ATLP Base Exhaust final prototype is in.
I admit I jumped with my response about getting rid of it just cause I was fired up about that stripped precat & a few other things. I am going to drill and tap that precat before I do any install of the exhaust. Bear with me for some video's as I work nights and weekends, have school and play a few sports during the week so I don't have a ton of time.
Yes they do offer a resonated version, however there is no option at checkout for it, I spoke to Mike directly and requested one be put on. It is an 18" so I don't think I'll have any noticible drone judging by what you non res guys say about it. Hopefully next week maybe monday I can get it installed and get some clips up.
Yes they do offer a resonated version, however there is no option at checkout for it, I spoke to Mike directly and requested one be put on. It is an 18" so I don't think I'll have any noticible drone judging by what you non res guys say about it. Hopefully next week maybe monday I can get it installed and get some clips up.
People often don't have the opportunity to listen to a particular exhaust and try it out for a few days to ensure that it's going to suit their individual taste and style. It's pretty asinine to rip on the people who it's not working out for just because it's working out for you; loudness preference is very subjective.
And I don't see where anyone has questioned the product's quality. Build quality and drone are two wholly different things.
And I don't see where anyone has questioned the product's quality. Build quality and drone are two wholly different things.
The Excelerate ones stick out a bit more. I didn't like it at first, but now I do. I don't think the look of round tips in a square cutout is that bad.
I agree, its not terrible but the ATLP tips are cleaner loooking.
Looks good to me but, I can hear a certain individual now:
"Did you dyno before", or, "You need at least 12 consecutive pulls to really get a #", or, "That dyno typically adds 47 hp".
Hope my 5AT is close to that number with pre-cats, pulley, thermal spacers and about 100 lbs weight reduction.
"Did you dyno before", or, "You need at least 12 consecutive pulls to really get a #", or, "That dyno typically adds 47 hp".
Hope my 5AT is close to that number with pre-cats, pulley, thermal spacers and about 100 lbs weight reduction.
Yeah, I was speaking more of dragstrip about the weight loss.
The break in is no joke. Sound has settled a bit and the engine has really come alive recently. Logged about 300 miles so far.
The break in is no joke. Sound has settled a bit and the engine has really come alive recently. Logged about 300 miles so far.
dude, I floored it from about 20 yesterday and the girl spun so fast and growled so loud that I put a 2nd hand on the wheel to comfort myself.
I'm getting the backfire pop during wide open 1 --> 2 shifts!
I'm getting the backfire pop during wide open 1 --> 2 shifts!

PM'd you
Raj the actual ct mufflers and tips are rsonated as well, that is why it purs. I had a stock res and 2 aero's on my greddy and it still droned like a mother. Its the design of the muffler and I dont believe resonator will make a difference. You should have puicked up jnc's ct or just get some nice tips and your good.
Raj the actual ct mufflers and tips are rsonated as well, that is why it purs. I had a stock res and 2 aero's on my greddy and it still droned like a mother. Its the design of the muffler and I dont believe resonator will make a difference. You should have puicked up jnc's ct or just get some nice tips and your good.
Fawk!
Sooo, climbed under the car to remove the heat shields above the rear muffler packs and anything else that felt loose. Heat shields came off and I decided to check all the bolts on the new setup, too.
La-da-di...what the? Shit!!! The y-pipe and long pipe connection had a visible gap in it. Closer inspection shows one bolt very loose and the other hanging in there but with no nut anymore. Well, that's not good.
Quick run to Pep Boys for washers, lock washers and a couple nuts. Don't know about you guys but this section of the Base didn't have washers and lock washers provided like the muffler pack sections. They did have washer-type nuts but I air ratcheted these plus a strong pull and they didn't hold. Also used loc-tite this time, which I should have done initially. I also started her up and checked all the flanges for air leaks.
OK, forget everything I've said about 'low RPM tinny sound and rattles'. Low RPM does resonate through cabin a bit, but there is zero rattle and it's a nice continuous growl now. Cruise RPM's are quieter, I guess like it should be. Not sure if engine responds better yet - raining bad for the test drive.
Did everybody else get only 4 sets of washers/lock washers? If your shit is buzzing and vibing bad at low RPM's, get under there and check all the flanges. Oh, those heat shields were the source of my rattling and can be taking off without removing mufflers.
La-da-di...what the? Shit!!! The y-pipe and long pipe connection had a visible gap in it. Closer inspection shows one bolt very loose and the other hanging in there but with no nut anymore. Well, that's not good.
Quick run to Pep Boys for washers, lock washers and a couple nuts. Don't know about you guys but this section of the Base didn't have washers and lock washers provided like the muffler pack sections. They did have washer-type nuts but I air ratcheted these plus a strong pull and they didn't hold. Also used loc-tite this time, which I should have done initially. I also started her up and checked all the flanges for air leaks.
OK, forget everything I've said about 'low RPM tinny sound and rattles'. Low RPM does resonate through cabin a bit, but there is zero rattle and it's a nice continuous growl now. Cruise RPM's are quieter, I guess like it should be. Not sure if engine responds better yet - raining bad for the test drive.
Did everybody else get only 4 sets of washers/lock washers? If your shit is buzzing and vibing bad at low RPM's, get under there and check all the flanges. Oh, those heat shields were the source of my rattling and can be taking off without removing mufflers.
www.heeltoeauto.com that is marcus's site and he is selling ATLP products. Oh, if you are in Canada i think it's 664 racing, www.664racing.com IIRC. Check on www.AcuraTLparts.com to confirm.
I don't know how much of a surplus there is but I bet it's only 2-3 if that many. No modifications needed. this is a plug and play made for our base tl's.
I don't know how much of a surplus there is but I bet it's only 2-3 if that many. No modifications needed. this is a plug and play made for our base tl's.
Sooo, climbed under the car to remove the heat shields above the rear muffler packs and anything else that felt loose. Heat shields came off and I decided to check all the bolts on the new setup, too.
La-da-di...what the? Shit!!! The y-pipe and long pipe connection had a visible gap in it. Closer inspection shows one bolt very loose and the other hanging in there but with no nut anymore. Well, that's not good.
Quick run to Pep Boys for washers, lock washers and a couple nuts. Don't know about you guys but this section of the Base didn't have washers and lock washers provided like the muffler pack sections. They did have washer-type nuts but I air ratcheted these plus a strong pull and they didn't hold. Also used loc-tite this time, which I should have done initially. I also started her up and checked all the flanges for air leaks.
OK, forget everything I've said about 'low RPM tinny sound and rattles'. Low RPM does resonate through cabin a bit, but there is zero rattle and it's a nice continuous growl now. Cruise RPM's are quieter, I guess like it should be. Not sure if engine responds better yet - raining bad for the test drive.
Did everybody else get only 4 sets of washers/lock washers? If your shit is buzzing and vibing bad at low RPM's, get under there and check all the flanges. Oh, those heat shields were the source of my rattling and can be taking off without removing mufflers.
La-da-di...what the? Shit!!! The y-pipe and long pipe connection had a visible gap in it. Closer inspection shows one bolt very loose and the other hanging in there but with no nut anymore. Well, that's not good.
Quick run to Pep Boys for washers, lock washers and a couple nuts. Don't know about you guys but this section of the Base didn't have washers and lock washers provided like the muffler pack sections. They did have washer-type nuts but I air ratcheted these plus a strong pull and they didn't hold. Also used loc-tite this time, which I should have done initially. I also started her up and checked all the flanges for air leaks.
OK, forget everything I've said about 'low RPM tinny sound and rattles'. Low RPM does resonate through cabin a bit, but there is zero rattle and it's a nice continuous growl now. Cruise RPM's are quieter, I guess like it should be. Not sure if engine responds better yet - raining bad for the test drive.
Did everybody else get only 4 sets of washers/lock washers? If your shit is buzzing and vibing bad at low RPM's, get under there and check all the flanges. Oh, those heat shields were the source of my rattling and can be taking off without removing mufflers.
damn, I still have a metal vibration under hard throttle in the low rpm range. Very hard to produce in Park/Neutral, which is making trouble shooting difficult. Definitely sounds like it's coming from the rear of the car but I know that this can be misleading from inside the cabin. Already aced the rear muffler heat shields, which definitely had the potential to rattle. There's one shield left recessed in a well about mid vehicle but it seemed very stable when I tapped around it.
Anybody successfully locate and isolate an exhaust rattle under the car? I'm starting to wonder if it's in the tips/muffler packs.
Anybody successfully locate and isolate an exhaust rattle under the car? I'm starting to wonder if it's in the tips/muffler packs.
Located my rattle for all those that don't care. It's coming from the muffler's themselves. Not sure if it's in the can or where the dual outlets hit the tip. It's on both cans at around 2500 rpm with heavy to WOT. Currently talking to Mike about a solution.
Also, looks like Aero Exhaust is going out of business. Been trying to locate the AR 25 resonator all morning and most places are out of stock. Nothing in the Black Market, either. Might have found one in stock.
What are other decent resonators?
Also, looks like Aero Exhaust is going out of business. Been trying to locate the AR 25 resonator all morning and most places are out of stock. Nothing in the Black Market, either. Might have found one in stock.
What are other decent resonators?
Is the Comptech mid muff straight through or is it chambered? Also it looks short maybe a 10"? I don't see anything wrong with using a 14" though. Did a little searching on jegs and there are a few that I think would fit. Magnaflow ultra flow, Hooker Aero chambered to name a few. I dont' think the chambered would kill much HP but would maybe boost TQ a little.
Last edited by 05BlkTL; Jun 9, 2009 at 12:20 AM.
Located my rattle for all those that don't care. It's coming from the muffler's themselves. Not sure if it's in the can or where the dual outlets hit the tip. It's on both cans at around 2500 rpm with heavy to WOT. Currently talking to Mike about a solution.
Also, looks like Aero Exhaust is going out of business. Been trying to locate the AR 25 resonator all morning and most places are out of stock. Nothing in the Black Market, either. Might have found one in stock.
What are other decent resonators?
Also, looks like Aero Exhaust is going out of business. Been trying to locate the AR 25 resonator all morning and most places are out of stock. Nothing in the Black Market, either. Might have found one in stock.
What are other decent resonators?
*UPDATE*
installed Aero AR25 resonator. No mo' rattle. Toned down the note just a tad. I love it now. p.s. mine rattled because of pre-cat deletes, j-pipe and test pipe.
oh, I think Aero is going out of business. so, if you want this resonator better get on the hunt.
installed Aero AR25 resonator. No mo' rattle. Toned down the note just a tad. I love it now. p.s. mine rattled because of pre-cat deletes, j-pipe and test pipe.
oh, I think Aero is going out of business. so, if you want this resonator better get on the hunt.
Really if you are on the fence about this exhaust, you should go for it. I ordered mine, worried about it being to loud. But really, the tone is very nice and the drone isnt bad for me at all (i do have dynamat in my trunk and back seat though). I don't have a j-pipe or anything else either, so I think that helps keep the exhaust toned down as well. Overall, the gains are very noticeable and I have gotten a ton of complements


i think they are awesome and not overly done. would be even betta if the stuck out 1-2" more tho 

