Boost Cooler- Install ?s and Pros vs Cons
Boost Cooler- Install ?s and Pros vs Cons
Ok so I am newly SC and have the Snow boost cooler in the garage.
So how hard is it to install 1-10?
Also is it worth it? The place that installed the SC did not recommed it unless I was running it hard and said it could cause trouble.
Miles on car- 39K
Miles on SC- 21K
AT 06
So how hard is it to install 1-10?
Also is it worth it? The place that installed the SC did not recommed it unless I was running it hard and said it could cause trouble.
Miles on car- 39K
Miles on SC- 21K
AT 06
I just read the installation instructions and it says "Tech Tip:Introducing Water/Methanol before 4-5 psi boost could result in quenched combustion and engine misfire"
Doesnt the S/C only put out 4-5psi?
Doesnt the S/C only put out 4-5psi?
It raising octane therefore allowing more timing under boost,The problem is if it would fail and the ecu doesnt pull the timing fast enough a piston could get melted very fast.I had one on my evo for a while and found it easier to mix it 4 gallons of c16 every fill up.
Great question I have the same situation
I to have snow boost kit stage 1 and wanting to install. I called snow and excellerate to see what sorta guess work I could come up with. The shop close by wants $400 to install ouch! yeah so I believe the best way is to tie into the windshield wiper reservior using a tee in order to supply pump as well still use wipers with fluid. So I'm guessing pull the reservoir out or while its jacked up goin through the inner fender, ohh did a mention I think I was told the bumper might even have to come off, even though it supposedly unclips and pops off sorta easy. Also snow said to se hand pump or compressor to set screw adjustment for amount of injection so you know it comes on at the safe boost level I think the comptech SC puts out 5 or 6 psi boost
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I was hoping a boost cooler might make the surging go away. I know there are people running a cooler, we just need to find them. For some reason I think the heat causes most of the surging.
you'll never receive the full benefits of meth injection, without running any type of engine management to adjust a/f and timing etc,..
otherwise, its will run pig rich IMO.. hence why the few that were using it, were burning out their cats prematurally. so it might do more harm than good =/
otherwise, its will run pig rich IMO.. hence why the few that were using it, were burning out their cats prematurally. so it might do more harm than good =/
Originally Posted by 04accordcpe
you'll never receive the full benefits of meth injection, without running any type of engine management to adjust a/f and timing etc,..
otherwise, its will run pig rich IMO.. hence why the few that were using it, were burning out their cats prematurally. so it might do more harm than good =/
otherwise, its will run pig rich IMO.. hence why the few that were using it, were burning out their cats prematurally. so it might do more harm than good =/
Originally Posted by 04accordcpe
you'll never receive the full benefits of meth injection, without running any type of engine management to adjust a/f and timing etc,..
otherwise, its will run pig rich IMO.. hence why the few that were using it, were burning out their cats prematurally. so it might do more harm than good =/
otherwise, its will run pig rich IMO.. hence why the few that were using it, were burning out their cats prematurally. so it might do more harm than good =/
Originally Posted by Hi speed
Do you have any surging with the engine management you are using?
Originally Posted by CBP TL-S
If you have a TL modded enough to be running methanol injection why in the world would you even leave the cats on to begin with ?
anyways, catless or not, you still need some sort of EMS to take full advantage of the meth injection. the comptech ACM wont cut it. besides, using it for the sole purpose of cooling the IAT is a waste IMO.
I think the water/meth would be great for a supercharged TL.
The TLs been proven to run on the lean side at WOT when stock, they need more fuel with the blower.
Timing is also nearly too aggressive without the blower. The extra octane would be nice.
I don't think the methanol has been proven to be the problem with cat failure. Seems like the failures that I saw were due to procats' inferior product.
The little roots blower even at 5psi still puts out a ton of heat. In my research on my own car, it doesn't take a lot of methanol to get a decent cooling effect.
I'm not familiar with the Snow kits but I would make sure it's progressive and has "set on" and "ramp up" adjustments. Start out very conservative and tune, tune, tune, and you will be very happy with the results. At only 5psi and roughly 350 crank hp, you don't need much methanol.
If your kit can take it (pump, seals, and lines), I highly suggest straight methanol and forget the water. Been there done that.
FWIW, Alkycontrol has some very good products.
The TLs been proven to run on the lean side at WOT when stock, they need more fuel with the blower.
Timing is also nearly too aggressive without the blower. The extra octane would be nice.
I don't think the methanol has been proven to be the problem with cat failure. Seems like the failures that I saw were due to procats' inferior product.
The little roots blower even at 5psi still puts out a ton of heat. In my research on my own car, it doesn't take a lot of methanol to get a decent cooling effect.
I'm not familiar with the Snow kits but I would make sure it's progressive and has "set on" and "ramp up" adjustments. Start out very conservative and tune, tune, tune, and you will be very happy with the results. At only 5psi and roughly 350 crank hp, you don't need much methanol.
If your kit can take it (pump, seals, and lines), I highly suggest straight methanol and forget the water. Been there done that.
FWIW, Alkycontrol has some very good products.
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