Would like to install remote start to warm up my car beforehand. Ive read that you would need to use the key to open the locks when remote started (the remote is inoperable at that time).

My dad (previous owner) Sort of jammed the key slot for the physical key and you cant open it now. Remote only.
Are there systems out there which allow the use of the remote all the time? i was thinking this would only affect people who installed the started in the OEM keyfob, and not those with an extra fob for remote start.

Alternatively, im thinking i could just open the car up first, then remote start. Unless the button sequence for remote start would require door to be locked first.

Advice? havent seen any threads for people in my situation.

 

Short answer. You don't need metal key. Or at least you shouldn't.




If you wonder how remote starter works exactly then:

I installed the remote starter myself, and as far as I remember configuration options there's couple ways for it to work:
- remote start with OEM remote, some button combination (ex. 3x lock) to remotely start the engine, cheaper but low range (as OEM remote doesn't have big range to begin with)
- use additional remote start's remote (later abbreviated as RSR). There's many options here.

Second option then is divided into:
- remotes that come with one button only, and they usually work like 1 short press to lock or unlock, and hold to remote start
- remotes with separate buttons for each function
- fancy remotes with displays, inside temp, etc.
- integration with the cellular system, remote start from any place on earth with internet connection (using app on the phone) (I think it requires you to pay for additional line, as car must have internet connection, and some monthly/yearly service fee)

Second option also divides into additional category:
- one way remotes - you can do all the functions just like OEM remote and that's it
- two way / both way remotes - just like before, but remote will let you know the status/if car received the message

I have remote with 4 buttons, two way.
- if I unlock/lock/trunk the car, remote flashes the orange light, and immediately after flashes green and beeps if car received the command. (it works like remote->car with unlock signal, and then car->remote that signal received and processed). If I'm out of range, remote will just flash orange light, but won't confirm that car performed the function.
- if I remote start, orange flash, then green flash and beep if car confirmed, and then couple green flashes and beeps if engine actually started. If some problem, like door open, it flashes and beeps that there's been an error, etc. So if I don't see the car, but remote beeped couple times, I'm sure that car is running.
- range is nice. I didn't tested it but website claims up to ~0.5 miles of range.

SRS remote can perform all functions of the OEM remote except the hold unlock to open windows.

My system overrides factory alarm. If alarm turned off, you completely lose alarm. If alarm turned on, you must use RSR to arm/disarm the alarm. I don't remember now as it's been a while, but I think there was an option to allow to disarm/arm with factory remote, but I believe I turned it off.
There are many options like if you want horn to beep if you lock/unlock, how many flashes with marker lights, max time to have engine running, etc.

If you're interested then take a look at:
https://acurazine.com/forums/3g-tl-a...5at-tl-984720/
Although I can't guarantee that website and parts that I used are still available.

Otherwise, best to speak with whatever shop offers installation. They should know the system they're using the best. Or at least I would hope so.

 

A big thanks to all that information. Encouraging info. How does your car work?

you use the remote to unlock after it’s been started?
then what happens to the key? Do you need to insert it to drive off? How does that work? What about climate control? Does it just default to the setting you had the last time, including temperature and heated seats?

 

Aftermarket remote start system works by fooling car into thinking that there's physical key in the ignition. Car doesn't know the difference between starting with a key and starting with a remote.
There's a safety feature to not drive off without key - if you step on the brake pedal remote starter will get disabled/turned off.

So if remote started, and no key in the ignition, then car shuts off as soon as you press on the brake pedal. But if key is in, "on" position, then car won't shut off.

So basically hold button to remote start, get close to the car, hit unlock button, get inside, put key in and turn two clicks / "on" position, drive like you normally would.

Since car is "fooled" into thinking that it has been started with the key, all settings like climate control, heated seats, radio, etc. are just how you left them.
There's an option in the remote starter to add extra functions, like for example turn on heat for rear window if temp below certain value, but I never installed it. (requires extra wiring and temp sensor)

 

Peter,
Im wondering if you can confirm Description: FT-CMX-LC CMX Universal Remote Starter (module & low current harness only) One Brain to Rule Them All. The “X” in CMX represents the universal applications for which this system can be used: security, remote start, or combo Smarter, Stronger, Faster Upgraded 32-bit ARM processor (CM-7 is 8-bit) and flash storage (256kb) for more advanced programmability, event tracking, and speed Choose Your Upgrades. The CMX supports all Firstech accessories for universal applications, such as ALARMIT for security and FTI T-Harnesses for remote start

Now all I would need is a USB flasher? and you would recommend a wiring harness for easier installation?

Hope its not a big PITA to link a remote if my OEM fob isnt good enough range. Right now from work its right outside my door, and from hope its on my driveway, so range isnt an issue.

 

Actually,
Whats really needed?
1) Brain. This contains data immobilizer is the main component which simulates a key start.
2) wire harness. Is this just there for ease of use? As in connect the wire connectors instead of splicing?
3) USB flash link module. To update/change settings. Required.

Remotes and other goodies are optional?

 

It's the "brain" just make sure it will work with your car.

You need some wiring harness as I believe "brain" doesn't come with anything. Universal will probably work with all cars but you will need to splice all the wires.
If there's premade harness for the car and starter then using that is much simpler and cleaner install. If you want to make your own connections, I would only trust soldered wires.
Also, makes it easier to come back to stock.

If "brain" supports the remote starting from factory remote, then those 3 things should be enough.

 

Peter,
Did your brain come with a "Blade AL"? You used FT-DC3-LC for the brain, and a harness.
I got the FT-CMX-LC and plan to use the ADS-THR-HA2 harness like you did.
However, it looks like i will also need ot get the Blade AL separate?

Any of the listed ones show "BLADE AL Required, sold seperately".
The brain was $100, harness $70, Blade is like $100.
This is in CAD, so not sur eif im overpaying. THe module you used is about $150, sp it would make sense to go with your brain if i still need to get the Blade AL.

 

I'm not sure what Blade AL is. Appears to be some additional immobilizer bypass?

https://images.idatalink.com/corpora...N_20171107.pdf

My module didn't come with anything like that, as my brain is capable by overriding the immobilizer by itself.

 

I went to a licensed dealer; and that Blade AL is an immobilizer i would have to get seperate. I will get the DC3 brain you got as it has the bypass installed in it.

So how hard was the install? Not including removing panels. Just the wiring bit. Unplug connectors from car, plug them into the harness, then plug harness to the brain basically?
Was it just 1-2 wires which were not plug and play (and so needed wire twisting/soldering?) or were there many more?

 

Look through my thread. Pretty easy overall. In #4 post I wrote how to connect wire for the horn, or the factory alarm would never work.
One more change is that it seems they moved away from using internet explorer based flashing, and are providing some app for that. But I suspect it will look very close to steps I went through.