Rear camera installed... (lotsa pics) 3G Garage #I-154

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Old 05-19-2006, 02:43 PM
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Originally Posted by 037
I'll be in Maryland possibly next weekend, Baltimore area, would love to check out your backup camera in person.
sure... but I live in Germantown (not very close to Baltimore).

Kenny
Old 05-19-2006, 05:40 PM
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Hey guys, is there a place to tap the backup lights other than the trunk? i ask because i need to hook up the 12v backup switch from the convertor box, but i didn't do it in the trunk like most of you ,it's up front...

thanks for any help
Old 05-19-2006, 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by zeezz
Hey guys, is there a place to tap the backup lights other than the trunk? i ask because i need to hook up the 12v backup switch from the convertor box, but i didn't do it in the trunk like most of you ,it's up front...

thanks for any help
Where is the camera power coming from?

I would run a wire from the convertor in the front to the rear....connect to the camera power...tap into the backup lights.
Old 05-19-2006, 09:22 PM
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Originally Posted by palmultiacura
Where is the camera power coming from?

I would run a wire from the convertor in the front to the rear....connect to the camera power...tap into the backup lights.
yup, probably gonna do that .. thanks anyhow
Old 05-20-2006, 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Kennedy
I count grounds too...

- switch power: This thing takes very little amperage to operate (about that of a radar detector, which can run on batteries). I plan to splice directly into pin 2 of the NAV units 8 pin connector (switch acc power-red wire yellow stripe).
So if I want to get power to the switch box all I need to do is tap into pin 2 of the NAV unit's 8 pin connector, and the color of this wire is red with yellow stripe? If I do this then I won't need to go all the way to the front to get power?
Old 05-21-2006, 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by chavez
So if I want to get power to the switch box all I need to do is tap into pin 2 of the NAV unit's 8 pin connector, and the color of this wire is red with yellow stripe? If I do this then I won't need to go all the way to the front to get power?
I spliced into the nav unit power. Don't remember the pin number but the colors sound about right. I measured the voltages on all pins and found the right one with key on (~13 volts) and off (0 volts) to be sure. I connected the ground wire to the bolt with all the other ground wires.

Scott
Old 05-21-2006, 07:11 PM
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I just completed the install using Doms RGB box with wiring harness and the camera bought form Wendy. When I powered it up my nav screen is dark and has static. When I go to an info page, the video floats up. The back up video is fine. At first thought I was thinking maybe I have a bad ground, but they are all grounded to were the factory grounded everything. I taped into the second wire of the eight pin harness for my main power. That wire is yellow with a red stripe, and it does give me actually about 14 volts.

Has anyone seen this problem, or have an idea for me to try.

Thanks
Old 05-26-2006, 11:58 AM
  #168  
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You typically see that problem when there is no or low voltage on the 12v power connection for the Dom's unit. Check that and check the grounds for everything.

D.


Originally Posted by jet flyer
I just completed the install using Doms RGB box with wiring harness and the camera bought form Wendy. When I powered it up my nav screen is dark and has static. When I go to an info page, the video floats up. The back up video is fine. At first thought I was thinking maybe I have a bad ground, but they are all grounded to were the factory grounded everything. I taped into the second wire of the eight pin harness for my main power. That wire is yellow with a red stripe, and it does give me actually about 14 volts.

Has anyone seen this problem, or have an idea for me to try.

Thanks
Old 05-26-2006, 12:02 PM
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Best bet is to run a wire to the fuse box for all of this. If you tap into the Navi for power it will void any warranty you have on your Navi should you have a problem with it. Since the Navi is one of the most expensive parts on the TL I'd spend the extra 10 mins and run a wire up. As a rule on factory components.....if you cut any wires or add additional loads to a circuit, the dealer has the right to deny warranty service on those systems.

D.

Originally Posted by 05_Acura_TL
I spliced into the nav unit power. Don't remember the pin number but the colors sound about right. I measured the voltages on all pins and found the right one with key on (~13 volts) and off (0 volts) to be sure. I connected the ground wire to the bolt with all the other ground wires.

Scott
Old 05-29-2006, 09:10 AM
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That is good info to know. Dom thought it was a bad RGB box and sent me out another. That did not fix the problem. I should get a new wiring harness tomorrow and hopfully that will fix the problem. If it doesn't, I will have to run a new wire from the front, but I waited this long for the wiring harness I might as well see if that fixes it. By the way I did restrip every wire and regrounded it with no luck.

Hope the wireing harness fixes it, if not I will try your advice.

Thanks
Old 05-29-2006, 10:09 AM
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Question: Majority of the work is done at the trunk area (no problem there), how much work is there inside the car (front console through back seat ?) If possible I am trying to avoid opening my navi console and taking off my back seat.
Old 05-29-2006, 10:15 AM
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Nevermind, I found the answer at the DOM GB thread
Originally Posted by waacow
Question: Majority of the work is done at the trunk area (no problem there), how much work is there inside the car (front console through back seat ?) If possible I am trying to avoid opening my navi console and taking off my back seat.
Old 05-29-2006, 09:22 PM
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I finished my install today. For the camera power I slit the jacket on the power cable near the mini-DIN camera connector, extacted rhe red wire and soldered a short wire to it, rhus making a tap. Then I unsoldered the fuse on the end of the power cable, and soldered it to the end of the short wire. So now fuse coming out as a tap near the camera connector. I connected it to the green wire of the right back up light, run the power cable together with video cable to the converter, and connected the red power wire to the blue (back up camera trigger) wire on the converter. I didn't connect the black ground cable, because it turned out that camera works fine with the ground from the video cable.
Old 05-30-2006, 06:26 AM
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Old 06-05-2006, 12:37 AM
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Originally Posted by gt1
I finished my install today. For the camera power I slit the jacket on the power cable near the mini-DIN camera connector, extacted rhe red wire and soldered a short wire to it, rhus making a tap. Then I unsoldered the fuse on the end of the power cable, and soldered it to the end of the short wire. So now fuse coming out as a tap near the camera connector. I connected it to the green wire of the right back up light, run the power cable together with video cable to the converter, and connected the red power wire to the blue (back up camera trigger) wire on the converter. I didn't connect the black ground cable, because it turned out that camera works fine with the ground from the video cable.
have no clue what you just said above.
Old 06-05-2006, 12:52 AM
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Old 06-06-2006, 05:45 AM
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Your gonna wanna ground that with the ground wire to avoid damage to the video output circuit. If you were to jump start your car for instance and the system were to take a power spike that output isn't designed to take the full load through it. They put the other ground on there to make sure the hardware is covered under any condition. It's not worth the money you spent on the camera for the 5 mins it will take to ground that. It's also pretty easy for a tech to tell if it wasn't grounded right if you try to warranty the camera.

Thanks
D.



Originally Posted by gt1
I finished my install today. For the camera power I slit the jacket on the power cable near the mini-DIN camera connector, extacted rhe red wire and soldered a short wire to it, rhus making a tap. Then I unsoldered the fuse on the end of the power cable, and soldered it to the end of the short wire. So now fuse coming out as a tap near the camera connector. I connected it to the green wire of the right back up light, run the power cable together with video cable to the converter, and connected the red power wire to the blue (back up camera trigger) wire on the converter. I didn't connect the black ground cable, because it turned out that camera works fine with the ground from the video cable.
Old 06-06-2006, 07:20 AM
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Originally Posted by I-MOD
Best bet is to run a wire to the fuse box for all of this. If you tap into the Navi for power it will void any warranty you have on your Navi should you have a problem with it. Since the Navi is one of the most expensive parts on the TL I'd spend the extra 10 mins and run a wire up. As a rule on factory components.....if you cut any wires or add additional loads to a circuit, the dealer has the right to deny warranty service on those systems.

D.
Albeit this is a true statement, the fact you plugged anything "inline" (i.e Dom's unit) will also most certainly void your warranty if the dealer wants to be that level of a prick.

Tapping the power wire from the NAVI power places no additional load on the NAVI unit itself, it places a very small additional load on the power circuit that feeds it. Dom's unit also draws the current less than a 9 V battery, so the existing wiring is more than adequete. I properl connection connection could easily be removed and electrical tape covering the offending tap point shoudl a problem ever arise as well.

By all means, if you feel the need to run the extra circuit wire, please do so... but doing so under the guise that your warranty will remain intact is foolish, and the existing wiring is more than adequete.
Old 06-08-2006, 09:01 AM
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Here's an update from my problems that I posted a couple weeks ago with the display having static on it. Dom sent out a new RGB box thinking that was bad, and it wasn't. I just got back in town and installed the new wiring harness Dom sent out to me, and that's where the problem was. I was just one of the unlucky ones to get a bad wiring harness. When I swapped out the old one, wired up the new one and it now works perfectly without any static on the display.
Old 06-08-2006, 02:17 PM
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glad to hear that!
Old 06-08-2006, 06:50 PM
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24R camera

I have the 24R camera installed. I want to know if those who have the 24R camera can see the top edge of their bumper. I can't see mine and I'm unale to angle it down to see the edge of the bumper.

I'd like to see the bumper to indicate how far my bumper is from anything that I'm backing toward.
Old 06-13-2006, 06:28 AM
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It's pretty easy for the dealer to remove your tape and prove the wires have been modified etc. They can use this proof to void warrantry on that system. The Dom's unit can be unplugged and they will never know it was there if you had a problem.
With no proof that anything was touched they will have to warranty the system. I worked as a Honda service tech for 6 years, trust me if they are looking at replacing a system that costs a few grand...they are goign to look closely at everything. In a lot of cases it not a matter of the dealer being a prick, Acura/Honda send reps out on a lot of warranty repairs to verify why something failed. They will also look at the car closely. I really don't care how people get power to the system, that part is your decision. You can view my advice as "foolish" all you want but at the end of the day if my navi or one that I worked on has a problem I'll be getting it replaced under warranty and you'll be shelling out a few grand when they hand you back your electrical tape.

D.


Originally Posted by Kennedy
Albeit this is a true statement, the fact you plugged anything "inline" (i.e Dom's unit) will also most certainly void your warranty if the dealer wants to be that level of a prick.

Tapping the power wire from the NAVI power places no additional load on the NAVI unit itself, it places a very small additional load on the power circuit that feeds it. Dom's unit also draws the current less than a 9 V battery, so the existing wiring is more than adequete. I properl connection connection could easily be removed and electrical tape covering the offending tap point shoudl a problem ever arise as well.

By all means, if you feel the need to run the extra circuit wire, please do so... but doing so under the guise that your warranty will remain intact is foolish, and the existing wiring is more than adequete.
Old 08-17-2006, 02:33 PM
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Don't throw rocks at me for this, but why can't you just power the camera from the backup light circuit by tapping into one of the backup light hot wires at the trunk? I think I've seen this done on other cars.

Would beat going all the way to the fusebox in the front, and the camera would get power only when the car is in reverse.

Also, all the DOM's links are now dead, and I'm a johnny-come-lately to this thread. Any newer links?
Old 08-17-2006, 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike_TX
Don't throw rocks at me for this, but why can't you just power the camera from the backup light circuit by tapping into one of the backup light hot wires at the trunk? I think I've seen this done on other cars.
That's what I did.
Old 08-17-2006, 03:23 PM
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Originally Posted by ITL
That's what I did.

Gotcha. I kept seeing all the posts about pulling the back seat and tapping into the Nav harness, etc., and just wondered why anyone would go to all that trouble.
Old 08-17-2006, 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike_TX
Gotcha. I kept seeing all the posts about pulling the back seat and tapping into the Nav harness, etc., and just wondered why anyone would go to all that trouble.
They do that to power the tvandnav2go box, not the camera.
Old 08-17-2006, 03:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Kennedy
They do that to power the tvandnav2go box, not the camera.
Ahhhhh ... I guess I thought it was just pretty much a relay that kicked in the camera circuit, and didn't need external power. I obviously missed that point. Thanks.
.
.
Old 08-17-2006, 05:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike_TX
Ahhhhh ... I guess I thought it was just pretty much a relay that kicked in the camera circuit, and didn't need external power. I obviously missed that point. Thanks.
.
.
The nav2go box goes in between the navi and the front screen and needs power at all times in order to display the navi screen. When the camera and the trigger wire on the dom box get power from the reverse lights it switches the input from the navi to the camera.
Old 08-17-2006, 07:28 PM
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Originally Posted by brianp6621
The nav2go box goes in between the navi and the front screen and needs power at all times in order to display the navi screen. When the camera and the trigger wire on the dom box get power from the reverse lights it switches the input from the navi to the camera.
Interesting. I would have thought the signal was just fed on through the nav2go box, then a relay would trigger the reverse cam and that signal would replace the existing Nav signal until the relay was disabled by moving the car back out of reverse.

Seems odd to have to power the nav2go when it's just basically a switch. But maybe that's why I'm not an electrical engineer.
Old 08-18-2006, 08:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Mike_TX
Seems odd to have to power the nav2go when it's just basically a switch. But maybe that's why I'm not an electrical engineer.
It's more of a relay than a switch...and relays have to be powered
Old 12-05-2006, 07:27 PM
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Nice job...

Great work on backup cAmera.. Where can i buy? Also, Is there a way to watch DVD's on my navi?, Also....Cross drilled high performance rotors and pads?....Too much Warping of the OEM rotors........If so please fill me in

email me at Juiceguy77@aol.com



Thanks,

Taso, N.Y.C.

05' Tl 6MT Supercharged, Tein SS, EDFC, Michellin Pilot PS2, Volk Racing GT7 wheels, Comptek everything!..... my first night on... Will setup profile and include pictures soon.
Old 01-28-2007, 12:35 AM
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kennyc: u live in maryland if u do let me know how much will u install that for me?
Old 01-28-2007, 04:56 AM
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If you're handy with electronics, its not too hard for a Do-It-Yourself project.

Check out this thread for details: DIY: Backup Camera with Dom's TVandNav2Go PNP Install
Old 01-28-2007, 08:18 AM
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Tht is really a great job..i wish i could pay u to do mine
Old 02-01-2007, 03:31 PM
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There really isn't any other power source commign into the trukn besides the navi that we can draw current from? Like others I do not want to take apart my whole car to run one wire for this project. Not to mention, I feel that when you put it back together, it never is the same as far as rattles and stuff. Could be all in my head.
Old 02-01-2007, 06:27 PM
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I spliced into the dvd rom drive power. I have not had a problem with it.
Old 07-24-2007, 02:37 AM
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I just ordered a Kenwood CCD-900 back up camera, and tht is the only thing i wanted to install. on the instuctions everything looks straight forward, except that it asks to hook up a video cable from the kenwood module to the back of the Nav screen. i have an 06 Tl and i dont have any video jacks, does the back of the nav screen have that or do i have to install something to get a aux video jack?
Old 06-27-2008, 11:17 PM
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Hi,

I got Wendys backup camera installed tonight...But the word "Reserved" on the curb of my parking spot is backwards...I notice when it first comes on it is correct for like a 1/2 second and then it reverses the image.

Anyone else seen this? Is there a fix?

Thanks!
Old 06-28-2008, 11:21 AM
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Originally Posted by RedAggie03
Hi,

I got Wendys backup camera installed tonight...But the word "Reserved" on the curb of my parking spot is backwards...I notice when it first comes on it is correct for like a 1/2 second and then it reverses the image.

Anyone else seen this? Is there a fix?

Thanks!
I don't think there's a "fix", because Wendy's camera is a reversing camera. What you see in the picture is the same as what you see in the rear view mirrors.
Old 11-04-2008, 11:53 PM
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anyone know a good install place in NYC that can do the back up camera and maybe a remote start?


Quick Reply: Rear camera installed... (lotsa pics) 3G Garage #I-154



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