I have a 50 sq ft. roll of Fatmat Rattle Trap that I plan on applying to my 07 TL.

I plan on sound deadening as much as the roll will take me, specifically the following areas:

top of rear deck
bottom of rear deck - overkill?
trunk lid
entire trunk flooring
"v" bars between the back seats and trunk
back seat floor - if material allows

Are there any specific areas that I'm missing or those who have missed in the passed wish they would've applied sound deadening to?

I'm just trying to plan ahead

 

what exactly are oyu trying to do? Are you getting a sound system in the trunk so you are trying to sound deaden it, or are you just trying to eliminate road noise and such? For road noise and that, people do the doors as well as the floors in the cabin.

 

I'm doing a sound system install and am looking to reduce/eliminate rattles that would otherwise develop without sound deadening.

reduced road noise would be a bonus too

 

I am researching this stuff too at the moment and I am a noob but you seem to cover all the basis I think. There isn't much more you can do with 50sq/ft. I know that I will be adding the sub in the trunk so I will do the trunk but if I was to add new speakers and all, then I would do the doors too.

 

Do the doors. Do them well.

Take the counterweight out of the trunk, put 4 screws into your license plate and take the stock sub out. Read up on the rear deck rattles and fix them.

Then crank it up and listen for rattles.

I would not deaden my trunk again - the weight is not worth the audio changes. The road noise from the trunk is no issue for me.

I did not deaden my rear deck because it is a good place for sound to get through. If you take care of the standard rattle issues, then this should be fine.

I roll enough watts through my 12 that I get rattles from spare change in the console, behind the dash and even the sunroof tracks rattle a little bit... but none from the deck, trunk or doors even at high volumes.

 

put some under the third brake like cover...itll start to rattle after some time

 

Bumping this thread instead of starting a new one to keep the discussion going...

I'm looking to do a full Focal install next week and I'm wondering what the best course of action is to eliminate the most road noise (to increase SQ). I think I'll follow JDA's advice and skip the trunk for now; I just have a single 8" (21v2), though I may upgrade to a 21KX or 33kx if I score one for a decent price.

That said, will doors + floor + RD rattle prevention be sufficient? If so, how much sqft am I looking at?

 

Yes that will be sufficient if done correctly. I believe I used about 22 sq. ft on mine but I wouldn't mind having overkill. Anything 25sqft and up should be fine

 

Also!! Just deadening isn't going to make it quiet. You need a vinyl layer to stop the sound and basically act as a seal. Check out Sound Deadener Showdown or Second Skin. Best 2 for most people

 

The floor, front and rear wheel wells, doors, and roof will make the difference.

On the floor, vibration damper covering 25-50% with 100% coverage with a mass loaded vinyl sound blocker like Second Skin Luxury liner Pro.

On the roof, some damper with as much coverage with with sound blocker as you can get. Vibration damper on the small plastic pieces of the upper console and on top of the sunroof shade will make a big difference as well. Those areas make more noise than you would think.

Wheel wells, remove the factory stuff use a little vibration damper and you can put the sound blocker over or under the factory stuff.

Front doors I would do 100% coverage with the vibration damper because resonances will cause hell in frequency response when you start tuning stuff as I'm finding out the hard way. Also do the door panel as well. Apply a layer of sound blocker too.

On the rears doors, just a little vibration damper and 100% coverage with sound blocker.

I think it's great you're doing this. Why spend thousands of dollars for great speakers with low distortion only to have a ton of "distortion" once you start the engine and start moving. With such a nice set of speakers, I consider sound blocker a mandatory part of installation.

A friend of mine has had a 33kx for years that's never been used. I helped him move the other day and took a look at the sub and also put a tiny scratch on the magnet... If you're interested, I can ask what he wants for it. All else being equal, bigger will sound better and require less power.

 

Also, once you get the rest of the car quiet, you find the next weakest link..... the glass. Windshield isn't bad but you will now be able to hear just how much noise gets through the side glass. It sounds like you have a window cracked since the rest of the car is so quiet. Now I understand why my friend's CL65 Mercedes uses a double pane glass side window with gel in the middle.

 

OK, say I want to go with Second Skin and get the interior as quiet as possible (within a reasonable budget). 30 sqft for front and rear doors, floor, and rear deck for rattle (leaving out trunk, just have a single, small sub)? Are the rear doors even necessary?

 

Whoops, forgot to refresh the page before I posted. Thanks IHC!

The biggest problem I'm facing is $$ and ease of install. I like taking things apart and putting them back together, but I've always been apprehensive about doing big jobs to my car since it's my DD. I planned on having an audio shop in Austin do the speaker install and some dampening, or at least part of it. Based on how long some of this takes, any idea which of the dampening measures you mentioned are "easy"? I'm guessing I can pay them to do the floor, rear deck, and possibly roof (depending on how much it costs) and I might be able to tackle the doors.

PS - please ask how much for the 33KX. I don't think it will be within my budget, but if he wants to get rid of it for a low price PM me.

 

bumping this again - IHC, your PM box is full. Any update on how much your friend wants for the 33KX?

 

Has anyone tried using a roll of Storm Guard from a home supply warehouse as a substitute for Dynamat and other pricey material?
It seems awful similar and a lot cheaper.

 

That's 2 words that could be used to describe A LOT of things at multiple home supply stores. Do you have a link w/ description...?

 

Sorry about that, I'll ask him this week. I've been a bit distracted with the IRS trying to take everything I've ever worked for and losing the battle.

 

Good luck with that!

And no worries on the sub - I bought one last week.

 

Oh wow, sorry, I didn't look at the date, I thought that was a new post. What did you get?

 

A 33kx

 

Nice lol. How do you like it? I've stared at one for years but never heard one.

 

No idea (link to thread). I'm pretty sure it's going to sound amazing, though.

 

Here is the GAF link. Of course they don't mention (and couldn't care less about our Dynamat needs) but I was stunned when I looked at it and realized it looked like Dynamat on a big roll.

http://www.gaf.com/Roofing/Residenti...k-Barrier.aspx

I ripped the interior out of a Suburban 7 years ago and slathered a roll of this stuff everywhere and made the thing Lexus quiet with an $80 roll.

It's a bit less than a 1/16 inch thick with a peel and stick that's easy to pull and reposition. Cuts with a pair of house shears.

Curious if anyone else had the same discovery.

 

If is as asphalt base, it can smell and get sticky again (and can melt) when it gets hot. I dunno if it is asphalt, or not.

 

^ This. I looked at it and the documents in that link about it, but nothing stated what it was composed of. I assume its an asphalt-based product...which is turn in a "mass loader". NOT a deadener. It can be used as a deadener but you need 2-3 layers to properly deaden, costing you more money, time and possibility of not getting that panel back on. Trust me, with the CLD tiles, MLV and CCF....my panel didn't go on like factory lol. Door feels beastly now though. Definitely a luxurious feel

 

I had a 94 Mustang GT that I wanted to quiet down due to exhaust and road noise. Plus I was bored during the winter so I did this:







I took EVERYTHING out of the inside, including the door panels. I used "FatMat" with the included roller thing (which broke halfway through). You'll also need a hair blower to help it conform to the creases and sharp bends. Here's how it ended up:










In the end I think I used 100 sq ft, and it made a HUGE difference. The doors didnt clunk when I closed them, and road/exhaust noise was almost entirely resolved. It did smell for a day or two, but again it was the winter so I wasnt driving it until the spring. Even in the summer heat I never smelled anything from it.