"System" In The Works!
06-21-2009, 12:34 AM
#201
there is absolutely nothing crazy about them...they make things very simple...wether it be @ 1.5-4 ohms...the amplifier delivers the specified power...
the overall goal is to try and run the amplifier within its efficiency range...
i seriously don't know what everyone's deal is over 1 ohm stability...for the amount of current that it takes for such a lil gain...
you're seriously confused...please rephrase with proper terminology
-Jason
the overall goal is to try and run the amplifier within its efficiency range...
i seriously don't know what everyone's deal is over 1 ohm stability...for the amount of current that it takes for such a lil gain...
you're seriously confused...please rephrase with proper terminology
-Jason
Hah. I don't know where to get proper terminology. What I'm saying is basically, (and this is where your knowledge is requested) I thought the lower you can get your ohm rating, the more power you can squeeze out of your amplifier. More power resulting in a harder hitting bass note. Less efficient for the amp (and I guess your electrical system) but louder.
And with the JL 1.5 ohm rating, I lack the knowledge of how to connect subs at 1.5 ohms. I understand if JL means, the range of the amp is 1.5 - 4 ohms. But I only see how you'd get to 2 ohms or 4 ohms.
06-21-2009, 01:59 AM
#202
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Hah. I don't know where to get proper terminology. What I'm saying is basically, (and this is where your knowledge is requested) I thought the lower you can get your ohm rating, the more power you can squeeze out of your amplifier. More power resulting in a harder hitting bass note. Less efficient for the amp (and I guess your electrical system) but louder.
And with the JL 1.5 ohm rating, I lack the knowledge of how to connect subs at 1.5 ohms. I understand if JL means, the range of the amp is 1.5 - 4 ohms. But I only see how you'd get to 2 ohms or 4 ohms.
And with the JL 1.5 ohm rating, I lack the knowledge of how to connect subs at 1.5 ohms. I understand if JL means, the range of the amp is 1.5 - 4 ohms. But I only see how you'd get to 2 ohms or 4 ohms.
however...what your ears will detect will be the terrible quality quality of sound that your subs are now producing...this is do to the increased clipping as well as the lack of cone control due to the unacceptably low level of damping control provided or should i say not provided by the amplifier...
as far as achieving 1.5 ohms.,..
the 8, 10, 12 w7's are SVC 3ohm drivers...
while the 13w7 is a DVC 1.5ohm driver...
two of the svc 3 ohm drivers in parallel will yield a 1.5 ohm impedence load
or strapping an amp to each of the 1.5 ohm coils on a 13 w7
or back in the day jl used to make 6 ohm drivers
-Jason
06-22-2009, 12:47 AM
#203
if you're an spl competitor shooting for numbers...than gaining every bit of power you can is beneficial...in order to gain any noticible gain in volume..approx 3db louder...you need nearly 4 times the power...so doubling the power..nets only 1.5 db...however your ears are unable to detect such a minute change in volume...
however...what your ears will detect will be the terrible quality quality of sound that your subs are now producing...this is do to the increased clipping as well as the lack of cone control due to the unacceptably low level of damping control provided or should i say not provided by the amplifier...
as far as achieving 1.5 ohms.,..
the 8, 10, 12 w7's are SVC 3ohm drivers...
while the 13w7 is a DVC 1.5ohm driver...
two of the svc 3 ohm drivers in parallel will yield a 1.5 ohm impedence load
or strapping an amp to each of the 1.5 ohm coils on a 13 w7
or back in the day jl used to make 6 ohm drivers
-Jason
however...what your ears will detect will be the terrible quality quality of sound that your subs are now producing...this is do to the increased clipping as well as the lack of cone control due to the unacceptably low level of damping control provided or should i say not provided by the amplifier...
as far as achieving 1.5 ohms.,..
the 8, 10, 12 w7's are SVC 3ohm drivers...
while the 13w7 is a DVC 1.5ohm driver...
two of the svc 3 ohm drivers in parallel will yield a 1.5 ohm impedence load
or strapping an amp to each of the 1.5 ohm coils on a 13 w7
or back in the day jl used to make 6 ohm drivers
-Jason
w6 v2 is still 4ohm each coil correct? i hope so!
06-22-2009, 01:18 AM
#204
Team Owner
Jason-- I had a friend that's big into car audio and not so into JL Audio take a ride in the car today. He's heard it in all of it's incarnations over the last two years. I always got the typical overpriced, much better sq for less money, you know the usual stuff. Now he's asking me if my friend (you) would be willing to design a bandpass with a single 13.5" W6 for his Porsche 951. I think the Ghetto Miracle Box impressed him fairly well.
I played some Bush and country first and he was very impressed with the punch it had. Then I played some TI at very high volumes and he couldn't believe it hit the low notes when it had so much punch with the country.
Then I had him go in the back seat and feel the subs while playing rap at high volumes and the face he made when he felt the subs barely moving was priceless.
This guy is hard to impress and he's been brutally honest with my setups in the past so it actually means something that he wants to duplicate the setup.
To anyone wanting the absolute best sub bass for the TL, it ends here. If Jason decides to mass market this stuff I suggest jumping on the chance. It still surprises me on some CDs that will have one track with tight hard hitting bass that sounds awesome and the next track is low deep bass that also sounds great. Not to mention I cut my gains by half going from the sealed box to the GMB.
One thing I particularly like is it seems to have taken some of the midbass requirement away from the 6.5" door speakers.
If you're interested in designing a box with similar properties using a single 13.5" W6, he's willing to pay good money just for the blueprints or the whole box and sub.
I played some Bush and country first and he was very impressed with the punch it had. Then I played some TI at very high volumes and he couldn't believe it hit the low notes when it had so much punch with the country.
Then I had him go in the back seat and feel the subs while playing rap at high volumes and the face he made when he felt the subs barely moving was priceless.
This guy is hard to impress and he's been brutally honest with my setups in the past so it actually means something that he wants to duplicate the setup.
To anyone wanting the absolute best sub bass for the TL, it ends here. If Jason decides to mass market this stuff I suggest jumping on the chance. It still surprises me on some CDs that will have one track with tight hard hitting bass that sounds awesome and the next track is low deep bass that also sounds great. Not to mention I cut my gains by half going from the sealed box to the GMB.
One thing I particularly like is it seems to have taken some of the midbass requirement away from the 6.5" door speakers.
If you're interested in designing a box with similar properties using a single 13.5" W6, he's willing to pay good money just for the blueprints or the whole box and sub.
06-22-2009, 01:34 PM
#205
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06-23-2009, 02:37 AM
#208
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06-23-2009, 12:33 PM
#211
Three Wheelin'
06-23-2009, 12:35 PM
#212
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Nope..it really isn't a reach...no jokin...while i'm outta commision...and no subwoofer system..i had a jl pre fabbed enclosure for a single 12w6v2...and man...the miracle box smokes if in every sense...for all of you guys that are firing their subwoofers into the trunk area...you guys are totally missing out on how much better your systems could sound...no joke!!! and btw..the tl is a rattle trap in the trunk...
eggy...fly to la...come listen and hang out!
there are only 2 people on this forum that have heard it first hand...and they were blown away!
-Jason
eggy...fly to la...come listen and hang out!
there are only 2 people on this forum that have heard it first hand...and they were blown away!
-Jason
06-23-2009, 12:42 PM
#214
Three Wheelin'
06-23-2009, 03:56 PM
#218
Team Owner
Eggy, you really need to find a way to hear that box.
If you read most of my other posts on this board, most of them are disagreeing with other members and I'm not afraid of a little conflict.
But when I saw the design and concept of this box, it's the only thing that made perfect sense in every way. It eliminated all of the problems we have with the subs in the trunk.
Listening to it just reinforced how well it worked. Trust me, even though Jason is a nice guy I would have politely posted a bad review of the setup if I didn't like it.
I haven't just had one person, nearly everyone who has been in the car as a passenger just going to lunch or whatever has asked what I have in there even with the volume down.
Keep in mind, mine doesn't sound quite as good as Jason's.
If you read most of my other posts on this board, most of them are disagreeing with other members and I'm not afraid of a little conflict.
But when I saw the design and concept of this box, it's the only thing that made perfect sense in every way. It eliminated all of the problems we have with the subs in the trunk.
Listening to it just reinforced how well it worked. Trust me, even though Jason is a nice guy I would have politely posted a bad review of the setup if I didn't like it.
I haven't just had one person, nearly everyone who has been in the car as a passenger just going to lunch or whatever has asked what I have in there even with the volume down.
Keep in mind, mine doesn't sound quite as good as Jason's.
06-23-2009, 09:28 PM
#219
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This is interesting. I've been reading pages of information here as I'm about to install my equipment. I have a set (2) of 12" Hertz High Energy HX300 subs which will be powered by an Audison LRX 5.1k which will also be powering the fronts, which is also a set of Hertz High Energy HSK 165. I've only ever heard the subs on the display panel in the shop but from what I understand they are pretty good for the money. They also recommend a sealed enclosure however the manual offers dimensions for both a sealed and reflex box.
What would you recommend and could you design, draw, the box? I'm sold on the best solution however do not wish to sacrifice the entire trunk for a box.
Thanks
What would you recommend and could you design, draw, the box? I'm sold on the best solution however do not wish to sacrifice the entire trunk for a box.
Thanks
06-23-2009, 10:29 PM
#220
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This is interesting. I've been reading pages of information here as I'm about to install my equipment. I have a set (2) of 12" Hertz High Energy HX300 subs which will be powered by an Audison LRX 5.1k which will also be powering the fronts, which is also a set of Hertz High Energy HSK 165. I've only ever heard the subs on the display panel in the shop but from what I understand they are pretty good for the money. They also recommend a sealed enclosure however the manual offers dimensions for both a sealed and reflex box.
What would you recommend and could you design, draw, the box? I'm sold on the best solution however do not wish to sacrifice the entire trunk for a box.
Thanks
What would you recommend and could you design, draw, the box? I'm sold on the best solution however do not wish to sacrifice the entire trunk for a box.
Thanks
Eggy, you really need to find a way to hear that box.
If you read most of my other posts on this board, most of them are disagreeing with other members and I'm not afraid of a little conflict.
But when I saw the design and concept of this box, it's the only thing that made perfect sense in every way. It eliminated all of the problems we have with the subs in the trunk.
Listening to it just reinforced how well it worked. Trust me, even though Jason is a nice guy I would have politely posted a bad review of the setup if I didn't like it.
I haven't just had one person, nearly everyone who has been in the car as a passenger just going to lunch or whatever has asked what I have in there even with the volume down.
Keep in mind, mine doesn't sound quite as good as Jason's.
If you read most of my other posts on this board, most of them are disagreeing with other members and I'm not afraid of a little conflict.
But when I saw the design and concept of this box, it's the only thing that made perfect sense in every way. It eliminated all of the problems we have with the subs in the trunk.
Listening to it just reinforced how well it worked. Trust me, even though Jason is a nice guy I would have politely posted a bad review of the setup if I didn't like it.
I haven't just had one person, nearly everyone who has been in the car as a passenger just going to lunch or whatever has asked what I have in there even with the volume down.
Keep in mind, mine doesn't sound quite as good as Jason's.
blue prints don't exist..everything is one off at this point..i'm going to master cam it out so i can cut it with a 5 axis router to make producing them a lil faster and less of a pain in the ass...
http://img195.imageshack.us/gal.php?g=img2882c.jpg
thats what i have right now... take a look and let me know what you think.
thats what i have right now... take a look and let me know what you think.
-Jason
06-25-2009, 04:37 AM
#222
I was hoping to install a set of the SPX-17PROs or the Polk SR6500s to upgrade my front sound stage from stock. A friend of mine had a 4-Channel amp laying around (RF Power 750x)
I checked the Crutchfield site and was hoping their fitting guide was wrong because they kept recommending 5 1/4s up front.
I'm hoping the Crutchfield site is wrong.
So I have two questions for you.
1. Do the Alpine SPX-17PROs fit in the stock location without having to modify the doors like you have?
2. How did you mount your amp rack? I love it! I've got a Kicker 850.2 and would like to mount mine in a similar way.
TIA!
06-25-2009, 05:34 PM
#223
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Sealed large holes with corrison resitant material...
Bare door...
Front Plate...
Rear Lower Plate...
Rear Upper Plate temp installed...notice door contours
Plated before dynamat
-Jason
Bare door...
Front Plate...
Rear Lower Plate...
Rear Upper Plate temp installed...notice door contours
Plated before dynamat
-Jason
06-25-2009, 09:00 PM
#226
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final front driver's door...
2 hrs per door...lol...better safe than sorry...
and as of right now...i'm finally bodyworkin the drivers door pod....sanding suck with only one hand available...no switch hittin for me =P
and trew..i still have all of my fingers...so =P to you!
thanks for all the kind words
more progress later...it's AMAZING what you can get done when you don't have to do this for a livin anymore..ahahaha...
-Jason
06-26-2009, 12:48 PM
#227
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One door pod ready to be wrapped...got to wait on material!
Body worked the drivers pod and rattle-canned it flat black to see the shape...
Hopefully I'll get to the other pod some time next week....
-Jason
Hopefully I'll get to the other pod some time next week....
-Jason
Last edited by CSWBiggs; 06-26-2009 at 12:51 PM.
06-27-2009, 05:53 PM
#229
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07-03-2009, 12:50 PM
#232
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Biggs,
I hate to bother you with something so simple... but you seem to be the man to ask.
I have a setup in my car where I go from the stock amp unit to a 360. Then from the 360 to a couple JL amps, and a small Boston amp for my center.
My question is about remote turn on. Right now, I'm using the auto-sense mode on the 360 where it detects voltage on the speaker lines and automatically switches on the amps.
The problem I'm having is ever since I installed the setup, my battery dies after maybe 3/4 days of not using the car. I've replaced the battery thinking maybe it was old, but it's still doing the same thing.
How are you planning on doing remote amp turn-on in your setup? Could you please shed some light? I thought of just putting a switch that'll feed 12V to the amp remote turn-on posts, but that's kinda lame.
Any ideas?
Thanks, man, and your setup is crazy insane!
Rob
I hate to bother you with something so simple... but you seem to be the man to ask.
I have a setup in my car where I go from the stock amp unit to a 360. Then from the 360 to a couple JL amps, and a small Boston amp for my center.
My question is about remote turn on. Right now, I'm using the auto-sense mode on the 360 where it detects voltage on the speaker lines and automatically switches on the amps.
The problem I'm having is ever since I installed the setup, my battery dies after maybe 3/4 days of not using the car. I've replaced the battery thinking maybe it was old, but it's still doing the same thing.
How are you planning on doing remote amp turn-on in your setup? Could you please shed some light? I thought of just putting a switch that'll feed 12V to the amp remote turn-on posts, but that's kinda lame.
Any ideas?
Thanks, man, and your setup is crazy insane!
Rob
07-03-2009, 03:00 PM
#233
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Passenger Side ready to be wrapped
Finger Healing Progress
lol
Zax...
I used a T-Tap off of the Yellow Accy Wire in the ignition harness at the fusebox...fused with a 5 amp fuse...
-Jason
Finger Healing Progress
lol
Zax...
I used a T-Tap off of the Yellow Accy Wire in the ignition harness at the fusebox...fused with a 5 amp fuse...
-Jason
07-04-2009, 02:58 PM
#236
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don't be affraid to use it...
it's a funny thing...i've always wondered what it would be like to touch the spinning blade...guess I don't have to wonder anymore!
-Jason
07-04-2009, 06:53 PM
#237
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So what happened that caused you to do that to your finger?
07-05-2009, 09:47 PM
#238
Kinda like when I was a kid and I wondered what it would feel like to turn the handle bars on my bike when I was going really fast... one day I did it and found out!!!! Funny thing was I found out what asphault tasted like that day too...
Anyways... Your car looks great man!!!
07-06-2009, 08:04 AM
#240
Team Owner
Kinda like when I was a kid and I wondered what it would feel like to turn the handle bars on my bike when I was going really fast... one day I did it and found out!!!! Funny thing was I found out what asphault tasted like that day too...
Anyways... Your car looks great man!!!
Anyways... Your car looks great man!!!