_Camus_

Hi, my mods:
- Full exhaust
- Custom J pipe
- PCD
- No third cat
- AEM CAI

Did 236 whp / 215 wftlb SAE at 88 °F and 5100 ft of elevation, the car has 82 000 miles, was a dynojet. I don't know if this number is good, I was expecting 250 but I'm pleased with the result. Now my plan is to get the intake manifold/runners/TB ported and polished, maybe the lightweight pulleys and that's it, the ECU and the tune are way expensive and I doubt it worth the expense...

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

it's pretty hard to get to 250+
I'm sitting at 240whp with similar mods as you

_Camus_

I see, thanks for sharing, your TL is MT?

I forgot to add, the other time I went to another shop, they have a Dynocom and my car with the exact same mods did 217 wph, it was depressing, but after reading a lot of threads it seems that Dynojet is one of the best options, only a few people had used Dynocom. Also some people say that the shop I went, tune the dyno to give lower numbers so they can tune the cars and adjust the dyno to get more impressive results on the after run, I don't know what to believe on that regard.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

yep, I have three pedals in my TL. 2006 6MT!!!!

thats the funny thing with dyno results. you're not supposed to put weight on the numbers, rather it's a tool to help you see if your incremental mods helped or not. BECAUSE!!! they can be manipulated as there are TONS of different variables that come into play.

the proper way to figure out how fast you are is to run the quarter mile. Trap speed indicates how fast you are.

_Camus_

Good, only few people got the MT, on my town is the only one it seems. And yes, there are so many variables, for example the shop with the Dynocom it is indoors, bad air flow and the place start to get hotter over time.

The issue with 1/4 mile here is the elevation, we are at 5200 ft and my best time was 15.3 which is a very high time, I have seen here low 14s or even 13s high with slicks. And the track doesn't grab the trap speed, only ET and reaction time. I need to wait to go to the track at sea level to know how fast can go. What is your 1/4 mile time and trap speed? since we are relatively close on whp the numbers must be close as well.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

lol i never been to the track with my TL.
the ONE time I DID GO, I couldnt participate because I was wearing shorts....stupid track rules...

but my car isnt set up for the track any more.... I havent bought summer tires in a long time, and I slip and slide with these stupid all seasons I have now...
So, I guess my priorities have changed since I bought the car.
in 2010-2014, I was ALL ABOUT the go fast!
but i guess money got in the way, or the lack of money...lol and now I just want the car to be maintained and thats it. I havent modded it in a long long long time!

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

also, my clutch is slipping.
so, before i head to a track again, I would like to upgrade clutch to the XLR8 and lightweight fly wheel and get better tires.

_Camus_

I see!, if you go to the track post the times, would be a good reference ; I'll go next week to see how it does, I did 15.3 with the clutch also slipping in high gears/revs and I didn't have any mods, so.. I hop to get in the 14s.

I bought the Luk Excedy clutch and it is really good, I felt immediately how it pull harder on high gears. Didn't know that XLR8 also have a street clutch! I gues we reach a point where the mods gets very expensive and we can be happy with our cars, there are not FAST but somewhat quick and fun to drive. My goal is to get a 370z next year!

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

here's a 06 6MT who broke the 104MPH trap speed "barrier"

https://acurazine.com/forums/racing-...arrier-944686/


Barrier in quotes because we couldnt ever go past 103-104

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

well, I want to hold onto my TL for at least 4 more years.
I was abusing the fuck out of it from ~2010-2014 and it was always broken.

I'm learning to chill on the stop light to stop light abuse LOL

_Camus_

Wow! a TL on the 13 consistently, very impressive! That motivates me to buy the type s ECU and buy the Hondata! shifting at 7300 does a very good change, also would like to play with the vtec engagement point, the type s does at 5000 right, ours at 4800, should make a difference or maybe engange it before, at 4000...

All the week I drive like an old man, easy with the shifts at 2500 most of the time, really relaxed, but the thing is, every Wednesday is track day... I understand, having a MT with ~2XX~ to the wheels is tempting! I would also like to do a compression test to see how I messed up with the wear after the abuse I have given to it

accordlyfe

Those numbers aren't bad.

I made 230whp/215 torque in my av6 6 speed accord. This was all stock, hood closed and alot of variables against me.

With your mods, I would hope to be in the range of 245whp.

justnspace

iTrader: (1)

i think the goal of shifting vtec is to create a straight torque curve.
Acura did the type-s right with a vtec engagement of 5k as to straighten the torque curve as much as possible.
if you lower, i dont think you'll gain, you'll LOSE.
read up on the hondata threads

_Camus_

Hi! Is your accord J30 or J35?

On the VTEC Engagement point I think you are right, a fried of mine used a button to force the VTEC to kick in when he press it, turns out that under 4500 rpm the engine was very sluggish with the VTEC, this was a F23 engine, but it must have the same behavior with ours. What I would like to do is play between 4500 and 5000 to find the best spot for the mods I have, I mean, this would be empiric doing test and fail over and over.

TheTLProject

I am close with my current record in my auto :-p

screaminz28

iTrader: (1)

What was the temp when you dyno'd? The screen didn't show if that was SAE or STD. That can make a difference. The TL is VERY sensitive to heat and timing will be reduced. My 6MT dyno'd 240 whp stock, but it was good conditions, and I was able to ensure there was no knock or knock retard at all. If you don't have or get a Hondata, even a simple bluetooth datalogger can pick up knock and you'll know if you are pulling timing. Where are you located? I could tell the dyno wasn't in English so I wasn't sure if you are in the states or not. I was thinking Denver at first because of the elevation..

_Camus_

Hi! The temp of the air was between 88~90 °F and it was using SAE, I'm not in the US, I'm in Jalisco, Mexico. I'll try another pull in December when the weather is colder

nist7

OP,did you do a pre-mod baseline dyno? That would be more helpful to see how much gains you are getting with these mods.

_Camus_

No I did not stupid move on my side.. but I have it now for future mods.

pohljm

What kind of fuel can you get there? 91 or 93?

_Camus_

We got cheap 88 and the "premium" 91, however our fuel doesn't meet the requirements of the US, when I was near the border with Calexico, the US Fuel was way better than ours, lasted longer and the engine felt stronger, it's a shame we have this bad fuel.

screaminz28

iTrader: (1)

That will KILL performance on the TL. See if you can find some Xylene or octane booster, or even some unleaded race gas. That will bump performance up a good bit - as these motors are very knock sensitive.

accordlyfe

What's a good fuel additive or cleaner for the j series ?

screaminz28

iTrader: (1)

Torco - it's legit, not like most "octane boosters".

Torco Accelerator - It's not just an octane booster

It even gives a chart - to bump 10 gallons from 91 to 96 octane, you'd need 16 ounces. A 32 ounce bottle is 22.75 on Amazon, so .71 per ounce. A little over 11 bucks to get to 96 octane. What is our fuel tanks, 14 gallons? You could probably add 16 ounces to a tank and be close to 94 octane.

Not the cheapest, but if you're trying to win a race or get a good dyno...