tquint14

Did some searching and know most people are just upgrading their tweets by dropping in the infnity 1031t. My budget is low therefore this is the way to go for me. But where im confused is w the oem tweets. my undertanding is that they are 4ohm n wired parallel to the mids that are 2ohms..correct me if im wrong but wouldn't that make it like a 1.33ohm load on the amp? so by adding the 1031t that are 2ohm along w the stock mids that does make it a 2ohm load. how does the stock amp handle the 4ohm+2ohm load? thx

djtsmith007

iTrader: (1)

Parallel calculation - Stock
(4ohm(tweet)^-1 +2ohm(mid)^-1)^-1 = 1.333ohm
So if you add a 2ohm speaker in parallel to another 2ohm you get 1ohm load at the amp.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I thought the tweet/mid oem combo were a total of a 4 ohm load on the oem amp?

tquint14

Djtsmith007 u r absolutely right! Shame on me figured that one wrong. Either way how can the amp handle the 1ohm or 1.33 ohm(4ohm tweet/2ohm driver) load if its only 2ohm stable?

MOS805

I could be wrong but iirc the tweeter and woofer are crossed over somewhere in the dash and while the tweeter is 4ohms it has a resistor? or something on the back of it to drop the impedance down to 2 ohms so they are both individually giving the amp a 2 ohm load. So I assume best bet is to find another 2 ohm tweeter to replace the stocks.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I'd say replace stock with stock or upgrade the entire thing and go 4 ohm.

tquint14

Is the resistor for the oem tweet built in or inline? Womdering cuz if its inline n use the same wiring then it makes sense to get a 4ohm replacement not 2ohm

jokerman826

the resistance on the tweeter is 2Ω. They have a high pass filter built onto the tweeter to just allow the highs through. There is a capacitor and inductor on the tweeter itself. Most aftermarket tweeters will be 4Ω therefor lowering the total sound output compared to the stock, unless you have them running off of aftermarket amps.

I hate cars

It's been so long since I had the stock speakers, I might have to take them out of the box and look for sure but I thought the doors were 2ohm and the tweeters were 4 ohm.

As far as I know, the two speakers being driven off the same channel does not factor into the total resistance. Since they play different frequencies, you don't divide or multiply the individual speakers' impedances to get a total. The load on the amp is just different at different frequencies.

I believe to change the load on the amp, both speakers would have to be playing the same frequencies. With the doors not being lowpassed, I have no idea how this would factor in but the inductance is probably so high by the time the tweeter takes over it's insignificant. Remember, the stock tweeters don't take over till about 8khz.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

^^^whatever he says is probably true...even if it's based on vague recollection.

tquint14

^^^I agree. makes sense. Thx I HATE CARS.

prob the reason most are able to run the infinity 1031t even though they are only 2ohms. Also considering for mids ID CX62v2 since they are only 2ohms. Ive heard of others running them and claim to sound "good". just wonder how effcient they would be only feeding them 20w RMS...actually if that since the tweets are wired with them. At abt $160 for both its not a bad deal and def withing my price range. I rember back in the late 90's when i dropped over 2k just on my highs running FOCAL all the way around lol...those were the days

djtsmith007

iTrader: (1)

The only thing inline with the tweeter is a capacitor, which make it a high pass filter in this case.

tquint14

So in this case i should remove the oem inline cap/resistor and use the one that comes w the infinity 1031?

I hate cars

The factory cap is on the tweeter itself, not in the wiring so you will be fine using the Infinity one. Did you get a comp set with external crossovers or did you get just the tweeters with cap included?

I hate cars

Ok, now I'm finally behind a computer so I can type.

The connection is behind the glovebox but the cap is on the tweeter.

Lol. I would be careful, I don't know a whole lot about car audio but lately not a whole lot of people are posting in here.

I would think about the entire setup before you buy anything. If you're going to buy Infinity tweeters and the ID mids (which I think are a great choice btw), you might look into buying the entire ID CX62 comps so you'll get a better tweeter and adjustability to suit your tastes.

Too bad there are no specs on the IDs. Maybe someone else can help but I believe if one set is say 87db efficient with a 2ohm resistance and one set is 90db efficient at 4 ohms, output will be similar because one set will require half the power for the same output.

Stock speakers are usually more efficient than aftermarket. Maybe ID's 2 ohm speakers are aimed at OEM replacement and have greater sensitivity but that's only an uneducated guess.

I've run the 2ohm Infinity 6.5" with the 2ohm Infinity tweeter before on the stock amp and no issues there.

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

Don't be modest, you only FEEL like you don't know a lot about car audio but that's only because you're getting into it and know of people that know a LOT. You still know your sht in comparison to the majority of people poking around asking about ohms and watts for some minor upgrades to an OEM system.

PS...my ID's are still going strong in the rear deck. Thanks again!

tquint14

^^^the whole ID comps..never thought of that. Ill look into the cx62's.
If i go this route i assume i should remove the crossover behind the glove box..correct me if im wrong?

rockstar143

iTrader: (6)

I left mine, if you're going with external speakers (especially the ID comps) you're going to need a lot more juice than the oem amp can give you. In which case you'd be running a separate set of higher gauge wiring for your new speakers anyway.