Viper 5706 Remote Start Tach Wire

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Old 04-13-2015, 07:23 PM
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Viper 5706 Remote Start Tach Wire

Having a pretty big issue with my recently installed remote start. I had it installed around Christmas time and found that under cold circumstances, I'm talking like under -10 degrees Celsius, the car fails to fire up. The remote starter will crank and crank, try three times, and then fail. OR more recently (in the cold), just crank and give a really bad overgrinding noise that won't stop. BUT, if I go out and manually crank the car myself, absolutely no issues. When it's warm, the car starts fine but I still hear hints of overgrinding. At the moment, we've been tapping into the ignition coil for a signal. I've come to the conclusion it's an improper tach wire and the problem is I'm not sure where you would get or tap into for this. I've been looking all over Acurazine and here's what I've found so far:

One thread tells me that the CMP (Camshaft Position Sensor) should be enough and that it worked for the OP of that thread.

Originally Posted by gt1
While CMP sensor (Yellow wire off ECU connector D7) didn't work for me, there is a good chance that it will work for your application, because you don't need a precise measurement.
thread: https://acurazine.com/forums/audio-b...2/#post8522525

Then I look at this thread that alludes to a Brown/White wire.

Originally Posted by Fulani has a TL
Just to give info on this problem I was having.

Got it to tach learn, the wire you want is Brown/White (brown with white stripe) its on the ICM closest to the Battery, and its the wire thats closest to the battery
thread: https://acurazine.com/forums/audio-b.../#post10729218

Then I find a thread that tells me these are the definitive tach wires.

Originally Posted by nfnsquared
Answered in your other thread:

On the 2004 TL, the tach wires come into connector E (white) at terminals E15-E20.

E15-BRN/WHT
E16-BLK/RED
E17-BRN
E18-WHT/BLU
E19-BLU/RED
E20-YEL/GRN



Don't need it, controlled through canbus (assuming you are still using door-lock interface unit, e.g. an XK01 or similar). All the items it controls are listed in the manual for the unit. Also, read the third paragraph of the very first post in this thread again.
thread: https://acurazine.com/forums/audio-b.../#post12413009

All in all, I'm not quite sure which one of those wires I should try to help alleviate what's happening in the cold. Maybe one of you have a little more insight? It'd be greatly appreciated, because what's the point of a remote starter if it doesn't start in the cold.
Old 04-14-2015, 10:57 PM
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Did your installer do the "tach learn" procedure?

Connecting to the tach wires going into the ECU is easier because you don't have to go through the firewall. You can use any of those 6 wires.
Old 04-16-2015, 10:49 PM
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What security interface/ bypass module are you using? The tach signal should be able to be generated by the module via the databus in the car.
Old 04-16-2015, 11:45 PM
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Here's what I found somewhere else:

brown, red, blue, yellow, black/red, or white/blue at
any fuel injector, black 2 pin plug, pin 2

For my TL, I ended up using a DBALL module.
Old 05-02-2015, 04:19 PM
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Sorry for the late reply on this, it hasn't been much of an issue now with the warm weather.

Originally Posted by nfnsquared
Did your installer do the "tach learn" procedure?

Connecting to the tach wires going into the ECU is easier because you don't have to go through the firewall. You can use any of those 6 wires.
As far as I know, my installer did. If he didn't would the remote start still work?

Originally Posted by DiamondJoeQuimby
What security interface/ bypass module are you using? The tach signal should be able to be generated by the module via the databus in the car.
Either the SL2 or SL3, I remember the installer trying a newer module and then swapping over to an older one since the newer one didn't work.

Originally Posted by lhoo
Here's what I found somewhere else:

brown, red, blue, yellow, black/red, or white/blue at
any fuel injector, black 2 pin plug, pin 2

For my TL, I ended up using a DBALL module.
I read that the signal off some modules aren't good enough sometimes, I'm assuming you found that wasn't the case?
Old 05-03-2015, 02:09 AM
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My remote start works 100% of the time with the DBALL.

If your problem is temperature dependent, then it could just be a bad connection somewhere.
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