Just finished rewiring it. Didn't notice a bit of difference.

 

Are you only able to control the subwoofer level through the amp or is there anyway to make it work through the navi unit like it does with the stock system, or does that just require wiring through the wires for the stock sub?

Sorry for all the questions just want to make sure I have no complications.
Just awaiting an amp right now

 

Yes. You can pull the sub signal from the head unit going into the stock amp. You can still use the sub control in the navi system.

 

ok perfect.
just waiting to find the right amp.

 

Of Course you didn't, you're tuned @ 45+ hz and are likely running out of xmax/power at anything less

 

 

For fucks sake...not everyone is a 25 year old punk ass kid entering a db competition. My life is not defined by how custom my sound system is. If you don't have anything constructive to add then go suck on your mammas tit little boys.

 

Chill out, Geezer.

I don't compete, btw.

My setup is sQ

 

The important thing when it comes to sq in subs is to have the right enclosure for the sub. Manufacturers generally know what that is but like others have mentioned a little bigger MAY be better, or it may just get sloppy.

 

Dude! you need to chill!
my system is what most would consider "minor" custom. its invisible.
Its just good quality appropriate equipment that integrates well with the OEM headunit and its intricacies.

Thats the direction you should go no matter what your goal. SQ or SPL

You just need to understand that the sub upgrade that you are touting is compromised from the beginning by not having the material to play. The sub signal pre amp is cut in the HU. The only full range signal from the HU is FL + FR.

 

Congrats on the size of your balls. Judging by your picture, Mr. Urkle, they must be a little large for the size of your body. It is amazing that having a keyboard in front of some people will make them powerful enough to say things that could insult people that are only 8 years older and outweigh them by at least 85 lbs. I hope for your sake you chose to use your elementary picture........

You really ought to choose your words a little more carefully when dealing with someone you don't know....a lesson you will more than likely learn soon.

 

Now THAT is good info there!! In all my searching I have not read that anywhere. This sub/box setup is tuned to 26+Htz (unlike the 49 Htz mentioned by other members in earlier posts). When I have time in the future, I may try robbing the signal from the FL and FR for the sub input. I really hate to loose the separate sub control of the HU. It honestly sounds like i have full frequency range here though. I don't notice the system struggling until the 15Htz range. This is my wife's daily driver, and I honestly don't think she will need more range than that....

 

Thats why its best to choose an amp with remote gain control capability so that you can have sub control.

Once again! you need to chill! it was you that started hurling insults!

Eggy just provided a completely appropriate emoticon.

 

That's rapper Earl Sweatshirt, though.

 

Wacker, don't lose your head. Everyone in this thread are good guys, even Eggy lol.

No noise issues when going post amp for the subs. You only get noise when going post amp for the mids and highs.

As for signal getting cut, I don't know about that. I've played 15hz test tones and had plenty of excursion when going post amp. My rears were also full range and in fact seemed to have a bit of a boost in the upper frequencies when compared to the front post amp. The '04 and maybe '05 used the rears only as fill and not full range while the rest of the years were full range.

There are some older threads where someone actually used an o-scope to see exactly what the factory amp did to the signal.

As for range, it's important for SQ. Many people don't care about a system that's flat down to 20hz because they've never heard a system capable of that but it does make a difference. IMO, it sounds much better being able to hit any note it's asked to play. Or to take it one step farther, a system capable of infrasonics can make certain music so much more realistic. Of course it takes a lot of cone area to do it.

 

I re-wired and pulled signal pre-amp. I wired in RCA jacks last night. Not a bit of sound quality diff going pre or post-amp IMHO. I also have resonance in the 15hz range, but 20+hz seems to be the sweet spot. Mine is an 06 so maybe that is the difference. I was beginning to think that the sound filtering was a bunch of bunk!!

 

My sub is post amp and I am very pleased with sound quality. 07 base, non navi

 

Chill out dude. Might want to read this...

http://www.pasmag.com/car-audio/repo...stem?showall=1

 

In reference to sinals being cut, others have tested as well, and this is what I have been going on, Although it was always my intent to only use the FL and FR in any case.

 

I used a loc spliced in from the subwoofer wires and it sounds pretty good until i change my factory speakers and add my other JL 300/4 amp

 

"Polk Audio’s DXi112 Subwoofer system is made for any enthusiast who wants big bass, great style and a quality product without breaking the bank."

Knee slap.

On the bright side, the box is tuned to 38hz. Port area is tiny i bet, but he should be rolling off in the low 30s..

Would still sound like ass...in my not so humble opinion.

 

I have been considering this as a possible issue to amping my stock speakers. they must be crazy sensitive and at 65watts/channel I wonder if my single 10" on 500W will be enough.... probably if I pulled the signal from the FL and FR.

Wish I had more time to tinker but I do enjoy the system stock except for a good sub in a good enclosure. (I found that integrating the sub with the system is really dependent on having the right enclosure for the sub.) Sounds like I have tower speakers at the front of my car.