Auto Transmision Woes...
#1
Auto Transmision Woes...
I am obviously kicking myself in the @ss for getting my Type-S in automatic. I know there is nothing I can do now other then sell the car, but since I put a decent amount of money into, it looks like I will be with her for a few more years. Anyway the main reason for my post is to ask and see if there is something available to make the shifts quicker when in "manual" mode. The paddle shifters are REALLLLL slow. Its nowhere near as quick as its competitors. Which leads me to ask, why the hell hasn't anything been developed to improve this? I mean I'm not greedy because NJ has a shitload of traffic so 75% of the time I leave the computer to make the shifts for me. But that other 25% of the time when I want to have fun, it takes away from the car being fun, or should I say, more fun to drive. So since everything I've learned has pretty much came from Acurazine, I wanted to see if you guys new anything about how to help with my complaints.
#2
i just did a 3x3 with amsoil atf, and changed the 3rd and 4th gear pressure switches, seems to shift alot better and faster now, and from what i have read the less friction modifiers or whatever their called helps protect the transmission im sure someone can elaborate on why this is good.
theirs alot on this subject though so a search might come in handy
theirs alot on this subject though so a search might come in handy
#3
Safety Car
Racing ATF (click here)
I am not implying that racing ATF will eliminate the lag while in SportShift mode (paddle shifters), but the racing ATF should help to some small extent.
I am not implying that racing ATF will eliminate the lag while in SportShift mode (paddle shifters), but the racing ATF should help to some small extent.
#6
BANNED
iTrader: (33)
is there any REAL difference between the redline d4 & redline race fluid?
i've been wondering the same thing as OP. is one really better than the other?
i've been wondering the same thing as OP. is one really better than the other?
#7
Safety Car
Both D4 and Racing start off as the same fluid. Then, the D4 has friction modifiers added to it. The D4 and Racing may have slightly different levels of others additives, such as conditioners and detergents.
In regards to the paragraph above, both D4 and Racing are very similar. Both started life in the same vat... so to speak. Then one went this way and the other went that way to receive their final tweaking.
But do not underestimate the negative impact that the friction modifier will have on the life and performance of your transmission. The friction modifier is there for two reasons.
One purpose of the friction modifier is to make the transmission shifts so soft that you will not feel the shifts. If you value the transmission life more than the imperceptible shifts, then I recommend that you forego the friction modifier and buy the racing atf.
The other reason for the friction modifier is to prevent shuddering. Shuddering occurs when the transmission (converter is inclusive in this case) is unable to engage the clutch surfaces without excessive grabbing, which cause a jerkiness/shuddering. Our TL trans does not have this issue. Therefore, we do not need to rely on the friction modifiers to prevent this shuddering.
In regards to the paragraph above, both D4 and Racing are very similar. Both started life in the same vat... so to speak. Then one went this way and the other went that way to receive their final tweaking.
But do not underestimate the negative impact that the friction modifier will have on the life and performance of your transmission. The friction modifier is there for two reasons.
One purpose of the friction modifier is to make the transmission shifts so soft that you will not feel the shifts. If you value the transmission life more than the imperceptible shifts, then I recommend that you forego the friction modifier and buy the racing atf.
The other reason for the friction modifier is to prevent shuddering. Shuddering occurs when the transmission (converter is inclusive in this case) is unable to engage the clutch surfaces without excessive grabbing, which cause a jerkiness/shuddering. Our TL trans does not have this issue. Therefore, we do not need to rely on the friction modifiers to prevent this shuddering.
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#8
BANNED
iTrader: (33)
^so it looks like the redline racing ATF is the way to go. thanks for the explanation on that Inaccurate!
#9
Burning Brakes
#10
I feel as if it IS in the electronics rather then the tranny fluid, hence why I proposed this topic. I was wondering if there had been any solution/modifications do help the electronics. But after reading some posts, I can see that the only option I have is going with the racing fluid. Anyways, thanks for the input guys.
#11
Team Owner
For what it's worth, the few times I have had mine in manual mode in first, when it makes the shift to second gear on it's own I see the number on the dash turn to "2" and half a second later it shifts with the same lag the sport shift has. I think during normal driving in auto the ECU still leads the trans in order to get the correct shift points. I assume the signal is sent instantly so is it in the solenoids or is it hydraulic? My guess is it's not hydraulic because many of the old non electonic transmissions were so responsive it felt like they read your mind.
#12
N0w $hiftinG N/A
IF U WANT A STICK just convert it like how im doing if you love it so much im guna put up updates n exactly how much it cost from the dealrship for me i was quoted 2300 but im shoppin round for parts to save some buck i think ill be the first to do this
#13
who said anything about a M/T?
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