Just looking for front 2-way component, 2.1 channel system without rear speakers. This is just for DD with rock/pop/classical music mostly. I am looking to improve clarity and separation from OEM sound.

HU : *Stock HU non-navi
DSP : **JBL MS-8 - maybe
Amp. : JL HD 900/5
Comp. : ***Focal PS165F (aka 'the new flax cone'. Same drivers as PS165FX, but with cheaper crossover which doesn't matter because I want to either stay simply passive or go fully active.)
Sub : **** Don't know what subwoofer. I looked around about a month ago and the only thing I remember is Acoustic Elegance and JL.



*Q1 : I've been searching a lot but haven't found a clear answer on routing the signal from HU to amp (or DSP) input. So far I've concluded that if I use twisted(?) shielded cable and not run it alongside power cable I can drag it all the way back to the trunk WITHOUT LOC (because both JL HD and JBL MS8 accepts low lvl). Will I be okay doing this?

**Q2 : I am aware that DSP is always good to have, but given that stock HU puts out pretty flat signal I don't feel like doing it yet. I wonder if the system WITHOUT MS-8 (using JL amp's LPF for subwoofer) would still sound way better than OEM(been listening with bass -2, fader F7 @ volume 30 on aux cord). I will definitely use it when going fully active, but the earliest I can get time off to tune (read : let MS-8 tune it for me) would be this summer and I want new sound ASAP.

***Q3 : Would I sacrifice noticeable (I know, subjective, sorry) sound quality if I place the passive crossovers right next to the HD 900/5 in the trunk and run speaker wire all the way to the front? I'm wondering because I want to be able to go active and add DSP without having to mess with cabin interior panels and wires when I do.

****Q4 : Really haven't had time to look into subwoofer yet. IB would be ideal 12+" but while I'm not a fan of boxes, I think I'll be okay with one if it can sit deep inside the trunk up against the rear seat back. Looking for clean bass notes. Any suggestions under $400 (including box or IB mounting hardware cost)? Amp puts out 500W RMS @ 1.5-4ohm.

Q5 : Does Home Depot "Acoustical Barrier" actually help block road noise if I cut them into the shape of floor mat and put it on top or below the mat? Floor already has some "Dynamat"... on the outside... don't ask

Thank you for reading and be safe everyone.

 

I would avoid the MS-8, there's a number of people that were doing TL builds that picked up MS8s and were very unhappy with the performance. You'll need some kind of DSP to tune the system, one way or another I think however, and we're a little limited in terms of choices for the TL given the 6 channels.

EDIT: Audison Bit One might be a better choice, and can usually be had for less than the MS8 used

 

MS8 will work but its to old of a unit now, and you might run in to some ground noise or whatever the case maybe

On the other hand, I would maybe wait for AudioFrong, also Mosconi 6to8 dsp, helix c-dsp, Alpine H800 i could keep going if you like,

If you plan on using DSP you only need left and right ch that are full range! no need to connect all ch, thats one of the resons why you have a DSP!

 

Sorry I didn't read you wanted 2.1

Then you have a ton of options.

 

N1H11ty,

I recently completed my build utilizing the following:

OEM Headunit
OEM Rear Speakers (Rear fill only)
Image Dynamics XS-65 2 way Components (Front)
Image Dynamics IDMAX12
Precision Power P1000.1
Precision Power P900.4 (Bridged)
Audio Control Matrix

I too thought about including a DSP in the mix, specifically the MiniDSP-C), but after bridging the fronts to the PPI 900.4 and using passive crossovers, I could not be happier. The sub-woofer is a IB installation recessed on -2- pieces of 3/4" MDF. The Audio Control Matrix was a must to increase the HU output. The entire trunk to include the rear deck and upper trunk lid and both doors has Dynamat applied. I solder the front (left/right) and sub-woofer speaker wires to RCA which connect to the Matrix.

As this point, I am not in a rush to add the DSP, but no knows what the future holds.

Good luck with your build.

 

All solid choices. Maybe different processor or no processor to start. JL amp will go under the drivers seat no need to go to trunk. Crossovers and processor under passenger seat. Short runs and discrete. Consider infinite baffle for sub.

 

Interesting... Perhaps I was hasty in picking up an aftermarket head unit - At the same time however, I wasn't very happy with the way the stock unit worked with aux input and wanted the flexibility to run 2 way active out of the box - Plus I like that I'll be able to run an SD card in the Pioneer DEH80PRS and use its on-board DAC(s) which is probably superior to most mobile DACs I could have bought to use with my phone or Nexus 7 for that matter.

 

I added the Isimple ISHD-651 which allows me to use the USB for music to avoid dealing with CD's. I have a 2015 Audi A5 that comes standard with the SD Card slot which I use for music and absolutely love. For my cable runs, I used 0/1 Gauge Power (Battery) and 14 Gauge Lead (Fused #32) down the left side of the vehicle. New 14 Gauge speaker wire was used for the front tweeters and mids with -2- shielded RCA cables that run down the right side of the vehicle. I highly recommend you look into IB for sub. Simple install and conserves trunk space.

 

I've seen the horror stories and threads here and DIYMA and everywhere else. I'm just trying to get a taste of autotune which I still believe MS-8 does pretty well. Eventually will look at more sophisticated DSPs with more bands to adjust, but for now no processor will do, if any, MS-8 I happened to have around for a while now.

I'm going to go see if I can fit MS-8 under the seat, and if there's any polite way to tell back seat passengers to not shove their feet under the front seats .

And now that you mention processor no processor to start, anyone used stock HU output without processor with noticable improvements over stock system?

 

I have no processor and noticeable improvement over OEM. OEM mid bass is non existent.

 

like pohljm said, major improvement even without a processor.

 

Awesome. I'm gonna assume that the distance between drivers and passive crossovers is not significant. Now to find a subwoofer...