Tips on sealing doors?
Tips on sealing doors?
Im want to seal my doors, I've never done it and not too knowledgable about this. I found some good tutorials on diy, but was hoping some on here could offer specific advice about our vehicle.
The generic stuff works... nothing wierd about our cars.
Put a layer on the outer skin and cover the inner panel. I put a 1x1 sheet on the skin behind the speaker, but did not do the whole skin. I did cover the whole inner panel like the tutorials show.
Easy stuff. Get some quality stuff - it matters.
While you are in there, you could grease the window tracks with some Shin Etsu.
Put a layer on the outer skin and cover the inner panel. I put a 1x1 sheet on the skin behind the speaker, but did not do the whole skin. I did cover the whole inner panel like the tutorials show.
Easy stuff. Get some quality stuff - it matters.
While you are in there, you could grease the window tracks with some Shin Etsu.
Do you have that DIY tutorial??
I understand there are brands like Second Skin, Dynamat, etc and they work very well, but are kinda expensive if your looking to do both doors and parts of the trunk. There's the stuff at Home Depot like Peel n' Seel that I hear works great but gets mixed reviews on the smell of asphalt when it gets hot outside. Some say it smells for a day then goes away, others say it smells for months! Second skin looks to be one of the best but it's pricey when you're on a budget system.
I understand there are brands like Second Skin, Dynamat, etc and they work very well, but are kinda expensive if your looking to do both doors and parts of the trunk. There's the stuff at Home Depot like Peel n' Seel that I hear works great but gets mixed reviews on the smell of asphalt when it gets hot outside. Some say it smells for a day then goes away, others say it smells for months! Second skin looks to be one of the best but it's pricey when you're on a budget system.
The asphalt stuff is a disaster if you live anyplace where you need to roll your windows down in the summer for a few minutes before you get into a hot car - pretty much all of the USA. I can deaden sound, but at a high price in other areas.
I've made fiberglass plugs in the past. Kind of a PITA, but lightweight and very rigid. I am going to attempt low heat plastic as a base in this car. Hopefully that will work as well.
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Thanks for the responses. This was one of the links that I liked, but there are a lot of DIY threads on this topic. Im just afraid to mess with my car, I need to get over it! paying people to do stuff is getting old.
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...reatments.html
http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/...reatments.html
Make sure to do the door plastic panels too. Mine weren't too bad undeadened with the IDs but as soon as I put the Dyns in the doors, the door panels resonated terribly. I have as much of the panel covered as possible and I'm still fighting rattles.
I also used luxury liner on the outer door skin (the inside of the outside panel) to not only block road noise but so others couldn't hear my music. When stock, you can hear music very well outside of the car. Now I can crank it and unless you're standing next to the car you can't tell it's on.
The TL is the first door I've worked on but I tested it in various stages and there are benefits to covering the whole door. It's hard to stop rattles even with every square inch covered. The rest of the car I stuck by the 25%-50% rule like the floor and roof. There just doesn't seem to be any advantage to covering more than 50%.Trunk is nearly 100% covered due to the IB setup.
A little off topic but the Second Skin Luxury Liner Pro made a huge difference. I covered the entire floor of the car with it. Very easy to apply, just apply the vibration damper first, cut it and lay it down. Tire and road noise is almost non existent. I drove in the rain a couple days ago and you can't hear the tires hitting water anymore. My rear doors are not deadened yet and with the luxury liner installed on the floor, it sounds like one of my rear windows is open. I never noticed how much sound gets through the body and doors before.
I also used luxury liner on the outer door skin (the inside of the outside panel) to not only block road noise but so others couldn't hear my music. When stock, you can hear music very well outside of the car. Now I can crank it and unless you're standing next to the car you can't tell it's on.
The TL is the first door I've worked on but I tested it in various stages and there are benefits to covering the whole door. It's hard to stop rattles even with every square inch covered. The rest of the car I stuck by the 25%-50% rule like the floor and roof. There just doesn't seem to be any advantage to covering more than 50%.Trunk is nearly 100% covered due to the IB setup.
A little off topic but the Second Skin Luxury Liner Pro made a huge difference. I covered the entire floor of the car with it. Very easy to apply, just apply the vibration damper first, cut it and lay it down. Tire and road noise is almost non existent. I drove in the rain a couple days ago and you can't hear the tires hitting water anymore. My rear doors are not deadened yet and with the luxury liner installed on the floor, it sounds like one of my rear windows is open. I never noticed how much sound gets through the body and doors before.
IHC- What deadener are you using besides the luxury liner in your doors?? I need to deaden mine when I install the components but I don't know too much about deadener. I don't want to pay an arm and leg and cover each square inch. I think the doors and small portion of trunk will do.
IHC- What deadener are you using besides the luxury liner in your doors?? I need to deaden mine when I install the components but I don't know too much about deadener. I don't want to pay an arm and leg and cover each square inch. I think the doors and small portion of trunk will do.
I would do the doors for sure and then see what else needs it. If you go bandpass you won't need it in the trunk or the deck. I had zero rattles with zero sound deadener. You could pop the trunk with it on and barely hear any bass, it just stays in the cabin with that setup.
I did a lot of my deadening in small pieces when I had some free time. It was kind of neat because I could do a little area and then drive around for a week to see the changes. One small area that I did that made a huge difference at higher levels was the console on the roof. I didn't realize just how much noise that thing made in normal driving and with the bass up. I pulled it off and deadened it along with some of the sheet metal in that area and the top of the sunroof shade. The car was so much quieter just driving with the stereo off and the whole system sounded a lot cleaner. I didn't realize the vibrations can cause the system to sound muddy and lacking detail. The sunroof shade would always rattle especially when it was partially open. It has no rattles anymore.
If money is short, I would buy just enough for the doors right now because you know that area is necessary and buy some more when you have the money for other areas. I would definitely do the roof console next unless you go with a sealed or ported box in the trunk in which case I would do the deck and trunk next. I did mine in sections because it kept the gf from getting too mad at me spending money and it would only take an hour at a time instead of a whole weekend.
I did a lot of my deadening in small pieces when I had some free time. It was kind of neat because I could do a little area and then drive around for a week to see the changes. One small area that I did that made a huge difference at higher levels was the console on the roof. I didn't realize just how much noise that thing made in normal driving and with the bass up. I pulled it off and deadened it along with some of the sheet metal in that area and the top of the sunroof shade. The car was so much quieter just driving with the stereo off and the whole system sounded a lot cleaner. I didn't realize the vibrations can cause the system to sound muddy and lacking detail. The sunroof shade would always rattle especially when it was partially open. It has no rattles anymore.
If money is short, I would buy just enough for the doors right now because you know that area is necessary and buy some more when you have the money for other areas. I would definitely do the roof console next unless you go with a sealed or ported box in the trunk in which case I would do the deck and trunk next. I did mine in sections because it kept the gf from getting too mad at me spending money and it would only take an hour at a time instead of a whole weekend.
Make sure to do the door plastic panels too. Mine weren't too bad undeadened with the IDs but as soon as I put the Dyns in the doors, the door panels resonated terribly. I have as much of the panel covered as possible and I'm still fighting rattles.
I also used luxury liner on the outer door skin (the inside of the outside panel) to not only block road noise but so others couldn't hear my music. When stock, you can hear music very well outside of the car. Now I can crank it and unless you're standing next to the car you can't tell it's on.
The TL is the first door I've worked on but I tested it in various stages and there are benefits to covering the whole door. It's hard to stop rattles even with every square inch covered. The rest of the car I stuck by the 25%-50% rule like the floor and roof. There just doesn't seem to be any advantage to covering more than 50%.Trunk is nearly 100% covered due to the IB setup.
I also used luxury liner on the outer door skin (the inside of the outside panel) to not only block road noise but so others couldn't hear my music. When stock, you can hear music very well outside of the car. Now I can crank it and unless you're standing next to the car you can't tell it's on.
The TL is the first door I've worked on but I tested it in various stages and there are benefits to covering the whole door. It's hard to stop rattles even with every square inch covered. The rest of the car I stuck by the 25%-50% rule like the floor and roof. There just doesn't seem to be any advantage to covering more than 50%.Trunk is nearly 100% covered due to the IB setup.
I'm thinking about doing the rear deck and the floor under the rear seats while I'm there. Then next time I'll do the trunk floor.
I used some stuff from Lowes on my trunk lid, it's decent but I want to try something else for the interior.
Last edited by SpiderX1016; Apr 10, 2011 at 07:43 PM.
^ This. I'd like to know roughly how much to get to cover both door panels, a little inside/behind the metal, and some for the plastic on the actual panel because I already get rattles from the door panel without even listening to music. I'll More than likely do the trunk area also. Not sure about the deck as I don't want to pull the rear seats to get to it. Can you just deaden the bottom part of the deck and get away with it??
Anyways, just a rough estimate of how much you used would be nice. I don't want to spend more than $80-100 on this shit lol
Anyways, just a rough estimate of how much you used would be nice. I don't want to spend more than $80-100 on this shit lol
^ This. I'd like to know roughly how much to get to cover both door panels, a little inside/behind the metal, and some for the plastic on the actual panel because I already get rattles from the door panel without even listening to music. I'll More than likely do the trunk area also. Not sure about the deck as I don't want to pull the rear seats to get to it. Can you just deaden the bottom part of the deck and get away with it??
Anyways, just a rough estimate of how much you used would be nice. I don't want to spend more than $80-100 on this shit lol
Anyways, just a rough estimate of how much you used would be nice. I don't want to spend more than $80-100 on this shit lol
50 sq.ft. of FatMat is only $80 shipped. 120 sq.ft. is $130 shipped. I see lots of people using this so I'm sure its just as good as dynamat or Damplifier, though maybe a tad thinner. If you can get 120 sq.ft. and double up in cetain places then you'll be good I would think
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