$500 bucks for mods.
#1
BDN
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$500 bucks for mods.
i have $500 bucks to spend on mods. does anyone have any recommendations an which mods i should get. everything is stock on my car! yeah... i know. its an 04 WDP auto tl
#2
boost 3G
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with 500 i would go with cai, ur pulley and progress rear sway bar dont think youll have much left over after those...but dont know if youll have enough for all three..if not i would save up a little more and get all three!
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#10
Send me the $500.....
Oh now I get it, you want to mod YOUR car...
Well, that's different then...
CAI (AEM V2) You'll love it every time you hit 4800 rpm.
Save up the rest until you have enough for a J-Pipe and Test Pipe combo... These 3 things will make a real difference in everyday driving...
My 2 cents
Oh now I get it, you want to mod YOUR car...
Well, that's different then...
CAI (AEM V2) You'll love it every time you hit 4800 rpm.
Save up the rest until you have enough for a J-Pipe and Test Pipe combo... These 3 things will make a real difference in everyday driving...
My 2 cents
#14
Burning Brakes
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#17
Burning Brakes
Just so you know, a CAI will probably only give you 5whp at most. It's not really one of those mods that'll give you mind-blowing performance. Of course it'll help, but it's mostly just for the sound. I can't really justify spending 200 bucks on it though unless if I had nothing else to spend it on.
#19
one of your vendors posted this a WHILE back, if you search. Exhaust wise this is your best bet with the money you got
Compilation of all stages of exhaust resonator modification.
So I took the time and made this post so all of the new people don't have to go through 20 pages of discussion.
So far, there are 4 stages of this exhaust mod.
Stage 1.
Least noticeable in exhaust note increase.
Configuration:
Stock exhaust.
Remove mid-muffler. Replace with 2.5" straight pipe. Everything else remains stock.
Cost: Can be anywhere from $30-$60 w/aluminized pipping.
Stage 2.
A tad louder than stage one, a bit more pronounced tone.
Configuration:
Stock exhaust.
Remove mid-muffler. Replace with 2.5" straight pipe.
Remove stock resonator. Replace with Magnaflow resonator part# 10416.
Magnaflow resonator is a 14" long resonator, which dampens and changes the note of the stock exhaust a bit more, thus you get a bit more loudness/tone.
Cost: Magnaflow resonator costs around $60. Install ranges from $60 -$90 w/ aluminized pipping.
Stage 3.
(Tone result TBA)
Stock exhaust.
Remove mid-muffler. Replace with 2.5" straight pipe.
Remove stock resonator. Replace with Dynomax resonator part# WLK-24215.
Dynomax resonator is a 12" long resonator, which is a bit shorter and less dampening than the magnaflow resonator, thus it should give you a bit more loudness/tone than stage 2.
Cost: Dynomax resonator costs around $40. Install ranges from $60 - $90 w/aluminized pipping.
Stage 4.
Loudest setup out of all 3. Has a bit of a rasp, similar to M3 exhaust setup.
Stock exhaust.
Remove Mid-muffler. Replace with a 2.5" straight pipe.
Remove stock resonator. Replace with a 2.5" straight pipe.
Cost: Can be anywhere from $40 - $60.
Note: If you live in a climate that is prone to rain, snow, rust, Stainless steel pipping is highly recommended.
This also does not prevent you from passing smog, as it does not alter the characteristics of the catalytic converters, but it does not mean that this is street legal either as it does alter the stock setup of the exhaust.
Media.
Stage 1: Revving
Stage 1: Revving
Stage 2: Revving
Stage 2: Revving Pt.2
Stage 2: Inside Revving
Stage 2: Drive By
Stage 3: Windows Down Driving
Stage 3: Revving
Stage 3: Drive By 1
Stage 3: Drive By 2
Stage 3: 2007 TL-S all-in-one
Stage 4: Revving
Stock Exhaust Configuration.
Stage 1.
Stage2.
Stage3.
Magnaflow Resonator 10416
Dynomax Resonator WLK-24215
Good luck!
aznbo187
So I took the time and made this post so all of the new people don't have to go through 20 pages of discussion.
So far, there are 4 stages of this exhaust mod.
Stage 1.
Least noticeable in exhaust note increase.
Configuration:
Stock exhaust.
Remove mid-muffler. Replace with 2.5" straight pipe. Everything else remains stock.
Cost: Can be anywhere from $30-$60 w/aluminized pipping.
Stage 2.
A tad louder than stage one, a bit more pronounced tone.
Configuration:
Stock exhaust.
Remove mid-muffler. Replace with 2.5" straight pipe.
Remove stock resonator. Replace with Magnaflow resonator part# 10416.
Magnaflow resonator is a 14" long resonator, which dampens and changes the note of the stock exhaust a bit more, thus you get a bit more loudness/tone.
Cost: Magnaflow resonator costs around $60. Install ranges from $60 -$90 w/ aluminized pipping.
Stage 3.
(Tone result TBA)
Stock exhaust.
Remove mid-muffler. Replace with 2.5" straight pipe.
Remove stock resonator. Replace with Dynomax resonator part# WLK-24215.
Dynomax resonator is a 12" long resonator, which is a bit shorter and less dampening than the magnaflow resonator, thus it should give you a bit more loudness/tone than stage 2.
Cost: Dynomax resonator costs around $40. Install ranges from $60 - $90 w/aluminized pipping.
Stage 4.
Loudest setup out of all 3. Has a bit of a rasp, similar to M3 exhaust setup.
Stock exhaust.
Remove Mid-muffler. Replace with a 2.5" straight pipe.
Remove stock resonator. Replace with a 2.5" straight pipe.
Cost: Can be anywhere from $40 - $60.
Note: If you live in a climate that is prone to rain, snow, rust, Stainless steel pipping is highly recommended.
This also does not prevent you from passing smog, as it does not alter the characteristics of the catalytic converters, but it does not mean that this is street legal either as it does alter the stock setup of the exhaust.
Media.
Stage 1: Revving
Stage 1: Revving
Stage 2: Revving
Stage 2: Revving Pt.2
Stage 2: Inside Revving
Stage 2: Drive By
Stage 3: Windows Down Driving
Stage 3: Revving
Stage 3: Drive By 1
Stage 3: Drive By 2
Stage 3: 2007 TL-S all-in-one
Stage 4: Revving
Stock Exhaust Configuration.
Stage 1.
Stage2.
Stage3.
Magnaflow Resonator 10416
Dynomax Resonator WLK-24215
Good luck!
aznbo187
#20
Burning Brakes
You could get the RV6 J-pipe and race pipe for a good boost in performance for less than 500 bucks. If you want sound you can get a mid-muffler delete done at a good muffler shop for less than 100 bucks.
#23
Shyne
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If you want mainly sound and power.
Like everyone else said; Intake, Pulley, Rear Sway Bar.
However if I had to start modifying all over again I'd get coilovers first. I think a drop and handling wise it makes the car look and feel 100x better.
Like everyone else said; Intake, Pulley, Rear Sway Bar.
However if I had to start modifying all over again I'd get coilovers first. I think a drop and handling wise it makes the car look and feel 100x better.
#25
Chapter Leader (San Antonio)
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Get the Jpipe and UR Pulley.
CAI frees up maybe 5-10 (which isn't proven) CAI is almost for it sounds on high RPMs if you want that just save up money for the ATLP Quad
UR Pulley adds a quarter length to 1/4 mile (decreases weight by 100LBS)
Jpipe gets 10-25 WHP
#26
Wrong in every way.
Get the Jpipe and UR Pulley.
CAI frees up maybe 5-10 (which isn't proven) CAI is almost for it sounds on high RPMs if you want that just save up money for the ATLP Quad
UR Pulley adds a quarter length to 1/4 mile (decreases weight by 100LBS)
Jpipe gets 10-25 WHP
Get the Jpipe and UR Pulley.
CAI frees up maybe 5-10 (which isn't proven) CAI is almost for it sounds on high RPMs if you want that just save up money for the ATLP Quad
UR Pulley adds a quarter length to 1/4 mile (decreases weight by 100LBS)
Jpipe gets 10-25 WHP
#27
boost 3G
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Wrong in every way.
Get the Jpipe and UR Pulley.
CAI frees up maybe 5-10 (which isn't proven) CAI is almost for it sounds on high RPMs if you want that just save up money for the ATLP Quad
UR Pulley adds a quarter length to 1/4 mile (decreases weight by 100LBS)
Jpipe gets 10-25 WHP
Get the Jpipe and UR Pulley.
CAI frees up maybe 5-10 (which isn't proven) CAI is almost for it sounds on high RPMs if you want that just save up money for the ATLP Quad
UR Pulley adds a quarter length to 1/4 mile (decreases weight by 100LBS)
Jpipe gets 10-25 WHP
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-performance-parts-modifications-112/dynos-before-after-aem-ct-catback-576360/
#29
For $500, I wonder if I can get the rear sway bar & the R-V6 strut bar. Hmm.
#31
Burning Brakes
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Wrong in every way.
Get the Jpipe and UR Pulley.
CAI frees up maybe 5-10 (which isn't proven) CAI is almost for it sounds on high RPMs if you want that just save up money for the ATLP Quad
UR Pulley adds a quarter length to 1/4 mile (decreases weight by 100LBS)
Jpipe gets 10-25 WHP
Get the Jpipe and UR Pulley.
CAI frees up maybe 5-10 (which isn't proven) CAI is almost for it sounds on high RPMs if you want that just save up money for the ATLP Quad
UR Pulley adds a quarter length to 1/4 mile (decreases weight by 100LBS)
Jpipe gets 10-25 WHP
OP if I were u I would go with arm v2 and a pulley and there's 500 bucks right there
#33
Chapter Leader (San Antonio)
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Sorry I meant with the pre-cat deletes. Iuno I'm not a fan of CAIs, even with the slight gain of HP, I don't think its worth it considering the cost and what you could get with a little more, especially, when I live in Texas when it rains 24/7! Jpipe, to me, is better up than a CAI.
Last edited by TheChamp531; 04-21-2009 at 02:35 AM.
#34
+1^ I would (and am going to) get a J-pipe first and just remove your mid muffler. I already removed mine and it's sick! With a j-pipe and no mid muffler, I have heard it has a nice g35/350z exhaust note, plus you'll get a noticable performance gain as well.