Hi everybody,

My 2004 has developed a buzz in the left front dash speaker. Reading the forum it appears an 2004-2008 OEM amp replacement will probably fix the problem.

I posted a WTB in the parts forum. Nothing seems to be on ebay. Any suggestions where else I should look?

Thanks.

 

call some junk yards

$360 for a new one hurts

if you were local i'd let you try mine to make sure it clears things up, rather than buying on hope alone
but as of now mine has only been out for week ... i need the dust layer on it to grow a little before i feel like parting with it

try posting on diymobileaudio

 

try e-bay

http://www.ebay.com/itm/04-05-06-ACU...aaf080&vxp=mtr

good luck

 

Having the same problem.

I noticed when it first started it went away after the car warmed up.
Then it stopped going away. This morning I cranked the volume up to about 37 for 10 min and then when I turned it down to 3 or 4 it seemed to get "better." Not totally gone by not nearly as noticeable.

That leads me to believe:
A) It was the Amp that needed to warm up, not the car
B) It's getting worse

The amp is located in the passenger kick panel, I've seen pictures around here showing it and the panel being held in by a push pin. Any tips on removing this 9 year old plastic panel without breaking anything?

I'm going to try to remove the amp from the car and from it's casing, then heat the circuit board gently with a heat gun to see if the cracked joints will re-form in the ball-grid-array attached chips. My theory is this is essentially what is happening now when the amp heats up, these joints are closing, just not permanently.

I did this with the playstation 3 and fixed the issue it was having. I figured if I'm going to spend $300-$400 on a new amp I might as well go down swinging. I'm not handy enough with a solder gun to actually reform the joints by hand, but as long as the board is level when heating it, it should cause the balls to reform in their locations. (I know this sounds far-fetched because it did to me when I first read it but it worked on the PS3).

I'll post up how it turns out.

 

The reballing procedure appears to have worked, at least for now.

Amp removal:
1. Remove right hand kick panel
2. Remove upper kick panel
(both pull out gently)
3. Remove two lower 10mm bolts holding amp
4. Loosen nut at top of amp that secures bracket (no need to remove)
5. Unplug rear word plug (black) from amp
6. Slip off black wire cover attached to amp (pull clips out and slide
7. Wiggle amp out to the floorboard
8. Unplug larger amp plug (had to hold release and use screwdriver to pry out-mine was snug fit)

Amp repair
1. Remove 4 side screws and 4 back plate screws ( leave the 4 screws on the plug side)
2. Slide Amp board out of metal Heatsink.
3. Lay on flat surface and slowly go over the board with heat gun. Don't stay in one spot too long, and avoid capacitors. Focus on chips and any cold solder joints
4. Allow board to cool before moving. !important
5. Turn board over and set on something such that it is again level. This time you can't use a flat surface because of plugs/brackets
6. Repeat steps 3 and 4
Re assemble, test plug in and if it works reinstall. Otherwise repeat procedure or replace amp.

 

Or send to "Carstereohelp.com"........more info in link below.....


https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-problems-fixes-114/static-center-speaker-only-when-car-running-tl-04-navigation-898843/

 

Thanks for the info. I need to do this, or check shipping charges from Puerto Rico to "Carstereohelp.com". Cant's find a place to repair the unit here.