colonelburke

Ok, i have really learned alot through the search function. One of those things is to provide as much information as you can when seeking the advice. That said, I'll do my best.

I have a 2005 Base TL, Non-navi. I will be installing the DICE MediaBridge soon, but want to upgrade my front speakers when I do this. I listen to satellite radio alot, and will listen to everything from Bill King to Shade 45, to old rock, and alas, Faction. (I am still upset the canceled Fungus as that was my primary station. Faction can be decent when they are playing music and not Ellis).

I already have, from my last vehicle, a Kenwood KAC-8104d amp that powered my Pioneer TS-SW3041D shallow mount 12" sub.

I would like to put a nice set of component speakers up front. My budget is no more than $200 if it can be helped. What are my options at that price point? Can I install the component's tweeters in the factory tweeter holes? Will my Kenwood amp also power the front speakers, or should I get an amp for them as well? If I need a new amp for the front, I would appreciate a good moderately priced suggestion.

Thanks for the help, and I hope I have provided enough information.

eggyhustles

Massike rk6 is 180..

No, your kenwood amp won't work.

I'd use this to power the comps
http://cgi.ebay.com/SOUNDSTREAM-RUB4...item4159e9ec3e

colonelburke

Thanks eggy. Dumb question maybe, but will those Massive tweeters fit in the stock tweeter holes? Do I need to get a new center channel speaker?

dwb993

iTrader: (13)

I replaced my factory tweets and center channel with Infinity Reference. I had to dremel the factory grille for the tweets to make them fit. A few dabs of hotglue and I was done---very easy.
I just recently replaced the front door speakers with Infinity Reference 6032si. I'm pleased with them, but they have a switchable tweeter setting (they are 2 way speakers) that I left on the bright setting and I want to tone them down.
I had read that putting 2 ways in the doors effs up your image stage. While it has changed, I'm hoping that turning the tweets down will help. It's bad, per se, just different.
I also have disconnected my OEM sub and run a 10" Pioneer via LOC. The best part about this is no more rear deck rattles!

jda123

The factory holes are mostly good to go. Most aftermarket 6.5s will require a 3/4 to 1" ring to make them fit. The tweeters will usually go right in and you can even cut the stock grills to flush mount them.

The massives don't have an adjustable crossover and some people have not seemed happy with that. I have never had any, so I don't know. Do some searching or see if TrunkMonkey has anything to say about them, but I don't remember that he was too happy at first. They might be fine for all that I know.

You don't need a new center channel speaker, but they are cheap if you want to do it. There are several that people have used (boston s35 and infinity 3032) that are 2-way and will run on the factory amp. They are 3.5". The boston s35 does sound better than the stocker.

dwb993

iTrader: (13)

fixed

colonelburke

Thanks guys, good info. I had not heard that on the Massives. The other set I am considering is the Image Dynamics CTX65 (I think that is what they are called). How do those compare to the Massives? Thanks.

DeathMetal

iTrader: (2)

For around $200, you can purchase individual speakers, tweets, and a center channel speaker. I simply upgraded these components and have been QUITE pleased. The biggest difference lies in the tweeters, so this is one possible solution to the matter.

I have a smiliar setup to dwb993, and like he says, it's a nice upgrade.

jda123

ID CTX is a nice set for the money. Keep in mind that crossovers can be just as important as drivers if you are not going to process.

I know that it is out of your range, but ID CXS are selling for $280 shipped in DIY right now on a special closeout. If you can come up with the extra $80, I doubt that you will regret it. This is a great set of silk domes which I have had in a 3G TL. The midbass is top-of-the-line for sets under $500ish, IMO. They will take some power too.

colonelburke

Great thanks for all of the help. I'll provide a review of the MediaBridge after I get it installed.

colonelburke

Also on my wish list is for DeathMetal to do LEDs in my interior, but there is a geographic limitation. Great job on that.

I hate cars

That's weird about the massives not having an adjustable crossover. My lower end massive ck set have an adjustable tweeter level.

If you upgrade the center, don't waste your time with a 3.5". A shallow 6.5" like the massive ck-6 easily fits and will blow any 3.5 away.

SurfingScotty

This question is directed to Eggy. Mr. Hustles, I know you are a huge fan of the RK6's and I'm planning on buying a set solely off your recommendation. I have a 4 channel Kicker amp currently push the stock speakers and I have been satisfied with the way they sound (for being a stock car speaker) but lately I've been listing to them at louder volumes and the rears are not handling the volume demands.

I'm opposite to everyone here it seems: I mainly listen to my rears and use the fronts as fill. I've read that the RK6's are easy to install. Is that the case for the rear, too? Do I need any spacers or any rear deck modifying needed? Finally, as they have a separate tweeter, where are people locating it?

Thanks in advance!

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

Why and more importantly HOW are you using the fronts for fill and listening to the rears? lol. The RK6's will need a 1" spacer (search ebay for rk6 mdf spacer), you'll need to cut the metal on the door for the magnet to fit, and you'll need a TON of power through the passives. Make sure you buy the new version of the RK6 as they fixed the x-over. From what I hear, the CK version sounds a lot better than the RK's. Both have new versions as of a few weeks ago that fixed the stupidly loud tweeter issue.

I'm not even sure if these would fit in the rear and you're factory deck cover would stick up like crazy. Don't do rears...just turn them off or fade to the front.

There are multiple ways to do the tweeters in the factory location. You'll see and figure out what you like and what to do when you pick up a set of components.

I hate cars

I've never ever heard of anyone using the front for fill and the rears as the mains. I can only imagine how that sounds.

SurfingScotty

If "C" equals centered or equal disbursement, I fade the stereo to a value on 3-4 on the factory stereo display meaning that the majority of sound is coming from the rear speakers. What does everyone else set there values to? I usually set a value of "1" to the right speakers.

The reason I'm looking to upgrade is because I'm running a Kicker 4-Channel and I'm just noticing distortion, even with the bass set all the way down to "0" or "1". I only hear it through the rear speakers. When I fade all the way to the fronts at the same volume, I don't hear any distortion. I installer said he didn't think they sounded blown, just that they can't handle the amount of power I'm sending to them.

Any ideas?

SurfingScotty

So what are people using for the rears? I'm getting a lot of distortion through my factory rears and I don't listen to my music THAT loud. I can't imagine people are able to listen to their factory's at louder volumes than me w/o the speakers failing.

Do you know of anyone who has a DIY or pictures of their door installation? I'm a little scared of cutting up my doors.

I hate cars

I think it's time to take a step back and reassess what you're doing.

Put any aftermarket speakers in the front. The stock rears are fine. The distortion you're hearing is likely from the stock amp. I put an aftermarket amp on my stock rears and they sounded surprisingly good for stock and got loud but the high pass crossover had to be set at 100hz or above.

Do you have a 2g with the 6x9s in the rear or a 3g with the 6.5s?

Generally speaking, people upgrade only the front components. Save the money you would spend on the rear and center for better fronts.

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

Just fronts will be plenty loud for you. Trust me. Look into the the new version of the CK6 Stage V components for that price. Or the ID CTX. Both are solid if you want to stay under 2 bills

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

Then fade the rear speakers out of the equation. You could be hearing distortion, slight rattle, blown speaker, who knows. By the way, fading the stock setup to the front and listening isn't anywhere near what nice aftermarket components (mainly with processing) will sound like.

No rears.

And look at my build thread. Pics in there and I'm sure I said how I did it and what I used. It's not that scary. Just buy your speakers and MDF rings first so you know how big you'll need the hole.

SurfingScotty

I'll have to go look at what my cross over's are set at. The amp is not easily accessable but I'll adjust the crossover to >100 htz.

My stock speakers are the 6.5's all the way around.

SurfingScotty

Yeah, there's no way I could listen to music faded only to the front, or all the way to the rear. I only faded to rule out the fronts from having the same issue. My installe said it's not a blown speaker sound, rather it sounded like they were unable to handle the power I was throwing at them. ???

SurfingScotty

Okay: Crossovers were set to 100 htz. Changed them up slowly to 175, same distortion all the way up. I have the stereo hooked up to my ipod through Isimple connector. Unplugged and connected through 1/8" jack. Same issue. Swapped Ipod for Iphone, same issue. My stock speakers are the 6.5's all the way around. I don't hear the distortion through the fronts at the same volume that I DO hear in the rears, in fact I don't hear any distortion through the fronts. The amp I'm running is the Kicker ZX350.4 http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...r-ZX350.4.html I believe my installer hooked up all the speakers through the amp minus the center and sub, those are being powered by the factory Acura amp.

I am at a loss. The only thing I can think of is that the amp is bad or the rear speakers are blow. Can I swap the wires feeding the fronts to the rears and see if I still have the same distortion in the rear or more interesting, see if it transfers up to the front speaker? I don't know if the stock Acura amp is causing the problem or not.

I hate cars

Switch the speaker wires at the amp. If the rears are still distorted, it's the speakers. If it moves to the front, it's the amp, rcas, or HU.

Have you tried the simple stuff first like fading all the way rear and putting it only on the left and then right to see if only one speaker is making the noise.

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

Switch speaker wire into the amp from Front to Rear and Rear to Front. Then you'll know if it's an amp problem or speaker problem.

Also, can you not fade towards the front about halfway and rule out the distortion on the rears?? ....that's much closer to how it should be anyways.

Edit: Damn you Matt! lol

SurfingScotty

First thing I did before posting was fade all the way to the rears. I think I mentioned that I don't get any distortion in the fronts at the same volume that I get (fadded all the way to the fronts) in the rears. I won't have time until Tuesday to swap the wires but I'll post as soon as I do. Thanks for the help!

SurfingScotty

Okay, finally got some time to work on it tonight. Swapped the front speaker wires for the rears on the amp. Same problem, only the distortion seems audible at even lower volumes now. Swapped the wires back to their correct positions.

What now?

I hate cars

Did the distortion stay in the rear? If so, one or both of the rear speakers are blown. If it moved to the front, swap the RCAs and see if it moves.

SurfingScotty

Nah, stayed in the rears. Could it be an issue of not enough/too much power be sent?? My Amp is 350 Watt RMS bridged = powering the front door, rear deck, and dash speakers.

I hate cars

More than likely you have a blown speaker or two.

SurfingScotty

Well thanks for you help guys. It's almost winter here and I'll be moving out of state next summer so I'll fade the tunes mostly to the front and re-eval next summer when I need more volume due to driving with the windows down.

**thanked**