A-113: Removal of Slave Cylinder check valve!!!
Joined: Sep 2008
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Will I be able to let up the clutch up faster when shifting?
1-2nd always has a long delay to make the shift smooth, will this allow me to just let the clutch up immediately without jerking?
Joined: Sep 2008
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mounted to the front of the tranny...pop open your hood, look down into the space behind the radiator to the right of the primary cat..it's on the right, about 2 feet deep.
Bruce, YES. Immediately it'll be thoughtless to shift smoothly. Like how ALL other honda's I've ever driven feel.
Bruce, YES. Immediately it'll be thoughtless to shift smoothly. Like how ALL other honda's I've ever driven feel.
I need to do this......I tried and failed a couple weeks ago. I couldn't get the damn fluid line off.
Also....I have a slave I bought from P2R. I couldn't turn the bleeder valve at all and there is no cap on it. Should I be worried?
Also....I have a slave I bought from P2R. I couldn't turn the bleeder valve at all and there is no cap on it. Should I be worried?
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 78,245
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Just out of curiosity, why didn't you go OEM on it? I would just get another one if you're having problems with it being stripped or seized...it was like $80 IIRC...that way, you can remove the checkvalve while off the car...and you can butcher the original one.
My oem one, the o ring at the tip failed ANYWAY at 40K. So I ended up having to replace the slave once, then re remove it to mod it.
My oem one, the o ring at the tip failed ANYWAY at 40K. So I ended up having to replace the slave once, then re remove it to mod it.
Joined: Sep 2008
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I wasn't aware of it!
Probably is...considering it's a simple product.
So your bleeder line on the OEM one is seized up? Spray that bish with penetrating fluid for a few days in a row...
Probably is...considering it's a simple product.
So your bleeder line on the OEM one is seized up? Spray that bish with penetrating fluid for a few days in a row...
^ Oh na, not the OEM one, the one I bought which is currently in my trunk. It didn't come with a cap and I can't get the bleeder valve to move. I'll have my buddy try, he's much more mechanically inclined than I.
mounted to the front of the tranny...pop open your hood, look down into the space behind the radiator to the right of the primary cat..it's on the right, about 2 feet deep.
Bruce, YES. Immediately it'll be thoughtless to shift smoothly. Like how ALL other honda's I've ever driven feel.
Bruce, YES. Immediately it'll be thoughtless to shift smoothly. Like how ALL other honda's I've ever driven feel.
1st gear always needed alot of clutch, now it's pretty minimal.
I need to get used to driving this car now since I no longer need to give each gear the delay while shifting anymore
I've been so programmed to give each gear some clutch to make it smooth in this car.
I certainly recommend this mod, really wish I had done it the week I got the car.
This look very interesting to do and I just noticed this thread ahha, but I was reading ways to remove the SC and wasnt too clear about how to remove it and bleeding it. I wanted to ask if anyone can provide a good step by step with good methods. I like to work on the car myself but not engine work like this so I'm pretty worried. Was planning to buy a new SC and attempting this.
so i just want to make sure if i run into problems i have some clues on fixing it.
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 78,245
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First couple of pages had instructions, thanks to OPEL. I did a DIY too, but it died off as more people came to this thread.
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/if-you-have-6-speed-mt-hate-shifting-read-me-738245/
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-2004-2008-93/if-you-have-6-speed-mt-hate-shifting-read-me-738245/
Hello all, I'm new to the forum here - first post! 
So I've recently got a 2005 TL 6spd and have been building up the courage to get this mod done ever since. Yesterday I finally got it done! Sadly I don't notice any difference whatsoever in the way the car shifts...
I've followed the DIYs here to remove the check valve from the slave cylinder as posted here so I'm confident I've done that part correctly. I'm also 100% confident that the slave cylinder was put back on the car without the check valve... It drives, but exactly as it did before. The delay is still there, which leads me to believe that I must have misunderstood what "delay" this mod was supposed to get rid of. What's bothering me about the way the TL shifts is the delay that comes after the shift when I step on the gas. I rev match on every shift and I feel it "engage" as I release the clutch pedal, however the power isn't available until about .5 second later, which makes the car jerk if I step on the gas right after shifting. I was under the impression that this delay was what this mod was supposed to resolve. Help please

So I've recently got a 2005 TL 6spd and have been building up the courage to get this mod done ever since. Yesterday I finally got it done! Sadly I don't notice any difference whatsoever in the way the car shifts...
I've followed the DIYs here to remove the check valve from the slave cylinder as posted here so I'm confident I've done that part correctly. I'm also 100% confident that the slave cylinder was put back on the car without the check valve... It drives, but exactly as it did before. The delay is still there, which leads me to believe that I must have misunderstood what "delay" this mod was supposed to get rid of. What's bothering me about the way the TL shifts is the delay that comes after the shift when I step on the gas. I rev match on every shift and I feel it "engage" as I release the clutch pedal, however the power isn't available until about .5 second later, which makes the car jerk if I step on the gas right after shifting. I was under the impression that this delay was what this mod was supposed to resolve. Help please
Not trolling, and thanks for the responses.
Yeah I was thinking it could be the drive by wire system so I tried stepping on the gas a little earlier while shifting and it seems better. I let my friend drive it too and he said he didn't notice the "delay" and his shifts were smoother than mine too. The previous car I had was a 2002 civic which was very easy to drive compared to the TL. I think I'm finally starting to get a hang of it though, I'll keep you posted
Yeah I was thinking it could be the drive by wire system so I tried stepping on the gas a little earlier while shifting and it seems better. I let my friend drive it too and he said he didn't notice the "delay" and his shifts were smoother than mine too. The previous car I had was a 2002 civic which was very easy to drive compared to the TL. I think I'm finally starting to get a hang of it though, I'll keep you posted
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 78,245
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Agreed, Nort. It's awesome...and trust me, if you had been used to the drive by wire and STILL annoyed by the delay in grab, you'd have noticed how much better it was now.
It's not so much a delay in acceleration that sucked, it was like...in 1st and 2nd a totally unpredictable grab point for the clutch, so you'd have to baby it to make sure you weren't jumping all over the place. I hated driving this car until I got it done...it felt like my first time driving a stick every time I had to start in 1st...
It's not so much a delay in acceleration that sucked, it was like...in 1st and 2nd a totally unpredictable grab point for the clutch, so you'd have to baby it to make sure you weren't jumping all over the place. I hated driving this car until I got it done...it felt like my first time driving a stick every time I had to start in 1st...
Now I know why I hit the rev limiter the other day on a hard shift, instead of the clutch grabbing like it should and dropping the RPMs into the next gear, the RPMs kept climbing and hit the rev limiter. I couldn't believe it, thought I miss shifted but it was clearly in gear. I always thought the clutch felt kinda "soft", especially for a sport model like this.
Only 17 pages more to read..can't wait to have a normal clutch!
Only 17 pages more to read..can't wait to have a normal clutch!
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 78,245
Likes: 20,198
Well, I'm not sure the checkvalve would account for rpms continuing to climb after letting go of the gas, just a slow response to having the clutch "grab" after release of the clutch pedal.
I removed the check valve yesterday, took about an hour for the whole process. I tried for 15min to take the ring off with a pick set then said f'it and got a filer and created a notch to pop the ring out lol. I noticed immediately when reversing out of the garage the clutch grabbed without having to search for the clutch point. Thanks for this mod, its a must have for anyone with a MT!
Did yours ever slip with the valve on a 2-3 or 3-4 shift near the redline at WOT? (forgot which gear it was)
I don't drive like I used to back in the day either, but I can tell it's slipping a little bit, you can feel it just when you 1st engage the next gear for a second when driving/shifting hard, then it grabs, so I'm hoping it's just the valve.
Had my clutch replaced with oem 9 months ago...now the slave cylinder failed...ordered a new one at 75 total. Got it in yesterday and performed the mod without having to notch, cut, or alter the part in any way, aside from removing the evil valve....we used a pick to get the retainer out ...it grabs the ring and pulls one side out for quick and easy removal.
I would not recommend using flat tip screw drivers...a pick is all you need!
Installing it tomorrow and I am sure to see much better shifting in this ride...
I would not recommend using flat tip screw drivers...a pick is all you need!
Installing it tomorrow and I am sure to see much better shifting in this ride...
Performed this mod yesterday and really feeling the difference. Not quite as quick my old mitsubishi's 5-spd (drive-by-wire) system but a big improvement over where it was. 
Tip: Just order a new Slave and use pick/hook to remove retainer and small screwdriver to push the valve out from the back. Buildup on your old slave can turn a 5 min job into one that seems almost impossible to do.
Tip: Just order a new Slave and use pick/hook to remove retainer and small screwdriver to push the valve out from the back. Buildup on your old slave can turn a 5 min job into one that seems almost impossible to do.
So do people recommend that we buy a new SC and perform this mod on it?
Iv done a few clutch mods and the parts are always so rusty and hard to remove lol I live in Canada, everything rusts
btw I got a quote for the job at a local shop and they said $300 looool f that!
Iv done a few clutch mods and the parts are always so rusty and hard to remove lol I live in Canada, everything rusts

btw I got a quote for the job at a local shop and they said $300 looool f that!
I did mine on my original (160k at the time, now 174k) slave with no issues. Makes a BIG difference when shifting quickly. It was tough for me to get the snap ring out, but I too used a pick and it popped right out. Excellent mod.
I used to have a 3000gt and when the slave cylinder went in the middle of the highway it wasnt pretty
lol





