Subwoofer Controls
Subwoofer Controls
I want to put in one 12 inch woofer in the trunk, but i was wondering...
can I control the subwoofer through the headunit or not?
my guess is no...
i am weary of installing an 8 inch in the stock location...
also, how is the sound quality from the stock headunit(i have navi so dont wana go aftermarket) ?
can I control the subwoofer through the headunit or not?
my guess is no...
i am weary of installing an 8 inch in the stock location...
also, how is the sound quality from the stock headunit(i have navi so dont wana go aftermarket) ?
stock unit is pretty good, and you can't really install and after market one unless you have custom work done. You can control some of the sub from the factory HU via the subwoofer control if you use that signal.
Search is your friend....
Yes, you can control your aftermarket subs from the stock HU sub control. Take the factory sub out, tap the lines that went to it for your new amp, and you can control it using the factory setup.
Yes, you can control your aftermarket subs from the stock HU sub control. Take the factory sub out, tap the lines that went to it for your new amp, and you can control it using the factory setup.
HELP!!!! need to choose an amp for my sub
i have an alpine type-r sub(500w RMS) and i have heard they are great...i got it from a friend(new) who lost a bet...
now i need to get an amp that is powerful enough...i have two that i found that i think can get the job done...
kenwood KAC-8104D (about 115 shipped)
1000W peak output @ 4 ohms, bridged
500W peak output @ 2 ohms
300W peak output @ 4 ohms
500W RMS (continuous) x 1 @ 2 ohms
300W RMS (continuous) x 1 @ 2 ohms
Adjustable 50-200Hz low-pass crossover
40Hz bass boost circuit (+18 dB, variable)
Cooling fan for improved performance
Blue illumination
OR...
MTX X500D(about 150-160 shipped)
X Thunder Series Class D Monoblock Car Amplifier
RMS Power Rating:
4 ohms: 300 watts x 1 chan.
2 ohms: 500 watts x 1 chan.
Max power output: 1000 watts x 1 chan.
Wired remote bass level control included
LED power and protection indicators
Tuned Bass EQ (0-12 dB bass boost at 40 Hz)
Custom MTX end panels
Anodized finish
Chrome X Thunder badge
Speaker-level inputs
Power, balance, overload, and underload protection circuitry
Heavy duty aluminum heat sinks for extreme heat dissipation
Variable low-pass filter (40-200 Hz, 24 dB/octave)
Subsonic Filter (20-50 Hz, 12 dB/octave)
CEA-2006 compliant amplifier
Frequency response: 20-200 Hz
Both are MONO amps...
do i need a separate 4 channel amp to go with the stock speakers?
i dont believe i do...
i am just adding a sub and i will have them disconnect and remove the stock sub...
will that screw anything up? do i need to leave it?
now i need to get an amp that is powerful enough...i have two that i found that i think can get the job done...
kenwood KAC-8104D (about 115 shipped)
1000W peak output @ 4 ohms, bridged
500W peak output @ 2 ohms
300W peak output @ 4 ohms
500W RMS (continuous) x 1 @ 2 ohms
300W RMS (continuous) x 1 @ 2 ohms
Adjustable 50-200Hz low-pass crossover
40Hz bass boost circuit (+18 dB, variable)
Cooling fan for improved performance
Blue illumination
OR...
MTX X500D(about 150-160 shipped)
X Thunder Series Class D Monoblock Car Amplifier
RMS Power Rating:
4 ohms: 300 watts x 1 chan.
2 ohms: 500 watts x 1 chan.
Max power output: 1000 watts x 1 chan.
Wired remote bass level control included
LED power and protection indicators
Tuned Bass EQ (0-12 dB bass boost at 40 Hz)
Custom MTX end panels
Anodized finish
Chrome X Thunder badge
Speaker-level inputs
Power, balance, overload, and underload protection circuitry
Heavy duty aluminum heat sinks for extreme heat dissipation
Variable low-pass filter (40-200 Hz, 24 dB/octave)
Subsonic Filter (20-50 Hz, 12 dB/octave)
CEA-2006 compliant amplifier
Frequency response: 20-200 Hz
Both are MONO amps...
do i need a separate 4 channel amp to go with the stock speakers?
i dont believe i do...
i am just adding a sub and i will have them disconnect and remove the stock sub...
will that screw anything up? do i need to leave it?
Just about a week ago I put an Alpine type-R 15 in my trunk with an Alpine PDX 600.1 amp running off of the stock subwoofer outs.
I have full control of the sub setup with the factory unit's control. My installer simply disconnected the stock 8, left it in place and ran his LOC off of those wires.
I've got a personal preference for Alpine obviously but I'd suggest that you seek out some audiophile forums or bass heads that may know more.
One thing I do know for certain is that you get what you pay for.
I have full control of the sub setup with the factory unit's control. My installer simply disconnected the stock 8, left it in place and ran his LOC off of those wires.
I've got a personal preference for Alpine obviously but I'd suggest that you seek out some audiophile forums or bass heads that may know more.
One thing I do know for certain is that you get what you pay for.
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Originally Posted by 07WDP
Just about a week ago I put an Alpine type-R 15 in my trunk with an Alpine PDX 600.1 amp running off of the stock subwoofer outs.
Maybe you can help me with this? I just bought a PDX 1.600 as well and I'm looking at the output on my sound processor and the input on the amp. From the pic below you can see a single RCA out from the audio processor's sub output, but the amp has 2 input RCA ports. How do I hook this up?
Are you just upgrading the sub and keeping everything else stock? Are you using the amp just to power the sub?
The stock hu is great IF you have something to flatten/process the signal between the hu and amp. I have HU > BTL > Amp w/ built in eq. I also have an independent sound control to tweak the sub volume as needed.
The stock hu is great IF you have something to flatten/process the signal between the hu and amp. I have HU > BTL > Amp w/ built in eq. I also have an independent sound control to tweak the sub volume as needed.
Well, I have Zapco amps (zapco dot com) which are a little unique. I have a balanced line transmitter after the hu. The amp has built in digital processing that is controlled via usb to laptop...
I've heard others using a rockford 360.2, search the forum, I think all reviews have been good...
I've heard others using a rockford 360.2, search the forum, I think all reviews have been good...
Originally Posted by ChicoOG
I've heard others using a rockford 360.2, search the forum, I think all reviews have been good...
Bought a Spliiter
I ended up going with a splitter. I spoke to my local audio salesman about it and he recommended splitting the signal and connecting to BOTH inputs on the amp. For documentation purposes, here's a link to what I bought.
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...IYF+2F-1M.html
http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...IYF+2F-1M.html
i had my friend help me with the install and we hooked everything up
i disconected the active noise cancellation mic in the back and everything sounds great...
i love it, the type r hits nice and clean and it doesnt over power the stock speakers...
i can also control the sub via the stock headunit...ran the stock sub control to the amp...
i disconected the active noise cancellation mic in the back and everything sounds great...
i love it, the type r hits nice and clean and it doesnt over power the stock speakers...
i can also control the sub via the stock headunit...ran the stock sub control to the amp...
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