Viper 5706 Remote Start Tach Wire
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Viper 5706 Remote Start Tach Wire
Having a pretty big issue with my recently installed remote start. I had it installed around Christmas time and found that under cold circumstances, I'm talking like under -10 degrees Celsius, the car fails to fire up. The remote starter will crank and crank, try three times, and then fail. OR more recently (in the cold), just crank and give a really bad overgrinding noise that won't stop. BUT, if I go out and manually crank the car myself, absolutely no issues. When it's warm, the car starts fine but I still hear hints of overgrinding. At the moment, we've been tapping into the ignition coil for a signal. I've come to the conclusion it's an improper tach wire and the problem is I'm not sure where you would get or tap into for this. I've been looking all over Acurazine and here's what I've found so far:
One thread tells me that the CMP (Camshaft Position Sensor) should be enough and that it worked for the OP of that thread.
thread: https://acurazine.com/forums/audio-b...2/#post8522525
Then I look at this thread that alludes to a Brown/White wire.
thread: https://acurazine.com/forums/audio-b.../#post10729218
Then I find a thread that tells me these are the definitive tach wires.
thread: https://acurazine.com/forums/audio-b.../#post12413009
All in all, I'm not quite sure which one of those wires I should try to help alleviate what's happening in the cold. Maybe one of you have a little more insight? It'd be greatly appreciated, because what's the point of a remote starter if it doesn't start in the cold.
One thread tells me that the CMP (Camshaft Position Sensor) should be enough and that it worked for the OP of that thread.
Then I look at this thread that alludes to a Brown/White wire.
Then I find a thread that tells me these are the definitive tach wires.
Answered in your other thread:
On the 2004 TL, the tach wires come into connector E (white) at terminals E15-E20.
E15-BRN/WHT
E16-BLK/RED
E17-BRN
E18-WHT/BLU
E19-BLU/RED
E20-YEL/GRN
Don't need it, controlled through canbus (assuming you are still using door-lock interface unit, e.g. an XK01 or similar). All the items it controls are listed in the manual for the unit. Also, read the third paragraph of the very first post in this thread again.
On the 2004 TL, the tach wires come into connector E (white) at terminals E15-E20.
E15-BRN/WHT
E16-BLK/RED
E17-BRN
E18-WHT/BLU
E19-BLU/RED
E20-YEL/GRN
Don't need it, controlled through canbus (assuming you are still using door-lock interface unit, e.g. an XK01 or similar). All the items it controls are listed in the manual for the unit. Also, read the third paragraph of the very first post in this thread again.
All in all, I'm not quite sure which one of those wires I should try to help alleviate what's happening in the cold. Maybe one of you have a little more insight? It'd be greatly appreciated, because what's the point of a remote starter if it doesn't start in the cold.
#2
Race Director
Did your installer do the "tach learn" procedure?
Connecting to the tach wires going into the ECU is easier because you don't have to go through the firewall. You can use any of those 6 wires.
Connecting to the tach wires going into the ECU is easier because you don't have to go through the firewall. You can use any of those 6 wires.
#4
Here's what I found somewhere else:
brown, red, blue, yellow, black/red, or white/blue at
any fuel injector, black 2 pin plug, pin 2
For my TL, I ended up using a DBALL module.
brown, red, blue, yellow, black/red, or white/blue at
any fuel injector, black 2 pin plug, pin 2
For my TL, I ended up using a DBALL module.
#5
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Sorry for the late reply on this, it hasn't been much of an issue now with the warm weather.
As far as I know, my installer did. If he didn't would the remote start still work?
Either the SL2 or SL3, I remember the installer trying a newer module and then swapping over to an older one since the newer one didn't work.
I read that the signal off some modules aren't good enough sometimes, I'm assuming you found that wasn't the case?
I read that the signal off some modules aren't good enough sometimes, I'm assuming you found that wasn't the case?
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