For those who purchased the ST-800 smart system

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Jun 16, 2011 | 01:04 PM
  #41  
Quote: That looks good. Mine is getting installed right now
Post Pics as well I may say the Hell with Fathers Day and Leave my car to get this installed this Sunday
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Jun 16, 2011 | 01:12 PM
  #42  
Quote: New Bypass.

Keypad driver side

(I know its not centered, it was a test fit.)
Noober, Is this the same one?
http://cgi.ebay.com/idataLink-ADSALC...ht_2569wt_1139

If it is I may purchase it tomorrow unless White doesn't have any trouble installing his with the bypass that came with the system
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Jun 16, 2011 | 01:13 PM
  #43  
Quote: Post Pics as well I may say the Hell with Fathers Day and Leave my car to get this installed this Sunday
Sean is on the phone with my installer and he's helping him with the install. My car will prob be done today. And yeah I'll make a video as soon as I get my car back.
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Jun 16, 2011 | 01:26 PM
  #44  
Let me know what Remedy you guys came up with the Key situation. Did u use your Valet Key or Switchblade Key? I really don't want to use my Switchblade key cause that's the only one i have and then ill have to order a new one
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Jun 16, 2011 | 01:47 PM
  #45  
Quote: Let me know what Remedy you guys came up with the Key situation. Did u use your Valet Key or Switchblade Key? I really don't want to use my Switchblade key cause that's the only one i have and then ill have to order a new one
I have an 06 so I dont have the switchblade. But when I bought the car the Acura dealer gave me 3 keys. So I cut one of them
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Jun 16, 2011 | 02:23 PM
  #46  
Used my valet key for ignition cylinder and aftermarket bypass as my remote/chip. Since my valet key doesn't have a switchblade and isn't programed. Saving me a switchblade/money.
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Jun 16, 2011 | 02:33 PM
  #47  
Quote: Noober, Is this the same one?
http://cgi.ebay.com/idataLink-ADSALC...ht_2569wt_1139

If it is I may purchase it tomorrow unless White doesn't have any trouble installing his with the bypass that came with the system
yeah thats the one, but my installer works for futureshop so he programmed it there, not sure if your installer can program it to specifically work for your car, make sure with him/her first.
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Jun 16, 2011 | 02:42 PM
  #48  
cool Yeah imma get at him to see what he says. Thanks again
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Jun 16, 2011 | 03:09 PM
  #49  
Quote: yeah thats the one, but my installer works for futureshop so he programmed it there, not sure if your installer can program it to specifically work for your car, make sure with him/her first.
Hey can you ask your installer where he found the tach wire.
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Jun 16, 2011 | 03:22 PM
  #50  
This isn't an easy install at all. My installer is having a shit load of problems. With the remote start due to that they need to remove the whole intake manifold to get to the tach wire
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Jun 16, 2011 | 03:28 PM
  #51  
the tach wire you say???

this might help thanks to inaccurate

Quote: Our TL has no place to get a tach signal from. The oem tachometer obviously receives a signal. However, that signal for the oem tach is not suitable for aftermarket devices such as aftermarket tachs, shift lights, rpm windows, nitrous controllers, etc.

Fortunately, many newer cars also lack proper tach signals. Thus, AutoMeter (click here) and MSD (click here) make an electronic device to solve this problem. It is called a Tach Adapter.

Thanks to Acurazine member "jptl04" (OP of this thread), I had a head-start on how to wire a Tach Adapter to my TL.

However, I did not want to splice into every coil wire if I could avoid it. So, I did some research with the TL Service Manual. I discovered that I could splice just one wire under the dash instead of splicing six wires under the hood.








As mentioned by the OP of this thread, it is true that the Tach Adapter must be spliced into all six coils. However as you can see from the wiring diagram for our TL, we can splice into the wire before it branches out into six separate leads.





DIY FOR INSTALLING A TACH ADAPTER







In pic above - Remove the passenger-side console panels to gain access to the ECU area. We will *not* be touching any ECU wires. However, the wire that we do need is located next to the ecu wires.

The wiring harness (and white connector) is actually coming from the fuse panel from the driver-side. In the pics, the harness looks like it is a part of the ecu harnesses. But, it is not a part of the ecu harnesses. It just is routed along the same area.








In pic above - Locate the Black wire with a White strip (Blk/Wht). There is only one wire that is Blk/Wht in the white plastic connector block. However, there are other Blk/Wht wires in the large bundle that it merges into. So, make your splice where it is shown in my pic above, and you will be okay.








In pic above - Soldier the wires from the Tach Adapter to the spliced Blk/Wht wire. Be sure to insulate the connections with shrink tubing to prevent a short-to-ground.

Be sure to soldier these wires. Do not just twist them together. If the connections are lost or unreliable, the engine will not run.







In pic above - Tidy up your work by wrapping/taping the loose wires to the main fat harness.

By the way, the tach signal generated by the Tach Adapter is a true 6-cylinder signal. That is, when you send this signal to other devices (such as aftermarket tachs, shift lights, rpm windows, nitrous controllers, etc.), you will configure that device for a 6-cylinder signal.





PART LIST & PRICES


MSD Tach Driver PN# 8913 = $85 (click here)



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Jun 16, 2011 | 04:07 PM
  #52  
Does anyone know if the remotes already come programed
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Jun 16, 2011 | 04:18 PM
  #53  
Right now the car won't start with the button. And it won't remote start. Everything else seems to be working
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Jun 16, 2011 | 05:25 PM
  #54  
My car just got done, and it works amazing. I'll post pics and videos later
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Jun 16, 2011 | 05:33 PM
  #55  
woot congrats!
tell me one thing though, does your pushstart button stay illuminated, or does it dim out when you leave the car??
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Jun 16, 2011 | 05:52 PM
  #56  
Quote: woot congrats!
tell me one thing though, does your pushstart button stay illuminated, or does it dim out when you leave the car??
No it shuts off after I arm it and close the door
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Jun 16, 2011 | 06:30 PM
  #57  
Hey white can you pm me the number to sean? Thanks buddy.
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Jun 16, 2011 | 07:46 PM
  #58  
SO Any Updates to your Installs?
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Jun 16, 2011 | 07:56 PM
  #59  
Quote: SO Any Updates to your Installs?
I'll post videos and picture tomorrow after work. But the alarm works great. It is everything they say. The installation is extremely hard. For the remote start and for the push button to work. Your going to have to tap in one of the injector wires. And the ignition wiring that Sean sent me isn't completely correct there's a couple extra things my installer had to do. Like making a relay for the acc wires. In a difficulty scale 10 being the hardest . It's like an 8.5.
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Jun 16, 2011 | 08:09 PM
  #60  
Damn, Well hopefully my installer can handle it. Hes well known for Electro Mechanics on Cars. So hes Familiar with wirings in cars. Everyone brings him their cars when they have shorts or electrical problems. Hes a great installer as well so ill let him know the issues you guys had plus give him the diagrams from Sean. The only problem is that he only speaks spanish LMAO. If you can as well PM me Seans number, We might have to send this guy a tip for helping us out so much
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Jun 16, 2011 | 08:17 PM
  #61  
Quote: Damn, Well hopefully my installer can handle it. Hes well known for Electro Mechanics on Cars. So hes Familiar with wirings in cars. Everyone brings him their cars when they have shorts or electrical problems. Hes a great installer as well so ill let him know the issues you guys had plus give him the diagrams from Sean. The only problem is that he only speaks spanish LMAO. If you can as well PM me Seans number, We might have to send this guy a tip for helping us out so much
It took my installer 8 hours lol. But I love this alarm it's amazing. It feels so good not carrying a key anymore
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Jun 16, 2011 | 08:20 PM
  #62  
my installer took 3 hours yesterday, now its coming up to another 3 hours, he said to me that this is a big job, lol. agreed with white-angel, this isnt all plug and play at all..
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Jun 16, 2011 | 08:22 PM
  #63  
Starting my install right now. Wish me luck guys. Any tips I DEFINITELY need to know? Whats the solution to the accessory/ignition wire problem? No relay is needed right? Thanks.
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Jun 16, 2011 | 08:49 PM
  #64  
Quote: Starting my install right now. Wish me luck guys. Any tips I DEFINITELY need to know? Whats the solution to the accessory/ignition wire problem? No relay is needed right? Thanks.
Yes you must make a separate relay.
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Jun 16, 2011 | 11:04 PM
  #65  
such a headache, but we're all done, couldnt be happier, haha. didn't have to use my switchblade or cut my stock key
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Jun 17, 2011 | 09:38 AM
  #66  
Hey can anyone send me the diagram and any installer wanted to help me install mines when i order it? Willing to travel 2-3hour out of nj to get this done correctly
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Jun 17, 2011 | 10:53 AM
  #67  
Quote: Hey can anyone send me the diagram and any installer wanted to help me install mines when i order it? Willing to travel 2-3hour out of nj to get this done correctly
If you live in nj. The guy who did it for me works in east Brunswick. Idk how close you are to here but. PM your email and I'll forward you the diagram.
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Jun 17, 2011 | 11:06 AM
  #68  
came for the pics.... not seeing many
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Jun 17, 2011 | 11:38 AM
  #69  
Quote: came for the pics.... not seeing many
Check later around 6
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Jun 17, 2011 | 12:37 PM
  #70  
Did any of you diode isolate your doors instead of using the wire behind the fuse box? I read in another forum that that was the best thing to do. Any suggestions? I got some 1amp 400v diodes...
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Jun 17, 2011 | 01:14 PM
  #71  
Quote: If you live in nj. The guy who did it for me works in east Brunswick. Idk how close you are to here but. PM your email and I'll forward you the diagram.
check pm. did he do this at his shop or house?
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Jun 17, 2011 | 02:06 PM
  #72  
Quote: check pm. did he do this at his shop or house?
Shop he works at best buy. Good friend of mine.
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Jun 17, 2011 | 03:36 PM
  #73  
It's raining by me so you guys are going to have to wait till the weekend for pics and video. Btw anyone in nj PM if you want me to set you up an appointment with installer
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Jun 17, 2011 | 03:57 PM
  #74  
anyone want to groupbuy
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Jun 17, 2011 | 04:48 PM
  #75  
Quote: anyone want to groupbuy
You gotta first ask for authoraztion first you can't just start a group buy. Or they will close this thread like they did to our last thread
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Jun 17, 2011 | 05:09 PM
  #76  
oh yeah my fault. i forgot. btw do your installer charger extra for making a relay and w.e u need for this system?
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Jun 17, 2011 | 05:21 PM
  #77  
Quote: oh yeah my fault. i forgot. btw do your installer charger extra for making a relay and w.e u need for this system?
No he does not. He did a great job. The only thing I have to take it back tomorrow to adjust the tach. BecAuse sometimes it takes 2 tries to
Turn on the car if the cars warm. Other then that he did an excellent job
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Jun 17, 2011 | 11:34 PM
  #78  
Can someone PLEASE tell me how to connect the tachometer wire? Obviously I don't have an extra "Tach Adapter" laying around to try the method that "Inaccurate" posted. I tried tapping into one of the black/white wires coming out of the top backside of the engine (big bundle of black/yellow and black/white wires) since the wiring diagram for a 2004 Acura TL says "Not Black/Yellow." The engine never stops cranking this way... I'm really desperate guys... my car is dead until I get this working. Is the problem that I need to connect to the wire coming from every single injector? If so, do I have to take off the manifold? Thanks!
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Jun 18, 2011 | 07:06 AM
  #79  
Quote: Can someone PLEASE tell me how to connect the tachometer wire? Obviously I don't have an extra "Tach Adapter" laying around to try the method that "Inaccurate" posted. I tried tapping into one of the black/white wires coming out of the top backside of the engine (big bundle of black/yellow and black/white wires) since the wiring diagram for a 2004 Acura TL says "Not Black/Yellow." The engine never stops cranking this way... I'm really desperate guys... my car is dead until I get this working. Is the problem that I need to connect to the wire coming from every single injector? If so, do I have to take off the manifold? Thanks!
No you don't have to take of the manifold. What my installer did was he took all that plastic covers off. I'll try to explain this the best I can. If your facing your car from the front to back. On your left side under the manifold you could see the injectors atleast one of them. From one of the injectors idk exactly what color wires they have. But you must connect the tach to that one injector the one that's easier to get to
With out removing the manifold. Idk how my installer did
It I saw put a long string and just pull it out. And did all the connections. Also for everyone, there's a wire on that diagram that Sean capped off. That wire should not be capped of or your acc or ign won't work. I hope this help.
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Jun 18, 2011 | 10:01 AM
  #80  
Quote: No you don't have to take of the manifold. What my installer did was he took all that plastic covers off. I'll try to explain this the best I can. If your facing your car from the front to back. On your left side under the manifold you could see the injectors atleast one of them. From one of the injectors idk exactly what color wires they have. But you must connect the tach to that one injector the one that's easier to get to
With out removing the manifold. Idk how my installer did
It I saw put a long string and just pull it out. And did all the connections. Also for everyone, there's a wire on that diagram that Sean capped off. That wire should not be capped of or your acc or ign won't work. I hope this help.
Thank you so much!! I'm going to go try to do that right now! Are you talking about the white wire coming off of the ignition harness? Right now I have no accessory power, and I'm wondering if thats the problem. Where do I run that wire too though!?! Geez I need some help....
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