Visualogic VMOD (Media On Demand)
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yeah and the switch is only 7 dollars from www.acuraoemparts.com that way it looks factory still yet.
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It looks like you'd also need to buy the bulb for it which is $3.21. I will probably just go to the dealership and pick this up since you only save about $3.50 ordering it online and shipping will probably cost that much.
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Ah yeah that's a good point about you being in Hawaii. On the acuraoem website it shows the list price only being slightly higher so hopefully the dealership won't try and rip you off.
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Yes that is correct but you need to make sure that you have them going to the right post. So your normally open circuit will be the will be the 4 wires from the usb controller. Your normally closed circuit will be the wires from the touchscreen and your common wires are the ones going back to the factory circuit board.
One thing though, the wiring diagram that you posted earlier shows normally open going to the factory computer board and common going to the touchscreen. This seems to make more sense to me since I would think that the touchscreen would always be common and that you'd be switching between sending the commands between the board and the usb controller.
You're the expert here so I want to make sure my diagram is accurate.
Sorry you are correct. Common does go to the touchscreen since that is the one that will be used on both circuits either the touchscreen controller or factory board. I was thinking that the factory board does all the decisions on where you are touching the screen. So please follow the diagram that i drew since the touchscreen is the one that will be used for both and you are switching from pc to factory navi when you energize the relay. If you wanna get familiar with the relay i would suggest just to make a simple circuit with 2 12v bulbs try to make them light up before the relay is energized and after the relay is energize. This way you can play and make sense of how the relay circuit works. You can also get out of control once you learn how it works and start wiring mulitple relays and having them do different things. I had fun making all kinds or things light up with the relay and turning things on and off. But you are reading the relay circuitry correctly.
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Sorry you are correct. Common does go to the touchscreen since that is the one that will be used on both circuits either the touchscreen controller or factory board. I was thinking that the factory board does all the decisions on where you are touching the screen. So please follow the diagram that i drew since the touchscreen is the one that will be used for both and you are switching from pc to factory navi when you energize the relay. If you wanna get familiar with the relay i would suggest just to make a simple circuit with 2 12v bulbs try to make them light up before the relay is energized and after the relay is energize. This way you can play and make sense of how the relay circuit works. You can also get out of control once you learn how it works and start wiring mulitple relays and having them do different things. I had fun making all kinds or things light up with the relay and turning things on and off. But you are reading the relay circuitry correctly.
So did I have the normally open, normally closed, and common rows correct according to the diagram?
That sounds like a cool idea to test how a relay works. It's times like this that I wish I had gone to school for this type of thing, although I love what I do.
you have the relay correct with normally closed, normally open, and common. But if you play with the relay than you can really understand how the thing works. You will have fun. I konw i do when i make all kinds of crazy circuitry.
Ohhh and the good thing with 12v is there is really no correct way of hooking the bulbs up they will light up when you put either wire to each side, they are now pick. But be carefully if you play with circuitry cause they only have one way in and one way out.
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Thanks for the tips. What do you use to power a relay when you're doing these tests? One of those portable batteries like I've seen people using on the headlight DIYs and things like that?
i have like old external hard drive cases or any external computer equipment will take 120v ac and convert it to 12v or 5v dc the only junk thing is that it will only give like 5 amps at the most which is not enough to power heavy relays or other heavy dc things. Check under the charging block or power block and you will see a 12v or 5v output. Cut the wires and use a multimeter to determine which one is ground and which one is power.
Hey jaymurff25 did you by any chance receive your scan do unit (black box). If so can you take pictures of your power supply since my unit did not come with it and the ebay seller has not answered any of my emails. Or if you could tell me what the power requirements are for the unit. All i know is that it needs 5vdc center positive and outer negative but not sure if that is the max or minimum voltage and what is the amount of amps it needs to work. Thanks
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Hey jaymurff25 did you by any chance receive your scan do unit (black box). If so can you take pictures of your power supply since my unit did not come with it and the ebay seller has not answered any of my emails. Or if you could tell me what the power requirements are for the unit. All i know is that it needs 5vdc center positive and outer negative but not sure if that is the max or minimum voltage and what is the amount of amps it needs to work. Thanks
its ok thanks for that but i will have to make a custom plug. Im not sure how you were going to make the power to the scan do unit. But if you have the m2-atx power supply for your carpc you can use the 5v of that to power the scan do. Thanks for the pics.
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I also updated the relay wiring diagram so I think that I am good to go on understanding how this all goes together.
As for the power supply, I haven't planned out the CarPC yet but I've read that the Opus 150 (I think) is a good one to get for them.
im not sure how the opus works but the common one is the m2-atx is your common power supply that majority of the carpc guys seem to be using. Plus i bought a complete kit for under $300 just less the hard drive and os.
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http://store.mp3car.com/OPUS_320W_In..._p/pwr-024.htm
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http://www.mp3car.com/vbulletin/1270881-post16.html
I'm using the Opus DCX6-320 and have been very satisfied with it. Just to give you a rundown on what it can power from my experience, read the list below:
I have it connected to an Shuttle FT20 motherboard with three thermaltake 80mm fans while running a 2.2Ghz dual core socket 939 processor, 2x2GB of system ram, a dedicated PCI-Express GPU card - the BFG Nvidia GeForce 8500GT 1GB DDR2, Sound Blaster X-Fi Professional series add-in sound card with 64MB of XRAM.
For the hard drives, I have two 3.5", WD150AFD 10,000 rpm Raptors in RAID0 (the pair have since been replaced by a 300GB, 10,000 RPM VelociRaptor, and a 7,200 RPM, 1.5 Terabyte Seagate Barracuda). Also connected to the power supply is a full sized 24X Samsung lightscribe multi-format dvd burner, a Dynex 30 in 1 multi-format USB memory card reader, three four-port USB hubs daisy chained, totaling twelve peripherals that are always on. Drive letters B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I, J, K, L, M, O, P, are in use by Windows Vista.
If you thought like I did, that the PSU was already at maximum overload, get this- the DCX6-320 is also providing a constant 12Volt regulated power output to my seventeen inch widescreen flat panel LCD display!
Rest assured, tried, tested, and approved...this is the only power supply you would realistically ever need for automotive purposes.
Bang for the buck, I'll admit the Opus DC6-320 is a tad bit on the high side, nevertheless, it has been in use for over a year now and has outperformed the actual PSU that came with the Shuttle ST20G5 gaming PC box, and also the Antec450 aftermarket PSU.
I ordered mine online, through www.opussolutions.com. The package arrived on time as promised, double boxed with popcorn foam. Included were the wiring harness (2 ea), external mount LED with connector, various jumpers, and installation instructions.
The DCX6-320 is assembled with superior craftsmanship using some of the finest electronic components. I give it a 10 out of 10 kick*** product rating
~DMand
I have it connected to an Shuttle FT20 motherboard with three thermaltake 80mm fans while running a 2.2Ghz dual core socket 939 processor, 2x2GB of system ram, a dedicated PCI-Express GPU card - the BFG Nvidia GeForce 8500GT 1GB DDR2, Sound Blaster X-Fi Professional series add-in sound card with 64MB of XRAM.
For the hard drives, I have two 3.5", WD150AFD 10,000 rpm Raptors in RAID0 (the pair have since been replaced by a 300GB, 10,000 RPM VelociRaptor, and a 7,200 RPM, 1.5 Terabyte Seagate Barracuda). Also connected to the power supply is a full sized 24X Samsung lightscribe multi-format dvd burner, a Dynex 30 in 1 multi-format USB memory card reader, three four-port USB hubs daisy chained, totaling twelve peripherals that are always on. Drive letters B, C, D, E, F, G, H, I, J, K, L, M, O, P, are in use by Windows Vista.
If you thought like I did, that the PSU was already at maximum overload, get this- the DCX6-320 is also providing a constant 12Volt regulated power output to my seventeen inch widescreen flat panel LCD display!
Rest assured, tried, tested, and approved...this is the only power supply you would realistically ever need for automotive purposes.
Bang for the buck, I'll admit the Opus DC6-320 is a tad bit on the high side, nevertheless, it has been in use for over a year now and has outperformed the actual PSU that came with the Shuttle ST20G5 gaming PC box, and also the Antec450 aftermarket PSU.
I ordered mine online, through www.opussolutions.com. The package arrived on time as promised, double boxed with popcorn foam. Included were the wiring harness (2 ea), external mount LED with connector, various jumpers, and installation instructions.
The DCX6-320 is assembled with superior craftsmanship using some of the finest electronic components. I give it a 10 out of 10 kick*** product rating
~DMand
That is way over kill for a carpc. I just need my car pc to play my music, movies and support all the functions of gps software. I dont spend enough time in my car to put a killer system like that to use.
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Yeah same here, I suppose if I had a full sound system, multiple lcd's, lighting, etc. then it would be great but I am not planning on putting any of that stuff in.
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So I finally got all the tools and wires and all that stuff to get the navi wired up this weekend and it's been in and out of the car about 10 times now with me trying to figure out what is wrong. I have tested every connection for continuity with the relay being powered and not and every connection is good all the way through as far as I can get without it being in the car. As soon as I put it in the car and start the car up I get the enter code screen on the navi display and no matter where I touch nothing happens. The only 2 things that I cannot test are the ribbon from the touchscreen going into the FFC but I'm pretty sure that's fine. The other thing I can't test is where new ribbon goes into the computer board and I think this is where the issue is because even though the touchscreen ribbon only has 4 pins the computer board has 5 pins and I'm wondering if it's not lining up correctly. Any thoughts on this?
do you have any pics? Try and see if you unplug the ribbon from the connector and back to the board if it works? If it does than one of your connections from the relay back to the circuit board is not making the right connection. Next you said that the computer board has 5 pins? This may be the problem if you could post pics than i maybe able to find out where things are going wrong.
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Yeah if I unplug the ribbon from the connector back to the board like it was before the mod it works fine. I'm thinking that it has to be in the ribbon connecting to the board because I'm 110% certain that all of my connections are good on the relay. I tested them by connecting it to an AC/DC converter that plugs into the wall in my house and flipped it on and tested the connections going from the touchscreen connector all the way to the usb controller and it was great. Then flipped the power off and tested both the usb controller (nothing) and the factory connector and that worked just as I'd expect.
Give me about 30 minutes and then I'll post some pics and you can see if you see anything wrong.
Give me about 30 minutes and then I'll post some pics and you can see if you see anything wrong.
What about your common connections have you tested continuity between each leg from there? Are any of your legs switched during the install from common to the board meaning that leg 1 from touchscreen goes to leg 1 common and so forth with the others.
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Actually let me clarify, the relay is numbered 1-12, plus 13 and 14 for power/ground.
1-4 is the farthest from the power/ground and is normally closed so it goes to the factory board when the relay is off.
5-8 is the middle row and is normally open so it goes to the usb controller when the relay is on.
9-12 is the row closest to the power/ground and is the common row which goes to the touchscreen ribbon and is always connected.
So when the relay is off, 1 and 9 are connected, 2 and 10, etc. When the relay is on its 5 and 9, 6 and 10, etc.
Sound right?
This is the diagram I did earlier for it
1-4 is the farthest from the power/ground and is normally closed so it goes to the factory board when the relay is off.
5-8 is the middle row and is normally open so it goes to the usb controller when the relay is on.
9-12 is the row closest to the power/ground and is the common row which goes to the touchscreen ribbon and is always connected.
So when the relay is off, 1 and 9 are connected, 2 and 10, etc. When the relay is on its 5 and 9, 6 and 10, etc.
Sound right?
This is the diagram I did earlier for it
ok it may look like the 5 pins on the circuit board but that may also be 5 spaces and 4 pins you may need to get it lined up perfect. But everything else looks good from the pictures. Test continuity on the factory circuit board to determine which is the electrical connection and which one is the spacer than line the plug up with those connections and see it that works.
Actually let me clarify, the relay is numbered 1-12, plus 13 and 14 for power/ground.
1-4 is the farthest from the power/ground and is normally closed so it goes to the factory board when the relay is off.
5-8 is the middle row and is normally open so it goes to the usb controller when the relay is on.
9-12 is the row closest to the power/ground and is the common row which goes to the touchscreen ribbon and is always connected.
So when the relay is off, 1 and 9 are connected, 2 and 10, etc. When the relay is on its 5 and 9, 6 and 10, etc.
Sound right?
This is the diagram I did earlier for it
1-4 is the farthest from the power/ground and is normally closed so it goes to the factory board when the relay is off.
5-8 is the middle row and is normally open so it goes to the usb controller when the relay is on.
9-12 is the row closest to the power/ground and is the common row which goes to the touchscreen ribbon and is always connected.
So when the relay is off, 1 and 9 are connected, 2 and 10, etc. When the relay is on its 5 and 9, 6 and 10, etc.
Sound right?
This is the diagram I did earlier for it
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This is probably going to sound stupid but how can I test which is the electrical and which is the spacer?
Oh and keeping this thing from shifting from one side to the other is extremely difficult because with both of those ribbons being in there it has a lot of pressure on it to move around. Can that ribbon (the non-factory one) be folded up to make it more compact? I wish that I could glue that sucker down to keep it in place but I'm sure that's not a good idea.
Oh and keeping this thing from shifting from one side to the other is extremely difficult because with both of those ribbons being in there it has a lot of pressure on it to move around. Can that ribbon (the non-factory one) be folded up to make it more compact? I wish that I could glue that sucker down to keep it in place but I'm sure that's not a good idea.
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I just really wish there was a way to test this thing without putting it in the car and removing it. I am tired of pulling those plugs out!
This is probably going to sound stupid but how can I test which is the electrical and which is the spacer?
Oh and keeping this thing from shifting from one side to the other is extremely difficult because with both of those ribbons being in there it has a lot of pressure on it to move around. Can that ribbon (the non-factory one) be folded up to make it more compact? I wish that I could glue that sucker down to keep it in place but I'm sure that's not a good idea.
Oh and keeping this thing from shifting from one side to the other is extremely difficult because with both of those ribbons being in there it has a lot of pressure on it to move around. Can that ribbon (the non-factory one) be folded up to make it more compact? I wish that I could glue that sucker down to keep it in place but I'm sure that's not a good idea.
Yeah that's what I figured, although I didn't know there was a such thing as spacers. From what I can tell when it lines it might be that the pins on the ribbon are lining up with the spaces on the board but it's difficult to tell.
I just really wish there was a way to test this thing without putting it in the car and removing it. I am tired of pulling those plugs out!
I just really wish there was a way to test this thing without putting it in the car and removing it. I am tired of pulling those plugs out!
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I think I might need to get a new ribbon though since I doubt I can get that ribbon to stay in place without sliding left or right once the screen is put back together. Do you have any suggestions for keeping the ribbon from sliding? Is it safe to put a small piece of electrical tape over the ribbon and onto the board to hold it in place?
you could use paper or any non metallic item to pin it tight in there and electrical tape is perfectly fine as well. But from the pics i now see that the dark part and silver part are parallel with each other and i believe that is your problem.