Do u guys think the stage 3 will blow the tranny. Thanks

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

Just get the OEM factory clutch.
it can hold power up to 350wheel horse power.

kinda weird, when you could have just read the above information in this thread.......

EvilVirus

iTrader: (8)

TLdub

Ugh.. so this no name shop that works with my uncles car dealership quoted me $550 labor and $240 for the clutch kit plus whatever it would cost for my flywheel to be resurfaced. Now the guy is saying he ordered an Acura EL (a canadian 4cyl 5spd) clutch instead and that my clutch cost twice as much but he's just going to charge me $80 more than the EL clutch ($240+$80)... the link to the thread thats in the beginning of this thread shows that you can get the clutch kit for $180 and it also shows people have gotten it done for a couple hundreds bucks less of labor. You guys think its just cause of where I live or should I tell him I want to pay less and buy my own clutch kit?

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

the 550 labor sounds right.
I paid 400 or something like that.

you will need the correct clutch, tho.
why not just order the clutch from the provided links, DUH!?!?!?!?!?!

https://www.google.com/webhp?rlz=1C1...cp.r_qf.&cad=b

http://www.ebay.com/dsc/i.html?LH_Ti...08-047&_sop=15

TLdub

Trust me, I have looked into that route. Partsgeek sells the Luk replacement for $146 shipped (a steal). The guy that works at the shop said he would charge me $126 more in labor if I bought my own clutch though.. so the savings would be minimal and he said he would have to put my car back together and scoot it outside. That would take an extra week and who knows if they would have a free lift by the time the new clutch comes in. Apparently the one he ordered is a Sacs (aprox. $300 for me) but the clutch itself says Luk on it... So he came to the conclusion that Sacs is manufacturing the clutches for Luk. My logic would say it's the other way around. It kind of sucks that he didn't realise he had the clutch for a civic until my car was apart because then I might have taken it elsewhere. Overall the cost should not be much over $800 hopefully and I guess I can live with that if end result is good. Moral of the story, make sure you emphasize that your car is a TL and not any of the other two letter named vehicles that they have in their line .

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

Sounds like you're getting screwed.

Hi speed

iTrader: (3)

I agree, pull the car and take it to another shop if it's at all financially feasible. Any shop that wants extra to install your parts is going to screw you over in other ways. Especially if they ordered the wrong part in the first place, I would take it as an indication they don't have any business working on your car.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

^hi speed himself.

TLdub

Haha, good observation. That's what almost every shop around here is about. They always have to get you with a mark-up on the part and they will either not let you buy your own or mark up labor if you bring in your own. They really are not out there for the customer, or they are just struggling that much that they need to make that extra buck on every job. I should have just bought my part in the first place, brought it to the shop, and asked them to put it in. If they said no, I could have gone elsewhere... (even though every shop around here i've been to is the same way)

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

^dont let him install that clutch. its the wrong part.

EvilVirus

iTrader: (8)

I agree with....Hi justn....anyone who is going to charge you more for bringing in your parts is one I would not do business with

TLdub

Thanks a lot for the advice Hi speed, but I pulled the trigger already . I hope it turns out alright.. They just had me in a hard place. My car was apart (proclaimed) and I just wasn't sure if I would trust them putting it back together with a bad rapport u know? and who knows what they would have charged me. I work full time and I am getting ready for school so I just didn't have time to mess around. My cousin recommended them but now I might have to question his credibility.

TLdub

That's strange. I thought it was just a normal thing for them to do that because around here, unless you are going to a home ran, backwoods shop, they will charge you for bringing parts in. I have already had my run with a backwoods shop as well with my old car.. I had to hassel them to use the parts I bought and when it was all said and done, they didn't connect my HIDs back correctly and one of the ballasts fried. They also didn't re-connect my windshield wiper hoses and some other miniscule things. You just can't win around here. As for Justn, I am hoping it's the right part, they re-ordered a Sachs and I looked at some sights like JC Whitney and the Sachs clutches are around $325, which is a rip-off considering they are probably made by Luk, placed in a Sachs box and marked up the a$$.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

^we're all human. some times, my car comes back from the shop and i see bolts and washers sitting on the cowl.

lol hopefully my car didnt need those.

TLdub

Ughh... .. So they got done with my car yesterday.. It took them a couple days to source some synchromesh FM, which who knows if they really even used it.. they charged me like $60 for synchromesh and $20 install so it cost around $1000 total now. At this point I could have sucked it up and gone to the dealer.. But anyways.. I go on a drive and the steering wheel is cocked to the right (while driving straight) and it feels like the power steering is going out.. on top of that there was a clunking sound coming from the front when I go over bumps that sounded like sh*t.. It was the same kind of sound that my ex's Taurus made when she took it to this backwoods shop and they dropped it off the jacks. So I took it back to them and told them to fix it. To top it off I live 50 minutes away and work everday for the next two weeks 7-4/5. I hate this place. I will be so pissed if I get a ride all the way back there and it is not fixed to how it was before. I also noticed that the clutch grabs wayyy low compared to how it was before (I mean I actually killed it twice, and I have driven stick for 5+ years). I am guessing that is just due to my old pressure plate being so worn.

KN_TL

iTrader: (3)

Make sure they filled and bled the power steering fluid (just need to go lock to lock a few times).

They didn't mark the steering knuckle location, have them move it for you or go under there, take out the bolt and move it yourself.

The clunking could be the subframe bushings.

You can adjust the pedal height. Take it back and have them do it or just loosen the lock nut on the CMC and rotate it outward. That will move it higher. Just don't go too far where there is constant pressure on the system. That will result in needing a new CMC soon.

xSilver_Bulletx

I hope they adjusted the pedal. You don't want that piston rod to engage the master cylinder too close or else it'll make the throwout bearing wear prematurely.

jptypeS

and you will need an alightment since they had to drop the subframe

Bruce Banner

iTrader: (2)

This is true, it is really gay that shops have to do this, but around this region of the states, they use this practice.

It's either you buy part from them or you go away.
The shops that allow you to bring the parts charge extra. Its' very homosexual.
I miss cali, they let me bring the parts and no extra charge which makes sense.

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

Cali is awesome. I bought my own parts and they just charged me labor. They know if they don't take your business someone else will.