Should I go for it?
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
From: Goldsboro, NC
Should I go for it?
Found this listed and was wondering if it would be worth the investment. I want bass in my TL and I do not have a ton of cash. Should I save and get better new stuff or will this get me by for awhile?
forsale a 1400watts boss subwoofer with box almost new just dont need it with a 600 watt kenwood amp asking 60
forsale a 1400watts boss subwoofer with box almost new just dont need it with a 600 watt kenwood amp asking 60
Found this listed and was wondering if it would be worth the investment. I want bass in my TL and I do not have a ton of cash. Should I save and get better new stuff or will this get me by for awhile?
forsale a 1400watts boss subwoofer with box almost new just dont need it with a 600 watt kenwood amp asking 60
forsale a 1400watts boss subwoofer with box almost new just dont need it with a 600 watt kenwood amp asking 60
lol...no
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 750
Likes: 69
I would like to take this opportunity to point out that when you buy a sub/amp combo, the important thing is to make sure the sub/amp wattage is in sync with each other. Now, in the above example of what you were looking at (1400 watt boss / 600 watt kenwood), who knows. The reason is both of those are peak ratings, implemented by a clever marketing person to impress people.
You need to look at RMS ratings of both products and the sensitivity of the sub and the fuses of the amp. This tells you what you need to know. If the amp is a dirt cheap brand advertising a 1500 watt amp and it has a 30amp fuse in it......ummmm....no. You are probably getting a max of 200-250 watts. An old trick is to take the fuse rating of the amp x10 for the total wattage output. With class D, you would get a little more (maybe x15).
As far as the sub, look at the sensitivity of it. If they are the same size sub, one rated at 89dB and the other 86dB (this by no way indicates out loud the sub can/will get) but what it does indicate is how much power you would need to get the sub moving - how stuff the suspension is, etc. FWIW, you CAN underpower and overpower a sub (or any speaker for that matter) without damage as long as you are send the speaker clean power and not trying to max it out all the time.
The last thing to keep in mind is the box type you will be using in relation to the power requirements of the sub/amp. Meaning, in a sealed enclosure, you can ramp it up to the max rms rating without problems. With a ported, it will need less power than sealed to max the sub out / get the sub moving and if you do IB, you would need even less power.
My $.02
You need to look at RMS ratings of both products and the sensitivity of the sub and the fuses of the amp. This tells you what you need to know. If the amp is a dirt cheap brand advertising a 1500 watt amp and it has a 30amp fuse in it......ummmm....no. You are probably getting a max of 200-250 watts. An old trick is to take the fuse rating of the amp x10 for the total wattage output. With class D, you would get a little more (maybe x15).
As far as the sub, look at the sensitivity of it. If they are the same size sub, one rated at 89dB and the other 86dB (this by no way indicates out loud the sub can/will get) but what it does indicate is how much power you would need to get the sub moving - how stuff the suspension is, etc. FWIW, you CAN underpower and overpower a sub (or any speaker for that matter) without damage as long as you are send the speaker clean power and not trying to max it out all the time.
The last thing to keep in mind is the box type you will be using in relation to the power requirements of the sub/amp. Meaning, in a sealed enclosure, you can ramp it up to the max rms rating without problems. With a ported, it will need less power than sealed to max the sub out / get the sub moving and if you do IB, you would need even less power.
My $.02