A-113: Removal of Slave Cylinder check valve!!!

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Old Oct 8, 2012 | 07:47 AM
  #721  
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Thanks for this!
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Old Oct 8, 2012 | 09:56 AM
  #722  
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Originally Posted by Bruce Banner
I bought a new one to mod. Have not installed yet. Will look into putting it in next week. I'm tired of delaying the shifts cause of this stupid valve.
You'll wonder why you waited, brother...it's NIGHT AND DAY. It's really an awesome mod I'd recommend to ANYONE.
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Old Oct 10, 2012 | 10:00 PM
  #723  
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Originally Posted by rockstar143
You'll wonder why you waited, brother...it's NIGHT AND DAY. It's really an awesome mod I'd recommend to ANYONE.
What should I expect after it goes in?
Will I be able to let up the clutch up faster when shifting?
1-2nd always has a long delay to make the shift smooth, will this allow me to just let the clutch up immediately without jerking?
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Old Oct 11, 2012 | 04:55 AM
  #724  
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i have a slightly unrelated question....


where is the slave cylinder.
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Old Oct 11, 2012 | 07:37 AM
  #725  
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mounted to the front of the tranny...pop open your hood, look down into the space behind the radiator to the right of the primary cat..it's on the right, about 2 feet deep.

Bruce, YES. Immediately it'll be thoughtless to shift smoothly. Like how ALL other honda's I've ever driven feel.
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Old Oct 11, 2012 | 08:51 AM
  #726  
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I need to do this......I tried and failed a couple weeks ago. I couldn't get the damn fluid line off.

Also....I have a slave I bought from P2R. I couldn't turn the bleeder valve at all and there is no cap on it. Should I be worried?
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Old Oct 11, 2012 | 10:12 AM
  #727  
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Just out of curiosity, why didn't you go OEM on it? I would just get another one if you're having problems with it being stripped or seized...it was like $80 IIRC...that way, you can remove the checkvalve while off the car...and you can butcher the original one.

My oem one, the o ring at the tip failed ANYWAY at 40K. So I ended up having to replace the slave once, then re remove it to mod it.
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Old Oct 11, 2012 | 11:01 AM
  #728  
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I bought the one from P2R awhile ago. It seemed like a pretty good deal considering the check valve was already out.
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Old Oct 11, 2012 | 11:27 AM
  #729  
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I wasn't aware of it!
Probably is...considering it's a simple product.

So your bleeder line on the OEM one is seized up? Spray that bish with penetrating fluid for a few days in a row...
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Old Oct 11, 2012 | 01:55 PM
  #730  
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^ Oh na, not the OEM one, the one I bought which is currently in my trunk. It didn't come with a cap and I can't get the bleeder valve to move. I'll have my buddy try, he's much more mechanically inclined than I.
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Old Oct 12, 2012 | 06:57 PM
  #731  
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Originally Posted by rockstar143
mounted to the front of the tranny...pop open your hood, look down into the space behind the radiator to the right of the primary cat..it's on the right, about 2 feet deep.

Bruce, YES. Immediately it'll be thoughtless to shift smoothly. Like how ALL other honda's I've ever driven feel.
Just had it put in today. wow. This is one of those should have done it from day one like GM fluid. It has significantly reduced the amount of clutch I need to give on each shift to make it smooth. The long clutch delay from 1st to 2nd is HUGELY reduced. It still needs a LITTLE bit of clutch to be smooth form 1-2, but its head over heels better than the way it was.
1st gear always needed alot of clutch, now it's pretty minimal.
I need to get used to driving this car now since I no longer need to give each gear the delay while shifting anymore
I've been so programmed to give each gear some clutch to make it smooth in this car.
I certainly recommend this mod, really wish I had done it the week I got the car.
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Old Oct 14, 2012 | 08:26 PM
  #732  
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save yourselves the trouble and pick up a needle tool set, no more notching!
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Old Oct 15, 2012 | 06:15 AM
  #733  
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This look very interesting to do and I just noticed this thread ahha, but I was reading ways to remove the SC and wasnt too clear about how to remove it and bleeding it. I wanted to ask if anyone can provide a good step by step with good methods. I like to work on the car myself but not engine work like this so I'm pretty worried. Was planning to buy a new SC and attempting this.
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Old Oct 15, 2012 | 06:28 AM
  #734  
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^the steps outlined in this very thread are great!
I did it correctly the first time ever attempting something like this.

its pretty straight forward.
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Old Oct 15, 2012 | 06:31 AM
  #735  
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Originally Posted by justnspace
^the steps outlined in this very thread are great!
I did it correctly the first time ever attempting something like this.

its pretty straight forward.
which page did you followed the steps on? thanks. hopefully i dont run into problems, everytime i do something with the car i always run into problems so i just want to make sure if i run into problems i have some clues on fixing it.
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Old Oct 15, 2012 | 09:05 AM
  #736  
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First couple of pages had instructions, thanks to OPEL. I did a DIY too, but it died off as more people came to this thread.
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/if-you-have-6-speed-mt-hate-shifting-read-me-738245/
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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 05:03 PM
  #737  
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Hello all, I'm new to the forum here - first post!

So I've recently got a 2005 TL 6spd and have been building up the courage to get this mod done ever since. Yesterday I finally got it done! Sadly I don't notice any difference whatsoever in the way the car shifts...

I've followed the DIYs here to remove the check valve from the slave cylinder as posted here so I'm confident I've done that part correctly. I'm also 100% confident that the slave cylinder was put back on the car without the check valve... It drives, but exactly as it did before. The delay is still there, which leads me to believe that I must have misunderstood what "delay" this mod was supposed to get rid of. What's bothering me about the way the TL shifts is the delay that comes after the shift when I step on the gas. I rev match on every shift and I feel it "engage" as I release the clutch pedal, however the power isn't available until about .5 second later, which makes the car jerk if I step on the gas right after shifting. I was under the impression that this delay was what this mod was supposed to resolve. Help please
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Old Oct 18, 2012 | 09:00 PM
  #738  
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This mod works.
Quit trolling.
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Old Oct 19, 2012 | 11:03 AM
  #739  
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...he's probably just not used to a drive by wire system.
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Old Oct 19, 2012 | 12:10 PM
  #740  
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Not trolling, and thanks for the responses.

Yeah I was thinking it could be the drive by wire system so I tried stepping on the gas a little earlier while shifting and it seems better. I let my friend drive it too and he said he didn't notice the "delay" and his shifts were smoother than mine too. The previous car I had was a 2002 civic which was very easy to drive compared to the TL. I think I'm finally starting to get a hang of it though, I'll keep you posted
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Old Oct 19, 2012 | 12:13 PM
  #741  
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^the TL is a very hard car to master the clutch.
i slip the clutch a small amount in order to get PERFECT SHIFTS
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Old Oct 19, 2012 | 12:51 PM
  #742  
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Agreed, Nort. It's awesome...and trust me, if you had been used to the drive by wire and STILL annoyed by the delay in grab, you'd have noticed how much better it was now.

It's not so much a delay in acceleration that sucked, it was like...in 1st and 2nd a totally unpredictable grab point for the clutch, so you'd have to baby it to make sure you weren't jumping all over the place. I hated driving this car until I got it done...it felt like my first time driving a stick every time I had to start in 1st...
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Old Oct 19, 2012 | 01:37 PM
  #743  
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Coming out of 1st and shifting from 1st-2nd is definitely a little frustrating at times with the damn check valve. Not sure why Honda thought this would make it easier? Lulz. It's crap.
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Old Oct 20, 2012 | 05:56 AM
  #744  
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Now I know why I hit the rev limiter the other day on a hard shift, instead of the clutch grabbing like it should and dropping the RPMs into the next gear, the RPMs kept climbing and hit the rev limiter. I couldn't believe it, thought I miss shifted but it was clearly in gear. I always thought the clutch felt kinda "soft", especially for a sport model like this.

Only 17 pages more to read..can't wait to have a normal clutch!
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Old Oct 20, 2012 | 10:53 AM
  #745  
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Well, I'm not sure the checkvalve would account for rpms continuing to climb after letting go of the gas, just a slow response to having the clutch "grab" after release of the clutch pedal.
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Old Oct 21, 2012 | 11:32 AM
  #746  
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Ok, so I've done the ECU reset and the throttle response feels better now. With the checkvalve gone I'm finally able to get smooth shifts . Thanks for the DYI on this!!!
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Old Oct 21, 2012 | 07:44 PM
  #747  
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I removed the check valve yesterday, took about an hour for the whole process. I tried for 15min to take the ring off with a pick set then said f'it and got a filer and created a notch to pop the ring out lol. I noticed immediately when reversing out of the garage the clutch grabbed without having to search for the clutch point. Thanks for this mod, its a must have for anyone with a MT!
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Old Oct 23, 2012 | 01:29 AM
  #748  
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Originally Posted by rockstar143
Well, I'm not sure the checkvalve would account for rpms continuing to climb after letting go of the gas, just a slow response to having the clutch "grab" after release of the clutch pedal.
I don't think I explained myself well, my bad - it wasn't that I let go of the gas, it was that I let go (engaged) the clutch after shifting up. Normally it should've grabbed right away, but it didn't, and since I went WOT as soon as I shifted, the RPMs kept climbing. The other alternative is that the clutch is worn out and slips regardless from its previous owner, I guess I'll find out soon.

Did yours ever slip with the valve on a 2-3 or 3-4 shift near the redline at WOT? (forgot which gear it was)
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Old Oct 23, 2012 | 01:41 AM
  #749  
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Check valve is out, new SC ready.

Now just gotta find time for the swap
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Old Oct 23, 2012 | 09:09 AM
  #750  
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I don't notice a lag, but then again, as I get older, I'm a little "easier" on the poor car.
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Old Oct 23, 2012 | 06:22 PM
  #751  
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I don't drive like I used to back in the day either, but I can tell it's slipping a little bit, you can feel it just when you 1st engage the next gear for a second when driving/shifting hard, then it grabs, so I'm hoping it's just the valve.
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Old Oct 23, 2012 | 08:55 PM
  #752  
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Keep us posted!
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Old Oct 27, 2012 | 11:11 PM
  #753  
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Had my clutch replaced with oem 9 months ago...now the slave cylinder failed...ordered a new one at 75 total. Got it in yesterday and performed the mod without having to notch, cut, or alter the part in any way, aside from removing the evil valve....we used a pick to get the retainer out ...it grabs the ring and pulls one side out for quick and easy removal.

I would not recommend using flat tip screw drivers...a pick is all you need!

Installing it tomorrow and I am sure to see much better shifting in this ride...
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Old Nov 1, 2012 | 11:04 AM
  #754  
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Performed this mod yesterday and really feeling the difference. Not quite as quick my old mitsubishi's 5-spd (drive-by-wire) system but a big improvement over where it was.

Tip: Just order a new Slave and use pick/hook to remove retainer and small screwdriver to push the valve out from the back. Buildup on your old slave can turn a 5 min job into one that seems almost impossible to do.
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Old Feb 12, 2013 | 05:41 AM
  #755  
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Did you ever get around to installing it, Bruce?
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Old Feb 12, 2013 | 07:22 PM
  #756  
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So do people recommend that we buy a new SC and perform this mod on it?
Iv done a few clutch mods and the parts are always so rusty and hard to remove lol I live in Canada, everything rusts

btw I got a quote for the job at a local shop and they said $300 looool f that!
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Old Feb 12, 2013 | 07:22 PM
  #757  
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I would also highly recommend the short shifter...the racing bushings I dont notice too much
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Old Feb 12, 2013 | 07:54 PM
  #758  
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I mean, at 35K my slave was ALREADY leaking fluid from the o ring so I guess it would probably be smarter to just mod and put in a new one.
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Old Feb 13, 2013 | 06:23 AM
  #759  
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I did mine on my original (160k at the time, now 174k) slave with no issues. Makes a BIG difference when shifting quickly. It was tough for me to get the snap ring out, but I too used a pick and it popped right out. Excellent mod.
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Old Feb 13, 2013 | 04:37 PM
  #760  
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Originally Posted by rockstar143
I mean, at 35K my slave was ALREADY leaking fluid from the o ring so I guess it would probably be smarter to just mod and put in a new one.
Thank you. Im at 130 k so I might as well do it as well.
I used to have a 3000gt and when the slave cylinder went in the middle of the highway it wasnt pretty lol
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