Element2001

Hey guys, after purchasing my 06 TL last October I had Best Buy toss in my aftermarket amplifier and two 10" subwoofers. I immediately noticed how horrible the trunk sounded due to uber rattling, so I figured it was time to get the entire trunk dynamatted.

Best Buy did and excellent job dynamatting my entire trunk and trunk lid, but there was a still a huge annoying rattle both outside and inside the car that was eluding me. I finally figured out where it was coming from; and it's the back area containing the two speakers in the rear. The guys at Best Buy said I should buy some polyfill and stuff the area under there full of it and that should fix the problem.

My question is how can I gain access under the back window area so I can fill it? The guys at Best Buy said I might have to take out the back seat but that's way too much work for a car-incompetent guy like me lol. Let me know if there is an easier way guys...thx

rodneyc77

iTrader: (1)

To get to that area, Rear Deck, you will have to remove the back seat, Pilar Lining and then the actual rear deck. it's very simple to do and everything is held together with clips. Well, except for the back seat. All you need for that seat removal is a small racket with extention and a 10mm socket (6 total 10mm bolts). It can be done is 20 minutes tops, if it's your first time...

Element2001

arg...lol

oneflyguy

Can I ask how much Best Buy charged you to Dynamat the trunk area? I was thinking about doing the same to mine although I didn't realize that Best Buy offered this service.

Element2001

Well...Best Buy charges on an hourly basis. I think I brought my car in at 8:30 a.m. and they were done at 3 p.m. That bill was about $800, but I'm an employee so I got the service for a fraction of that.

Honestly, I always hear about how much dynamat is a godsend when it comes to making bass clearer, reducing rattles, etc. But after it was all said and done, it sounded the exact same to me as it did before. The rear deck is the main culprit in my case, and the spoiler (which nothing can be done about probably) and just the fact that's there's a lot of airspace in the trunk which I've heard isn't a good thing for creating a competition level car.

P.S. I inspected the work after I got the car home and in all honesty the guy did an awesome job. I guess the first step should be to identify the source of the rattles before jumping right into the dynamat lol. However though, I've had a huge variance in service quality from one Best Buy install bay to the next. And after the fact, if you have a free day the dynamat is something I would feel confident doing now; I was just completely ignorant of the process before but now it seems pretty easy. Crutchfield has a nice guide on it here:

http://www.crutchfieldadvisor.com/S-...mat_movie.html

datmrman

Check out this thread on how to remove the rear passenger seats. Its not that difficult.

Kracker

I have put 4 boxes of dynamat in my car. They where about 85 bux or so a box.

The only reason it sucked is because I was doing it in Texas. It took... Umm… four 8 hour days to do it. However, you need to keep in mind how crazy I am.

I did the trunk lid (lots of places to put dynamat to fix rattles), the spare tire area, the sides of the trunk... Up to where I couldn’t reach any more. I paid special attention to the wheel wells. I would say that there is less than 1 sq ft total left uncovered...

I did the deck lid, top of the strut area, the rear pillars (not alot of places to put it there), the wall between the rear seat and trunk. The rear seat floor, the front part of the wheel wells. The vertical part of the passenger foot well.

I did all the doors, on the inside... and out side.

Then... I did the wheel wells on the out side of the car... In addition, I put dynamat on the fenders.

I have 2 sq feet left and I plan to put that near the drivers side where the seatbelt attaches some time when its not 100 degrees out side.

Renli3D

Hey Kracker, I got a question. When you put the dynamat in, how did you layer it up? I'm thinking about doing the entire car using B-Quiet Ultimate, doubled up and then followed by B-Quiet V-Comp on top. Or do you think one layer of B-Quiet with the V-Comp would be good enough?

I'm worried about clearance, all that padding might prevent the trim from fitting so it would be cool if someone who has done this before can let us know if there is enough clearance for multiple layers.

Kracker

I only used dynamat extreme... Its only a little over a 1/4 inch thick... The only advice I would provide is to pay attention to the little push clips and leave a 1 inch square of uncovered... You might even order some extras before you start. Especially the one-way clips. I hate them. If you are doing under your rear seats.. Be very careful with the bolts you can break them... It can be very very frustrating.

Also put some masking tape... Screw it, take out the rear seat buckles.. and try to protect your seat belts and carpet. Its really easy to step / sit on a piece and sit down on something nice....

I also put another 1/2 a box on the doors... and 1 and 1/2 on the floor and roof... Roof sucked too..

jptl04

iTrader: (1)

man you're a dynamat extremest!!!! that's at least 100 lbs of dynamat

Kracker

20 pounds per box... that 120 lbs... But it was well worth it for the doors... the trunk lid made alot of noise too...

csmeance

might sound stupid, but why do we need to remove the weather gaurd, can't we just stick it on there so if we have to do any work to the inside of the door IE window motor, glass, etc, it can be removed easily?

Kracker

Sure... But you can also not take the paper backing off of the dynamat. Your not doing anything... The point of it is to reduce vibration. If it not stuck to the metal then you have done nothing.

So in my mind there are 4 surfaces that you can put dynamat on. The plastic door panel, under the weather plastic on the interior metal of the door, the inside of that (where the electric motor mounts, and the inside of the door; other side of the painted door surface.

The furthest inside surface is the best one.. It has the most exposure to outside vibrations, I also feel that the dynamat will protect me from any small dents..

If you are concerned about covering up access to stuff inside the door, dont cover it up. Its pretty easy to see what you have to do to get suff in and out. 2 bolts and then rotate... Dont cover it up. I didnt.

Renli3D

Thanks Kracker. Do you think dynamat on the ceiling was worthwhile? I don't hear much from my headliner, I figured most of the road noise would be from the floor and doors. After some thought, here's my plan. I'm going to take apart the entire car, bumpers, fenders, seats, carpet, headliner, dashboard - basically everything so I can have a bare shell. I'll spray some secondskin spectrum spray on the interior of the fenders, door panels, wheel wells, floor and trunk with secondskin firewall on the firewall. Then I'll layer everything with Damplifier Pro (one layer) (excluding fenders) followed by another layer of spectrum spray over the mats. After that I'll place a layer of SS Overkill Pro foam on the doors, trunk and floor. After that, one more layer of SS Luxury Liner on the floor only. Lastly, I'll stuff all trim pieces with SS Rattle Pad to stop rattles. Hopefully after all that I'll finally have a quiet care. My 2004 TL is so noisy it drives me insane. While I'm at it, I might as well do the rear backup camera install since the car is torn apart.

BTW, when you did your dynamat install, did you run into a lot of OEM dampening material?

dennisil

all that money for a little bass...

Renli3D

actually, it's not for the bass. I don't even like bass, I leave my bass settings at default (middle). I'm more concerned about road and wind noise. It's embarassing when I have passengers in the car and we have to shout to understand each other over the noise.

Kracker

There really isn't any sound dampening material on the roof... The headliner is what dampens the noise... If you want make it quiet, plan on taking the sunroof out.

Keep in mind that there are a lot of airbags that I didn't remove... I put stuff under it, but didnt get carried away...

the bumpers and fenders... Umm... Bumpers maybe.. Fenders no. I removed the fender liners and reached under there..

If I were going to do it over again I would start with the trunk and trunk lid and take out the rear seats to help remove the the trunk stuff. With that the removed you can do the rear deck and C pillars... If you want to proceed forward do so at that time...

Ill post more shortly...

But as far as factory sound damping.. There is a little 4inch by 12inch block in the door and rear quarter panels.

Under the front mats there is some material there... But I dropped my wrench on it it was still very loud..

Also keep in mind that you should plan to do anything you plan to do at that time. Run the wires for you backup camera, IPOD, lights... Plan it out...

Kennedy

iTrader: (2)

I used to be a super Dynamat nerd... but the effort has yet to yield enough result to make me a true beleiver. I still use it around speakers and such, but removing the headliner is no longer in my interests.

I'd like to ride in my car then Krackers to see how much better it sounds.

Kracker

Rear Seat:


Rear Deck