Removed the restrictor valve couple days ago. C-ring was a pain even with banging on the cap first. Then I couldn't get the cap of. So I had someone hold the hole shut, with his thumb, where the line comes in and I pushed the cylinder in and the cap came flying out. It flew a good 10 feet straight up.

 

Two things:
1) the only thing you remove is the check valve, correct? You put every other part back?
2) are there any single parts on the slave cylinder you'd recommend buying that are likely to break or in case they break when doing this?

 

As far as I remember:

1) yes
2) no

 

Had this done on my 08 TLS. Great mod. Feels much better especially on the downshift. Shifts smoother and faster. Very happy. Thank you

 

most noticeable on the upshift, 1st to 2nd...especially.

 

I have a new and modified slave cylinder for a 2006 TL for sale if anyone is interested.

 

Throw it on the black market

 

would that fit the 08 6 speed?

 

I was reading over this thread to make sure it was what I wanted to do (shift better). Your post is /thread, IMO. Can't wait to do this!

Does this procedure have any downsides for enthusiasts? I'm gathering no.

 

is there any trick to getting the c clip out? i can't seem to get it out, I'm working on a brand new slave cylinder

thanks

 

dremel a groove until you can get better leverage under it. That's the only way I got it out

 

I used a pick set to pop the C ring out. Similar to dental tools.

Wedged it in the opening and it popped right off

 

Just did this to mine tonight... feels great! Overall, it was pretty straight forward... took a little over an hour to do, including bleeding.

I had a little bit of trouble popping out the C ring, but I used the grinder to make a pointier tip on my (old and rusty) pick, and slid it behind the side of the C ring that's angled with the overhang. And of course also tapped the cap inward to release some pressure off the ring. I used some small vise grips to pull the cap out, and then a small Allen wrench to push the check valve out from the other side. I used a hand pumped Mityvac to bleed the fluid, and flushed all the fluid while I was in there (the old stuff looked pretty bad). After seeing the clutch fluid, I guess I should flush my brakes soon too.

Thanks for the writeup and all the tips throughout this thread.

Pat

 

Hi Everyone, I think there is something that has been over looked in addition to deleting the check valve and it hasn't occurred to me until 314_04TL asked about getting a K-tuned Clutch Master Cylinder (CMC). I didn't realize this but there is another "Check valve" or diaphragm that slows clutch fluid in the CMC of the TL. The CMC is hidden behind the shock tower on the TL. I have the slave cylinder check valve delete, an Assco flywheel and XLR8 DD clutch and experienced strange engagement symptoms at high RPM while shifting fast. I think this was due to the CMC slowing the the clutch fluid with the diaphragm.

 

yes I just did slave on the 07 TL-S and I Am having similar issues with the master looking for a Ktune master or similar.

 

looking at some other threads I found a very informative thread and in particular post by Euro_TSX_R that points out another CMC that can be used thats just like our original unit minus the diaphragm.
Upon researching the part number I found out it belongs to the 01-05 Civic manuals.

46920-S5A-G06

The part seems to ironically be more expensive the our original CMC if your are sourcing it through a dealer in person or online,
obviously off brand units are substantially cheaper.

 

I went through part bull thanks to EuroRSpecTSX, it was a bargain. I shared my install experience with him and my initial driving impressions and made him a little nervous about the clutch pedal buzz lol. I am going to try Redline Gear lube in my Integra and possibly make the switch to Redline in my TL to see how it compares to the GM Syncromesh.

 

My OEM slave cylinder on my 6MT Acura TL is leaking and needs to be replaced. Just ordered a LuK slave cylinder to replace it. Can someone in Northern California/Sacramento do this mod by deleting the check valve for me on my new LuK slave cylinder? Thanks.....please PM me.

 

Do it yourself. It is super easy unless you let the C-clip fly across the room.

 

Great mod

 

I just did this mod last week, and it makes a big difference. The clutch engagement was clumsy and awkward before modding. I was very frustrated at how hard the car was to drive given my amount of time driving a manual (~20 years), to the point of considering trading it. The clutch grabs faster, is more predictable, and feels much more like it should. I rarely run the car hard, but the time between shifts is much reduced, even under normal daily driving conditions. I highly recommend it. Now... about that rev hang...

 

Thanks to OP for starting this thread. Did the mod this morning on my 05, and it seems to have helped to make the clutch engagement more consistent. I've owned/driven tons of Hondas over the years (learned to drive on a '73 Civic), and all had a much better clutch feel than the TL. 10/10, great mod.

 

 

Were you able to get the brake line threaded into the slave cylinder? Did you try to rule out bad threads in the new cylinder by attempting to screw the line back into the old one?

To make the job easier, you can un-clip the line from the transmission bellhousing. You might also screw in the brake line on the slave cylinder before bolting the latter onto the mount.

 

@BreezyTL @6spd-GERCO @guitarplayer16 @Accord_V6_400m
Anyone take apart the LUK slave yet?
I did and I thought, shit...there's no checkvalve in it but upon some youtube research I see that that little cap on the spring is actually the delay valve.
I'm tempted to ship it back and just buy OEM to remove the same checkvalve I'm used to but in a way I don't see a point if I end up with the same thing
inside.
Thoughts?

 

I do not have any experience or knowledge on the LUK brand but I would almost say remove the spring and cap and that is the same thing as removing the plastic valve in the OEM ones. Hope someone else can correct me if I am wrong.

 

Spring stays, it's just the cap on the end. I guess you end up with nothing in it providing a delay and it's the same.
I just thought maybe for such an indiscernible difference in price, I should go Honda.

 

@BreezyTL I just realized you are probably wondering why the fuck I didn't just buy yours with the stainless line...
at the time I wasn't sure if JJH had removed the checkvalve and with nothing leaking I figured I'd leave well enough alone.
I finally did pull mine off to inspect and after talking to Andy and finding out he didn't tell Justin too I am confident knowing the checkvalve
is probably still in there. In which case...I DO want to remove it...
I tried on the one I have but the c clip is rusted and bonded in there...so I opted to amazon a new one 1 day shipping...
Anyway, I found a "used-new" oem honda slave that will be here 1 day (tomorrow) so If that one checks out for $66 I'll send the LUK
one back since it was the same price.

Getting there...the car is happy right now...driving great. Should be registered soon too so I can actually drive it.

 

Not a big deal! Hope you get it fixed.

If you keep the LUK for some reason, I would remove the spring since it will do nothing in there without the cap.

 

IF the Honda isn't too banged up I'll definitely use that...
but otherwise I'll take your suggestion. Thanks dude.

 

Rockstar-I did this to mine using the Luk slave and I removed the spring and cap assembly. If you look at that cap there is a small hole restricting flow-Mine feels a lot better. I also added the ss line at the same time. Feels great now and zero slip during hard acceleration

 

thanks @90foxnotch I appreciate that!
That OEM one came that was scratch and dent on amazon for $66...shit...has one tiny scratch...
Gonna mod it today or tomorrow.

 

For sure, either way it should feel a lot better. My main complaint was a little slip between gears and it was a pain leaving peacefully in 1st and the 1-2 shift. When my wife first drove it she even said, wow this thing is so touchy-She's a keeper

 

dude, i never liked driving my black tl until I took it out.
I assumed blue had it done and that the touchy was due to the aftermarket clutch (initially)

 

newb...

 

tell me about it.

 

it should fit my 05, right? Interested

 

Yes.

 

So for the people that have done this would you recommend getting a new one or just modding the existing one? It's an 06 TL with about 67k on the odometer. Seems to be an almost $100 part on Amazon.

 

I want to say I used the luk one on amazon and I ended up going OEM after but I can't remember why.
If your slave isn't leaking and isn't about to leak, I'd just reuse yours. If it's time, put in a new part and be
done with it.

Swapping it is easy enough but bleeding is annoying unless you have a vacuum extractor.