Check Engine Light - o2 sensors detecting too rich

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Old 12-03-2009, 03:19 PM
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Check Engine Light - o2 sensors detecting too rich

Just got the AEM FIC installed and tuned for an S/C'ed '05 5AT. The CEL came on the next day. Brought it back to the dealer and they read the codes. They found out that the o2 sensors were complaining about the rich fuel mixture (good thing). Consulted with NVA-AV6, and apparently this is an issue with the AEM FIC unable to "control" that setting. Anyone had this issue before?

setup:
- C/T Engineering supercharger kit.
- AEM methanol/water injection kit installed inline with the Snow Performance Solenoid valve. Running 50/50 mixture with the smallest spray nozzle.
- AEM FIC and modified extension harness by NVA-AV6.
- ATLP J-Pipe, race-pipe, and full catback. Had to add in MagnaFlow resonator, because the wife was complaining about the drone.

Thanks!!!
Old 12-03-2009, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by c2pid
Just got the AEM FIC installed and tuned for an S/C'ed '05 5AT. The CEL came on the next day. Brought it back to the dealer and they read the codes. They found out that the o2 sensors were complaining about the rich fuel mixture (good thing). Consulted with NVA-AV6, and apparently this is an issue with the AEM FIC unable to "control" that setting. Anyone had this issue before?

setup:
- C/T Engineering supercharger kit.
- AEM methanol/water injection kit installed inline with the Snow Performance Solenoid valve. Running 50/50 mixture with the smallest spray nozzle.
- AEM FIC and modified extension harness by NVA-AV6.
- ATLP J-Pipe, race-pipe, and full catback. Had to add in MagnaFlow resonator, because the wife was complaining about the drone.

Thanks!!!
Too rich under normal driving isn't good. Besides fuel economy, you'll have more cylinder and ring wear if it consistantly runs rich. At WOT, it's good to a point as long as you don't go overboard.

Will it throw a check engine light with normal driving and no full throttle or only with full throttle?
Old 12-03-2009, 03:36 PM
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^^ Normal driving. Never came on when I went home that night. The drive was about 30 minutes. There was no WOT cuz the traffic was heavy. The next day I started the car and the CEL came on within 2 minutes, and never went away. Went back to the tuner yesterday, and not sure what he did, but it's gone now. He talked to NVA-AV6 on the phone, and that's when I found out about the issue of the AEM FIC cannot control/take over the o2 sensor settings?
Old 12-03-2009, 03:57 PM
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You still have your cats in place, right...buy a set of o2 sensor extensions (the fittings, not wires), the same ones the cat deletes come with. This will pull the o2 sensors out of the exhaust flow, and most likely won't throw the CEL.

This sounds more like a tuning issue. What are your ARFs under normal driving?
It seems like its dumping fuel at low rpm...or it could've even been some fuel build up, enough to trigger the o2 to set off the CEL at start up.
F/IC doesnt have any control over the o2 sensors cause they run in closed loop (till about 3000 rpm) and other than that, just check cat efficiency.

Usually an o2 code tries to reset itself. After a few cycles, if the prob is still there, the CEL will remain on, if the prob isn't there, it will go off.

Dont get all paranoid about it, im sure its nothing serious.

Most ppl who have the supercharger, also have cat delets (if not everyone who has a sc) and they come with the o2 simul....same thing i just mentioned above, which pulls the o2's outta the exhaust stream, and they never see a CEL associated with this issue.
Old 12-03-2009, 07:44 PM
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Thank you for the tip! From the half-ass dyno graph, I am reading the AFR of 11.xx during normal speeds (37-59 mph)


I need to find myself a set of pre-cat deletes. They're currently going for $1K on RV-6's website. And my arse still hurting after paying "the tuner" some good coin.

Originally Posted by Opel
You still have your cats in place, right...buy a set of o2 sensor extensions (the fittings, not wires), the same ones the cat deletes come with. This will pull the o2 sensors out of the exhaust flow, and most likely won't throw the CEL.

This sounds more like a tuning issue. What are your ARFs under normal driving?
It seems like its dumping fuel at low rpm...or it could've even been some fuel build up, enough to trigger the o2 to set off the CEL at start up.
F/IC doesnt have any control over the o2 sensors cause they run in closed loop (till about 3000 rpm) and other than that, just check cat efficiency.

Usually an o2 code tries to reset itself. After a few cycles, if the prob is still there, the CEL will remain on, if the prob isn't there, it will go off.

Dont get all paranoid about it, im sure its nothing serious.

Most ppl who have the supercharger, also have cat delets (if not everyone who has a sc) and they come with the o2 simul....same thing i just mentioned above, which pulls the o2's outta the exhaust stream, and they never see a CEL associated with this issue.
Old 12-03-2009, 07:51 PM
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he has them for $309. i see that $999 but i dont know what that is.
Old 12-03-2009, 08:12 PM
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rv-6 puts the $999 whenever the product is not being produced or when it is out of stock, i paid somewhere arround 3 bills for mine
Old 12-03-2009, 08:35 PM
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Ahhh...3 bills is much easier to swallow! Let me go poke around...Thanks guys!
Old 12-03-2009, 08:35 PM
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afr looks rich. but not too rich. 11.8 is as low as it should go. no lower.

na these cars like 13.5
Old 12-03-2009, 09:04 PM
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Originally Posted by phee
afr looks rich. but not too rich. 11.8 is as low as it should go. no lower.

na these cars like 13.5
in the 11's under WOT with boost is good, and about what it should be...but not under normal driving...it is TOO rich when your simply pulling outta your driveway with 11.5:1 AFR
Old 12-03-2009, 09:11 PM
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so what should the AFR's SHOULD be at idle, and under normal driving?

Originally Posted by Opel
in the 11's under WOT with boost is good, and about what it should be...but not under normal driving...it is TOO rich when your simply pulling outta your driveway with 11.5:1 AFR
Old 12-03-2009, 09:29 PM
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I think the $309 price is the REPAIRED v2's.

"Made with brand new V2 precat deletes that had misaligned flanges. The pipes were cut and a stainless steel coupler was TIG welded in place to correct the problem. These will include all hardware and have same warranty as the normal V2 precat deletes."

And the "good" one is going for $999, but out of stock. What is the normal pricing for a set of non-repaired V2's??

Originally Posted by InFaMouSLink
he has them for $309. i see that $999 but i dont know what that is.
Originally Posted by craigtl35
rv-6 puts the $999 whenever the product is not being produced or when it is out of stock, i paid somewhere arround 3 bills for mine
Old 12-03-2009, 09:30 PM
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Originally Posted by c2pid
so what should the AFR's SHOULD be at idle, and under normal driving?
not below 13, normal and stop and go traffic...14.7 at highway cruise lol.

its how you drive though...a sudden stomp on the gass pedal for a few secs will get u down to 12, but if you're light on the throttle, and driving pretty normal, you should not see 11s is all im saying, and all the way down to low rpm..(i can drive normal through all gears from below 3000 rpm)

like i said...below 3000 rpm, the car runs under a closed loop, maintaining very very efficient AFR and applying its ULEV thing...then after 3000 its open loop...then its WIDEBAND all the way to redline. So what that means, the o2 sensors will pick up any little stupid richness.

You should, (if you dont already have one) get a wideband o2 sensor and gauge
Old 12-04-2009, 10:13 AM
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Thank you all for your inputs!! I ordered my pre-cat deletes last night, and will get it re-tuned after. Man I love the support/advises on this forum....

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