remote start install in chicago area
#1
remote start install in chicago area
Hi all, I think this is my first post here. I'm the original owner of my 2004 TL/nav/auto and finally time to get a remote starter. Never got one before because every time I went to ABT to get a remote start, they keep telling me I need to give up a key. Well I know I don't have to as the immobilizers have been available, but apparently they don't use them. So I'm half tempted to do this myself, just don't have the time to figure it all out. reading on the forum, seems like data is available for those that want to do it themselves, but I'm going to check one more time if there is a good other option that will do a good job before I commit to losing two days to install it myself. Any recommendations? I'm in NW suburbs.
#2
8th Gear
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Chicago
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FWIT - Not in the NW burbs, but if your ever down on the southside there is a place by 87th and California called Midwest Auto Alarm (or something like that)... Haven't brought my Acura to them, but they did my 03 Monte Carlo and I have no complaints. Good service, smart guys.
#3
Safety Car
iTrader: (1)
I install remote starters on the side, i have the Compustar in my TL ...
Don't know of any certified shops off the top of my head that would do a good job (not to say that there aren't any, I just am not familiar with the NW area). I live in Chicago myself. I'd be happy to help you over the phone, email, via Azine if you try this yourself. For a first time installer, it's a 2 day project for sure, just to make sure you're doing everything right.
You don't have to give up a key: You need to purchase a couple extra modules in addition to your remote starter/alarm...
1) Can-SL2 module ($50.00) == to access lock/unlock/trunk/defroster/alarm/etc
2) Honda-SL3 ($50.00) == immobilizer bypass unit (so you don't have to give up a key)
www.bulldogsecurity.com will give you all your basic wiring
If abt still uses the "key in the box" method of bypassing the immobilizer, it truly speaks to their skill level, knowledge base... not a very reliable method of bypassing the immobilizer particularly in the cold.
Lemme know what you decide, happy to help.
Don't know of any certified shops off the top of my head that would do a good job (not to say that there aren't any, I just am not familiar with the NW area). I live in Chicago myself. I'd be happy to help you over the phone, email, via Azine if you try this yourself. For a first time installer, it's a 2 day project for sure, just to make sure you're doing everything right.
You don't have to give up a key: You need to purchase a couple extra modules in addition to your remote starter/alarm...
1) Can-SL2 module ($50.00) == to access lock/unlock/trunk/defroster/alarm/etc
2) Honda-SL3 ($50.00) == immobilizer bypass unit (so you don't have to give up a key)
www.bulldogsecurity.com will give you all your basic wiring
If abt still uses the "key in the box" method of bypassing the immobilizer, it truly speaks to their skill level, knowledge base... not a very reliable method of bypassing the immobilizer particularly in the cold.
Lemme know what you decide, happy to help.
#4
Thanks Peter, I'm not afraid of trying it, did put in an alarm a few years back on a camaro i had. I was mainly concerned with the security and all that stuff and not cutting the wrong wires. For the parts that I need, I've seen the SL2 and SL3 advertised from different people, is any one brand better than others? Also, Compustar system I haven't heard much of them, reading on the board here, looks like there is some popularity with them. Doing a quick scan on google, found this, http://www.cartronixplus.com/templat...Complete%20Kit is that a decent model or are there other online places i can find these?
Thanks again for the help.
Thanks again for the help.
#6
Safety Car
iTrader: (1)
I would stick with the most reliable and time tested:
Any DEI product (i.e. Viper) and Compustar. Period.
Use the CAN-SL2 and the Honda-SL3, period.
You'll be fine... the CAN and the Honda takes care of all the security issues, it's a painless install -- i've done much worse (i.e. chrysler products, yuck!)
Any DEI product (i.e. Viper) and Compustar. Period.
Use the CAN-SL2 and the Honda-SL3, period.
You'll be fine... the CAN and the Honda takes care of all the security issues, it's a painless install -- i've done much worse (i.e. chrysler products, yuck!)
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#8
Showtime Audio in Chicago, its on North Ave in Lincoln Park.They are midwests version of the WCC shop. From ford tempos to Lambos they do it all
I got a viper 5701 for xmas and bestbuy wanted an extra 180 to install. I decided the geeksquad was not touching my car, I returned it and showtime was the most reputable shop w/ the best price.
They just installed the new viper 5901 in my TL for almost the same price bestbuy was charging for the 5701! I didnt give up a key either.
I dont like advertising for anyone, but the did a perfect job and Chicago TLers need to know about this place
I got a viper 5701 for xmas and bestbuy wanted an extra 180 to install. I decided the geeksquad was not touching my car, I returned it and showtime was the most reputable shop w/ the best price.
They just installed the new viper 5901 in my TL for almost the same price bestbuy was charging for the 5701! I didnt give up a key either.
I dont like advertising for anyone, but the did a perfect job and Chicago TLers need to know about this place
#9
Safety Car
iTrader: (1)
Showtime Audio in Chicago, its on North Ave in Lincoln Park.They are midwests version of the WCC shop. From ford tempos to Lambos they do it all
I got a viper 5701 for xmas and bestbuy wanted an extra 180 to install. I decided the geeksquad was not touching my car, I returned it and showtime was the most reputable shop w/ the best price.
They just installed the new viper 5901 in my TL for almost the same price bestbuy was charging for the 5701! I didnt give up a key either.
I dont like advertising for anyone, but the did a perfect job and Chicago TLers need to know about this place
I got a viper 5701 for xmas and bestbuy wanted an extra 180 to install. I decided the geeksquad was not touching my car, I returned it and showtime was the most reputable shop w/ the best price.
They just installed the new viper 5901 in my TL for almost the same price bestbuy was charging for the 5701! I didnt give up a key either.
I dont like advertising for anyone, but the did a perfect job and Chicago TLers need to know about this place
#10
Burning Brakes
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Have any of you guys seen the Audiovox remote starter that comes with a phone number, and with that number you can start your car with it?
I really want to get that but I cant find it anywhere... Any help would be greatly appreciated..
I really want to get that but I cant find it anywhere... Any help would be greatly appreciated..
#11
Does that kill the auto start if it reaches a certain RPM or is it to indicate your remote the engine is started?
As you know, I am clueless to these things
#12
Safety Car
iTrader: (1)
The tach wire monitors the RPMS of the engine such that when the engine reaches a pre-programmed rpm, it'll stop cranking.
Many shops will use the "quicker and dirtier" method of voltage sensing to achieve this same goal... when the vehicle starts, the battery voltage is sucked down trying to rotate the engine .. the r/s brain monitors this voltage drop and when it is restored to normal operating voltage (i.e. when the engine is completely started) it'll stop cranking. This is less reliable in colder weather, and in my experience without a brand new battery, it's just a sketchy, bad way to start the engine and often tends to over crank. Newer voltage sensing systems promise to make this a non-issue, but I doubt it until I see it.
Many shops will use the "quicker and dirtier" method of voltage sensing to achieve this same goal... when the vehicle starts, the battery voltage is sucked down trying to rotate the engine .. the r/s brain monitors this voltage drop and when it is restored to normal operating voltage (i.e. when the engine is completely started) it'll stop cranking. This is less reliable in colder weather, and in my experience without a brand new battery, it's just a sketchy, bad way to start the engine and often tends to over crank. Newer voltage sensing systems promise to make this a non-issue, but I doubt it until I see it.
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