Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

I mean I'd like SQ but I still want to get loud and low when I need to. I listen to rock, rap, electronic, country, etc. I figured the 1500 was too much for the JL but I just copied that from another page b/c I'm lazy haha. Anyways, do you honestly think the difference in sound quality at 1 ohm will be that drastic from that Memphis pr1.1000 to an MB Quart Onyx 1000.1, Audiopipe, etc?? I'm impatient and want to hear my stuff now but if you guys think there's much better amps that will sound better for only $25-$30 more then I'll do that. I've gotta drive like 40mins away to check it out anyways so that's like $20 in gas haha. I'm supposed to meet the guy in about an hour...what should I do? Here's the posting for the Memphis

http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/for/2278001795.html


Guy stated that he just bought it about 3 months ago from a shop close by to him (Rave Sound) and he had bigger fans installed in it. It ran his Memphis MOJO sub @ 1ohm.


Here's a website I see a few people looking for the same type stuff being referred to on caraudio.com. That audiopipe a1000d can be had for $150 brand new and I hear they are solid amps that do rated. Not sure how they are with THD rise, etc though. Might just be SPL-type amps

jda123

Cheap amps with fans usually = fail.

I would buy the Onyx over the Memphis if it did not have fans.

You don't have to sacrifice sound for output or playing low. Get that out of your head.

There is a Solid Audio F15D on ca.com that probably would do 1000w at 4 ohms. Dude was asking 225 shipped, but might move some. It is probably close to 2K at 1 ohm and is probably capable of .5 or less. It would sound good, stay cool and last at 4 ohms. This is a great example of a budget amp, IMO.

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

Well I picked it up today. I guess I heard him wrong because he said something about a fan and I thought he said it had a fan put in. He said he was talking to his girlfriend haha. But he did indeed buy it from a shop near him and they sell it for $399. Only had it for 3 months but he's going through divorce so he needed money. Ended up picking it up for $100!. A straight trade off when I find a buyer for my Kicker 400.1, so I think I did pretty well for a "budget". If I don't like it or want to change it up, I can easily make my money back on it no problem. Amp feels solid, in great condition and sounds pretty powerful at under 1/2 gain.

So now on to components and a small 2 or 4 channel amp. So what components should I pick up?? I need to figure out what kind of deadener to use/get because I've got a ton of rattles now.



Also, should I keep these w6's in the sealed box or put them into my 3cuft ported box?

jda123

Try them out in the box that they are in.

eggyhustles

Contact biggs for a 4th order design

As far as the amp goes, save up a little more change and get something from sundown.

sundown 1000d for the subs and a 125.2 for some 2 ohm comps would be lovely.

phampau

Hybrid Audio is having a 20% off sale until the end of the month if your interested in trying out their speakers.

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

So I've found out that a local retailer has the Hertz ESK, HSK, MLK in stock and set up to listen. I'm going to go by there on Friday and have a listen. In the mean time...I have a few questions if anyone can help me.

1. There is a RF p1000.1 local to me for $200. He says everything works fine, etc. Would this be a better option for me than the Memphis pr1.1000 or should I hang on to the Memphis and keep on the look out for a powerful 4ohm amp?

2. Like Phampau stated, HAT is having a 20% off sale from the 6th-30th. I guess they are celebrating their 5th win for best front-soundstage SQ car in North America or something. Anyways, I can pick up the HAT Imagine $175/free shipping. I won't order until I listen to the Hertz but for that price, that's hard to not look into with all the positive responses!

3. There is a JL e4300 4-channel amp local to me for $80. Would this be a good deal for 150x2 (bridged) @ 4ohms?

Specs:
• Class AB 4-Channel Amplifier
• Absolute Symmetry Class AB Circuit
• Differential, Noise Cancelling Input Topology: RCA jack inputs(low-level) and multi-pin jack(high-level)
• On-board crossover: State-variable, 12dB/octave Butterworth with continuously variable cutoff frequency selection from 50-200 Hz. Configurable as Low-Pass or High-Pass
• Preamp Output: Pass-through type
• CEA-2006 Compliant
• RMS Power Rating (14.4V):
◦ 4 ohms: 70 watts x 4 chan.
◦ 2 ohms: 110 watts x 4 chan.
◦ Bridged (4 ohms): 220 watts x 2 chan.
◦ Bridged (8 ohms): 140 watts x 2 chan.
• RMS Power Rating (12.5V):
◦ 4 ohms: 45 watts x 4 chan.
◦ 2 ohms: 75 watts x 4 chan.
◦ Bridged (4 ohms): 150 watts x 2 chan.
◦ Bridged (8 ohms): 90 watts x 2 chan.
•Frequency Response: 10 - 25kHz
•Damping Factor: >200 @ 4 Ohms / 50Hz, >100 at 2 Ohms/50Hz
•S/N Ratio: >104 dB referred to rated power(A-weighted, 20Hz-20kHz noise bandwidth)
•Input Range: 200mV - 8V RMS
•Bass EQ: +6dB Fixed Frequency, Fixed 'Q' with port for optional remote bass control
•Slew Rate: +- 22V/us


4. What would be the best point for the low pass & bass EQ on the amp? I know how to set the gain but I'm unsure about where to set a x-over.

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...-PR1.1000.html


5. Has anyone tried different placements for their sub box in the trunk? I'm wondering if it sounds best up close to the seats with the sub(s) facing towards the cabin or trunk, in the middle, near the trunk, etc.

adsoldschool

5. Has anyone tried different placements for their sub box in the trunk? I'm wondering if it sounds best up close to the seats with the sub(s) facing towards the cabin or trunk, in the middle, near the trunk, etc.[/quote]

I've got (2) 12" RF Punch in a sealed box. It's up against the back seat and firing UP thru the rear deck, factory sub is removed and stock speakers are replaced with some JL 5 1/4 coaxs. The subs are underpowered by a Soundstream -Class A 100 at 80w/sub right now so I'm looking to upgrade that power (any input appreciated, looking for 200-300w/ch and not break the bank), but it does give me the type of sound I'm looking for. It's a recent install so I'm still playing with it. I've got the trunk and rearlid matted out so its nice and tight. I get a good whack in the back without the boom. I've done rear-firing and spare-tire well mountings in the past and this current set-up gives me what I'm looking for. My system is being run thru a 3sixty and my front set up is A/D/S 1" tweeters from their AL5 set and their 6S midbass in the doors. Doors are matted as well. The 6's go friggin deep, going to tweak the 3Sixty to up the cut-off a little higher I think. Getting 100w/ch thru an A/D/S PH15 then the remaining 50w/ch to the rears. Center is a Clarion(to be replaced soon) 3.5 coax getting about 40 watts from a Monolithic brand amp. I know A/D/S and Monolithinc aren't around anymore...like my name says, I'm "old school"..but damn those A/D/S sound great.

jda123

In your sealed box, putting it all the way to the rear and pointing it forward is what I would do. Pointing them down is awesome in a hatch or SUV, but I don't like it in a trunk... some might though. Pointing them forward is better than having the box block all of the sound if you point them backwards.

The e4300 is a cheaper amp, but it will get the job done. It is a very good cheap amp IMO. If you ever get to where you are processing and not using the component crossovers, then you will need to upgrade... but that is a different project for a different day along with probably better comps.

The p1000.1 is better than the Memphis that you have. It is probably 20% underrated and cleaner at 1 ohms. It is a mid-grade Fosgate, compared to a low level Memphis. That being said, you are gonna need to decide if it is worth it to you. If it was a T1000.1, then I would jump all over it - the RF Power series amps (starts with T) are very nice for driving subs... clean, cool and powerful.

If you are using the sub channel to feed your amp, then it is already crossed about about 80-90 hz. You might as well stick with that. To control it more yourself, you would need to tap into the pre-amp signal. Anywhere from 70-100 is fine depending on your setup and preferences. If you are going to do it, I would start at 80 and go from there.

Listen to the ESK. If you like them, then pull the trigger. I think that it is hard to get advice from reviews or on the net about products - seems like 50% of the people shouldn't be reviewing, 25% of the people have a vested interest, 10% are good but lack they dynamic to apply their knowledge to your specific situation and 15% are probably quality. Near 100% mean well. That being said, I would heed the review from eggy about the HAT more than others, if you feel him trustworthy. I have never heard them myself, so I offer no opinion.

How did one sub on your 400 sound?

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

Good post! I might have to see what else is around here as far as 2/4 channel amps, and possibly pick up that JL, especially for that price.

I didn't realize RF had different lines of amps. I might hold off on that then and just do what I had planned. I was planning on putting the Memphis pr1.1000 on craigslist to see what kind of bites I can get. It's a powerful amp without a doubt and I should be able to make my money back + more. Selling stuff on craigslist is all about how your posts are structured and how helpful they are to buyer...I sell stuff all the time on there for more than its worth. Some kid looking for a 1000x1 @ 1ohm for $225 will probably jump on this b/c he'll see the prices at Best Buy, etc. Then I'll get a Sundown or go with the A/B (4ohm) route like Eggy suggested to get the best SQ.

I'll be able to listen to those components on Thursday now so I'll chime in and give my review. I believe they are asking $240 in the shop but I might be able to swing a deal if I can get them to install those, and lay a few layers of deadener down.

Quote:

Originally Posted by jda123

In your sealed box, putting it all the way to the rear and pointing it forward is what I would do. Pointing them down is awesome in a hatch or SUV, but I don't like it in a trunk... some might though. Pointing them forward is better than having the box block all of the sound if you point them backwards.

The e4300 is a cheaper amp, but it will get the job done. It is a very good cheap amp IMO. If you ever get to where you are processing and not using the component crossovers, then you will need to upgrade... but that is a different project for a different day along with probably better comps.

eggyhustles

Pick up the rockford and the jl

As far as hybrid goes, i don't like their stuff. I haven't heard the imagine comp set, but i had the Legatia 8's, mids, and tweets...and they were pretty boring. Tweets were too laid back, midrange was cool, midbass was..well, there wasn't any

Then again, i don't use and will never use conventional car audio speakers again..

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

The Hertz ESK's sounded decent. I listened to them in the shops wall and the guy that worked there had them in his car, so I listened in his car. I found they were too bright but were almost to that border for me. I'm not sure if it was his controls, and I know he didn't have any deadener in his doors (b/c I asked), but the midbass was not there at all. I have kind of thrown that audition out b/c deadening the doors will supposedly wake the midbass up a ton. I did get to listen to the HSK and Mille...and those sounded very nice! Smooth!!


On another note...selling the Memphis amp tomorrow for $200 haha. Selling my Kicker 400.1 today for $125. If I can get the guy to contact me back about the Rockford t1000.1 then I'll have a look at that. If not, I'll go with an Audioque, Sundown, etc in the $200ish range. Still on the lookout for a component amp. Might go have a look at that JL.


As far as components, do you all think buying used or new on a car audio classified board is safe enough? I realize if they have good rep it's ok, etc...but I don't have the money to buy a damaged product or not get one at all. There is a guy selling Massive RK6's for like $200 on CarAudio. The midbass looks insane on those! Small sub almost.

eggyhustles

As long as you get something from a reputable seller, you'll be fine. The massive stuff is good, so if u can afford it, get it.

Here are some nice amps for decent prices

http://cgi.ebay.com/US-Acoustics-USX...item2a083305e0

monster power + zed audio built and designed so sq will be top notch

same goes for this one
http://cgi.ebay.com/Lanzar-Optidrive...item2562a9e085

They're some others but they are 200+

eggyhustles

Some More
http://cgi.ebay.com/Precision-Power-...item3366853162

http://cgi.ebay.com/PPI-Art-Series-A...item336695d539

http://cgi.ebay.com/OLD-SCHOOL-ALPIN...item1c1a9815c9

http://cgi.ebay.com/OLD-SCHOOL-ALPIN...item2c5ba7c1f2

http://cgi.ebay.com/OLD-SCHOOL-ROCKF...item1c1ab45a49

http://cgi.ebay.com/Rare-old-school-...item3365c83608

xxx_busa

Checkout DAT on DIMYA he has plenty Massive amps onsale right now, His name is David he's in KY

xxx_busa

the link

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...-speakers.html

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

That first amp is rated at 300rms x 2 @ 4ohms. I mean is that plenty of power for the 12w6's or would they take more? I understand, or you've said, that the THD will be noticeably lower at 4ohms and will sound much better...but do the subs need less power at higher ohm rating?? I just want to make sure they will have enough umph when I need them to. ....you know what I mean eggy....sql lol


There's a set of Massive RK6 on ebay for $200 right now too (new). I've heard you can find the Hertz HSK's for around $230-260 new if you look around the classifieds on DIYMA, CarAudio, etc. Good news though!! Just found out there's a dealer for Massive about 20 minutes from me. Guys real nice, on the phone at least, and said he just put the RK6's up to listen about 4 days ago. The size of those RK6's are just insane though haha. Which brings me to my questions....like always....haha


1. Mounting depth for our TL's?

2. MDF baffle will most likely be needed with any of these beefier components so any choice, good places you guys like?

3. Are the Hertz tweeters considered bright or warm usually? What about Massive? The ESK tweeter didn't bother me to much at all. Nice and crisp, not too bright I didn't think. I could have sworn you recommended the Massive's somewhere Eggy, just wondering your take. Can't wait to go hear em

eggyhustles

Those amps i listed were for comps only, not subs

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

Haha k. They were either low Sub amps or sone beastly component amps. Another question....when you go with a sealed box, do you want to go right at JL's specs? little larger or smaller? I think this box is slightly too small and it seems poorly built. It's got a lot of movement during low notes. I can see the mdf flexing!! I do know that the front face of the box is 1" mdf...not sure about the rest as it's carpeted.

jda123

A little bit bigger is never bad for JL stuff. Polyfill will help the effective area too. Are you happy with the output of the current box enough to stay sealed?

I have bought about a half dozen items from ca and diyma over the last few years and always had a great experience. The buy/sell is the best part of the boards.

Hertz fakes are everywhere, be careful. There are ways to bolster the midbass if you end up needing more punch (assuming 4 channel amp)... run the tweets off of the high pass of the front amp channels and run the midbass off of the set xovers off the rear channel and turn the gain up a bit. Basically, a brokeass processor, but it has worked for a lot of years on a lot of good sounding systems before processors were on the scene. Keep in mind that you are buying a set of 200-300 comps and not a set of Thesis...

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

I was able to go audition the Massive RK6, Massive CK6, Diamond D6 and some Morels. All were run off Kenwood DDX418, Diamond 300.2 (100rms @ 4ohm, 150rms @ 2ohms). They were in an angled soundboard (aimed at ear level). I listened to each one with Sublime- Santeria



Massive RK6
These sounded the best to me. The midbass was surpisingly punchy but could hit the lower notes with authority. I guess that's what a HUGE magnet on a 6.5" component driver will do!! The tweeter was smooth, not too harsh but still retained detail. The imaging and soundstage seemed much wider with these than the other brand components. I know DD and Diamond dont make the best components but the Morels gave me about the same soundstage as these RK6's. The crossover is MUCH smaller than the Diamond x-over, and is quite a bit smaller than some others I've seen.

Massive CK6
These sounded pretty good also but they sounded a tad brighter than the RK6. I'm not sure if they used the same tweeter or what changed in the x-over but they sounded like they were a bit more detailed, but also brighter. Midbass was still pretty good but nothing like the RK6.

Morel
I'm not sure exactly which line I listened to but I listend to 2 different sets. I'm still trying to find out which one's they were so hopefully I can update so this review isn't so vague. Anways, these seemed very recessed and lacking a little detail. The shop owner had a live song he played, and it had the crowd cheering in certain parts in the very far background. You could barely hear it with one of these sets and the other was non-existent. I could hear the detail in the RK6 and D6's the best when I really paid attention to small details...guitar picks, background crowds, etc. Midbass on these was just ok, but these were pretty much flat and nuetral sounding throughout my full listening time. This is usually the sound I like as my home audio stuff is very flat and nuetral (Energy RC-70's, RC LCR, RC-10's, PA-120). They were slowly starting to grow on me as I listened and I would definitely take the sound the reproduced over the D6's, not the RK6 though.

Diamond D6
First thing that struck me with these is that the midbass was decently punchey but the tweeter seemed to overpower the mids. Tweet was a little bright, decent amount of detail though. Struck me as the most harsh of all, and sounded a little like Infinity's personally. The imaging on these were weird because you could tell a very noticeable difference when not standing directly in front of them. Not horrible sounding, but just not on par with Massive or Morel.

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

Just picked up the RK6's brand new on another forum for $180 shipped! Can't wait to get these bad boys

eggyhustles

Good choice

The usx amp would be a nice match for it

eggyhustles

disregard that

Just noticed it only has a low pass.

Would work well for the subs if you wired them up to 4 ohms, though

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

You looking for a 4-channel to run active for these? I'm not sure on exactly what active means but I believe its just running a 4 channel to each mid and each tweet.. without the crossover maybe? I guess the advantage is that it gives you more EQ ability b/c you can use the amp and not just whatever is used in the x-over.

There's a PPI 500.2 for $100 near me now. Any good? Or would that jl work better? I'll look at that usx again for the 4ohm sub configuration. I would like to put plenty of power to them if I ran them at 4ohms.

eggyhustles

Yes, that's what active means.

You don't need to give the sub gobs of power for them to perform. Enclosure is key.

I hate cars

That's the truth. I would have thought you were crazy for saying that before I got my first nice set of comps. IMO, the sub stage is easier to get right than the rest.

The single W6 IB went from barely adequate to more than enough because instead of wanting the bass to overpower the fronts I have it balanced nicely with a little extra bass.

Jason gave me permission to post the bandpass specs late last year, I just can't find them but I'll continue looking. It's 1.29 sealed, 1.8 ported and 5x8x8??? port I think. I'm pretty sure on the box size but not sure on the port.

You may decide on the type of enclosure you're going with before making the final decision on the sub amp. If you do IB with the 12W6s, 150 watts per sub is overkill. Bandpass will require a little less than ported and sealed will require the most. I think this particular bandpass is up 8-9db over a sealed so it's very efficient. A JL 900/5 would power everything. It's expensive but you're only running one amp. In the future, I'm ditching my current sub amp and getting a 900/5 to power a couple additional channels. Not sure if it would push those subs in a sealed enclosure that well but it would be fine for the bandpass or IB. I plan on pushing the 15s with it.

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

Local sale:

Alpine PDX 1000.1 & Alpine PDX 100.4 fo $400. Yay or nay? Already talkin with eggy about it but I figure some others might have also used these and can chime in

I hate cars

II hate to even say this because I have no first hand experience but there have been many reports of noise issues with the PDX amps.

eggyhustles

Told him the same.

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, that's what Eggy was telling me. From my research it seems some people can hear it and some can't. Some are audiophiles and can't heard, some are normal people and can hear it easily. If I had an unlimited or higher budget then I wouldn't worry about them but I'd like to keep this whole thing under 1G. I'll go check them out and listen to them for the noise floor. If they hiss or make a loud noise then I'll know they aren't good. If he doesn't let me hook them up...obvious they might be noisy.

If these will be mounted in the trunk then wouldn't that noise floor be kinda pointless. I hear its only audible barely when there is no music playing....and that doesn't happen in my car haha.

05TLbase

I got 3 PDXs just switched them to 07 tl from 05 and had to tune everything again. Only time theres a noise problem is when gains are maxed out. Tuning my 360.2 outputs did nothing for the static. But then again, if gains are all the way up I could blow something sense the birth certificates with the amps were all at least 50 watts above advertisement. I would def buy them.

Im using a pdx1.600 for my sub and its everything I need and more. I cant imagine what a 1000 would do. Dont blow anything.

On some other notes custom grills for the tweets are a must. Im not using any right now and its a huge difference because the stock grills really only have about a 1" opening the rest is solid. I installed components in the rear this time, not enough room to mount like a 2 way so i put the tweeters in the stock sub hole and angled them to bounce off the back windshield and essentially into place. AMAZING! (BA PRO60 SE's btw)

05TLbase

read that a second time... i think they mean speaker noise... mine are silent

BlueAc

iTrader: (2)

I ran PDX's for 3 years and the only noise I heard was a slight hiss at 0. I only noticed that when I was on the phone. I was also using a 3Sixty.2 so that could have been the culprit as well. For $400 I say go for it.

I hate cars

I would still be worried about using them in an sq install. After I was told about the problem I started searching and found tons of threads with noise complaints from them. Some were fine and others were noisy. Seems to be luck as to whether or not you get a good one.

cjj2d

I have 2 PPI PC 2150's for sale.

great amps.

2 x 150 @ 4ohms
2 x 300 @ 2 ohms
1 x 600 @ 4ohms.

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the info guys. It just seems like the luck of the draw with these amps. When the guy gets back with me, and I go have a look/listen, I'll make sure to hook the 1.1000 up. I guess I'll be buying the 100.4 blind b/c I don't have a way to hook it up. Still searching other forums for good buys because you never know.

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

What all do I need to hook up 2 amps? Just making a list so I can order/get all the stuff I need instead of buying it locally for 5x the price. When I went to look at the Hertz ESK's the guy quoted me like $60 for speaker install, $60 amp install, $25 for RCA cable...way too much so I'll just do it myself. Don't have much time, or a garage being a student, so I'll have to do it on the weekend at my parents house.


I'll soon order:

-Sound deadener
-MDF 6.5" baffles for components (likely 1" thick as the RK6's are thick..hopefully they'll fit under the factory panel)


It's been awhile so I forget what all I need to do 2 amps. I've already got 1 amp installed (4ga. amp kit). Can't wait to get this all and install it. I'll make sure to take plenty of pics too

eggyhustles

batt>distro>4 gauge to both

Trunk Monkey

iTrader: (1)

Starting to get pretty annoyed with everything. I bought the Alpine PDX 100.4 and 1000.1 yesterday and both work fine. My only problem is that when I was disconnecting the Memphis amp to sell it, and hooking up the Alpine..I heard a weird noise from one of the JL subs. When I press on the sub, you can hear air coming from the top right corner. I first thought it was because there isn't a gasket and air was leaking from the contact point between the box and sub...so I fabricated 2 gaskets from Home Depot AND I bought silicone/acrylic latex and sealed the box because there were a few iffy spots. I felt like I got the sealed decently but there was 2 pretty big gaps near the front MDF board so I had to load up on caulking there. When playing music, you can hear the sub chuffing air it sounds like. Not all the time, but it's noticeable when your head is near it. When I press down on the sub, they don't spring back immediately like I thought they were supposed to. That was my first test and initially made me believe it was the box, hence why I sealed it and used gaskets for the subs. Now its still doing it and it's really starting to piss me off. I'm at school right now so I can't cut my ported box which houses 2 10's for 12's....so I might be looking into buying a sealed box for cheap, just to see if its the sub or box.

I took the sub out yesterday and pressed down a little like I do when its in the box, and I don't hear any rubbing or scratching sound like a voice coil rub or messed up spider. They are still relatively stiff and don't make any of those sounds. But when you press down on that one sub, and release it, you can hear air leaking somewhere. I've looked around the surround, in the area where you can hear it, and I can't seem to locate it. Any idea about how I would go about sealing a small leak where the surround meets the outer basket, if that's the location?? I know you can put some sort of silicone on the actual cone, but I'm not sure what you can do about the surround.

My box looks to be about 1.1cuft per chamber, and I've put about 0.5lbs of polyfill in each chamber to try to make it act larger. I've got the PDX 1.1000 hooked up to it at 4 ohms (low pass 15hz, gain a little under halfway, 0.1-1V selection for gain) and it honestly doesn't hit all that hard. It's a very "dry" and hollow type sound that I'm not sure I like. Again, I'm not sure if this is the box, the subs, or the amp but it just doesn't have that full sound to it. At times, I think that dry, quick bass is what SQ really is but I'm not sure as I've never heard a dedicated SQ setup. I know once my Massive RK6's come in on Tuesday and I get them installed, they'll help out the midbass and 70hz+ frequencies but I'm just not sure what to think about the sound. I wish some of you all lived closer to me so you could help, hear it, and see what you think. My luck....