Are we talking about WHP or BHP?? if you want 30 bhp, then thats easy, but if you want 30whp, then CAI, UR pulley, Rv6 j-pipe and dual exhaust should land you on 30whp (RV6 combo will give 36 Average WHP)

 

Lol, ya, it makes sense to me...but then I think a lot of things make sense to me, that don't to anyone else...least that's the feeling I get

Anyway, I guess I'll have to put a pulley set on my list...

 

Nice, thanks!

 

The TL's ECU is pretty aggressive for it's setup and most of the time is retarding timing to stop knocking. As well the Exhaust and intake is pretty restrictive and some serious power can be gained from it, though it all won't come cheap!

 

So which provided better gains this crank pulley? or the rv6 jpipe? im confused how would the crank pulley give of whp and torque?

 

like mentioned before, all these bolt-on don't "give" you whp, but actually "unleash" the power that is restricted. I think the only thing that actually gives you power thats not already there is turbo and S/C. the Rv6 jpipe give you 15whp and the UR pulley gives you 8whp(I think)

 

Think about it, a light weight pulley has less mass to rotate.
A smaller pulley (smaller than stock in diameter) has even less mass to rotate.
A lightweight pulley will allow your engine to reach high RPMs sooner.
This is why people report their cars to be "lighter"

The stock j-pipe is restrictive. I know Richie has spent hours and hours on the dyno, months and months of R&D to provide the best airflow, the best bends, and the longer primaries to get the gains he has. Check out his RV6 V3 j-pipe thread to check out the dyno.
With the information I just gave you, you choose which route you would like to go.
Reaching high RPM's quicker, or better airflow for more power?
Personally, I chose the j-pipe for my first mod.

 

Oh i see.. well right now i just have a spectre drop in air filter which is basically like a short ram intake and made my car sound a lil bit nice and i also have the rv6 j-pipe and i noticed only a gain it seemed like in 1st gear around 4800 my car picks up a lil quicker but other than that i was looking for more low end perfomance... would u reccomend the pre cat deletes next or a pulley? im willing to throw down about 3 or 4 hundred

 

Personally, I will never do precat deletes because of the smell and the rasp. some say you can get rid of the rasp by adding more resonators.

PCD will definitely open up your j-pipe for more air, and you'll see more gains.
pcds =20whp i think
j-pipe=15whp
richies new exhaust =about 20 whp i think.

all together these 3 combined create incredible gains without going forced induction.

like i said earlier, the pulley will just make your car seem lighter. it will reach redline faster. not necessarily gaining horses.

 

With RV6 full exhaust setup I'm pretty sure you can get 50 WHP.

15 WHP from RV6 V3 J-pipe.
15 WHP from RV6 V1 Exhaust
20-30 WHP from RV6 V2 PCD

The Underdrive pulley is like freeing up 100LBs from your car. So you don't necessarily "gain" HP and/or you can't see gains from a dyno, but it is there. It should increase your 1/4 by a tenth of a second giving you "6-7" more HP. Go check Innacurate's thread about this along with his weight reduction thread. IMO, that is true performance.

 

there you go, "freeing up" is a better term.

 

i have an Injen CAI and that was a noticable difference to me. i plan to add an ATLP J-pipe and base next.

 

Injen cold air? whered u get it from?

 

i cantr remember exactly where it was and im not at my house right now to check but i found the same one on autoanything.com

http://www.autoanything.com/air-inta....aspx?kc=ffsku

 

im trying to decide on what exhaust peices to get but from what ive been reading it seems like the Rv6 is raspy. but im guessing its possible that these critques came from people who used the RV6 J-pipe in comination with the ATLP base???

 

RV6 V3 J-pipe alone will not cause any rasp and will not increase any rasp in a exhaust system. If their is rasp in that setup, I'm sure that is all coming from the ATLP base exhaust.

Nothing against ATLP, but RV6 products are over-achieving the products of its competitors.

I would choose RV6 PCD, exhaust, and J-pipe. 50WHP.

 

Fire extinguisher, Neon lights, and a huge metal spoiler on the back!

Your looking at about 32 1/2 hp...

Go with the RV6 J-pipe and Exhaust... Thats what Im seeing as the best thing!

Im going RV6 when Im done with my other upgrades!

 

dude thats impossible off of bolt ons 50 whp? ud be lucky to get 25 off of all three...50 whp is ALOT

 

50 whp? dude thats impossible off of a few bolt on do some more research.. you would be lucky to get 20 or 25 whp off of the 3..

 

^ why did you u repeat yourself, there is a button called edit, incase you wanted to rephrase what you type.

anyways, 50whp does sound farfetched, but the dyno's don't like (or maybe they do?). most of Rv6's bolt-on's increase whp by 15+, besides, the TL is very restricted, so freeing up hp should be somewhat easy.

 

ya my bad, ya so u think i would notice more power off of the precat deletes? i already have the v3 jpipe didnt notice much

 

well, 15 whp increase is not that noticeable to begin with, infact I think anything that inproves under 50whp I doubt u'll feel a HUGE difference. if you get something like turbo or S/C, then u'll feel it becuz ur not used to that much power being gained all at once.

if you really want to feel a difference, take the jpipe off and put stock back on, THEN buy the PCD's, an exhaust catback, UR pulley, AEM V2 CAI and put them on all at THE SAME TIME (including the jpipe), then u'll feel a huge difference.

 

Your not gonna get 50whp from those mods. If you saw Richy's dyno with both the exhaust and jpipe it made 16whp. With all 3 i'd say your gonna get about 35-40 whp. Probably with a custom legit true dual with 2.5" piping you'll get closer to 45whp. You guys know that Richey's exhaust is not really a true dual exhaust. That merge is not really an xpipe.

 

so would everyone agree that putting a CIA is the best first mod to be done to the car? and dose anyone know if it voids the warrenty or extended warrenty? just dont want to screw that up. thanks

 

cai = 1-2 hp @ $300.
richies jpipe =15whp @ $470
richies precat delete = 15 whp @ $320

which one looks like a better buy?

 

which is the best exhaust though to provide most power, the ATLP or the RV6?

 

look it up.
search for the rv6 exhaust thread and compare it to the ATLP.
I won't do the hard work for you.
you have to make the decision yourself on which on is better.

Guys, we have so much available resources on mods.
you all have brains. use them.

 

general consensus:

1> intake + exhaust(precats+jpipe+catback)....should give you around that 30WHP figure
2> next would be ported and polished runners + pnp manifold + bored throttle body + bored intake spacer.....should give you another ~20-30 to the wheels ?
3> though I would have done this first....drop + wheels + cleared headlights + LEDs + couple other custom mods.....should give you 100 more to the wheels....

 

option 3 thats what i did first. You forgot ASPEC!!

 

50-60 whp with bolt-ons?

 

more like 30-50 average whp.

 

you cant really add power like that LOL....sometimes they complement.....

so route 1 would give you ~30....route 2 will give you ~30....if you do both you will get ~40-50 depending on AT/MT and many other factors....

 

Good point, but 40-50 is still a whole lot for bolt-ons. That's a significant percentage increase over stock.

 

actually not too much....

a stock 5AT dynos at ~210 to the wheel....after spending ~2K-3K on bolt ons you will be at ~250 to the wheels....

you can then free up some HP/TQ by pulleys and mounts and weight reduction....