Auto trans upgrade
#2
All motor
There was a turbo TL 5AT on this site, believe there still is. Replace the pressure switches and you should be fine. Or swap a 6 speed.
#6
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
^if you've read the turbo thread; you'll notice that the few people that have 500+ hp swapped out the auto tranny and went to the 6mt route.
even then; they were breaking gears in the 6mt.
The auto trans upgrade you are looking for is a 6mt swap.
BUTT then you still would be breaking gears.
in the turbo thread; there is a group buy to get better and stronger gears for the 6MT.
How do i know all of this?
I read the turbo thread.
even then; they were breaking gears in the 6mt.
The auto trans upgrade you are looking for is a 6mt swap.
BUTT then you still would be breaking gears.
in the turbo thread; there is a group buy to get better and stronger gears for the 6MT.
How do i know all of this?
I read the turbo thread.
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#8
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
^yeah, well. good luck.
Dont you think the gentlemen that pioneered the turbo +auto would have found that option already?
if you read the turbo thread(like ive been asking for the 600th time) you'll learn that they exhausted their auto trans options...and the only thing to do is go 6mt.
Dont you think the gentlemen that pioneered the turbo +auto would have found that option already?
if you read the turbo thread(like ive been asking for the 600th time) you'll learn that they exhausted their auto trans options...and the only thing to do is go 6mt.
#11
Moderator
iTrader: (1)
you can either take that information and use it or you could pioneer yourself.
it sounds like you dont want to take the same path as them.
that means you need to carve out your own path.
#14
lol.
anyways, is comptech sc an option
anyways, is comptech sc an option
#15
18psi
iTrader: (7)
400whp is roughly the limit the for the 5AT. during tuning and coming up on 450whp the trans developed what appeared to be a slip in the in 3rd gear towards the upper rpm range. still unknown if it was actual hard part failure or some type of electrical issue. reason being is that it only happened under full throttle. partial throttle there was no slippage.
my calculations after all was said and done suggested that the drive train loss for the auto and big power was around 25%...and that number would keep going higher the more power we made. math was based off a given psi and timing. after the 6spd swap was done and the same psi/timing was used, the power to the wheels went up big time.
the tq converter just couldnt put the power to the floor.
I have a re-stalled/built tq converter from IPT performance for sale if your interested.
If boosting your auto is the route your going then keep the power around 400 at the wheels and upgrade the tq converter with a higher stall to get you into the power band much quicker. stock stall speed is 2100 and my converter is 3000. still completely streetable and still locks up on the highway.
i could go on for days about the auto trans and big power. bottom line, keep the power below 400, new pressure switches. type F fluid is madatory (i always used amsoil super shift, same viscosity as oem and would not flare like straight redline fluid) and add a trans cooler
edit - im still a firm believer in increasing line pressure in the auto would hold more power. stock clutches never burned up and the fluid was never burnt either. figure out a way to manipulate line pressure and youll hold more power.
my calculations after all was said and done suggested that the drive train loss for the auto and big power was around 25%...and that number would keep going higher the more power we made. math was based off a given psi and timing. after the 6spd swap was done and the same psi/timing was used, the power to the wheels went up big time.
the tq converter just couldnt put the power to the floor.
I have a re-stalled/built tq converter from IPT performance for sale if your interested.
If boosting your auto is the route your going then keep the power around 400 at the wheels and upgrade the tq converter with a higher stall to get you into the power band much quicker. stock stall speed is 2100 and my converter is 3000. still completely streetable and still locks up on the highway.
i could go on for days about the auto trans and big power. bottom line, keep the power below 400, new pressure switches. type F fluid is madatory (i always used amsoil super shift, same viscosity as oem and would not flare like straight redline fluid) and add a trans cooler
edit - im still a firm believer in increasing line pressure in the auto would hold more power. stock clutches never burned up and the fluid was never burnt either. figure out a way to manipulate line pressure and youll hold more power.
Last edited by libert69; 04-29-2013 at 11:54 AM.
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Brennan8 (04-29-2013)
#16
Team Owner
I agree with Bert.
First you have to define "stronger". No one has broken a hard part that I'm aware of. The problem comes from slipping clutches.
Type F fluid and pressure switches are all we can do to help the clutches from slipping and it works well as evidenced by Bert's high mileage 5at handling 400whp very well.
I agree that added line pressure needs to happen. I've almost got it done but I stopped working on it since the IRS decided to steal from me again.
Once we get the clutches to stop slipping, and the power levels rise, it will eventually start breaking hard parts. The auto has the potential to be stronger than the manual if for no other reason than less shock due to the converter.
I agree with Bert, get a 3,000 stall converter, it will make a huge difference off the start and you likely won't fall out of vtec on the 3-4 shift assuming it's not locked.
I highly recommend if someone was going to build a high power auto and do a converter, get with one of the big time converter companies. Let them cut it open and do it right. You will get a MUCH more efficient converter meaning more power to the ground and less power being converted to heat. Also, the use of an 8" or 9" converter will make the engine rev very quickly. My usually slow revving GN revs quicker than just about any modern car because of the low weight of the torque converter. It helps acceleration and at the risk of sounding like a ricer, it sounds better when it revs very fast and drops very fast. Spend the money on the torque converter, it will pay off in several ways.
First you have to define "stronger". No one has broken a hard part that I'm aware of. The problem comes from slipping clutches.
Type F fluid and pressure switches are all we can do to help the clutches from slipping and it works well as evidenced by Bert's high mileage 5at handling 400whp very well.
I agree that added line pressure needs to happen. I've almost got it done but I stopped working on it since the IRS decided to steal from me again.
Once we get the clutches to stop slipping, and the power levels rise, it will eventually start breaking hard parts. The auto has the potential to be stronger than the manual if for no other reason than less shock due to the converter.
I agree with Bert, get a 3,000 stall converter, it will make a huge difference off the start and you likely won't fall out of vtec on the 3-4 shift assuming it's not locked.
I highly recommend if someone was going to build a high power auto and do a converter, get with one of the big time converter companies. Let them cut it open and do it right. You will get a MUCH more efficient converter meaning more power to the ground and less power being converted to heat. Also, the use of an 8" or 9" converter will make the engine rev very quickly. My usually slow revving GN revs quicker than just about any modern car because of the low weight of the torque converter. It helps acceleration and at the risk of sounding like a ricer, it sounds better when it revs very fast and drops very fast. Spend the money on the torque converter, it will pay off in several ways.
The following users liked this post:
Brennan8 (04-29-2013)
#18
You're expecting everyone to bow to your every whim. Nobody's interested in that.
The following users liked this post:
EvilVirus (04-29-2013)
The following users liked this post:
Brennan8 (04-30-2013)
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