Keep the stock amp for your navi/HFL.
Lots of good info here, guys.
I believe we already removed the trunk lid weight. It's still heavy with the two HID ballasts!! Ditch the SS on the trunk lid idea and start with the doors.
So you're going to Lancaster on 10/2, then coming here?

 

Run a LOC if going post stock amp.

Run a line driver (or nothing) if going pre-amp.

Pre-amp will get rid of the hiss of the stock amp once you start adding more power.

The cap is really not necessary on a 500w class D amp.

 

The items are actually at my father's in York. If you don't mind if I'm not up to anything that day I'll tag along as well for a little, it'd be cool to hang for a while.

 

thanks. i'm gonna have a 500w amp and a 300w amp. one for sub and one for front components. still leave the CAP out of the equation?

looks like i'm going pre-amp with the matrix line driver.


yeah i don't remember if we removed the trunk weight...guess we'll find out.

yeah i'm heading up to see aaron first thing that morning, then heading down your way...should get to you around 9:30am. hope you're up!

thanks for the confirmation. pre-amp it is.

hey, email me the address i need to go to.

that's cool if you wanna come with...more hands the better!

 

alright guys i have another question...

when installing the front components...do i need to make any sort of support for the speakers? will they be a pain in the ass to install as is?

i notice some people make these 'wooden-frame supports' for front components. (sorry...idk what they're called) thoughts?

comps. are massive ck6 stage v (6 1/2")

thanks!

 

Yes. You'll need to either buy some MDF baffles or make some. They are pretty darn cheap so I'd suggest buying some if you're not trying to install now. I'm not sure of the diameter of the magnet on the CK6 but you need to check before you buy the baffle to make sure it'll fit through the ring. Here's a few:


http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-MDF-SPEAKE...item415c88f13c

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NR-New-Custo...item5ae1d7a945


Also, I had to cut some of the metal for my RK6's (most do). I would just hold your MDF ring up to the door and trace the inside circle and cut that out. It's not a lot to cut...but it will free up space.

 

thanks man.

i just measured the magnet on the CK6 and it's almost 4"...so those previous links won't work, correct?

i really want to get some to me by saturday so i can install them. i'll keep looking...

**edit...looks like those links are 5" ID and 6.5" OD...so they will work yeah??**

 

Yup those will work

 

shweet! thanks!

 

how's she coming?? Make sure to take a bunch of pics!

 

^so far so good. the wooden things (baffles) <-i'm learning... came in today, they look good.

install is sunday morning bright n early. i'll be sure to take a bunch of pics before/during/after.

one thing i'm unsure of...the matrix line driver has a 3/4 pin connector that i assume is for power...correct? i just feed some wire into it and tie it in with everything else?

 

Hm. Can you load a pic? I'll look online for pic too

 

see on the far right of the matrix?

 

Yup. Looks like the same thing as my 3sixty.2. It's just unscrew to open the gap and that's where the ground/remote/power goes. I just used 16ga. wire for all of that

 

^good deal. another member confirmed that for me verbatim in a PM.

thanks!

 

already posted this in my progress thread, but figured i'd put it here too. here is what we got finished yesterday...still more to go.

ok so yesterday i met up with dave (dwb993), mike (upnout), and aaron (ohsixMTee). today was all about audio. we had a bunch of stuff to get done, and thanks to their help we accomplished quite a bit.

here are some pics from the install.

remove back seats. remove rear deck. remove stock speakers and "sub". start applying second skin damplifier w/ rubber roller.







trace out area where sub/speakers sit.











splice OEM sub harness into LOC to retain factory settings from HU.



distribution block w/ misc. wiring for sub/amp.





the toys...

JL 500/1 amp
JL 300/2 amp
JL 12w6v2 sub
1.5 cu ft. box w/ polyfill
matrix line driver amp
second skin damplifier w/ overkill
massive CK6 stage V front components
misc wiring/blocks/cap/fuses























and a few pics of our TL's invading dave's garage.

mike putting on his rear aspec lip









aaron's clean 06 MT



under the knife...



so, all in all...we got the sub/amp combo running and laid down a bunch of second skin. maybe this weekend we can finish the front components/amp.

 

How's the sub sound? Pretty loud?

 

^well, i'm going to have to play with the amp settings a bit to find a nice note. when we first had everything hooked up, it sounded great...then dave told me to "turn that shit up" and i did...and it blew a fuse on the distribution block.

we replaced it with a higher amp fuse and so far so good...but like i said, i gotta really learn how to program this amp so i can make everything perfect.

that said, things will change when we install the front components/300.2 amp.

i'm sure i'll be tweaking everything for quite a while until i'm satisfied lol...

 

Lol yeah I'd wait until your comps are in to really dial it in. You still need to have the correct (or close) settings on the sub amp so you don't end up messing anything up. Since you took the post-amp signal from the trunk, that sub signal is already crossed at 80hz (not sure of the slope of factory). Try turning the crossover on the amp all the way down (to the left) and YOU SHOULD see no change in output. When I did mine post-amp by an LOC I had my x-over at 80hz but realized it was already crossed and turned it off.....it helped with the sound (i'm guessing distortion) as it as crossing the signal twice.

Hope you're happy with those components. The tweeters were SUPER loud on the passive x-overs but I'm glad to see they have fixed the issue on these news CK6's. It's crazy that these tweeters can get soo loud but don't sound harsh at all. I haven't ever really cringed or had something that scares me when I know its coming.....you know that feeling! lol. These tweeters are so airy and clear sounding that they really sound much more expensive than they are. One of these days, I need to put the CXS tweeters in there and take some notes to see what I like/dislike about each.

 

^hmm...yeah we went post amp bc it was simple with the LOC.

BUT i still have the audiocontrol matrix line driver that will be incorporated when we do front components/amp.

will i have to remove our current harness setup in order to go pre-amp?

sorry...i'm a total audio n00b and i'm just trying to learn here.

**edit. just noticed you talking about distortion with the sub. i'm def experiencing that right now. if i have the volume all the way OFF, i can still hear the sub doing something back there lol. at first i thought it was just my exhaust...then i realized it was never that "rumbly"

 

Turn the x-over on the amp all the way down and play music. It should sound normal....


If you have the volume all the way down and you're sub is moving...wtf! You might have a short or something

 

Isn't there an active noise cancellation system on the 07+? Could that be whats causing the rumble?

 

Yeah, You're talking about the mic in the dome light. I'm not sure if that cause this but it's been know to cause interference in 07+'s. Sharks...see if you can find out how to disconnect this...I think it's a pretty easy task.

 

Right. I noticed it yesterday in the rear dome light assembly.

 

^good thinking, dave. i do remember reading something about that in the past. we'll have to check that out when we get together again and finish this thing up.

 

Yeah, Sunday is supposed to be nice, which means kids will have soccer and Sunday School, etc. Just don't think I can do anything for you.
BTW, Bruce is taking back the CF vinyl and will ship what we need. Its about time you do something for me!

 

^it's cool man. can we shoot for sunday, 10/23?

oh and that's good he took the vinyl back, i'll throw that on for you when we meet up.

 

I had the same problem initially when I did my amp/sub with the active noise cancellation. There is a microphone inside the rear "dome" lights. If you pull the plug on that mic, the noise will go away. good luck

 

thanks for that post.

where exactly is the mic in relation to the rear lights? is it easy to spot?

 

https://acurazine.com/forums/showthr...c+cancellation

Post #7


Taken from another post of that OP's (The sounds cancellation mics are the SMALL holes in the front, and the only set in the rear)

 

^ thank you sir!

 

just ran out to my car and did it. took 3 minutes. for anyone else that experiences this issue, just remove the rear dome light assembly and take out the 2 phillips head screws. the green harness you need to disconnect is on the left hand side of the dome lights.

the difference is night and day...i feel like i can finally start to hear how my sub SHOULD sound.

 

Nice. Make sure your gains aren't too high on that amp. The w6 can take 500 easy..but it's not a super clean signal either so. You doing the other stuff this weekend?

 

any idea where i should set the gains to for the time being? i honestly don't know anything about it...

dave (dwb993) has been helping me with this install and he's busy this weekend, and i'm going out of town next weekend, so i won't be finishing this up until 10/23 when were both available.

 

Generally you want to start with your gains all the way down. Put the head unit volume to about 3/4 (30 on our head unit). With a CD playing, slowly start bringing the gain on the amp up till it starts to distort then back off a bit.

 

^gotcha. so just keep all the dials turned down to the LEFT hand side on the amp itself? and then start playing with volume/gain levels?

 

IIRC The amp doesn't have a gain setting, just an input adjustment so the sound output runs even with the vocals. When I first installed everything the input adj. on the amp was pretty low and even at high volumes my sub was barely making any noise. Once you get the subwoofer matching the vocal audio then fine tune the other settings. There's really no secret way to tune a system, just play around until you find what sounds good with minimal distortion, if any. The most you can really do is to be aware and understand the amplifier settings.

I suppose you could take it to a reputable car audio dealer and ask them if they'd tune everything for a few bucks but the DIY tuning method is really just done by listening and tweekering. lol

If you want to come up this way over the weekend I'd have no problem helpin ya.

 

^thanks aaron. i'll just play with it and see what happens.

if you're free on 10/23 sunday i'm heading back up to daves (hopefully) maybe you can stop by?

 

This. If your LOC is an adjustable one, it becomes more complicated. Get a few songs that have nice bass lines and will hit with authority. Do what sddale said above for one song...then put on another song and see if it sounds distorted. If it does, back it off a little more...if not, you're likely good. Distortion is a nasty sound and doesn't sound smooth so you should hear it

 

thanks. the LOC is not adjustable, and i played around with the settings and think i found a good balance with everything. so for now, everything is alright...we'll see what happens when we install the front components.

alright the next thing i'll need to do is construct a support system for everything. i removed my spare tire a while back, so i have this big gaping hole right in the middle of my trunk which causes the carpet area to sink in when my trunk is full (annoying). i need to cut a piece of plywood to fit underneath the carpet in the trunk.

the section outlined in black is the space i want to cover. as you all know, this section of carpet/board will fold into thirds. (picture courtesy of CLtotheTL32)



i plan on putting the plywood underneath the carpet so that it can support the weight of the sub/amps/other misc stuff that i'll have in my trunk.

i was thinking i'd just measure the area and have a piece cut to size a tad bit larger than the space i want to cover...that way, it won't have any probability of caving in.

afterwards, i need to construct something like kirill1221 did to house the system. i want to build a pressure fitted board to enclose everything so you can't even tell i have a system in the car. mine won't be exactly like his, since my sub is facing the other way and it's already enclosed in it's own box...so my pressure fitted board will need to have an opening in the middle where the sub box will sit.



if anybody has any advice/ideas on how to approach either of these ideas i am all ears. thanks guys!