Well i can see it now lol.


For now lol.

 

Lol! I’m hoping to keep that one as a Comptech car. Though someday I will complete the Comptech MP90 and May replace the standard Comptech MP62

 

My next step for the mid engine project is to buy a front clip. I will use the chassis and subframe and cut it to fit onto the back. This way I won’t need Any mount relocation. It will be about lining up the suspension and axle.

Will need a way to fix the wheels in place.

Because of the magnitude of work/welding involved, I cannot afford/trust a welder to do this work and do it correctly. So I will buy a good quality used welder and learn to weld.

 

Remember when I originally took measurements of the engine to fit in the rear for a potential dual engine project in summer of 2018? Everyone here doubted me. I wish they would continue that.

 

Learning to use a real hot glue gun will be rewarding. Be sure to invest in good rods, helmet and gases. You can try starting off with a used unit or a cheap lincoln electric one for rough work. Get some used cheap parts from junkyard to learn to weld on.

 

What would you recommend as a cost effective used one? I will buy all the right necessary gear as this is a long project. I have a lot of research to do in this realm. I’ll get different sizes of scrap metals from junk yard. Will also look for the exact type of metal and thickness I am welding on the car to get it down pat.

I would ideally like to weld my own custom exhaust in my turbo TL. Then the welder would pay for itself, I would get the needed welding experience, and it would be good easing into welding when it comes time to weld a mid engine, or two.

It would also be good because I can then replicate the turbo manifold systems.

 

Ever seen one of these? Happy to see someone benefitting from my labor of love.

This Saturn Vue it’s going to sound amazing!

Seems like just yesterday I was fretting about my Pranks S/C kit not fitting because
they sent Heeltoe the wrong Supercharger info to post on his website. It was of low quality anyhow.

 

 

Visited a buddy when I was in Florida. He’s swapping a J37a4(dual VTEC) into his Type-S 5AT. Afterwhich he will install an M90 and be a Florida man like Rockstar143.

He had a setback.

So he immediately purchased a new J37a4 to replace the other one.

 

^That sounds like an interesting build! Any links to it, or is he on a forum?

 

Which one the Saturn? I think he’s on IG

 

I spent a good deal of time on the hotel room balcony this morning on a mission to spot a 3G TL, of any year!

Made a fourth cup of coffee and just now stepped outside to check it out the cars in faint hopes. Didn’t even bring out the camera.

Then suddenly, a KBP rolls up to the stop light. Just in time for me to scramble inside for the phone and setup shop for a shot!

Guess people still love the 3G.

When I got my gem Type-S 6MT it was here in Bellevue, Wa. Where the Audi dealership manager told me, “this is the only place that sells more Audi and BMW than Honda and Toyota”. Which I replied, “Ya that’s great.”, as I counted out the cash for the sweet sweet two tone 6MT Type-S!

 

T minus 3 days!


It will be fun to someday pull up to cars and coffee, pop the hood and everyone wonders where the engine is.

 

Here is the Saturn Vue at work with MadMax M90 on the Intake manifold!

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=oL7WGG...ature=youtu.be

 

I'm here about the bumble bee that was beat but didn't happen but happened

 

LOL! He lost 55/60-135mph.

He was behind me, the slow car infront of us moved over and we both gunned it together as we had already had a couple cars move. We took off in sync. I pulled. Then about 100-115mph he stopped the pull and seemed to gain a slight bit. After 120 I was pulling again. There were cars in front of us at 135mph and I had to slam on the brakes!

It was good fun, we arrived back at my placeand he couldnt get over the supercharger whine. Whats funny is me and him planned to race my rotrex Type-s 6MT the day I was going to begin disassembling it. He chickened out and it never happened(would have been him because I already raced another bumble bee most of second and entire third gear and pulled the whole time). The day we raced few weeks ago was the day I began engine assembly

 

I believe you. I've messed around with plenty of vehicle with my TL and it held its ground. It's pretty comical that those posters are for "positive Acura vibes only" and still knock other Acura owners that contribute to the community and modify their vehicles.

 

The hype style of some of the guys in that thread seem like they work for Acura marketing. Acurazine is a great platform to spread the TLX Type-S hype for free.

And that’s okay.

It’s understandable to put down their best selling sedan to be able to sell more new units.

 

Got picked up by an NSX at the airport!

 

I replaced the NGK Platinum's with NGK Iridium's today and had another cop boot stick to the plug on #3 cylinder rear head.

I tried your method above Acura TL Builder a couple times; however, I could not get the 'purchase' needed to get that SOB out.

I was able to find a 3/8 drive 7/16 deep well socket that would just fit over the stem of the spark plug.


This is an example of what the boot looked like buried in the rear head spark plug cylinder.

I was able to gently wedge the outer surface of the socket down over the plug & into the COP boot. The first time was a failure;
however, I found joy on the second attempt.

Used the silicone dielectric grease and lubed them all up to avoid this hassle in the future.
There was victory; but, it was a PIA.

 

Good work Zeta! Sorry my technique didn’t work for you.

 

Pikes Peak

 

There’s the Bonneville Salt Flats fellas!

There were the strongest wind gusts I’ve driven in, my shoes almost blew away as I was putting them on.

Walking onto the flats, they weren’t the dry “cracked” consistency we are use to seeing. They were damp and mushy. Because I was alone and it was dark out, I divided it was too risky to drive on, though it was a 5 hour drive out of the way.

The TL was there though!

 

Ilya came over from Seattle to have a SPEC stage 3+ clutch and lightweight flywheel installed(Gerzand recommended). We are utilizing the Ukrainian brother technique, since we are both Ukrainian brothers, it should work.
Also going in is a new rear main seal. Thot it was a good time to practice on Ilyas car before I do the same to the TL Sport I just purchased from Truongthe. It’s a very nice weekend!



Carefully taking this beauty apart.



Making access to the 6MT transmission to push it out of the way to put in the clutch. This J35 has piston oil sprayers! Only on the J35A8!

 

Lining up the new 75a lower innovative mount.

Rear main seal is complete! Looking forward to doing this on my new TL Sport. Next up is the SPEC Clutch/Flywheel

 

The SPEC Stage 3+ 679trq Clutch/Flywheel ref# is in the bottom left hand corner if anyone is interested in running it. Buy from a reputable site.

 

This weekend I worked on an Acura TL-S 6MT ASPEC with 89k miles.

Parts replaced/ installed were:
- Rear main seal
- Spec Clutch/Lightweight flywheel
- Insane Shafts
- Motor oil
- MTF oil
- Radiator fluid

Took 30 hours not including 3 hours for food and Acura fluid parts run.
Apparently it takes much longer when you work very carefully as to not make Any damages while working on a car.


The SPEC clutch center whole was .2mm smaller than the required 36.6mm hole needed for the flywheel to fit onto to crankshaft. so at 2am I busted out the air compresor deremel and flat aluminum bit. Yes, used a dremel and got much better results than a machinist getting within spec on a Spec lightweight flywheel. I did not for a moment feel I had oblonged anything as I barely took a hair off and tapered it to naturlly fit into itself in the end inner end.

Utilizing the Ukrainian brother technique I was dumbfounded by how I was to have enough room to remove the clutch alignment tool without hitting the transmission input shaft when I put on the pressure plate. I got around this issue by putting a couple marks on the flywheel and clutch disk outer edge and then hand tightening the pressure plate onto the fly wheel with the clutch disk sandwiched between them. Then removing the alignement tool is safe while ensuring a correct fitment when reinstalling the tranny.

I then partially put the tranny on and kept the teeth of the flywheel exposed. I ensured the clutch disk and flywheel marker lines were still spot on and torqued the pressure plate to 19ft-lbs torque going through the starter hole and moving the clutch by using a flywheel counter traction tool to torque the pressure plate bolts.

This clutch is such an OEM feel and seems easier to engage from stop-start than OEM IMO.

Ilya was driving back home to seattle and said the navi backup wasnt working( I noticed that too when I test drove the car but it didnt register becaues I was tired and thought it was because he had no put in the navi codes. I told him I may have forgot a sensor plug and he confirmed one sensor plug was not plugged in when he returned home.

Besides the Navi sensor plug it was another job well(and carefully) done.

 

Sharpening the aluminum dremel bit

Placing fresh gray adhesive

For the love of the 3G!

Old clutch being removed

New clutch is in!

 

 

Ilya brought me a free 3G Type-S head and valve covers. Thanks man!

 

Taking time this weekend to dig into my new Acura TL 2005 6MT Sport to clean the weapon R intake filter. I planned to replace it with the K&N filter, but the price of the Weapon R is $265 on Endless RPM. So it stays.


I pulled a front and side mount from storage, but after inspection the side mount looks recently replaced.

Slave clutch looks recently replaced.

The overall condition of the car is great. No dash crack, ripped seats, Rust, smells(besides the MTF flowing out of the car). The engine bay seems great from up top!

 

Looks like someone forgot to remove the caliper holding bunjee cord. These Koni Orange shocks are sold as “budget friendly - Street oriented”. They hurt my back driving on them across the country. They bounce around wildly on corners which felt dangerous, but the straw was the front passenger shock is already blown and creaking.

Do yourself a favor and don’t buy these.


I am installing my 165k mile 08 Base coils. They are still in good shape. This is the lowest powered TL so it gets the softest coils that Acura made for the 3G(07-08 Base).

 

Motor oil flowing from Drain plug. Needs to be torqued or crush washer replaced.

Mystery oil is ALL over the undercarriage!

Axles and boots look in good condition. Those Konis are garbage.


So much oil it’s dripping off parts half way down the car. The driveway has oil drips the size of the whole car.


Oil/grime all over the rear stabilizer bar.

 

Ilya also brought me a one of his spare coin holders(missing on my TL Sport) and a tow hook plug($110 part). Thanks Ilya!


Brake pads and rotors are new.


Tires have 60% front, 70%+ in rear. About to rotate them.


Thank you Mr.T for using OEM motor oil and filter!

 

Y’all remember the PnP’d Comptech S/C I had on the 2008 Base Auto? It made 331whp.

This same one will make about 360whp on the new TL Sport as it’s a 6 speed(though the current Bosch injectors will
max our at 350whp).

Also reengineering the AEM meth/water system to make the charge more consistent and cooler by tapping the underbelly of the supercharger and placing the MAP sensor and meth jet there to have more than two feet of distance for the meth to mix with the charge are and have a greater cooling effect.

 

You are going to love driving that S/C'ed 6-speed.

Interested in seeing how you do that Meth mod to the S/C'er underbelly. Make sure to take lots of pictures.

 

I have been waiting so long to have a 6MT anything! Being able to make a musical instrument by harmonizing the car/clutch/Supercharger will be a thing of beauty.

 

I did my best to clean up all the oil and gunk, hopefully it won’t smell like burnt oil any longer.


The cam seal on the front head has a slight leak. Though the Comptech S/C mid-mount will fix that.


Here is the culprit of the leaking. The rear main seal is leaking badly. These pictures don’t show just how much. The white spots in the pictures are reflective glares of oil. When I do the Ukrainian brother clutch swap I’ll spend some time cleaning the entire clutch case area.

I will install a LUK OEM clutch kit when doing the rear main seal on this car.

 

^
I was going to say 'get that leak fixed' before installing the S/C'er; however, like always, you have it all planned out.

Here's the part # for the front camshaft thrust cover assembly, that's an easy one to fix.

91301-P8A-A00

 

@Truongthe mentioned in the ad when selling this car that it was in a rear end collision. It is biased on the right side. It was enough to widen the rear door gap on the left door.

The line between the taillight and trunk widened on the left side.

The taillight/trunk line widened on the right door.

There is a dent that is evident indication structural damage. This right rear quarter panel must be put on a frame rack and pulled back out.

The right rear door gap was narrowed, though all doors/trunk close as they should.

Here is a reference of my I undamaged M90 TL door on the same side.