A-113: Removal of Slave Cylinder check valve!!!
#881
Removed the restrictor valve couple days ago. C-ring was a pain even with banging on the cap first. Then I couldn't get the cap of. So I had someone hold the hole shut, with his thumb, where the line comes in and I pushed the cylinder in and the cap came flying out. It flew a good 10 feet straight up.
#882
Advanced
Two things:
1) the only thing you remove is the check valve, correct? You put every other part back?
2) are there any single parts on the slave cylinder you'd recommend buying that are likely to break or in case they break when doing this?
1) the only thing you remove is the check valve, correct? You put every other part back?
2) are there any single parts on the slave cylinder you'd recommend buying that are likely to break or in case they break when doing this?
#883
Three Wheelin'
As far as I remember:
1) yes
2) no
1) yes
2) no
The following users liked this post:
UA6-MT (06-04-2020)
#887
Senior Moderator
Originally Posted by DaveW2112
I have a new and modified slave cylinder for a 2006 TL for sale if anyone is interested.
#889
Instructor
Does this procedure have any downsides for enthusiasts? I'm gathering no.
#893
Just did this to mine tonight... feels great! Overall, it was pretty straight forward... took a little over an hour to do, including bleeding.
I had a little bit of trouble popping out the C ring, but I used the grinder to make a pointier tip on my (old and rusty) pick, and slid it behind the side of the C ring that's angled with the overhang. And of course also tapped the cap inward to release some pressure off the ring. I used some small vise grips to pull the cap out, and then a small Allen wrench to push the check valve out from the other side. I used a hand pumped Mityvac to bleed the fluid, and flushed all the fluid while I was in there (the old stuff looked pretty bad). After seeing the clutch fluid, I guess I should flush my brakes soon too.
Thanks for the writeup and all the tips throughout this thread.
Pat
I had a little bit of trouble popping out the C ring, but I used the grinder to make a pointier tip on my (old and rusty) pick, and slid it behind the side of the C ring that's angled with the overhang. And of course also tapped the cap inward to release some pressure off the ring. I used some small vise grips to pull the cap out, and then a small Allen wrench to push the check valve out from the other side. I used a hand pumped Mityvac to bleed the fluid, and flushed all the fluid while I was in there (the old stuff looked pretty bad). After seeing the clutch fluid, I guess I should flush my brakes soon too.
Thanks for the writeup and all the tips throughout this thread.
Pat
#894
Burning Brakes
The CMC on the TL's has a "Check valve"
Hi Everyone, I think there is something that has been over looked in addition to deleting the check valve and it hasn't occurred to me until 314_04TL asked about getting a K-tuned Clutch Master Cylinder (CMC). I didn't realize this but there is another "Check valve" or diaphragm that slows clutch fluid in the CMC of the TL. The CMC is hidden behind the shock tower on the TL. I have the slave cylinder check valve delete, an Assco flywheel and XLR8 DD clutch and experienced strange engagement symptoms at high RPM while shifting fast. I think this was due to the CMC slowing the the clutch fluid with the diaphragm.
#895
4drs just wanna have fun!
iTrader: (1)
Hi Everyone, I think there is something that has been over looked in addition to deleting the check valve and it hasn't occurred to me until 314_04TL asked about getting a K-tuned Clutch Master Cylinder (CMC). I didn't realize this but there is another "Check valve" or diaphragm that slows clutch fluid in the CMC of the TL. The CMC is hidden behind the shock tower on the TL. I have the slave cylinder check valve delete, an Assco flywheel and XLR8 DD clutch and experienced strange engagement symptoms at high RPM while shifting fast. I think this was due to the CMC slowing the the clutch fluid with the diaphragm.
#896
4drs just wanna have fun!
iTrader: (1)
Hi Everyone, I think there is something that has been over looked in addition to deleting the check valve and it hasn't occurred to me until 314_04TL asked about getting a K-tuned Clutch Master Cylinder (CMC). I didn't realize this but there is another "Check valve" or diaphragm that slows clutch fluid in the CMC of the TL. The CMC is hidden behind the shock tower on the TL. I have the slave cylinder check valve delete, an Assco flywheel and XLR8 DD clutch and experienced strange engagement symptoms at high RPM while shifting fast. I think this was due to the CMC slowing the the clutch fluid with the diaphragm.
Upon researching the part number I found out it belongs to the 01-05 Civic manuals.
46920-S5A-G06
The part seems to ironically be more expensive the our original CMC if your are sourcing it through a dealer in person or online,
obviously off brand units are substantially cheaper.
#897
Burning Brakes
looking at some other threads I found a very informative thread and in particular post by Euro_TSX_R that points out another CMC that can be used thats just like our original unit minus the diaphragm.
Upon researching the part number I found out it belongs to the 01-05 Civic manuals.
46920-S5A-G06
The part seems to ironically be more expensive the our original CMC if your are sourcing it through a dealer in person or online,
obviously off brand units are substantially cheaper.
Upon researching the part number I found out it belongs to the 01-05 Civic manuals.
46920-S5A-G06
The part seems to ironically be more expensive the our original CMC if your are sourcing it through a dealer in person or online,
obviously off brand units are substantially cheaper.
#898
Instructor
My OEM slave cylinder on my 6MT Acura TL is leaking and needs to be replaced. Just ordered a LuK slave cylinder to replace it. Can someone in Northern California/Sacramento do this mod by deleting the check valve for me on my new LuK slave cylinder? Thanks.....please PM me.
#901
I just did this mod last week, and it makes a big difference. The clutch engagement was clumsy and awkward before modding. I was very frustrated at how hard the car was to drive given my amount of time driving a manual (~20 years), to the point of considering trading it. The clutch grabs faster, is more predictable, and feels much more like it should. I rarely run the car hard, but the time between shifts is much reduced, even under normal daily driving conditions. I highly recommend it. Now... about that rev hang...
#902
Thanks to OP for starting this thread. Did the mod this morning on my 05, and it seems to have helped to make the clutch engagement more consistent. I've owned/driven tons of Hondas over the years (learned to drive on a '73 Civic), and all had a much better clutch feel than the TL. 10/10, great mod.
#903
Racer
I cannot for whatever reason screw the clutch line back into the slave cylinder.
any idea?
im trying to hand tighten it but it just doesn’t go in....
im literally about to lose my shit
any idea?
im trying to hand tighten it but it just doesn’t go in....
im literally about to lose my shit
#904
To make the job easier, you can un-clip the line from the transmission bellhousing. You might also screw in the brake line on the slave cylinder before bolting the latter onto the mount.
#905
Moderator
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
iTrader: (6)
@BreezyTL @6spd-GERCO @guitarplayer16 @Accord_V6_400m
Anyone take apart the LUK slave yet?
I did and I thought, shit...there's no checkvalve in it but upon some youtube research I see that that little cap on the spring is actually the delay valve.
I'm tempted to ship it back and just buy OEM to remove the same checkvalve I'm used to but in a way I don't see a point if I end up with the same thing
inside.
Thoughts?
Anyone take apart the LUK slave yet?
I did and I thought, shit...there's no checkvalve in it but upon some youtube research I see that that little cap on the spring is actually the delay valve.
I'm tempted to ship it back and just buy OEM to remove the same checkvalve I'm used to but in a way I don't see a point if I end up with the same thing
inside.
Thoughts?
#908
Moderator
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
iTrader: (6)
at the time I wasn't sure if JJH had removed the checkvalve and with nothing leaking I figured I'd leave well enough alone.
I finally did pull mine off to inspect and after talking to Andy and finding out he didn't tell Justin too I am confident knowing the checkvalve
is probably still in there. In which case...I DO want to remove it...
I tried on the one I have but the c clip is rusted and bonded in there...so I opted to amazon a new one 1 day shipping...
Anyway, I found a "used-new" oem honda slave that will be here 1 day (tomorrow) so If that one checks out for $66 I'll send the LUK
one back since it was the same price.
Getting there...the car is happy right now...driving great. Should be registered soon too so I can actually drive it.
#909
Safety Car
iTrader: (8)
@BreezyTL I just realized you are probably wondering why the fuck I didn't just buy yours with the stainless line...
at the time I wasn't sure if JJH had removed the checkvalve and with nothing leaking I figured I'd leave well enough alone.
I finally did pull mine off to inspect and after talking to Andy and finding out he didn't tell Justin too I am confident knowing the checkvalve
is probably still in there. In which case...I DO want to remove it...
I tried on the one I have but the c clip is rusted and bonded in there...so I opted to amazon a new one 1 day shipping...
Anyway, I found a "used-new" oem honda slave that will be here 1 day (tomorrow) so If that one checks out for $66 I'll send the LUK
one back since it was the same price.
Getting there...the car is happy right now...driving great. Should be registered soon too so I can actually drive it.
at the time I wasn't sure if JJH had removed the checkvalve and with nothing leaking I figured I'd leave well enough alone.
I finally did pull mine off to inspect and after talking to Andy and finding out he didn't tell Justin too I am confident knowing the checkvalve
is probably still in there. In which case...I DO want to remove it...
I tried on the one I have but the c clip is rusted and bonded in there...so I opted to amazon a new one 1 day shipping...
Anyway, I found a "used-new" oem honda slave that will be here 1 day (tomorrow) so If that one checks out for $66 I'll send the LUK
one back since it was the same price.
Getting there...the car is happy right now...driving great. Should be registered soon too so I can actually drive it.
If you keep the LUK for some reason, I would remove the spring since it will do nothing in there without the cap.
The following users liked this post:
rockstar143 (01-06-2020)
#911
Burning Brakes
@BreezyTL @6spd-GERCO @guitarplayer16 @Accord_V6_400m
Anyone take apart the LUK slave yet?
I did and I thought, shit...there's no checkvalve in it but upon some youtube research I see that that little cap on the spring is actually the delay valve.
I'm tempted to ship it back and just buy OEM to remove the same checkvalve I'm used to but in a way I don't see a point if I end up with the same thing
inside.
Thoughts?
Anyone take apart the LUK slave yet?
I did and I thought, shit...there's no checkvalve in it but upon some youtube research I see that that little cap on the spring is actually the delay valve.
I'm tempted to ship it back and just buy OEM to remove the same checkvalve I'm used to but in a way I don't see a point if I end up with the same thing
inside.
Thoughts?
#912
Moderator
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
iTrader: (6)
thanks @90foxnotch I appreciate that!
That OEM one came that was scratch and dent on amazon for $66...shit...has one tiny scratch...
Gonna mod it today or tomorrow.
That OEM one came that was scratch and dent on amazon for $66...shit...has one tiny scratch...
Gonna mod it today or tomorrow.
#913
Burning Brakes
For sure, either way it should feel a lot better. My main complaint was a little slip between gears and it was a pain leaving peacefully in 1st and the 1-2 shift. When my wife first drove it she even said, wow this thing is so touchy-She's a keeper
#919
Three Wheelin'
So for the people that have done this would you recommend getting a new one or just modding the existing one? It's an 06 TL with about 67k on the odometer. Seems to be an almost $100 part on Amazon.
#920
Moderator
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
Chapter Leader (South Florida Region)
iTrader: (6)
I want to say I used the luk one on amazon and I ended up going OEM after but I can't remember why.
If your slave isn't leaking and isn't about to leak, I'd just reuse yours. If it's time, put in a new part and be
done with it.
Swapping it is easy enough but bleeding is annoying unless you have a vacuum extractor.
If your slave isn't leaking and isn't about to leak, I'd just reuse yours. If it's time, put in a new part and be
done with it.
Swapping it is easy enough but bleeding is annoying unless you have a vacuum extractor.