thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

Since everyone from V6P has their build on here. I said sure why not? Here is my work in progress

09 MDX camshaft





Measure of bearing. This is the what govern how big the cam lobes can be since they have to slide through the hole.
42.3xx mm


Exhaust lobe
35.6xx mm


intake primary
35.1xx mm


vtec lobe
36.4xx mm



secondard
35.0xx mm


FYI this is what it should be from honda, but remember my micrometer is not that accurate so + .1-.2


TL-S Cylinder heads

I will see if I can paint my valve cover today if not probably next week its overcast today.






Here are more goodies. Gasket matched runners, Back cut valves with 2 angles, I still need to paint my valve covers














Cylinder heads









Also have 200 dollars worth of seals and gasket laying around

Hondata flash pro









Winkle Black Magnesium Valve covers



AEM AFR wideband

NvrDwn

Nice man its going to be a beast.

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

I am waiting for new camshaft seals and for my soldering iron to come in. Then I can finally HONDATA!!!

EvilVirus

iTrader: (8)

Damn nice set up you got going there

J35 heads should flow better correct? I thought all J30/32/35 heads were the same?

i_love_cars

iTrader: (1)

awesome

i_love_cars

iTrader: (1)

they are not the same.

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

They are not the same. The J35a8 head have larger cooling ports also. The gaskets were 20 more then the regular accord/base TL

Using the lighter mdx camshaft to further reduce valve train stress and help it rev up a little faster. MDX camshafts are ~4.5lbs each, stock cams (j30a4/5, j32a3) are 6lbs 2oz-, and TL-S 5lbs 1oz

BigJHouse

Are the mdx cams as aggressive as the type s cams and can they be shaved?

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

Mdx are same profile as tls. Cannot be regrind. Regrind camshaft are stupid especially for what people charge to do it. Waiting for real camshaft to be made from billet

Pghpizzaman

nice build you have going here. props for the fact you got a sedan! GL

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

Hopefully I will have time to repaint my valve cover again. I want it to be more wrinkly so its going into the oven first then hitting it with paint while its hot. looks to be 40* and lower for the new few weeks.

FCVadi

iTrader: (3)

good work, interested in how the progress goes

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

Here how they look like right now. I like the VHT Stuff, but it smells like shit and takes forever for the smell to go away. I put them in my trunk since it made the dorm smell like shit. Also the wrinkle is very uneven, and I touch a few spots while they were still wet.

Also have a box of gasket and what not and the head is fully assembled. I need to double check my tq spec since I used a HF tq wench, and we all know accurate those are.

mzilvar

iTrader: (3)

Could always have the valve covers powder coated while they're out like that, they probably have a wrinkle black PC, the guy I go to here has one. Shouldn't be all that expensive, maybe $80 or so to have them blasted, taped off and coated.

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

The place I talked to won't bead blast them since there are baffle that can't be removed on the valve cover. (bummer I Know). They wanted about 80 for both, but yeah.. baffle issues.

Its kool cost me 7-8 bucks to paint and the paint is pretty touch once harden

mzilvar

iTrader: (3)

Sucks they wouldn't blast them, but 7-8 bucks for paint works.

Black is actually one of the more difficult colors to get to lay down good though, if its put on uneven it gets mottled pretty quick where there are darker spots and lighter spots on the part.

I tried my IM top plate to match it to my valve covers and it came out like poo, I ended up stripping the paint and pulling the butterflies even though I didn't want to so I could have it powder coated. I managed to get everything back in just fine though.

An even overlapping pattern is pretty important.

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

I agree with you there buddy. Thats why I plan to do it another layer and try to even the texture and the spotting out. But even if it doesn't work out that well its going to be hidden anyways.

Scottwax

Should make a hell of a sleeper if you can keep it reasonably quiet.

azeezp13

iTrader: (4)

Hey dude, I've been following a lot of your posts over on V6P and over here on Azine. Good build you got going! I've been debating back and forth between these, the TL-S cams, and the RL cams. It seems the RL cams are the best, but they're a bit more expensive.

I'm thinking of going the same route as you and getting the MDX cams as they're only $200 a piece. Cheaper than both TL-S & RL cams. Will these cams fit directly in a J32A3 motor? Will I have to buy new valve springs and retainers?

Grand_hustle17

Noob question... Whats the specs on the mdx cams vs base tl? This is interesting... Any dyno date?... Duration specs would be nice too

thisaznboi88

iTrader: (7)

It will fit, but I would suggest new springs from the TL-S for over rev protection. I was told they were good up to 8k. I have no idea what the seat pressure is.

No dyno date yet. I am in final week and I fly back to CA. So the no dyno for a while maybe in the spring or summer.

From what I was told the duration on less then the TL-S, but have the same lift. So that means more boarder midrange power, but you won't get as much power over the TL-S, but that fine with me. I don't drive my car to redline all the time. And boarder power band is better for DD and AutoX anyways.