I am eyeballing these speakers for my Tl. Wondering if anyone has tried them in our cars. I am thinking they may be sensitive enough to run off stock amp.

What do you think?

 

Our stock amp outputs the little amount that it does at 2ohms I believe. Those are 4ohm speakers. So divide what little RMS is already there from the stock amp by 2 and now you're even lower. You're best best is to just bypass the stock amp

 

Oh that's right. What about the Boston Acoustic S60? They are 2 ohm I believe and high sensitivity... anyone?

 

Stock speakers are usually more efficient than aftermarket. Couple that with the different resistance and there's a very good chance you will lose SPL from this swap. When I did 2-ohm somewhat efficient Infinities with the stock amp I might have broken even in SPL.

Amps are cheap these days. You can get better highs by going with aftermarket speakers but you will never have a lot of midbass or dynamics while they're on the stock amp. An amp on the stock speakers can make as big of a difference as aftermarket speakers on the stock amp.

 

I would be happy with breaking even on spl. I dont need tonnes of volume. I normally listen at around 22-23 on the volume control so that is not an issue. I am not sure what you mean by dynamics. Dynamics to my understanding is determined ny the source material, not the power to the speakers.

 

Having dynamics in your system is being able to locate instruments on stage, having a nice stage, width, etc. It can be determined by the source material, but a good install with plenty of power and quality components will be a HUGE jump from just Ipod to DVD-A.

By putting in $200-300 components and running them on 40watts isn't going to really make the music come alive for you. The efficiency would have to be like none ever seen to make that happen. But add clean power to those speakers and they will be able to reproduce material cleaner, louder, etc.

 

Dynamics are in the material but the vast majority of even the aftermarket systems out there can't play it correctly. To hear the softest note to the loudest note on a CD requires a ton of power. You can have a system that sounds loud that won't be dynamic. Quite honestly, I would never run less than 150w to my midrange and midbass. Mine got plenty loud on 75w but at 150w it sounds so much better and realistic.

 

Perhaps the speakers you chose require lots of power to sound good? If I could find speakers that did not require lots of power, say 30 watts then I'd be set. My home theatre systems don't even have 150 watts/channel. In my car, my ears are literally 2 feet away from the speakers so I find it hard to believe 30 watts of power is not enough.

Now I am thinking of just sound deadening things rather than change speakers. It sounds good with just the added sub in the trunk, and dynamic (I sprinkled some dynamic powder on the oem speakers).

 

Ok. Have fun with it.

 

You can sound deaden the hell outta your car but the environment will usually never equal that of a home

 

I think you're wasting your time... But I've learned a lot. My 89db efficient audiophile speakers require a lot of power to sound good. Apparently the acoustics of a small glass and plastic cube are the same as a home so power requirements are the same as well. Dynamics are in the source material and it only requires 30w to faithfully reproduce the whole dynamic range. Stock speakers on the stock amp are dynamic.

 

Stock Systems >> Aftermarket

?? lol

 

Yes, it's all true.

 

I hate cars.... you forgot the leather and fake wood.

Of course the acoustics are different. They are different in any two rooms/spaces. What do you have, 1500Watts of audio power pointed at your head from 2 feet away? Sounds a bit insane, but cool at the same time.

I question everything, especially anything online so if I seem difficult I apologize for that.

Thanks for your help.

 

150/ch available, probably using 20-30rms for normal listening. Having the headroom give you the dynamics I've been mentioning; the dynamic peaks that can require2-3x the power to properly produce. I don't listen to this setup any louder than I did when I had only 75 available but adding the power helps the system come alive even at normal volumes.

The two 15s are there to keep distortion at a minimum, I don't use a tenth of their potential output most of the time but having all of that cone area keeps excursion to a minimum and distortion down. It's kind of the same with power, run more than you will ever need and you'll never have to worry about distortion.

 

I bet your system sounds amazing but I can only imagine (or try to). I just have a single 10" in a ported box added to my stock system and to me it is pretty sweet sounding.

I have noticed a dip in response when playing a sine sweep file (as well as some peaks but those are fine).... not sure the frequency but i will try some burst files later to locate. I believe it was somewhere around 300Hz. If I could eliminate that dip I would be in audio heaven with my TL.

 

After having had some time to digest information and your responses I would like to pose a question. Considering the ohm difference between my stock speakers and the unitys, if i left everything powered by the stock amp except the front components how much power should i look for to bring their level back to the rest of the system, 60 watts?

 

go listen to them. That is the only way to get a feel. As far as power, in almost all cases more is better. Stock location is what it is. It will end up a little side biased, decent height, confused center, and adequate width.

 

I wish i could listen to them but nowhere around here or within 500 kilometres will have them. I am becoming more happy with stock system as i fine tune my sub. See how long that lasts now.

 

I would never spend 3 bills + on speakers without hearing them. It's like buying a painting that you have never seen.