I made an appointment for Friday, December 5th, to get a Viper 5901 installed in my 07 TLS. I know I'll lose the the "Welcome Drive One" and seat and memory memory function. Is there anything else I will lose??

 

you dont have to lose it... if the guy knows what hes doing and u ask him to do it......itll just take longer......you wont lose anything else though.

 

Hey let me know how the alarm works. I am thinking of getting the 5901 as well. Although I would be installing it myself and it would be going into my 87 Legend instead of my 08 TLS

 

If he uses the CAN-SL2, you wont lose driver 1 memory --

I installed my own compustar 2wss-as (still one of the best r/s-alarm combo's ever made) and I used the CAN-SL2 as well as the HONDA-SL3 for bypass-override and have enjoyed warmth in the winter ever since and coooolness in the summer.

You'll need to also realize that while the car is running, you may NOT pop the trunk -- acura BECU (body-electronic control module) disables trunk popper while the vehicle is running -- if you want your installer to enable this feature WHILE the car is running, he'll have to run a trigger (-250mA) to the trunk popper BUTTON on the lower dash, and NOT use the trunk popper trigger on the CAN-SL2 data-bus unit.

my $0.02.

 

see dude im running into shit with my can sl2 and keybypass module the can sl2 is the best by far that ive installed in a long ass time but the key bypass is giving me hell for the remote strt to kick

 

Could you elaborate please with more details (and punctuation, lol!)

happy to help

 

i got the 791xv

lost the memory seat

great alarm but doesnt always remote start some times it will act like its about to start then doesnt then sometimes it will start right up

my friend has a CL-S with the 791 and his does it also i think it may be the type of bypass or the fact that i have a 6speed

maybe i need this honda-sl3 thing

 

The Can-SL2 is what preserves your seat memory --
where did you installer access the tachometer signal?
You may need to "re-learn" the tach signal

Are you using voltage sense or tach sensing?

 

6-speed shouldn't have anything to do with it

 

hmm i have no idea

BEST BUY installed it

 

Does this system allow you to just carry 1 remote for the remote start/ alarm/ keyless entry? Not carrying 2 seperate remotes...?

 

Im wanting to install a Python 881 with remote start, I don't want to lose any features like Welcome Driver 1, key fob features windows down, or the memory seats, what do I need to keep in mind?????????

 

Im trying to put an auto starter on my tl also, a friend of mine said he could hook one up with my factory remote and keep all regular factory alarm features, just that the auto start would only have the same distance signal it has now, so may not be able to start too far away, what do you guys think about that??

 

hey guys i gota manual 07 tls is there any remote starters for manuals

 

Hey PeterUbers, got a question for you. Using the Can-sl2 and the Honda-SL3. How many wires in total do I have to connect.

I am planning on hooking up either a viper 5901 or a compustar setup (still on the fence, I like the ability of the 5901 to be rechargable)

 

You'll have to figure this out -- otherwise, I'd take it back to best buy or another MECP profressional and have your tach "re-learned".

 

first of all, looking at the features and price (ebay) of the 5901, i'd go with the 5901 -- way too cool of a product from DEI (viper) a very very reputable and time testing company/product.

Um.. how many wires?

Let's see: the CAN-SL2 will require at least 5 wires to be connected to it (from viper brain to CAN-SL2, from can-sl2 to Acura data-bus wire), and the Honda-SL3 will need about 5 connections to the transponder box (at the steering column, with two OEM transponder wires requiring splitting) and GWR (-) wire to be connected to both CAN and SL3.

 

Compustar makes a manual version of their FM transmitter remote starters -- however, if you want to install it "illegally" you can always install an automatic version of any remote starter in a manual car -- the difference is that in stead of running the starter output wire to the starter wire at the steering column, you run it to the starter wire above the clutch ..

the problem is that if you leave your transmission in gear when you park it (stupid stupid thing to do anyway -- puts strain/stress on the transmission), you'll cause the vehicle to move (harming pedestrians) during remote starting.

 

Depends on what you want... range vs. retaining OEM keyfob

Yes, these are "add-on" remote starters that use two lock pulses or two unlock pulses to initate the remote start sequence --

Hey, here's the problem!! You have to be about within 20ft of the car to start it .. most FM transmitter based remote starters have at least a 1/4 mile distance (ideal distance/range) and some SS (spread spectrum) units have over a mile (ideal range). Also, you have pretty much no other features with the add on version.

 

Thats what I thought, I was doing research on the CAN-SL2 and Honda-SL3, and came to a I guess new product called the DUO-CAN-1 which has both CAN-SL2 and Honda-SL3 built into one unit. Anybody have experience with it? It is made by Fortin just as the CAN-SL2 is, but cannot locate a distributor with accurate information

 

yea but he duo can is both units run in parallel its a package deal i believe....they have a harness that connects both units to each other. I got the can SL2 and the keybypass....i think i have to reset the whole setup in the car....i never set it up the correct way after i put my new battery in unless it retains the info

 

Wow, this is pretty cool. I didnt know such a product existed. I have a Clifford 3.5 RSX already installed, with backup battery, glass breakage, auto window roll ups, however the few things that I dont have is the memory seats linked to the key fobs, and would love to turn on the defroster and heat in the winter, and one thing that I really wish I could do was auto close my sunroof just like my windows, but installers tells me that the circuity of our sunroofs doesnt allow for it... does anyone know if there is a product that can solve this? The DEI 529 doesn't but with this new CAN-SL2 having all those features I wonder if it can do this?

 

the can sl2's benefits are.....you dont have to tap into any wires in the car.....you connect the alarm to the can sl2 and then to the CAN B line in the car and done deal have a nice day for the mem seats you have to tap into the mem seat controller....which isnt a big deal raj. we can do that quick....the defroster is a channel line from the RSX that activates during autostart and I have the clifford 3.3 matrix and it lets u open and close the sunroof with the can sl2

 

CAN-SL2 has defroster 250mA (-) trigger input that I usually hook up to AUX1 or AUX2 on the r/s brain output to trigger defroster... works well... no extra relay or hunting for defroster wires under the kick panel...

 

yup true i totally forgot....some cars it offered some its not. it all depends on whats been figured out on the cars multiplex

 

Alright... George expect a phone call from me sometime this week!! I've w anted to get the sunroof shit taken care of for the longest time, but do you have access to a heated garage? So technically you dont even need the DEI 530T's you can pretty much roll up and down your windows with this one unit?

 

Just to clarify I'm trying to get sunroof and windows to close as soon as I hit the lock button on the clifford remote. Right now, it only does the windows, but the installer said they can't do the sunroof.

 

PeterUbers, Tripnbeats,

OK, I'm a bit confused...or maybe I understand this better than I think.
I have a 2004 Acura TL (Manual Transmission). I plan to purchase and install myself a Viper 5901, Clifford 50.7x, or Python 991 with the new CANMAX400DEI D2D plug in module. I also will purchase the XK loader to flash the correct firmware to the CANMAX.

CANMAX400DEI install manual: http://www.xpressdownload.com/getdoc...documentid=967

Viper 5901 install manual: http://www.directeddealers.com/manua...2008_08web.pdf

After reading both manuals, I'm still unclear on what wires from the RS/Alarm module still need to be connected if using D2D between the CANMAX and the Viper (or Clifford or Python).Here's what I think needs to be connected (in addition to the 4 wires from the CANMAX to the car):

H1/H2 12-v constant
H1/H3 Siren output
H1/H5 Chassis Ground
H2/H8 Horn Honk output (???)
any aux input that I want added (i.e. anti-jack/tilt)

What else? Is it that simple? What am I missing? What about tac input? Will the CANMAX get that from the bus and send it to the unit?

Next question:

What about programming? Both units need to be programmed, which do I do first?

Anything else that I'm missing?

Thanks!

 

12 VOLT CONSTANT WHITE (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS
STARTER BLACK/WHITE (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS

IGNITION 1 BLACK/YELLOW (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS

ACCESSORY/HEATER BLOWER 1 BLACK/RED (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS

ACCESSORY/HEATER BLOWER 2 WHITE/RED (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS

PARKING LIGHTS ( - ) RED/BLACK (-) @ HEADLIGHT SWITCH, UNDER STEERING COLUMN COVER

PARKING LIGHTS ( + ) RED/BLACK (+) @ LARGE WHITE PLUG ABOVE FUSEBOX

POWER LOCK PINK/BLACK (TYPE B) @ GREEN PLUG ON LEFT SIDE OF FUSEBOX

POWER UNLOCK PINK/BLUE (TYPE B) @ GREEN PLUG ON LEFT SIDE OF FUSEBOX


DOOR TRIGGER GREEN/RED (-) Requires #775 Relay @ GREEN 5-PIN PLUG BEHIND FUSEBOX


TRUNK RELEASE YELLOW/GREEN (+) Requires #775 Relay IN DRIVERS KICK PANEL, HARNESS to REAR of VEHICLE

HORN GREEN/YELLOW (-) @ STEERING COLUMN HARNESS

TACH Any wire NOT BLACK/WHITE or BLACK @ ANY IGNITION COIL

BRAKE WHITE/BLACK (+) @ SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL

FACTORY ALARM DISARM BLACK/RED to WHITE (-) @ DRIVERS DOOR MODULE IN DRIVERS DOOR



=============

The above is a wiring diagram for the 2004-2008 TL:

You'll need to make all the ignition and starter wire connections under the steering column. You'll need to use a voltmeter to test all these wires.

You'll then need to connect the accessory power wires.

The doorlocks, alarm defeat, defroster, trunk, door trigger, ... will all connect to the CAN-SL2.

The tachometer -- in my opinion -- is best obtained in the engine compartment at the ignition coil (there are six ignition coils, use the one on the left side of the engine, use heavy, heat resistant electrical tape to protect the connection once it's properly soldered). This means YOU WILL HAVE TO DRILL A HOLE FROM ENGINE SIDE TO PASSENGER COMPARTMENT in order to run the wire to the Viper r/s brain. You certiainly can just say "F" it and just use the tach output from the CAN-SL2 .. but i think this gives a crappy signal at times and causes your starter to OVERGRIND... not recommended.

Then you'll need to make all your connections b/w the transponder bypass (Honda-SL3, etc) and the transponder module at the top right of the steering column. There is a little wire harness that I disconnect usually that'll make accessing these wires much easier.

Your parking lights are accessed at the steering column as well -- one of the wire harnesses on the left i believe.

OH!! do not forget.

Make ALL YOUR STEERING COLUMN CONNECTIONS WITH THE STEERING COLUMN TELESCOPED AS FAR TOWARDS THE DRIVER AS POSSIBLE!!

I can't tell you how many times i've make these connections, then decided to move my steering wheel several days/weeks later toward me and popped a wire or harness! LOL... make sure there is slack, end of story and make sure nothing impinges on anything metallic/sharp if you were to adjust your steering wheel.

You'll also have to make the brake pedal switch connection -- this is a little challenging to access as you'll have to contort yourself to get to it -- but not impossible AT ALL... just takes time to access. Look for it at the brake pedal switch that's at the top of the brake pedal level arm.


Solder all your connections .. please PM or post with any other questions. happy to help

 

Can anyone answer my question(see 2 posts above) about wire connections required from the Viper to the car if using D2D connection between the canmaxdei400 and the viper5901? I have a wiring diagram. The manuals (see the links in my post above) are not very clear. The viper manual says "if using D2D with a bypass module, see the module manual to determine what additional wiring is required from the viper to the car". Well, if you read the canmax400dei manual, it doesn't help.

 

Bro... you still need to make all your ignition wire connections as in my last big post .. see wiring diagram:

you need to connect from the viper:
1) starter wire (to Acura starter wire)
2) accessory 1 and 2
3) ignition
4) brake... etc (see my post above)
5) parking lights
6) tachometer
7) horn

The D2D basically integrates the Viper brain and the CAN brain such that you don't need to connect GWR(-), doorlocks, trunk, etc.. to the CAN .. the D2D sends these signals from the viper brain to the CAN brain and initiates the CAN processing.

The fundamental ignition harness connections are still required!
The fundamental brake connection and tach connection is require (unless using the tach signal from the CAN brain)

Also: install in this order:

1) install r/s brain and all the requisite ignition hookups.. then place the OEM key in the ignition barrel (do not turn) and remote start the vehicle (after tach learning) to make sure your r/s works

2) Install and program the CAN and then test all the functions (doorlocks, trunk, defrost, r/s without key in ignition barrel).

Lemme know if this answered your questions

 

I'm looking for the Viper 5901 in the Maryland area and Best Buy still does not stock this product yet. Does anyone know where I can get this installed in the Rockville, Maryland area for the MDX? Thanks!

 

According to the Viper website, there is a store in Silver Spring at:
Audio Explosion
8968 Brookville Road
Silver Spring, MD 20910
(301) 495-0964

 

wow you can set deforst with this alarm? what else can you do with this alarm? can someone list all of the important features?

 

you can set the defrost with ANY alarm (as I can with my auxilliary output button) .. the defroster is something you can hardwire into any car.. or do more easily with the CAN-SL2.

 

is it possible to turn on the heater with the alarm?

 

don't know, but why would you need this in a TL? Unless you manually turned the climate control off before you shut the engine off, the heater will come on automatically and maintain whatever temp you had set.

 

New member, been trolling, figured i'd join.

GF bought an '08 TL in April. I'm installing a car starter for her birthday. Don't worry, I've been around this block before. And no, I wasn't an installer at Best Buy.

The plan: Ditch the OEM switchblades, use standalone keys with new 2-way remotes.

Purchased: DEI DBALL, to flash with USB XKLoader (401.HONDA4 2.08
vH00.S00.D06 firmware); Viper 5701 (I like the remotes better than the 5901, 2000ft is plenty), transponder only keys from eBay, and a Viper 5701.

Questions: Can I program the keys myself? I saw a post here about programming fobs, but it seems that programming the key needs to be done at the dealership. A local guy can cut them for $25 each but can't program. The dealership wants $60 to cut and code.

Also: I'd like to retain the driver1 and driver 2 functionality. Any idea if the DBALL can pass the driver 1 and driver 2 info from the Viper brain to the Acura? It's CAN so I was hoping that would be there. Maybe down the road DEI comes out with a new firmware I could flash. That would be pissa.

 

I'm going to be installing the Viper 5902 soon with the DBALL module. I'm confused about the tach and brake connections and whether they're actually required or not. Do I need to wire the Viper to the brake if using the DBALL in D2D? I thought I read somewhere that it was able to detect that. Also, is the DBALL able to detect the Tach signal from D2D as well?

 

If you connect the module the way it asks for then the alarm shouldn't need connections to the tach or brake wires. It will get all the signals from the module through the d2d connection. Btw just fyi, you need to get a computer connector for that module because it comes empty you need to load the HONDA4 v2.15 firmware on it from the xpresskit website i believe. and good luck