What is the best street performance brake kit for a 2008 tLs? Rotors and pads. Maybe stainless lines if included. Need to replace my front pads and rotors at 90k miles. Dealer quoted me over $700 for factory replacement. I'm reading Stoptech or Hawk are the best kits for wAy less. Any feedback is appreciated. Thank you.

 

Best is SUBJECTIVE.
that means, What I think is the best, you might not.

any rotor/pad will stop the car.
remember, car parts are about compromise, or trade offs.
if you pick up a pad with more initial bite, it will have dusting and maybe noise.

drilled and slotted rotors are ONLY for aesthetics. no performance on the street.
a grabbier pad might have a great initial bite, but might last a lot less and dust.


since, most people dont drive at 10/10ths everyday, MOST people dont need a track set up.
Ive been hooking up my buddies with Duralast Cmax Gold pads and rotors.
to be honest, there's no difference in braking.

TIRES play a more important role in braking and stopping distances!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
if bald and no traction, it will take you longer to stop.
Tires have more of a performance aspect than pads do.

In closing, choose any pad and rotor combo that you are comfortable with that meets your budget.

 

^^^

What he said

 

My brakemotive setup has worked fine for the past 30k miles.

 

https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/excelerate-performance-xlr8-brake-packages-acurazine-903270/

 

Same boat as your in bud. From countless readings of threads here i pulled the plug on a set of Stoptechs. Your lucky as your state side so shipping is no where near what I have to pay to get it here into Canada. Very happy with the price ($700 & shipped to my door). Way better than what the local dealership quoted me ($1150 for PARTS alone).

Drilled & Slotted w/ XLR8 SS Brake Lines - $560 plus shipping
http://store.excelerateperformance.c...i-1890139.aspx

 

After a bit of research and taliking with a coupleocal shops, Tire Rack, and Marcus from heeltoe I went with. I didnt need the rears yet but I'm a go big or go home kind of guy.

http://www.heeltoeauto.com/ht-spec-b...roductid=65492

 

I picket up a front set of rotors and pads off ebay from topbrakes_net for the TLS that were cross drilled and all that fancy stuff but the big thing was that they were coated. Cant remember what with, but it was like a galvanized look to match the natural color of the rotor metal. The rotors themselves have lasted very well for the last 8 months. No rust what so ever. They came with a set of pads and ive been using them but as with any set of cheap pads, they usually have a "ceramic" base which means if you have to lean on the breaks in a hurry or get them too hot cus you havent learned to drive down from the hills, they will "glaze over" Meaning they get so hot that they develop a glass type surface. Once this happens, they will squeak from time to time, usually at slower speeds and they could potentially carve into your rotors.

I always recommend getting the softest pads that dont have some "lifetime warranty" because they kill rotors instead of wear down. Yes you will have break dust on your precious rims. Thats why you wash your baby. I have found some really great spray foam break dust remover for rims of all finishes and when following directions, i dont even have to clean rims except for drying.

SOLUTION!!!! If you did get the cheap pads and some asshole pulled in front of you causing you to glaze your pads. Simply take the pads out and sand the top layer off. This is especially easy if you have a compressor and a buffing wheel. If not. Get a sanding block and be sure to sand the pad as evenly as possible. Not super crucial. Your brake system will usually set in fairly quick.

 

which cleaning spray foam for the wheels?

 

Let's not spread misinformation. Besides all of the other stuff that's wrong, there is no pad out there that will glaze over from one hard stop, it's hard to glaze a modern pad with multiple hard stops. Drilled rotors offer no performance advantage and ALL will crack over time. There no reason to run them unless you plan to race in the rain or you enjoy inspecting and replacing rotors.

You can have a long lasting pad that is nice on the rotors as well. Find a pad that does not cause abrasive wear and instead works on it's own transfer layer that it lays down on the rotor. You can have low pad and rotor wear along with high performance.

 

I would just go with the first response from justnspace

 

+1 never get drilled.

He'll drilled rotors aren't even needed. Look at F1 cars brakes. No holes, no slots.