System complete? Anything else?
System complete? Anything else?
finally took the plunge and decided i wanted to upgrade the TL's audio.
here is what i have so far...
-JL 12w6v2 in a sealed box (1.5 cubic feet)
-JL 500/1v1 amp
-LOC
-tsunami 4awg wiring w/ rca's
-streetwires cap
do i need anything else? or am i good to go?
any particular settings i should set the amp to? any advice at all? i'm all ears!
thanks for your time!
here is what i have so far...
-JL 12w6v2 in a sealed box (1.5 cubic feet)
-JL 500/1v1 amp
-LOC
-tsunami 4awg wiring w/ rca's
-streetwires cap
do i need anything else? or am i good to go?
any particular settings i should set the amp to? any advice at all? i'm all ears!
thanks for your time!
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 26
Likes: 1
I'd ditch the cap. No need for it, especially only drawing max 500 watts, which will be rare. If I were you, I'd get some sound deadening now, since you will be removing the backseats to run the wires and deaden the rear deck. You can deaden the trunk anytime, but it's a pain to remove the backseats once, let alone put it back together and then take it apart again to try and deaden the deck lid later on.
Good luck.
Good luck.
I'd ditch the cap. No need for it, especially only drawing max 500 watts, which will be rare. If I were you, I'd get some sound deadening now, since you will be removing the backseats to run the wires and deaden the rear deck. You can deaden the trunk anytime, but it's a pain to remove the backseats once, let alone put it back together and then take it apart again to try and deaden the deck lid later on.
Good luck.
Good luck.
My PM to you said to do the front doors and a little of the trunk...you'll want to do the rear deck too. It's a rattle trap. OH!...remove the factory sub while you're back there. I wish I would have just removed my factory rears but whatever
thanks guys, appreciate the input. i have to remove my backseats anyway to put some side panels (the ones that run along the doors) back in place, so i'll just wrap the rear deck at the same time.
i've been reading some threads about diff kinds of sound deadening. (thx trunk monkey
)
you think 25sq feet of fatmat would do the job?
i've been reading some threads about diff kinds of sound deadening. (thx trunk monkey
)you think 25sq feet of fatmat would do the job?
PM'd you back. I'd go with SDS, Second Skin, Cascade or any company that acutally uses a butyl-based product that is a vibration dampener, not a mass loader. You can achieve the same results I believe....but you'll spend 3x as much b/c you have to pile on the mass loader product...hence...mass loading lol
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on another note, i ordered 20ft of second skin damplifier and 9 sq feet of overkill.
the SS rep said 20 sq. feet would be enough for the front 2 door panels, rear decklid, trunk lid, and trunk...so i went ahead and ordered it.
now i find out that 20 sq feet is nowhere near enough to do the job...idk what to do. they already shipped the stuff out.
Dogmatic Dinosaur
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,532
Likes: 74
From: Boulder, CO
Do the doors and trunk floor/sides. See what you have left over to do the rest.
You can make the trunk lid pretty quiet by taking the counterweight out and putting 4 screws on the license plate... and maybe a little deadener inbetween.
I took the stock sub out, but did not deaden the rear deck - just fixed all of the rattles. There are a lot of holes there than can let sound through.
You can make the trunk lid pretty quiet by taking the counterweight out and putting 4 screws on the license plate... and maybe a little deadener inbetween.
I took the stock sub out, but did not deaden the rear deck - just fixed all of the rattles. There are a lot of holes there than can let sound through.
Dogmatic Dinosaur
Joined: Jul 2010
Posts: 1,532
Likes: 74
From: Boulder, CO
^ Yup. You cannot miss it.
I would not deaden my trunk again... and have not on my black car. Use what you have and see if you need any more. I would do the wheel wells and use a little bit for the rattly stuff.
The deadener will help, but I don't compete and don't listen all that loudly any more, so I don't need it
My stock suspension looks lowered in the rear from the mat. The sub and box did not lower it too much. If knew how to get it back up, I would do it.
I would not deaden my trunk again... and have not on my black car. Use what you have and see if you need any more. I would do the wheel wells and use a little bit for the rattly stuff.
The deadener will help, but I don't compete and don't listen all that loudly any more, so I don't need it
My stock suspension looks lowered in the rear from the mat. The sub and box did not lower it too much. If knew how to get it back up, I would do it.
Seeing as how you didn't want to add weight...just add it to places like the doors, frame near rear seats, maybe a tad on rear deck on flat panels and see what you have left. If you'd like to order more or find you have rattles, all the spots left don't require anything but removing the trunk liner. If you didn't have enough and had to order more for the rear deck or in that area...you'd need to remove the rear seats again, etc...annoying.
I'd do doors first (duh). Then rear frame/rear deck, trunk sides and bottom near ski pass, under rear deck a little. If you have any left, do the trunk lid but take off the weight like JDA said. It'll help and is just useless weight. It's a small black bar that is very easily visible and removable when you remove the trunk lid liner. Can't miss it. 2 screws and its off.
As far as the LOC thing, no..you won't have to use the LOC. You will reach up into where the sub is and disconnect the harness for it. Cut that. Now cut one end of RCA's off. While doing this, you need to see which wire is the center (pos) and which is the outside (ground). Wire those into the subwoofer wires like any normal speaker wiring (crimp or whatever). Then you're good to go
Edit: damn...I got beat
Going off JDA's suggestion, I didn't really use much in my trunk either. I went doors, rear deck and the frame the rear seats sit on, where trunk and rear seats meet, under rear deck, then added what I had left to the trunk (maybe 4-5 CLD tiles..so like 3 sq ft).
I'd do doors first (duh). Then rear frame/rear deck, trunk sides and bottom near ski pass, under rear deck a little. If you have any left, do the trunk lid but take off the weight like JDA said. It'll help and is just useless weight. It's a small black bar that is very easily visible and removable when you remove the trunk lid liner. Can't miss it. 2 screws and its off.
As far as the LOC thing, no..you won't have to use the LOC. You will reach up into where the sub is and disconnect the harness for it. Cut that. Now cut one end of RCA's off. While doing this, you need to see which wire is the center (pos) and which is the outside (ground). Wire those into the subwoofer wires like any normal speaker wiring (crimp or whatever). Then you're good to go
Edit: damn...I got beat
Going off JDA's suggestion, I didn't really use much in my trunk either. I went doors, rear deck and the frame the rear seats sit on, where trunk and rear seats meet, under rear deck, then added what I had left to the trunk (maybe 4-5 CLD tiles..so like 3 sq ft).
Last edited by Trunk Monkey; Sep 16, 2011 at 10:45 AM.
oh, t'word? 
gotcha. i thought i might have tweek the coilovers a bit once i add this weight. thanks!
very cool. alright i'll do the front doors (seem to be a popular choice...but not sure why bc i figured most of the rattle will come from the trunk where the sub sits?), rear deck where the speakers sit, and then maybe trunk lid.
DeathMetal said he used 20 sq feet for both front doors...lol...that's all i have total! idk how i'm gonna stretch this, i don't wanna put the stuff in the wrong spot and then be mad at myself later.
trunk monkey, you put yours under the rear seats too?
^ Yup. You cannot miss it.
I would not deaden my trunk again... and have not on my black car. Use what you have and see if you need any more. I would do the wheel wells and use a little bit for the rattly stuff.
The deadener will help, but I don't compete and don't listen all that loudly any more, so I don't need it
My stock suspension looks lowered in the rear from the mat. The sub and box did not lower it too much. If knew how to get it back up, I would do it.
I would not deaden my trunk again... and have not on my black car. Use what you have and see if you need any more. I would do the wheel wells and use a little bit for the rattly stuff.
The deadener will help, but I don't compete and don't listen all that loudly any more, so I don't need it
My stock suspension looks lowered in the rear from the mat. The sub and box did not lower it too much. If knew how to get it back up, I would do it.
Seeing as how you didn't want to add weight...just add it to places like the doors, frame near rear seats, maybe a tad on rear deck on flat panels and see what you have left. If you'd like to order more or find you have rattles, all the spots left don't require anything but removing the trunk liner. If you didn't have enough and had to order more for the rear deck or in that area...you'd need to remove the rear seats again, etc...annoying.
I'd do doors first (duh). Then rear frame/rear deck, trunk sides and bottom near ski pass, under rear deck a little. If you have any left, do the trunk lid but take off the weight like JDA said. It'll help and is just useless weight. It's a small black bar that is very easily visible and removable when you remove the trunk lid liner. Can't miss it. 2 screws and its off.
As far as the LOC thing, no..you won't have to use the LOC. You will reach up into where the sub is and disconnect the harness for it. Cut that. Now cut one end of RCA's off. While doing this, you need to see which wire is the center (pos) and which is the outside (ground). Wire those into the subwoofer wires like any normal speaker wiring (crimp or whatever). Then you're good to go
Edit: damn...I got beat
Going off JDA's suggestion, I didn't really use much in my trunk either. I went doors, rear deck and the frame the rear seats sit on, where trunk and rear seats meet, under rear deck, then added what I had left to the trunk (maybe 4-5 CLD tiles..so like 3 sq ft).
I'd do doors first (duh). Then rear frame/rear deck, trunk sides and bottom near ski pass, under rear deck a little. If you have any left, do the trunk lid but take off the weight like JDA said. It'll help and is just useless weight. It's a small black bar that is very easily visible and removable when you remove the trunk lid liner. Can't miss it. 2 screws and its off.
As far as the LOC thing, no..you won't have to use the LOC. You will reach up into where the sub is and disconnect the harness for it. Cut that. Now cut one end of RCA's off. While doing this, you need to see which wire is the center (pos) and which is the outside (ground). Wire those into the subwoofer wires like any normal speaker wiring (crimp or whatever). Then you're good to go
Edit: damn...I got beat
Going off JDA's suggestion, I didn't really use much in my trunk either. I went doors, rear deck and the frame the rear seats sit on, where trunk and rear seats meet, under rear deck, then added what I had left to the trunk (maybe 4-5 CLD tiles..so like 3 sq ft).
DeathMetal said he used 20 sq feet for both front doors...lol...that's all i have total! idk how i'm gonna stretch this, i don't wanna put the stuff in the wrong spot and then be mad at myself later.
trunk monkey, you put yours under the rear seats too?
very cool. alright i'll do the front doors (seem to be a popular choice...but not sure why bc i figured most of the rattle will come from the trunk where the sub sits?), rear deck where the speakers sit, and then maybe trunk lid.
DeathMetal said he used 20 sq feet for both front doors...lol...that's all i have total! idk how i'm gonna stretch this, i don't wanna put the stuff in the wrong spot and then be mad at myself later.
trunk monkey, you put yours under the rear seats too?
DeathMetal said he used 20 sq feet for both front doors...lol...that's all i have total! idk how i'm gonna stretch this, i don't wanna put the stuff in the wrong spot and then be mad at myself later.
trunk monkey, you put yours under the rear seats too?
. Doing the doors with stockies might improve midbass/midrange response a tad but nothing too crazy. Doing the doors is because all good aftermarket speakers are much more powerful than our stock setup. They will reverberate the panels MUCH more than anything stock and that will need to be controlled or you're just loosing sound/freq. response to panel resonance. I'm sure you could pick up a cheapo amp and some sub $200 components and install those while you have the doors off. You're going to need that Matrix or Processor though so count on another $400 probably for all of that. Maybe later?....ok fine. lol
Also, I'm not sure what Death Metal used but Don from SDS found that you really only need to cover the flat parts of panels as panels with raised edges, etc wont reverberate...or wont nearly as much. It doesn't hurt anything but you're wallet and curb weight to do it all...but why do it ya know. I didn't put any under the rear seats as there's already something under there. I didn't get rattle from the seats themselves, mainly from the deck and parts of where the trunk/ski-pass opening came into contact with the rear seat frame(s). I don't have any vibrations in the car anymore. It's amazing. Like I said, I only got 28 CLD tiles that are 6"x10" so probably only like 20sq ft but the MLV/CCF made up for it in the doors. My doors feel like rock now. Not sure when but I'll be removing my panels to re-fit them and play with the ID CXS mids soon. I'll take some pics if it's really soon so you can see kinda how to go about it. Not sure when though as this Oklahoma weather is being weird as hell lately!! We've had over 2 months of 100+ degree heat and for the last few days it's been 55 or below and raining lol. WTF
In your case, doing the doors is more of a future upgrade as I guarantee you'll be back for speakers lol. . Doing the doors with stockies might improve midbass/midrange response a tad but nothing too crazy. Doing the doors is because all good aftermarket speakers are much more powerful than our stock setup. They will reverberate the panels MUCH more than anything stock and that will need to be controlled or you're just loosing sound/freq. response to panel resonance.
I'm sure you could pick up a cheapo amp and some sub $200 components and install those while you have the doors off. You're going to need that Matrix or Processor though so count on another $400 probably for all of that. Maybe later?....ok fine. lol
Also, I'm not sure what Death Metal used but Don from SDS found that you really only need to cover the flat parts of panels as panels with raised edges, etc wont reverberate...or wont nearly as much. It doesn't hurt anything but you're wallet and curb weight to do it all...but why do it ya know. I didn't put any under the rear seats as there's already something under there. I didn't get rattle from the seats themselves, mainly from the deck and parts of where the trunk/ski-pass opening came into contact with the rear seat frame(s). I don't have any vibrations in the car anymore. It's amazing. Like I said, I only got 28 CLD tiles that are 6"x10" so probably only like 20sq ft but the MLV/CCF made up for it in the doors. My doors feel like rock now. Not sure when but I'll be removing my panels to re-fit them and play with the ID CXS mids soon. I'll take some pics if it's really soon so you can see kinda how to go about it. Not sure when though as this Oklahoma weather is being weird as hell lately!! We've had over 2 months of 100+ degree heat and for the last few days it's been 55 or below and raining lol. WTF
. Doing the doors with stockies might improve midbass/midrange response a tad but nothing too crazy. Doing the doors is because all good aftermarket speakers are much more powerful than our stock setup. They will reverberate the panels MUCH more than anything stock and that will need to be controlled or you're just loosing sound/freq. response to panel resonance. I'm sure you could pick up a cheapo amp and some sub $200 components and install those while you have the doors off. You're going to need that Matrix or Processor though so count on another $400 probably for all of that. Maybe later?....ok fine. lol
Also, I'm not sure what Death Metal used but Don from SDS found that you really only need to cover the flat parts of panels as panels with raised edges, etc wont reverberate...or wont nearly as much. It doesn't hurt anything but you're wallet and curb weight to do it all...but why do it ya know. I didn't put any under the rear seats as there's already something under there. I didn't get rattle from the seats themselves, mainly from the deck and parts of where the trunk/ski-pass opening came into contact with the rear seat frame(s). I don't have any vibrations in the car anymore. It's amazing. Like I said, I only got 28 CLD tiles that are 6"x10" so probably only like 20sq ft but the MLV/CCF made up for it in the doors. My doors feel like rock now. Not sure when but I'll be removing my panels to re-fit them and play with the ID CXS mids soon. I'll take some pics if it's really soon so you can see kinda how to go about it. Not sure when though as this Oklahoma weather is being weird as hell lately!! We've had over 2 months of 100+ degree heat and for the last few days it's been 55 or below and raining lol. WTF
...you'll be getting many a PM from me!thanks for the explanation too...lay the stuff all over the flat areas. got it. i found DM's build thread and printed out pics n whatnot...but i'm always trying to see more pics of how other people did it too.
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 20,172
Likes: 1,818
From: Bakersfield
I didn't realize in our PMs that you were still running the stock fronts. Throw a little mat near the speaker, plug up the holes, and call it a day.
How much you need in the trunk will be partially determined by which way you face the W6. If it's right behind the seat facing forward you won't need a whole lot in the trunk. If you face it to the rear you'll need a bit more.
How much you need in the trunk will be partially determined by which way you face the W6. If it's right behind the seat facing forward you won't need a whole lot in the trunk. If you face it to the rear you'll need a bit more.
alright i'm back...this time, for speakers and an amp.i want to keep it in the JL family for the amp. if i'm only doing the front 2 speakers i only need a 2channel amp correct? any suggestions on which one?
also, any suggestions on front speakers? <-n00b
i'm gonna pick up that matrix amp you talked about as well.
I didn't realize in our PMs that you were still running the stock fronts. Throw a little mat near the speaker, plug up the holes, and call it a day.
How much you need in the trunk will be partially determined by which way you face the W6. If it's right behind the seat facing forward you won't need a whole lot in the trunk. If you face it to the rear you'll need a bit more.
How much you need in the trunk will be partially determined by which way you face the W6. If it's right behind the seat facing forward you won't need a whole lot in the trunk. If you face it to the rear you'll need a bit more.
if i need more second skin, i guess i'll just order it.
speakers i want to keep below $250.
i've been looking at some JL 300/2 amps...so i would need speakers that are decent enough for that amp.
would the 300/2 be a good choice btw?
Hybrid Audio Imagine
Hertz HSK (used)
Massive CK6 Stage V (supposedly very good mids and the tweets are fixed w/ the new passive x-over)
Focal (likely used)
Image Dynamics CTX or CXS
Just a few for starers. As far as amps, I really like my MB q4.150 for the price and power point.
Hertz HSK (used)
Massive CK6 Stage V (supposedly very good mids and the tweets are fixed w/ the new passive x-over)
Focal (likely used)
Image Dynamics CTX or CXS
Just a few for starers. As far as amps, I really like my MB q4.150 for the price and power point.
ID CTX is nice!!!
lots of people use focal as well, a guy just finished his setup using almost the same stuff that you have JL subs, and JL amps. I'll see if he wrote a review on it yet.
I was thinking about that as well, just upgrading the 2 front speakers and not worrying about the back and just running a 2 ch instead of 4 ch.
lots of people use focal as well, a guy just finished his setup using almost the same stuff that you have JL subs, and JL amps. I'll see if he wrote a review on it yet.
I was thinking about that as well, just upgrading the 2 front speakers and not worrying about the back and just running a 2 ch instead of 4 ch.
thanks for all the suggestions guys.
i bought a set of massive CK6 stage V's last night. i read/heard some pretty good things about them. also bought an audiocontrol matrix amp.
now i just need to locate a JL 300/2 and im set. unless you guys think there is a better JL amp for these components?
i bought a set of massive CK6 stage V's last night. i read/heard some pretty good things about them. also bought an audiocontrol matrix amp.
now i just need to locate a JL 300/2 and im set. unless you guys think there is a better JL amp for these components?
price list
-JL12w6 sub $225 shipped (used, DIYMA)
-sealed box w/ polyfill $75 shipped (new, sonicelectronix)
-JL 500/1 amp w/ wiring,LOC,cap $180 picked up (used)
-audiocontrol matrix line driver $80 shipped (used)
-massive CK6 stage V's $160 shipped (new, eBay)
-JL 300/2 amp $150 shipped (used, DIYMA)
-second skin damplifier 20 sq. feet/9 sq. feet overkill $80 shipped (new, SS)
TOTAL $950.00 + misc. wiring i'll probably need so let's call it $1k.
Last edited by SharksBreath; Sep 21, 2011 at 10:19 AM.
Speaker wire to go from your amp to the speakers...in your case, to the crossover. You will need:
Distro block for power wire
More large gauge (0-4ga) wire for the 2 wires after distro block
Speaker wire from 300/2 to x-over's
Speaker wire from x-over's to mids and tweets
Distro block for power wire
More large gauge (0-4ga) wire for the 2 wires after distro block
Speaker wire from 300/2 to x-over's
Speaker wire from x-over's to mids and tweets
Come pick up your shit. lol
True, I was back and forth via email with JL tech about this and they said it does absolutely no harm to use a quality LOC. But you're right, you could do it that way if you wanted to.
The LOC surely didn't negatively affect the sound quality when I had this system installed, you would have thought it was getting a proper pre amp signal.
I saw someone mentioned about the wiring, all the 4 gauge wiring already has crimps installed, nothing related to the main power/ground was cut/hacked when I removed it. This will of course make it easier.
Capacitors are a touchy subject, many think they're a waste of money, others think they're godly creations. Personally I like how they regulate voltage and keep one constant level passed through. As you know when the car idles/accels/compressor kicks on/lights on/hvac on, etc. the voltage level changes and you want the healthiest voltage to be delivered.
Many also say that 500 RMS doesn't warrant the need for a capacitor, I beg to differ.
I installed a 500.1 Alpine amp pushing 2 Rockford P2D210's in my wife's car and you should've seen the light show prior to adding a capacitor, huge difference. Granted my wife's car is an 07 Cobalt with a tiny alternator but the previous statement still applies.
Honestly though there is no right or wrong answer, it will not hurt anything and you might even find it keeps your electronics going strong when under heavy load.
Opinions on capacitors are like opinions on oil types or which spark plug is better.
Just thought I'd add my .02. I am by no means a car stereo mastermind but I know enough to get the job done.
When you pick the things up from me I'll go over all the technical filters and settings on the amplifier.
If you google "JL 500/1v1 settings" you'll run across a few links that will explain in depth what the amplifier is capable of. I've run quite a few low and mid grade amplifiers in the past and as far as clarity and accuracy goes the JL takes the cake.
I'll search around when I have free time this weekend for the links, wish I wouldn't have deleted the bookmarks from my browser.
lolI saw someone mentioned about the wiring, all the 4 gauge wiring already has crimps installed, nothing related to the main power/ground was cut/hacked when I removed it. This will of course make it easier.
Capacitors are a touchy subject, many think they're a waste of money, others think they're godly creations. Personally I like how they regulate voltage and keep one constant level passed through. As you know when the car idles/accels/compressor kicks on/lights on/hvac on, etc. the voltage level changes and you want the healthiest voltage to be delivered.
Many also say that 500 RMS doesn't warrant the need for a capacitor, I beg to differ.
I installed a 500.1 Alpine amp pushing 2 Rockford P2D210's in my wife's car and you should've seen the light show prior to adding a capacitor, huge difference. Granted my wife's car is an 07 Cobalt with a tiny alternator but the previous statement still applies.
Honestly though there is no right or wrong answer, it will not hurt anything and you might even find it keeps your electronics going strong when under heavy load.
Opinions on capacitors are like opinions on oil types or which spark plug is better.
Just thought I'd add my .02. I am by no means a car stereo mastermind but I know enough to get the job done.
When you pick the things up from me I'll go over all the technical filters and settings on the amplifier.
If you google "JL 500/1v1 settings" you'll run across a few links that will explain in depth what the amplifier is capable of. I've run quite a few low and mid grade amplifiers in the past and as far as clarity and accuracy goes the JL takes the cake.
I'll search around when I have free time this weekend for the links, wish I wouldn't have deleted the bookmarks from my browser.
Last edited by ohsixMTee; Sep 22, 2011 at 12:50 AM.
^thanks for the input, aaron.
i'll see you bright n early sunday 10/2.
**on another note, the audiocontrol matrix line driver amp sale fell through...
...does anybody have one for sale? if so, PM me please. thanks!**
i'll see you bright n early sunday 10/2.
**on another note, the audiocontrol matrix line driver amp sale fell through...
...does anybody have one for sale? if so, PM me please. thanks!**
sorry to double up on posts, but i had a question about the matrix line driver.
what sort of wiring will i need? whats the best way to hook up the matrix and what do i need? rca's, etc?
thanks guys!
what sort of wiring will i need? whats the best way to hook up the matrix and what do i need? rca's, etc?
thanks guys!
No problem, you should always know what you're buying and I just like to provide as much information in regards to what I'm selling when I sell things.
Here's the manual for the amplifier: http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/Slash_amps/500_1_MAN.pdf
Just a tip, I used an independent remote wire. The amp has signal sensing turn on but when I tried to use that the amp just wouldn't stay on. I think it has to do with using a LOC instead of a more powerful preamp output.
Here's everything you need to know about all the different settings:
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/Switches_Knobs.pdf
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/tutorials/...ametric_EQ.pdf
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/gainSetting.pdf
This may be useful as well:
http://www.myg37.com/forums/2580467-post6.html
When you come to pick up the items we can go to a nearby stereo shop and get the additional 4 gauge wiring/crimp rings and RCAs for your additional amp. I would just hop on ebay and purchase a spool of 16 gauge or so wire for the remote turn on, I'd go with 12 feet to be safe. There will be a lot left over but you won't have to worry about not having enough. You can pick up the Tsunami RCA's on ebay as well pretty cheap so you might want to go that route, being that my amp has preouts you'd probably need about 6 ft to be safe. You can also buy 4 gauge wire on ebay by the foot, if you go that route just get two different colors so you can distinguish power/ground. I would purchase probably 7 feet or so of each so that you have plenty of mounting options for your distribution block.
Here's the manual for the amplifier: http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/Slash_amps/500_1_MAN.pdf
Just a tip, I used an independent remote wire. The amp has signal sensing turn on but when I tried to use that the amp just wouldn't stay on. I think it has to do with using a LOC instead of a more powerful preamp output.
Here's everything you need to know about all the different settings:
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/Switches_Knobs.pdf
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/tutorials/...ametric_EQ.pdf
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/gainSetting.pdf
This may be useful as well:
http://www.myg37.com/forums/2580467-post6.html
When you come to pick up the items we can go to a nearby stereo shop and get the additional 4 gauge wiring/crimp rings and RCAs for your additional amp. I would just hop on ebay and purchase a spool of 16 gauge or so wire for the remote turn on, I'd go with 12 feet to be safe. There will be a lot left over but you won't have to worry about not having enough. You can pick up the Tsunami RCA's on ebay as well pretty cheap so you might want to go that route, being that my amp has preouts you'd probably need about 6 ft to be safe. You can also buy 4 gauge wire on ebay by the foot, if you go that route just get two different colors so you can distinguish power/ground. I would purchase probably 7 feet or so of each so that you have plenty of mounting options for your distribution block.
Last edited by ohsixMTee; Sep 22, 2011 at 12:05 PM.
^thanks for the gobs of information, aaron. i have some reading to do...
i found an audiocontrol matrix line driver yesterday, so that's taken care of. should get to me by tuesday.
JL12w6/box/second skin was all delivered yesterday.
massive CK6's should be here saturday, and jl 300/2 should be here tuesday.
first day of installation is set for 10/2...thanks for all the help guys. i'm sure i'll have more ?'s before/during the install.
i found an audiocontrol matrix line driver yesterday, so that's taken care of. should get to me by tuesday.
JL12w6/box/second skin was all delivered yesterday.
massive CK6's should be here saturday, and jl 300/2 should be here tuesday.
first day of installation is set for 10/2...thanks for all the help guys. i'm sure i'll have more ?'s before/during the install.
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Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 80
Likes: 3
From: Connecticut
Im running an identical Sub setup to you. In regards to the LOC, I would leave that out and tap the signal into the pre-amp sub wires. With the slash series amps its not necessary but I did it before I had a Slash so its there to stay. That way you get a low level input. In terms of the Capacitor, I would also leave that out because Slash amps are already pre-capacitated internally thanks to their RIPPS (?) system, which allows them to maintain wattage regardless (for the most part) of resistance. Its a 500w amp so it won't draw too much power.