Wolks War

iTrader: (1)

Sorry to bother you again with noob questions that might have been already answer in some thread. A tuning shop( total tuning) who specialize in Honda guaranteed me that I could extract more power with the Apexi Neo. They easly did it on an J32A2 I know the managmenet have been highly modified since, but still a Honda....

I have a used one, so it would be 0$ install + dyno tuning $$$$.

In this thread: apexi vafc2 harness from joeyack722 people say that the ECU would reprogram it self after I while.

Since I don't have a wide band installed in my car, does it mean that if the shop is able to tune the A/F with the Neo it would be ok on their dyno but after a couple days I would have threw my money in the garbage without even noticing it???

I would defenetly go with the JandR ECU, but I'm not planning on going FI.

PLZ Don't say I'm dumb, I'm just asking before acting

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

You can use OBDII to get the AFR and then have them dyno tune the neo. I was planing to do that. Also the ECU will also reprogram itself. You have to reset the car like once a week or once a month. Its good for fixing the AFR, but sides that nothing else you can really do.

Yonkers914

iTrader: (1)

try to find a used wide band there under $200 used and avoids a lot of hassle.

NAiL05

If your gonna buy a new one...If your gonna buy a used one I always tell my buddies to get a new sensor so the cost ends up being about the same if not very close.

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

isn't the TL sensors already wideband? It just don't have the hook up for the gauge?

NAiL05

It is in a sense but I do not think the gauge itself can pickup the signal. Its all the same universal sensor I know AEM/zeitronix use. I dunno about any other diff manufacturer.

Wolks War

iTrader: (1)

@Yonkers914: With your F/IC, did you had to reset your ECU once in while?????

bmeyer

iTrader: (3)

FWIW, the F/IC has the capability to alter the AFR signal that the ECU reads essentially allowing you to trick the car into thinking it's too rich or too lean which will keep the ECU happy when adding or subtracting fuel in the fuel tables. What this means is that if you add 10% fuel in the F/IC at 2000 RPMs, the factory ECU will see that additional 10% and subtract 10% from your fuel trims, which will negate the change you've just made. If you use the skewing functionality, you can tell the F/IC to send a skewed value that is -10% of what you're really running. That way, the ECU thinks that it's still at the ideal 14.7:1 AFR and that no alterations to the fuel trims are necessary.

The ECU reset should not be necessary when this function is used properly. (If you go this route, make sure you find a tuner that has experience setting up this function on the F/IC.)

If you have an OBD-II scanner and can read your short/long-term fuel trims, you'll see that adjustments to those two parameters are made within seconds, meaning that unless you could reset your ECU every second or so, resetting once a week really isn't doing you much good because those two values will go back to their offset values almost instantly. The ECU will, however, hone in on the perfect value as time goes by - but that change is relatively insignificant compared to the initial offset done right away. The only real solution is to get those trims as close to 0 as possible with the F/IC (even that's not perfect) or run a standalone ECU (like the one from J&R).

Also, the stock primary O2 sensors are indeed wideband. You can read the signal with any decent OBD-II scanner though the value will be in lambda.

Yonkers914

iTrader: (1)

no not at all

Wolks War

iTrader: (1)

Thx guys for the info, I'll think about it!!!!!!