I am adding a 12 kicker cvr sub and a planet audio 850 watt. What is the best setup for the stock sub? Remove it or just unplug it or just run it with my new sub? What is everyones opinion? Also where is everyone mounting the LOC in the trunk

 

i wanna know also???????

 

most ppl remove the stock sub. this exposes a positive and negative wire. Then wire the LOC to these wires in the stock sub's location.
the LOC will provide an RCA connection to connect to the amp.
Most people do it this way, so that they have factory headunit control of the aftermarket sub. this is also the easiest way.

 

The line output converter on the stock sub wire is a good way to go. The control is very nice from the headunit as mentioned above.

You can leave the stock sub in the car unplugged. If you remove it, you expose a hole where more sound can get from your trunk to the interior of the car.

You can access the plug if you take the upper trunk liner off. To take the sub out, you need to remove the rear seats, a-pillar trim and the deck lid.

The gold(yellow)/black wire is the positive on the connector.

 

Do I need to hook up the ground on the loc? So removing the stock sub would be better. It would act kind like a port right.

 

correct. the sub opening acts as a port.



no you dont need the ground

 

Ok thanks for the input!

 

What do you use as your 'remote' signal for the aftermarket amp?

 

Keep in mind also that removing stock sub that reduces the structural integrity of rear deck so if you don't dynamat the who deck, it will rattle to all hell.

 

Good to know. I haven't dug into the rear deck but I wonder if some braces could be fabbed up to provide the support that you lose from removing the sub itself.

 

you use an add a fuse and tap into fuse #32.

 

svttec I bought a add a fuse at the auto store for like 5 bucks I'm gonna tap into the accessory fuse! Thanks for the heads up on the rear deck parasurfer not being stable I didn't think of that. I will have to mod something up to sturdy it!

 

I also dont think that the integrity of the board is lost.
many have done this without any problems

 

Thanks justnspace you've been a big help. I've bookmarked this thread for future reference. You've just barely come short of doing the install for me at this point.

 

No prob.


re-reading what para(Desmond) said, the sub board or rear deck produces rattles to begin with. I would suggest like Desmond and dynomat that sucker up. OR felt.

 

You can also buy LOCs that have remote turn on capability... no idea how they work though.

 

I've got a PAC sni-35 LOC that seems to work pretty well for me. I'm not sure if it uses an add a fuse though. I left my sub in and just unplugged it. My LOC is hidden behind the kick panel where the stock amp is.

 

My accessory fuse #32 has a 7.5 amp fuse. What size fuse should I put in the other slot of the add a fuse? F

 

7.5 would be fine. Even a 5 would work.